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What's on your workbench?


81F

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Just received R3118 Penrice Castle from 'an auction site' and impressive as it is, it's obviously one of those 'QC Victims'.

Seller said would cover postage and refund, but I do want it - just don't like the 'brass-painted' undercab pipes falling off, part of the under-chassis moulding with a shoe with location for brake rods broken off ... it seems it may have broken off in the post - but also indicates poor design and packaging to start with.

A bit of polystyrene cement is resolving the issues, but it's not really the point - I expected better, and it's not the first 'modern' ex-GWR locomotive I've had with poor design issues.

I received a K3 from 'another manufacturer and it's perfect - packaged and design well - that's the difference.

Sort-of puts you off considering more from the 'big H' if this is how they're built / designed / packaged.

As stated, seller was obliging if I wanted to return, but it shouldn't be like that - I'm keeping anyway.

Al.

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It was new, unused, but more onus would have been on the seller.

I did mention I was offered a full refund and postage cover, but said would persevere.

I've had other new-tool ex-GWR Hornby locos and 'detail parts' look good but several have invariably been detached in transit. The final packaging design is the manufacturer's and I believe it's either the packaging design or that of the loco itself which makes these parts more 'fragile' than they should be.

As is now, it's a great-looking locomotive, and glad it was so easy to 'fix'.

Point is I've had very few of 'these things' happen with recent 'B' locomotives - a K3 recently purchased is perfect.

The final 'look' of the Castle is excellent and it's a proud-looking addition to the collection.

Al.

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Obviously I understand you bought it like that so not having a go at your good self. If things fall of in transit fine but if you pay any were from £100-£200+ for a model! Not a TOY than surely picking it up carefully might be a good idea. The only thing that fall of mine is the steps which is more to do with my glueing then the design. 

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 A couple of weeks ago I bought a very strangely repainted 28XX and a second hand replacement body. The chassis runs beutifully but it was missing a tender buffer (now replaced) the tender has a large hole cut into the coal binker floor while the body vitually fell apart at the firebox!

 

Indeed there seemed to be so little glue used on the replacement body I think I could have totally dismantled it without any damage to the parts!

 

All is now stuck together but there was some paint damage so I knocked out the cab front windows and resprayed the whole lot GWR WW2 black, All I need now is suitable numberplates for a 28xx that retained tall safety valve cover, inside steam pipes and did not receive curves to the footplate front until after WW2.

 

The plan had been to convert to an oilburner but the front end is wrong :( so it might retain it's 2812 number and my original 2812 might become 4800 and swap it's shirtbutton tender with that of my 38 but I'm not sure as I could do with another 2-8-0

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Another 'classic' was the brake rodding received in the 'new' 52xx 2-8-0 T I'd purchased a while back - NEVER fitted.

There's a couple of slots through the 'radius' where the pinion drive is and the rods seemed to fit here - all rodding was 100% flat and this one interval could never fit, causing it to derail.

Browsing through the 'internet auction site' as I often do, I encountered a set of 52xx rodding and this part was kinked to fit over the pinion moulding. I purchased and fitted last night - midnight - without problem - all wheel intervals are 100% perfect.

POSSIBLY a seller thing, but this was a sealed box, supplied by H - incorrectly.

I think the Castle is superb, but some parts are not constructed / installed as well as they could be, and also ..

The seller had removed the locomotive in the past and replaced in the incorrect spacings, inadvertantly forcing the front closure onto the smokebox door causing all of the grief / damage.

I've made it 'right' now so all is resolved. That New Castle also had no protective 'plastic cloth' - another sign I'd missed. Price was acceptable as most 'New' are all '3 figures' - this was well below in an auction.

It has been satisfying to have been able to resolve all issues.

Al.

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A Lima Class 50, Eagle in Large logo blue. Model upgraded with:

  • Headlight hole and surround added (model didn't have a headlight)
  • Head code light holes drilled and headcode box painted grey to match roof
  • Working lights fitted: independent fronts and rears. Wired it so I could switch headligths off from markers too but for now the chip doesnt have those functions...future...
  • Motor replaced
  • All wheel pick ups
  • 21-pin MTC socket added
  • EM2 speaker fitted

/media/tinymce_upload/1674984f4a465fab7fba0a16dd863fc5.jpg

  • Now to reblow the Loksound chip so that she doesn't sound like a Duchess....
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  • 2 weeks later...

