What's on your workbench?

[Twintop]

The Black Five with the distorted valve gear is running again, and has done about 10 circuits under test light engine.

A mixed result with Lord Rowallan. It is back together and running fine with the decoder binned and a blanking plate utilised. However, I broke the speedo cable on refitting the body so that is now araldited and is holding somehow. I also damaged the valve gear that runs up in a gap on the running plate. A tiny black plastic piece came off on one side and so that has been araldited too. It does not move so is OK. Pity, I was a bit ham fisted but of minor cosmetic consequences - it was a non runner before. Plus I identified that two tender wheels were not picking up current, so that is a bonus.

Next on the list is a Bman Royal Scot spilt chassis that never runs well, so will strip it right down and clean it thoroughly. After that is a Tri-ang 0-6-0 43775 that is just not working, a Bman Peak that needs a driveshaft coupling glueing and then re-assembling and an Bman Ivatt 2-6-2 tank with valve gear damage that I have lost a tiny part for unfortunately - it is on the layout somewhere !

I have also rewheeled 9 x 4 wheel wagons. I bought 18 wheelsets but still need some more.

[Fazy]

Currently backdating my stock to pre war LMS, from BR

British legion made from a Hornby Royal Scot and re built. Patriot. And a LFB made Jubilee from a Bachmann SFB Jubilee and a Mainline LFB Jubilee Firebox, now wearing LMS Crimson

[atom3624]

Nice job - they look good.

Al.

[Twintop]

I have sorted out the Bman split chassis Royal Scot 46162 Queens Westminster Rifles. Basically, just a thorough clean of the axles and wheels and oiling with PECO electrolube, but it now runs the best it has ever done. It has been prone to jerky running, but ran sweetly on test. So that is 3 "big" engines back in use now.

I have done some re-assembly on the Bman Peak - D193 in green - but still some way to go. I had to take it well apart to get to the driveshaft coupling that was split. I am hoping that araldite has sorted that out.

Next job on the layout is making a bridge out of 3 PECO truss girder bridge kits. The wooden "deck" is still in situ so it should not take long. The bridge accommodates a branch head shunt over the 4 main line tracks to create the scenic break.

[Twintop]

The BMan Peak is now back together and has test run OK, so the Araldite is holding at the moment.

I have also got a Tri-ang 3F 43775 0-6-0 running again. I had a short due to the + wires touching the chassis by the carbon brushes. It has Romford wheels so runs fine through the PECO pointwork. Runs very well, as I put pickups to 4 of the tender wheels when I added the Romford wheels many years ago.

I have also got two Tri-ang Britannias running again, and they are sort of OK through the pointwork, with just a little bounce now and again. Not bad enough to stop me running them, but not ideal. They have been packed away for many years but the motors run fine and the engine really flies as I disconnected the smoke generators years ago and the extra power for the motor is legendary ! One of the bodies is damaged though, a corner is off the front buffer beam, so surgery is required from a spare body to mend it. I also have Romford wheels for them, bought at great expense many years ago. Not sure if I want to risk fitting them though.

I never fitted them as although the 3F conversion was a success my Tri-ang 2-6-2 T was not as the main gear would not fit on the new axle. I opened it out a bit but then it was loose and so that got put away.

Now the motor is dead, and I cannot fathom out why but suspect it is on the armature as I can't get continuity between a couple of the segments as I can on the Britannias. I am unable to remove the motor, it looks like the driving wheels and axle will have to come out.

All in all a successful time with 7 engines back in service. Just the 2-6-2 T and a BMan Ivatt 2-6-2T tan to sort out now, but I lost a crucial piece off the valve gear. The BMan Hong Kong std 4 4-6-0 is a dead duck though as the wheels are distorted - a common fault I believe.

 

.

[atom3624]

Just ordered a replacement motor for my Bachmann 42 Warship - earlier model.

I replaced the motor on my Class 25 - very successful installation and as smooth as ever, and does seem a touch faster (after carefully running in of course to bed in the brushes!).

My R3677 Duchess of Hamilton had it's centre shaft drive gear replaced with one from an older 'donor' Duchess and with very careful attention to the quartering, it appears to be as smooth as the 1st day and pulls the 9-coach Coronation Scot train with a little effort of course - yes I know its the wrong colour scheme, just testing!

I'm in the process of fitting lights to my Bachmann Class 20, but am not going to rush this - lots of dismantling and holes required! (Stickswipe light kit off Ebay - fantastic little kits he makes.)

