Jump to content

Cleaning Brushes


Recommended Posts

I have just returned back to making airfix kits as being disabled I need somthing to ocupy my time and to keep my hands active, it has been nearly 45 years since I have attempted to make any form of modelso I have to get use to putting the fiddly bits onto the models.

I am using Humorol Enamal paint and thier dedicated brushes and I am wondering what to clean my brushes with?

I lookforward to hearing from anyone who can help.

Phil

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have on my desk a small bottle, that was used for pills, with normal enamel thinner. It lasts for years. First I clean the brush in the bottle. Then I go to the kitchen sink, take a drop of washing-up liquid on the brush, clean the brush between the fingertips and wash out the thinner and rest of paint under running water. Best brushes you get in shops with artist's supplies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a three bottle cleaning system, two with cellulose thinners and one with brush cleaner/restorer.

First swish is in cellulose #1, that gets the majority of paint off, wipe on rag, then a swish in cellulose #2, which removes dirty #1, wipe on a rag, then a swish or longer in brush cleaner, which gets any residue off or out of the bristle roots, final dry on a rag.

When #2 starts getting really dirty, it becomes #1 and a new #2 is set up.

When using Klear or similar, the brush goes into a bottle of meths first, then #2 and then the brush cleaner.

Works for me and keeps my brush bristles soft and clean.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi PhotoPhil

When cleaning brushes I've found it better not to swish in solvent but first wipe as much paint off the brush with Modelling Tissue ( Toilet roll or kitchen towel). Then dip the brush into the solvent, (White spirit or normal mineral turpintine for enamals; do not use the natural turpentine made from pine trees as this can set in your brush as a gum.) or water and/or acrilic thinners and/or ordinary meths, and wipe again on the tissue, let the tissue suck all he paint from the brush, repeat untill all or most of the colour has gone. Then wash the brush in hot water with some washing up liquid loaded on the brush, do this about two or three times and finally rinse with a strong solution of hot water and your wife's fabric softener. Finally re-point the brush and leave to dry upright NOT resting on the bristles. If you have any brushes that have gone stiff with just cleaning with solvent the hot water wash with a rinse in fabric softener usually brings the bristles back to better than new. To re-point a brush with a bent point or miss-shapened bristles try the above then set the bristles with ordinary soap and leave to dry. These were tips I learnt from being in the Printing industry. My father was a process engraver and I was in the Gravure etching and revision so we both had quite a lot of experence with brushes. All the best and hope this was useful if you take care your brushes should last a lifetime, I still use some of my father's brushes from when I was a school kid.

Remember we do this for fun.  John the pom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hi Shubi.

For all enamel paints and vanishes the initial clean should be in white spirits or turps, with a final wash in hot water and washing-up liquid. See my answer earlier on this subject. For acrylic's clean with either the brands thinners and/or water with a touch of meths in it (about 5 io 10 %) then finishing with the yaual water wash.

Hope this helps.

Remember we do this for fun                          John the Pom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...