helpmaboab Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Does anyone know the service sheet for the above locomotive, the closest sheet I can find is dated 2009 and is sheet number hss 339. I am trying to find the number for a set of driving wheels and coupling rods.. Thanks Dennis Sharp PS Hornby Support were no use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Lendons of Cardiff have a more comprehensive list of service sheets. The sheets that are likely more relevant for you are 222, 223 or 336. According to them sheet 339 is for the Princess Royal rather than Princess Coronation/Duchess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helpmaboab Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 Thank you for replying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 X8943 is the pack of driving wheelsets (in black) you need, plus X8429 for the coupling rods. Although your model is not covered by a Service Sheet, these packs are shown for loco's with both lower and higher R-numbers. However, I believe both packs are difficult to come by so I am trying to establish whether there are alternatives - @ColinB may already have that information if he sees this thread. Why do you need these packs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Well the later coupling rods will work X9093 and X7570 should work for the wheels. I am assuming your wheels are black. I think the early wheels were slightly smaller but you say your loco is 2009 so there will be no issue. I am pretty sure the A1,A3/A4 conrods are the same length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 He says his loco is 2006, Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 44 minutes ago, Brew Man said: He says his loco is 2006, Colin. Oh yes, my apology, I read the first post which said 2009 but missed the title. Either way it makes no difference the conrods and wheels haven't changed much since then. The tender driven ones I think had slightly smaller wheels as I have to slightly file away a slight part around where the wheels go. I am sure there must be a difference between wheels but other than the masking of the centre section on some, I have yet to see any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helpmaboab Posted September 14 Author Share Posted September 14 Many thanks to everyone for replying. The screw had fallen out of the middle wheel , when replacing it I forgot it was a screw and tapped it with a hammer ,thus it will not go in now , or at least it will not stay in, that why I was looking for wheels (well just one) as I have obviously damaged the hole for the screw on wheel, the coupling rods are okay. I have purchased some new screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 (edited) Hi @helpmaboab The tire is metal, but the wheel is plastic. The commonly accepted practice in industry is to use a helicoil insert. That is very much overkill. Run a tap back thru the hole, making sure it is perpendicular to the wheel. Go from the back side of the wheel, as the threads there are likely not damaged and you will catch the correct orientation. Plastic will tap very easily. If you don't know the size, just measure the OD of the screw thread. Because that hole was previously tapped at that size, it will be very weak. Lightly coat your screw threads with Vaseline, as a releasing agent. Put a dab of epoxy into the hole. Run the machine screw into the part and allow to cure. Back the screw out. Voila! For the money you will spend, however, a new wheel will likely be less expensive. Bee Edited September 14 by RB51 Banned word removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 Thanks RB51! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 @What About The Bee The crank pin screws are held in a brass insert that is not open at the rear. Unlike in the days when production was at Margate, individual wheels or even individual wheelsets are no longer made available as replacements. Having said that, all crank pin inserts for the centre wheel of loco's with Walschaerts valve gear (assuming it is the centre wheel involved as this is most likely) are almost certainly the same so it would not be necessary to obtain a Coronation wheel purely for the insert if there is a cheaper suitable alternative for another loco. Unfortunately, neither are the inserts themselves made available as spares but even so, I would also expect replacement a wheel or wheels would be the cheaper option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 Thank you for the correction @Going Spare. Bad assumption on my part regarding rear access. There is a special form of tap called a 'bottoming tap', which is used to tap to very near the bottom of a blind hole. Usually the same price as a 'taper tap'. I am with you, go for the replacement wheel. If all else fails, establishing a new threaded hole is viable, albeit more expensive Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 2 hours ago, Going Spare said: @What About The Bee The crank pin screws are held in a brass insert that is not open at the rear. Unlike in the days when production was at Margate, individual wheels or even individual wheelsets are no longer made available as replacements. Having said that, all crank pin inserts for the centre wheel of loco's with Walschaerts valve gear (assuming it is the centre wheel involved as this is most likely) are almost certainly the same so it would not be necessary to obtain a Coronation wheel purely for the insert if there is a cheaper suitable alternative for another loco. Unfortunately, neither are the inserts themselves made available as spares but even so, I would also expect replacement a wheel or wheels would be the cheaper option. I was just about to say the same until I read your post. What you can do is what I do, find the cheapest set of wheels available and rob the wheel inserts from them. Hornby generally use the same size in most of their models except Tornedo. On old locos they tend to push out so I am always having to refit them and then you have sets of wheels that have or don't have speedo drives, so you have to replace the insert with the right type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threelink Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 I had a similar problem on an older model of a different loco for which I could not find a replacement wheel so I drilled out the stripped hole to accept a tight interference fit length of empty biro ink tube, cut off flush with the wheel face. The screw cut its own thread in the tube. A dab of paint rendered the tube end invisible. Might not work on this particular loco but may be worth a go if the wheel is otherwise scrap. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 20 hours ago, threelink said: I had a similar problem on an older model of a different loco for which I could not find a replacement wheel so I drilled out the stripped hole to accept a tight interference fit length of empty biro ink tube, cut off flush with the wheel face. The screw cut its own thread in the tube. A dab of paint rendered the tube end invisible. Might not work on this particular loco but may be worth a go if the wheel is otherwise scrap. It is much easier to fix it properly. Ok you might have to requarter the offending wheel. I wouldn't be surprised if the insert is already on its way out anyway, if you tapped it with a hammer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threelink Posted September 15 Share Posted September 15 @ColinBAgreed if parts are available. My repair was of a loco for which the relevant part was not available. Although not a "proper" repair the loco is still running faultlessly, years after the repair. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helpmaboab Posted September 16 Author Share Posted September 16 Again many thanks to everyone who replied with various suggestions which I will certainly try. I am sure a repair will be possible I am pleased to have had people reply with various ideas. Regards to everyone Dennis Sharp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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