Al.

[atom3624]

My rake of 8 Gresley teak coaches now has the same type of close coupling connectors as found in the LMS Coronation Scot coaches - works well and looks great now.

The Railmatch Steam Blue paint is a perfect match - for the cab door on the A4 - working on that now. Looks better already.

Al.

[LMSFan72]

This has just moved off the workbench - I finally finished my New Measurement Train. I started it about 2 years ago and then it was put aside because I couldn't decide how much detail to model. However, since I now can print 3D parts, I decided to finish it off to current livery...(now just need to convert a VTEC HST to 43299 ...):

It started life as the previous generation NMT power car set. It was re-liveried to the current prototype livery. The nose mounted camera was replaced with the correct smaller version and the top light was fitted (sourced through shape-ways before I could print parts myself).

The power cars are both fitted with sound.

All the coaches, except for the last one with the grey roof, are custom made with the correct window layouts and roof layouts. Most of the add-ons were modelled and 3D printed by me. The coach with the grey roof at the end of the formation is from Hornby's current range and is largely accurate.

The production vehicle has been heavily modified to get fitted with the pantograph well which is now equipped with electronic OHLE test equipment including working blue/purple light. The coach is fitted with 18 LEDs to model:

- the OHLE test equipment light

- the 4 roof mounted spotlights

- 2 track level detector lights

- a lit interior - modelled with desk, monitors and crew

- simulated operating computer banks with flashing LEDs. The green ones are somewhat masked by the tinted glazing though

Nice to see a long project through!!

[atom3624]

Nice Flying Banana - good job.

Al.

[Yelrow]

A Heljan Beyer Garratt. Conrods have become detached, and my eyes and disabled thumbs are not up to refitting them. Any thoughts.

[atom3624]

Any members live nearby, or model railway clubs nearby with somebody you trust?

Otherwise, I'd take it to a model shop if they've anyone really handy, and ask them if they could look at it.

Al.

[Yelrow]

Atom, hi,, unfortunately, your very helpful suggestions, for which I am very grateful, won’t apply here in rural France , nearest model shop, 100 kilomètres, and speaks a funny language, I am afraid. Posting it to us, is 40 Euros, and as much to post back, without cost of repair. Only model club, makes model boats. That’s the nub of the problem. I need a Zoom hook up with someone who is able to help, Or a free weekend, in rural France, in exchange for repair, ( covid, permitting )

[96RAF]

If you have the service sheet John and/or know which bits you need (if any) then please see here...

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/model-railways/heljan-spares.html?manufacturer=205

[Yelrow]

merci beaucoup. Its fingers and eyes i need. Do you have a link for them, as well.

[96RAF]

merci beaucoup. Its fingers and eyes i need. Do you have a link for them, as well.

 

 

Je n’ai pas non plus les yeux ni les doigts Jean - desole.

[Yelrow]

Back to drawing board then. They fetch a fortune on ebay. Far more then i paid. Just dont like being beaten.

[Twintop]

I have just been through 9 Tri-ang Blue/Grey MK1s and a Tri-ang utility van. Cleaning wheels, oiling axles and changed a broken coupling. 7 of these plus the van are from the 60s when I was a child. 3 brake 2nds, 2 composites, a parcels coach and a restaurant car. Three were CKD kits that I bought in 1966 as they were far cheaper than the assembled ones. Also painted my PECO girder bridge in grey so ready for some rust to be applied.

I have also spent a good while trying to get the Tri-ang 2-6-2 T 82004 from 1969 to run. I have the motor out and noticed a loose bit of solder on the commutator, so dabbed that with solder. Thought I had a result as the motor spun quickly but after 5 seconds it smoked and glowed before the solder came adrift. I guess it is jiggered - but I can't understand why it runs so well for 5 seconds. I thought I had a spare in a Scalectrix Lister Jaguar from the 60s, but the gear is different and I have no idea how to change that over, and equally don't want to risk ruining the car.

Next task is on the layout to get the bridge into place and continue putting things back together after 4 tracking the short section.

[atom3624]

Had a strange one yesterday.

That recently-purchased R3737 BR blue 60022 Mallard is the smooth runner the seller said, except ... every so often it would simply pop itself off the track, particularly going over express points.

My other one, a R2339 LNER blue 4468 Mallard has no such problem.

