atom3624 Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 Just had a minor disaster where my rebuilt W1 60700 I named Pegasus' valvegear self-destructed. She'd been running exceptionally well, forwards, but I needed to reverse, and hadn't noticed the valvegear had locked, then bent ... on straightening all seemed OK, but the linkage mount hole was deformed. I tried to flatten, all seemed good, but on remounting the eccentric linkage just next to the centre driver popped out ... Lendon's were the best-priced - strangely the un-rebuilt W1 valvegear is 1/3 the price of the rebuilt valvegear set - no obvious difference in content, just design. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Had some time to make progress on some of the six 3D printed locos I bought to fit on RTR hornby chassis. The ‘Big Bagnall’ has had under the boiler pipe work fitted and just needs the cab detail adding before getting a spray of primer. This Oak Hill Works (Ex Hardy’s Hobbies kit) is designed to fit the Hornby Peckett chassis but I had a spare Hornby/Electroten one available. The body needed some modification and the rear axle is 2mm too far back but near enough for me. I will fit the ladders to the tank filler after painting as otherwise it’ll be too difficult to get behind with a brush. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) Having reached the end of the road with lying on my back under the layout in order to install point motors and other accessories, I've decided from now on everything is going surface mount. I just can't do it anymore. With an arthritic back and shaky hands I find I get quite hot and bothered working with tiny screws etc. and the more hot and bothered I get the shakier my hands get. Plus, getting back up on my feet the other day I felt one of my replacement hips click, so that just about did it for me. Anyway, it's not a problem with points as they can just get disguised with buildings etc. but I have uncouplers in my goods yard which work off under-board servos pushing a bent piece of wire up and down. They work great but I had a mishap the other day which caused two of the servos to become dislodged and are now dangling in mid-air from their cables. So, I've started to design something equally effective but with a surface mount operation. Early days yet so no pictures, but hopefully I'll post some when it's finished. Phew! that was long winded 😂 Edited June 30 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 All my point motors are upstairs as is much of my bus wiring, the distribution boards at least - see second image, with the droppers being fed up from under and similar at the rails. Loco detection sensor looms are made up above stairs and the sensors pushed into holes drilled between the sleepers and the plug ends fed back to the connector modules again upstairs - example in the image. Connection from these Tx modules to the motherboard being by way of fibre-optic cable (blue connectors in the first image). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) Yep, that's the way to go, Rob. As I said most things are not a problem and can be disguised easily. I just need to sort the uncouplers out, but I have a plan in my head. Like my builder often says, there's always a way. While you're on can you think what the name for those fixing brackets is? the larger ones are used to fix pipes to a surface and comprise a simple arch that goes over the pipe with two wings with screw holes that fix to the surface. I'm looking for miniature ones just to guide point rodding but can't for the life of me think what they are called. Edited June 30 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Hi Brew Man Try: Pipe strap Pipe Anchor Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) I'll try that, Bee, thanks. EDIT: Direct hit, thanks. Now to see if I can find them in sub-miniature sizes. Edited June 30 by Brew Man 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 1 hour ago, Brew Man said: the name for those fixing brackets is? the larger ones are used to fix pipes to a surface and comprise a simple arch that goes over the pipe with two wings with screw holes that fix to the surface. I'm looking for miniature ones just to guide point rodding but can't for the life of me think what they are called Saddle clamps as opposed to P clips. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/cable-ties-fixings/cable-clips-clamps/?applied-dimensions=4294819471 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Thanks, Rob. Yes I think I've found some that will do the job. They are for 2.6mm wire. I'll be using 1mm wire so hopefully not too slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Pack the 2.6 mm pipe anchor with an extra layer of wire insulation. The color blend perfectly, making it camouflaged. The extra bit will appear as a pipe join. And the anchor will actually function as an anchor, a complete bonus! 😁 Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) Well I don't want them to be a total anchor, they are meant as guides only that will allow the wires to freely slide back and forth. Edited June 30 by Brew Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Whoops! I didn't read carefully enough Brew Man. Hard clamping the rod for the points may not be desired. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 On 05/06/2024 at 06:51, atom3624 said: When on DC, is the motor needing more power to get going? Just thinking it may be overloading the DCC chip perhaps? Al. Not really, unfortunately the chip has overheated and stopped working so I am wondering if it may be the chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 On 30/06/2024 at 12:23, Rana Temporia said: Had some time to make progress on some of the six 3D printed locos I bought to fit on RTR hornby chassis. The ‘Big Bagnall’ has had under the boiler pipe work fitted and just needs the cab detail adding before getting a spray of primer. I will fit the ladders to the tank filler after painting as otherwise it’ll be too difficult to get behind with a brush. Having just spent an hour repairing a Bachmann pannier by fixing a fallen out handrail knob and making up missing handrail on one of the door sides from Alan Gibson knobs and 