What's on your workbench?

[atom3624]

Finally replaced 2 motors on a couple of Bachmann locomotives - a double chimney Flying Pig and a 3MT Prairie.

Both had either derailed or got caught and the motors over-powered - over-heated ...

Piggie sounded a little rough, but was running well yet catching, so I had to carefully remove that super-detailed body again, then decided to remove the motor, still wired, and use it to very slightly grind down the worm drive.

Not perfect, but miles better.

3MT was perfect straight away. Both fantastic models.

I've a light kit I've been waiting to fit to a Bachmann Class 25 for perhaps 3 months - never found myself 'patient and calm' enough to start working on it - that one project that must be right 1st go, but looks superb once done.

Al.

[Fazy]

Needs the doors making and the gutters but it’s getting closer

[RB51]

@Fazy

Are you able to edit the top picture to the correct orientation?

If you get stuck let us know and a Moderator will assist.

R-

[atom3624]

I've mentioned before I've no 'fixed layout' - it is large, and laid on the garage floor - perhaps 15' x 5', and I use 4th radius throughout the main runs - there's one 3rd radius half curve that's it.

I've also mentioned I like adding the detailing kits where able - some don't permit the front steps for interference even on 4th radius.

One 'borderline' locomotive is a lovely black S15 4-6-0 - front steps fitted, drains on the outside of the steps to permit 'movement'.

I can set her going and have 3 'loops' with no issue, then suddenly, she's off the rails!

Lateral movement of the drivers' axles is fine, but I added a couple of drops of oil.

I did notice the piston rods were very straight - normally a little curved to avoid 'interference' with the coupling rod hex bolts, so I pulled them very slightly out - 50 loops later still circulating nice and slowly without issue ... hopefully resolved, but these things never leave you fully alone!

Al.

[atom3624]

For those of a sensitive nature, don't read on ... !!

I've just mentioned the S15 issues. One thing I thought was possibly and simply a lack of use.

I tried again, just before finally going to bed at perhaps 01:30 last night and the S15 came off the rails again!!

Moving swiftly to replace her, my left foot caught 6x bogie TEA crude oil wagons in their siding, removing 4 of them!!

There was some carnage, but better than anticipated - 2 buffers removed, one hanging off and 6x Hunts couplings broken off!!

None anywhere else other than on the couplings and buffers, but fingers now covered with superglue, all has apparently been repaired.

Superglue sets in seconds to a few minutes, but seems to 'cure' better still if left overnight, so I'll try them out tomorrow.

Overall, I reckon I was very lucky!!

Al.

[Fazy]

Well I’ve given it a try if it’s still upside down I might need some assistance

(Moderator comment: The top image was fine and the bottom image was upside down but I have fixed it for you - RDS)

[atom3624]

Pulled out my Earl of Mount Edgcumbe and remembered it was also one of my 'ongoing projects'.

It had been purchased with a few details required.

I'd replaced the small rail at the bottom of one of the cab windows - mine was missing.

Pending was replacement of one of the brake shoes - last owner had broken off and I'd purchased some alloy replacements some time ago.

A calmer mind, a little more time, and it's now got a full set of brakes - wasn't easy but looks passable and still runs superbly.

Al.

[Twintop]

Dapol 21T hoppers. I bought a few of the unpainted ones probably over 20 years ago and painted them grey. Recently I bought some Railmatch bauxite to paint Tri-ang cattle wagons, so have changed four of the hoppers to Bauxite. Easy to do as the body comes off easily although the lugs did break on some unfortunately.

I recently got some Liquid Gravity so have started on filling the bottom of the hoppers and covering with a thin rectangular card as I always found the hoppers prone to de-railing and suspected they were too light.

I have also made loads for two of them using real coal slack as we have coal fires, well at least until coal is banned. Simple of course with a stepped pyramid of card pieces and PVA glue to hold the slack in place. I am hoping the liquid gravity does the trick as I don't want the expenses of changing the wheels. I also have later Hornby hoppers that seem to run much better and could do with the same decals they have for my Dapol ones, but unsure where/if I can get these.

Otherwise, the wobbly running with dodgy valve gear Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T and the early Hong Kong made std 4 4-6-0 are still on the bench as I have got to the stage where I dont think I will ever be able to get them sorted as I keep trying without success. I must have a determined effort to try once more.

[atom3624]

Hi TT, well done on the hoppers - I've done something similar and agree - far too light and derail.

Pity about the 2MT 2-6-2 - old-style split chassis? Mine's still a superb runner - could leave running slowly all day if I felt like (2 hours lighter power (~40-45%) is my normal maximum).

Al.

[Twintop]

Yes, both split chassis. I have two of the Ivatts 2-6-2 T and both are wobbly runners. The later 2-6-0 tender version runs fine. I have replaced the plastic axle bearings, but to of no avail and the valve gear fell apart which did not help. I think I put the wheels back without quartering so that is what I will look at next. Replacement valvegear off E-bay was a con as was poorly made and fell apart straight away, but I did manage to mend the original using the new parts. Very fiddly to do though as needed a tiny amount of araldite to secure a part whilst leaving some movement in it.

The valve gear originally fell apart as the worn axle bearings meant the wheels popped out and jammed the valve gear.

When the Ivatts came out they were superb runners as they were heavy and had pick-ups on the front pony wheels, so current collection was a lot better than Hornby products of that time. I am sure they are at least 25 years old, so they have done well. One issue though is that the front pony sits low and won't clear uncoupling ramps.