Decided to stop 'thinking deep' and simply looked underneath - the brake rigging was loose and catching. Now relocated, it runs reliably as well as smoothly - and pretty quickly when required.

Al.

[atom3624]

Another locomotive repaired - yippee.

I've an older Bachmann Class 42 Warship, which has been one of my absolute favourites.

It's now got directional headcode and indicator lamps and cab lighting.

Used so much, the motor had worn out.

I requested a replacement, and was told none were available, but it would work with a Voyager Class 220 motor and to replace a Warship dogbone with a Class 24 dogbone.

Motor and dogbone arrived.

Can was identical, but the overall length was longer, hence one shorter dogbone - locomotive has had her power and speed restored, again.

This is what you call service!

Al.

[atom3624]

Familiar thread it appears - for me!!

Trying out the (heavy) rake of 9 blue Coronation Scot coaches with 6220 Coronation, it pulls them, but not very well.

Comparing it with my other retooled streamlined Coronation, Duchess of Hamilton, suspicions were confirmed - Hamilton was obviously faster.

Working through several motors I had available, I found one off Peters Spares purchased last year, never used, which performed very well, and was audibly performing better than it's present motor.

Midnight in the garage, I desoldered, then resoldered the replacement into place, and ... perfect match to Hamilton! Job done.

I don't plan on it pulling that rake too much, nor too often, to limit fatiguing 6220 too much, but I know it's capable of doing so now.

Al.

[96RAF]

Several jobs in work.

Replaced the 21-pin beta trials decoder in the Electrotrens RNFE 278 with a Sapphire decoder minus its harness. All went well except no red lights at either end. Spent a lot of time fiddling with CVs but to no avail. There is so much fine detail on this loco I am loath to pull the body off again to try a basic decoder, so it may have to stay rear lightless. A nice touch on this model is the cab numbers each side light up with the front markers and the front and rear buffer beams are fully dressed with the finest of detail parts, which are duplicated in the spares bag to allow for couplings at either/both/neither ends. I have never ever seen such tiny parts.

Hornby Class 66 (Sunderland AFC) - body off to fit a TTS decoder and an Express Models lighting kit. Accurately drilling holes for the 2mm LEDs was a steady task. I need a four pin plug and socket so that I can easily detach the body from the chassis. There is one in the spares box somewhere. All the glazing (glued in) has to come out to do the lights and a bit of chassis and cab interior chopping is needed to make space for the LEDs but no big deal. The decoder installation is a doddle. The socket is much improved over the old ones but I checked for solder bridging, etc anyhow as I had to lift it to solder on the four lighting wires. Note in the picture I have wired my lighting socket direct to the decoder socket with a jumper to the yellow feed, seems to work. There are posts already there to mount the rectangular speaker enclosure, just have to find some screws to suit. The decoder sits nicely in the front bogie well on a lump of black-tak already there holding wires in place.

Next job is to prove if you can boost the output of an HM6010 module to reliably fire a pair of solenoids, using an external capacitor - can’t see it working myself, but you have to run these things to the end one way or the other.

[The son of Triangman]

Working on a motorising kit for the Hornby level crossings, so the old fashioned style gates can be electrically controlled. More motors turned up today.

[atom3624]

Only momentarily, as she's fully functional - DC only converted.

30850 Lord Nelson is super smooth, with a lovely attention to detail - detail pack fitted of course - but is ridiculously light for what was a top express passenger locomotive until the Bulleid Pacifics appeared at the Southern Railway.

This is one of those locomotives with flywheels - which does smooth the operation, but increase the initial inertia - swings and roundabouts.

The big BUT for me is that those small flywheels at each end mean the quite capacious body is substantially occupied by it, not leaving a lot of room to put weight where it would be of major benefit - over the drivers.

There is a lot of room in the smokebox, and I've filled mine up here, but it can create an imbalance.

In the last few months, I've been increasingly partially removing some 'smokebox lead weight' and replacing it with good slithers into the curved sides, such that it cannot catch the motor and wires, but genuinely does increase weight over the drivers, where it belongs.

This should mean the locomotive will benefit from an increase in weight, and where it belongs.

Al.

[34015]

I have just been experimenting with the Hornby Maglights and have fitted them to a NSE TSOT and then to an EFE Devon General bus. I used as supplied to fit the bus but to cover the full coach length I soldered 3v lights from an LED roll.

I attach picture of one to this post and will post the other on a separate post as it doesn't seem to like two pictures on same post

[34015]

Second picture as promised this time the bus.