Latest ‘box of railway junk’ included the Tri-ang locos as seeN, all non runners when first tested. Princess Elizabeth, now running almost silently, superb motor. Very old Jinty, exactly the same. Battlespace jinty runs well but not as well as the other 2 and Nellie has a worn out chassis with the axles loose in the frames but very good motor so stripped for parts. An enjoyable hour spent fixing them. Mostly just cleaning and lubrication but there were also several track pins inside these locos. Look forward to the next lot!/media/tinymce_upload/f799f205ff49d17aecb7be056929a076.jpg

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Hi all

A micro layout seen here literaly on the work bench 😆/media/tinymce_upload/45675c1c4f598fa48bb1f250a898b4fb.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/fa0795355ea809536d919a0df3ca1b91.jpg

Sugestions for 009 / HOe steam power would be welcome have more than enough deseasle power.

reegards John

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Hi atom3624

The big trick is finding information written in English and scenic things like buildings the train is Japanese narrow gauge but it is a fun challange

Given the very restrictive space 40cm X 50cm and it was built with no real plan it is a bit of a challenge at times.

regards John

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've a Bachmann Jubilee with a dud motor I'm going to try a transplant on - ordered a Mashima 1626 5-pole skew wound on various recommendations ... managed to remove the old worm drive as well ... in preparation.

I've a Bachmann double chimney Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0 which always looked brilliant, until I finally managed to try it - runs sort-of OK backwards, but is skipping cogs going forwards. Cannot remove the body - read about that previously so will not try - and have arranged for a full revamp by Bachmann. Not cheap but a good reference point for any future work.

Al.

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Hi all

A micro layout seen here literaly on the work bench 😆/media/tinymce_upload/45675c1c4f598fa48bb1f250a898b4fb.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/fa0795355ea809536d919a0df3ca1b91.jpg

Sugestions for 009 / HOe steam power would be welcome have more than enough deseasle power.

reegards John

The new Bachmann WD 4-6-0T is nice. I have the WHR version but they make others. Alternatively look at Lilliput HOe or ROCO HOe

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Hi 81F

Thanks for the thought

I followed your advice and had a look at the WD Baldwins while looking around the internet discovered the Bachmann quarry Hunslets not sure when they are out but liked the open cab version.

And I just happen to have some slate trucks 😆 not sure why I got those but they would work on the micro and later larger narrow gauge line.

Might just have to get both locos

regards John

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I know this isn’t my usual type of model but I couldn’t resist these two from a famous auction site. They are 3D printedfrom France, a steam tram loco and a petrol loco which would be fine for your micro layout. The printing is the best I have seen and needed very little preparation. Just spayed in undercoat at the moment. KATO chassis just clips in and plenty of room for liquid gravity so great performers!/media/tinymce_upload/9458d3ea9024a3796a1e000277490c89.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/c5bb7fc5a3a84df90c4f7baf9e1cae0d.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/fbba69ef5ee8c95229f130805c8a56f1.jpg

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This rather grotty Tri-ang Princess has just ‘donated’ chassis parts to the other two locos Which are now complete and running fantastically. I just need to add the front bogie on the 262 and tidy the lining up. Try doing that with modern locos! There is a lot to be said for common parts!

/media/tinymce_upload/20483bf059a75615283773bb080a3110.jpg

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A small sound project using a spare’s box bits  - Caledonian trainset coach and loco tender chassis (unknown, maybe N15, Duchess, etc) for its pickups and decoder socket that will be used to mount a TTS system. I will probably use the oblong speaker with its enclosure although the standard round one will fit in there.

 

Existing and donor chassis...

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Body reworked for clearance...

/media/tinymce_upload/8ff88ba8785bb1d6fff665aca4fea703.JPG

 

 

Body in situ...

/media/tinymce_upload/b6944b3105c7e396c57b5c0cebf684c2.jpg

 

 

Choice of speakers...

/media/tinymce_upload/0dc34b8eccc031ee3be743174142a1f6.jpg

 

Rob

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I watch the experts place locos on the track and it takes a couple of seconds , with me more like a couple of minutes and with lower back problems it can be difficult straightening up again. So I’ve built a single track extension behind the backscene and accessed through a tunnel enabling me to place locos on the track whilst seated.  And it’s worked a treat!

Roy

/media/tinymce_upload/e3a685136cda4270069e8b214e940da5.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/7b0fa6ce372dff418cd4966dcef19ecd.jpg

How about putting a Hornby railer/uncoupler track piece (R620) in halfway along? Dead easy to get your rolling stock onto your track then.

Cheers, Rich.

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