What's on your workbench?

[Twintop]

The Hornby wheelsets have arrived and so I fitted them to 5 Tri-ang MK1s and 5 Tri-ang good wagons. The cost is dreadful, but they are a big improvement on the plastic Tri-ang original wheels. I still like my Tri-ang mk1s.

The goods wagons are 2 x drop side open wagons, a green open wagon, a 3 container conflat and a normal conflat.

All are repainted in grey apart from the green open wagon, which I might do in bauxite. I have always wondered why Tri-ang used these colours ? The drop side ones were a sort of purple of course.

Otherwise, the araldite repair on the Bmann std 4 has not worked, despite being clamped overnight. I will give it another go and if it does not stick this time, will have to try shaving off some of the circumference and then re-glueing. I only tried it on 2 wheels.

I have also finished doing the servicing on all my coaches now. On Bmann ones I could not get the wheelsets out though - I was concerned the bogie frame would break. Hornby, Dapol, Lima and Tri-ang ones pop out with just a gentle spreading of the bogie frame.

[threelink]

@Twintop "...the araldite repair... has not worked..."

I have found that some adhesives will not adhere to some plastics. The last time, I found that scoring both surfaces and using impact adhesive worked where everything else, including superglue, had failed. The impact adhesive takes a long time to develop full strength and it is not suitable to items subject to heavy loadings, but it does work.

Good luck with the repair.

[atom3624]

I find with 2-pack Araldite, I have to hold in position some parts with 'helping hands', at least overnight, and full strength is not until perhaps 48 hours.

Mentioned some plastics don't adhere, but there's an 'all conquering' Loctite superglue model 454. I've just tried this once. It sets reasonably quickly - not too - and is supposed to effectively stick anything to anything.

Al.

[Twintop]

Thanks, I did clamp and leave overnight, but will try again and leave for 48 hours. It is an odd arrangement where there is a thin metal spoked wheel and a plastic inset of spokes and the balance weight. The plastic is swollen and so whilst when separated it lays flat normally, when inset into the metal wheel it then bulges as it is too large to fit. If the 2nd glueing does not work, then I will shave/file away around the plastic circumference.

Someone once suggested cutting the plastic spokes and I would think a saw/knife cut through several of the spokes would likely be enough of a reduction to alleviate the pressure. As they are an inset so purely cosmetic, apart from the fact that when swollen interfere with the coupling rods, then I suspect that might work.

I have nothing to lose, as the std 4 is at least 25 years old and does not run properly at the moment and I have had my monies worth out of it many times over.

[atom3624]

Well it had been 'on the workbench' for perhaps 2 months, pending each successive development.

Stickswipe / Jason creates lighting kits for many locomotives which don't have them.

I purchased a Bachmann Class 20 in 'factory weathered' BR blue earlier this year.

I've finally completed the boring, gluing and wiring ... kit works great ... but ...

That body is such a tight fit over the motor / chassis there's no real room for anything - must be fun fitting DCC Sound! (not me).

The body's perhaps 0.5mm proud of the normal position, purely through inside rooftop wiring - I fitted cab lighting as well.

Unless you know about it, you probably won't notice - I do of course, but there's no recourse - wires are superglued in so they don't snag anywhere.

Overall it was successful, but took a while.

Next is the Class 25, another Bachmann one - '8-pin' chassis. Similarly complicated installation so I'll take a while thinking about the preparation, boring and installation.

It has an unlit upper headcode which will be lit, eventually.

Al.

[96RAF]

Got a new USB-Serial cable for my ESU LokProgrammer today, and downloaded a free VW RailBus sound file from the ESU site to load onto a Loksound v4.0 decoder. All very simple to do and it sounds good. It will go in a Bachmann Class 108 2-car DMU set when I have decided which of the many diesel DMU-Railcar sound files is a reasonable match to the 108 pair. Some files are 2-engined and have good gear change sounds, so I could get away with one sound decoder and a regular one for the dummy car lights.

Excellent service from Coastal DCC at Ipswich with the cable. Ordered before 2PM yesterday and here first post today. It was also the cheapest genuine ESU cable I could find and their postage was very reasonable. A well satisfied customer.

[atom3624]

That recently mentioned A4 Golden Plover I purchased?

For an older locomotive - not very - it is in very good condition, but ...

1. The RHS 'oiler' holder on the body fell out - easily replaced as expected.
2. Removing the body ... the front body mount screw was REALLY tight. I got it loose and removed without apparent damage, then when trying to figure out how much room I had to insert some Pb sheet ... I realised the chassis was incomplete!
3. I looked at the removed body and saw part of the chassis stuck to the body!!
4. I've mentioned an all-encompassing superglue called Loctite 454 - it is!
5. I've now glued the 2 parts together - and so far its tight. This glue is amazing!

OK, you're thinking the same as me? Is it? Perhaps not, but might be Mazak rot. It might just be that the original screw was 'hiding' the broken chassis. The metal shows no signs, but I will be keeping an eye on it - I've not had any A4's with 'rot', but it doesn't mean there won't be - hopefully not.

Al.

[atom3624]

Just removed the old style High Voltage signs on the smokebox sides - they're in the wrong position - if you look very closely you might see a couple of little scratches - amazing considering I gently scraped the old signs off with small curved scissor blades!