51L 0.45mm wire, I can only deduce you have a lot of patience and skill to fit that lot from scratch, Kudos to you sir 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 1 hour ago, Too Tall said: Having just spent an hour repairing a Bachmann pannier by fixing a fallen out handrail knob and making up missing handrail on one of the door sides from Alan Gibson knobs and 51L 0.45mm wire, I can only deduce you have a lot of patience and skill to fit that lot from scratch, Kudos to you sir 😊 The medium handrail knobs aren’t that bad, the small ones are a pain! These printed bodies have holes/indentations ready formed so drilling accurately is easy. I use old guitar string for handrails, usually a B, one string will do several locos and if I make a mess it’s cheap enough to start again. The pipework under the boiler is made from paper clips which provide a cheap source of 0.7/8mm fairly stiff wire. The representations of the couplings for the pipework are made from 2mm styrene rod which is easy to drill with a 0.8mm bit and the wire is superglued in. A plain G guitar string makes good springy replacement pick-ups for locos. Again, one string will make quite a lot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 Just received an old Bachmann B.R. Black 6624 0-6-2 Early Logo - runs extremely well, but have cleaned up and given some fresh oil. I'm in the process of fitting crew and will paint the bulkhead / control panel - it's very well moulded, but not painted, but strangely is part of the chassis, so completely accessible when the body is removed - excellent!! The cab footplate is part of the body, so that's having crew fitted whilst the chassis is circulating forwards / backwards - 180 - forwards / backwards. Then I'll paint up the bulkhead / control panel. Looks like a fantastic locomotive. Chassis uses very little power indeed - best I've encountered - or a totally out of spec motor!! Gearing is perfect for a good locomotive as well. Photo after internal paint and (raised as floor too low) crew fitted .... Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 My rebuilt W1 valvegear turned up today. I'm my own worst enemy!! Thought I'd start it, do slowly and carefully ... 25-30 minutes later she's running around the rails!! All replaced. The 'old' coupling rods stayed put. I had her running light spaced behind my renamed 'Clan' class Hengist hauling 9 LNER carriages - then she stopped, and started going forwards / backwards ... at the same time. Not a disaster fortunately but W1 had dropped a crankpin nowhere near where I was working - serves me right. No issues. Nothing bent. All nipped up and checked. Pin replaced with one of the new ones in the 'kit'. Running very well again - lovely model. Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 8 minutes ago, atom3624 said: My rebuilt W1 valvegear turned up today. I'm my own worst enemy!! Thought I'd start it, do slowly and carefully ... 25-30 minutes later she's running around the rails!! All replaced. The 'old' coupling rods stayed put. I had her running light spaced behind my renamed 'Clan' class Hengist hauling 9 LNER carriages - then she stopped, and started going forwards / backwards ... at the same time. Not a disaster fortunately but W1 had dropped a crankpin nowhere near where I was working - serves me right. No issues. Nothing bent. All nipped up and checked. Pin replaced with one of the new ones in the 'kit'. Running very well again - lovely model. Al. Success after hard work is very sweet 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 W1 actually needed a little more work. I try to get valvegear, normally Hornby's working properly. They seems to centre it so it rotates without lateral movement - not correct - so I try rotating the spigot the crankpin screws into, slightly. That on the W1 was loose as a result, so the new valvegear wasn't locating properly. The spigot is not glued into place, and valvegear re-seated - movement is less than I'd like, but I'm leaving alone for now! It's slightly weathered, with a good amount of soot over the top, and 'lightly glossed'. Running extremely well - and whisper quiet as a Hush Hush should be!! She does have a very nice turn of speed as well! Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian-1301567 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 Hi there, I have taking off the body of the R2930 City of Lancaster OO Gauge loco but on trying to take off the body was tied up with the speedometer cable stopped me.So was wondering how take this off has there are no screw marks on top of the pin that holds the body back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 The body end usually just pulls out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian-1301567 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 15 minutes ago, 96RAF said: The body end usually just pulls out. Its sort of held back by the cable bit to the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 Be very careful with that speedo cable. You must remove this before you remove the body. 2.5mm hex driver is required and they're very small 'crankpins' those screws, so fragile as well. There are flats which permit you to align the cable onto the spigot. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 35 minutes ago, atom3624 said: Be very careful with that speedo cable. You must remove this before you remove the body. 2.5mm hex driver is required and they're very small 'crankpins' those screws, so fragile as well. There are flats which permit you to align the cable onto the spigot. Al. I am correct you talking about this? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 Yes, exactly, but ... TBH it looks like that one's on it's way out. That kink is precisely where they normally snap in 2. You can get replacements, they're not expensive. If/when that time comes, you've got a reference photo, there's a little groove in the body anyway, but always glue it well in position, and leave it for 2 days to set properly - even superglue - I've used 2-pack Araldite and various brands of superglue - they do take, but give them a chance to 'cure'. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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