I've replaced them with yellow and white, with black lettering new-style ones - as Union has.

Next to order the nameplate set ...

Crew already installed and I've had her running light upside down, both ways, after (quite a bit of) lubrication.

Al.

[atom3624]

Just used my superb clear gloss lacquer on Golden Plover - 4 'light passes' each side and over the top - wheels masked off.

For reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383672856495?var=652075410491

This lacquer is MILES better than any clear gloss I've had before - Johnson, Humbrol included.

Looks superb - ready to be renamed now ...

(I've straightened the front high voltage decal as well now!!)

Al.

[atom3624]

Well R2340 60031 Golden Plover became 60009 Union of South Africa.

Now R3119 6234 Duchess of Abercorn has become 6233 Duchess of Sutherland, as I remember her, at Bressingham Steam Gardens in the 70's.

Al.

[Bulleidboy]

Hi Al. Who do you use for your numbers and nameplates? I have been using Modelmaster Jackson-Evans - they are very good, but due to Covid, from order to arrival can be months. BB

[Jimbo1707820979]

Al, was that lacquer Bits4reasons E-tech ? I could not find it using your ref.

[atom3624]

Does this work:

https://www.thesafetysupplycompany.co.uk/p/9428625/motip---acrylic-lacquer-clear-varnish-gloss---500ml---sax-m04009.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbEwFSalg3PAN9bPCEZor4fwyF6TomCDR8BJMYQapPPoJl7yBE6mRWJxoC5vsQAvD_BwE

Or this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTIP-Spray-Paint-Clear-Varnish/dp/B001D7WYXA/ref=asc_df_B001D7WYXA/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309952971598&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13508242768837704460&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007100&hvtargid=pla-613786525112&psc=1

Al.

[Chrissaf]

Atom's original URL worked for me and opened the ebay page. It all depends upon how accurate one is with the copy and paste action when a URL is not made clickable.

[atom3624]

Thanks Chris.

Worked for me, but may have been an embedded reason.

It's still a lacquer, so respect is required, but lightly sprayed, with patience, its basically perfect every time!

I've a strange habit of putting enough water in the kettle for one cuppa, and balancing the can on top, letting the water boil, then shaking as required. Should make it less viscous when warmer, but I believe the 'operating window' is indicated, 15-25'C I think.

Al.

[atom3624]

6233 'lightly smoked' - view from above.

Al.

[ellocoloco]

Nearly done. Just awaiting decals and varnish.

(No. I haven't lost the buffer...yum).

[EricJ]

Limited CIE Mk1's on the market so I decided to repurpose a few spare coaches. First one painted (downer below). Need to get some appropriate decals now.

Looks nice behind the 121.

[Fazy]

I’m fed up waiting for dcc Royal Scot, so I thought of throwing together my own. Bachmann jubilee chassis, which will have Markets Royal Scot drive wheels fitted (ordered) with a good old Mainline body fitted.

[RDS]

@Fazy

Did they make a lot of changes to the Royal Scot because that one looks quite bit different to my Hornby DCC ready Royal Scot (46117) (that is now DCC fitted).

[atom3624]

All 70 Royal Scot class locomotives were originally the parallel boiler (with Fowler tender) type, as indicated in the photo.

They were built in 1927 and 1930.

They were all rebuilt, with tapered boilers, most with double chimneys, in 1935 (Fury / British Legion) with single chimney and 1943-1955 (and Stanier riveted tender) with double chimney.

Al.

[atom3624]

Just spent half of the evening with that Bachmann Class 37.

The directional lamps work perfectly.

The cab lamps don't. I tried everything reasonable I could think of to get the cab lights going. Feeding 'normal' voltage to Bachmann cab lights is not a good idea - they must pass through a resistance circuit ... and if fed directly you'll blow the led.

This is what had happened to one of the lamps - then I did the other one - ah well!!

I now have it fitted with directional, tinted cab lighting - an aftermarket purchase of straight-fit circuit boards / lamps - simply solder on the power feed - which I did, and a 2-pin connector to permit permanent connection which can be separated when the body is removed. Works fine.

Al.

[atom3624]

Lightly weathered the 37 today.

I only use 'rattle cans' but used a cardboard template - with cutouts to permit 'focus' on the grilles, etc.

Some on the roof, then removed most with Brasso - has a great effect, leaves moulded recesses darker and your call how much you remove.

Quite pleased with it.

Al.

[atom3624]

It was too clean, so weathering was necessary - looking less closely it looks superb now - photos show the limitations of using a rattle can, despite doing in 'layers', and masking off various areas.

I'll check out the glazing again, and clean off - careful use of a small, rolled up piece of Brasso held with small pliers works brilliantly, wiped off with a damp cloth afterwards.

Al.

[81F]

Two Dapol kits for the Type B petrol tanker, one just painted while the other is waiting for some filler to dry in some contraction marks before I start to build it. IU want to produce a complete rake of these so thought kit building will be the cheapest - I will probably need somewhere between 10 and 14 depending upon how many it takes to fill up my storage loops.

Sadly I will have to modify the coupling mounts as the Dapol ones will leave the couplings too high for my other stock.