I did about 30 circuits with a trip freight of Bachmann 03/08, the two hoppers and a brake van. The circuit has a Peco large radius crossover, double slip, short radius crossover, a diamond crossing and three medium radius points and no issues, so I will carry on and do the other 5 hoppers I have. The loads look good as well.

[atom3624]

If its a split chassis, then I tried gluing together broken centres on my 'Mayflower' B1 and never got it right ... so contacted Jenni of Bachmann - fantastically helpful lady.

New parts sent out, fitted perfectly, and after some coaxing of an ancient 'collector's limited edition' B1, it runs pretty decently now.

I'd lost a contact spring, which 'pinged' somewhere only the Big Man will know ... Jenni sent a couple of them as well.

I get most / all spares directly off Bachmann themselves - very reasonable prices for new parts which will definitely fit / work well.

Quartering is automatic with those isolator wheel centres - there's no option -square section.

I'd sort them out as, as you say, they're excellent locomotives.

Agreed, the 2-6-0 tender is excellent - love mine as well.

Al.

[atom3624]

Completed the Stickswipe lights installation to my older Bachmann Class 25 (without lights ex factory).

What a kit!

Installation is complicated, kit is spot on, and all lighting works.

I added directional cab lighting which I painted darker amber to dull just enough.

Fitting the protective transparent plastic over the adhesive (underside), printed headcodes I tried out the 'Glue 'n' Glaze' to affix the plastic to the codes.

I'd had this for a couple of years without ever really using ...

It would either be a total disaster, adhesive headcode plate print running, never going clear ... or ... it would be perfect - and it is - no runs, deformation, anything - clear as the transparent plastic - perfect!

Al.

[atom3624]

Headcode photos of 'RAT #2' TOPS 25 279:

Excellent little locomotive, and 'prototypically powerful'.

Al.

[Bulleidboy]

Just moved from the workbench and placed temporarily in position - the Wills Plate Girder Bridge. The end of my layout was a "woodchipped wall" , so I have ordered a new backscene which together with some Metcalfe retaining wall to disguise the woodchip. The bridge depicts where the track now ends, with an old trac kbed shown under the bridge. Once the backscene arrives it will be stuck to a piece of 2mm card, the retaining wall and bridge will be stuck to the backscene and then some serious foliage will be placed along the wall base and hanging from the bridge - this will all be removable in one piece.

[96RAF]

Looks good Barry. Continue the overall tree to sky above the bridges to complete the effect.

A fudge I use is plastic mirror tile which gives the impression it goes back as far as you can see. The Ikea plastic mirror tiles can be cut with scissors as can their shiny backed table mats. The mirror image is slightly blurred adding to the illusion.

[Bulleidboy]

That's a good idea Rob, but I think to carry that off well, it would need the track (without buffers) run right up to the mirror, which would give the affect of the track going further. I think as I have it at the moment, the mirror would just reflect that back of the buffers.

I might leave a slot, so that I can slide different pictures/views until I find the one that really looks the part. The backscene ordered, is mainly trees with some sky.

[96RAF]

Seeing the back of my buffers would show all the bodged wiring and resistor for the red lights. Slotting pictures in is a good scheme. How about one of those digital picture frames running a series of pictures or a short movie.That could bring a town scene to life if placed in the right spot. Just the mad brain running amok.

[atom3624]

Digital video on a loop through the arch would be brilliant I reckon!

Al.

[81F]

Just servicing a red Triang Clockwork loco I bought second hand. As it came without a key I have just 3D printed one in Bronze which arrived today and to my surprise it actually worked first time (both loco and key!).

In the same package from Shapeways was some 3D printed brass buffers I have made which I hope to use to replace some broken of a Tartan Arrow CCT. Although I need to source some couplings.

I also have two short clerestory break coaches waiting for the paint to dry on some 3D printed Dean 8'6" bogies. I am now wondering if it is worth me making a 3D underframe detail component with cylindrical gas tanks rather than the originals supplied with the model.

[ColinB]

Added some seats to some old Hornby LMS clerestory coaches the short early ones. To be quite honest I forgot I had them. They are to go with my Bachmann Caledonian 812 loco, sadly no one at present makes suitable coaches, but these now look really good. I am also adding seats to the early 4 wheel short Hornby Caledonian coaches. It is amazing how much better coaches look with seats.

[Tony57]

Hi

I have just converted my Hornby Class 92 Britten to a fully working pantograph Locomotive.

I replaced the two plastic pantographs with 2 all metal ones part number X8013. For some reason only two of the pins on the base came through the roof to allow a M1105 spring washer to be fitted, this has stopped me in linking both pantographs together, I did manage to get a wire with a tag washer on it, on and under the spring washer on a pin on the number two end which allowed me to connect the pantograph to the Ringfield motor.

I also rotated the rear bogie wheels so the insulated side are on the same side as the motor.

I have tried the loco out on a rolling road by attaching a wire to the pantograph and the return rail and it works perfectly, the only down side is the directional lights don't work, but with a little more thought that issue could be resolved.

[Tony57]

Hi

Thought I would share a photo of my Toy Story 3 Loco looking like a proper locomotive.

[Potterton]

I have a 1967 Tri-ang Hornby Class 35 Hymek diesel which I've had from new which, although fine passing over a single set of points, sometimes "stalled" when negotiating a more complex junction due to the limited electrical pick-ups being at one end only. I'm sure others have done this before, I believe Hornby did so themselves with later models. I decided to add additional pick-ups at the dummy bogie by replacing the all plastic wheelsets with metal one side/plastic the other then screwing extra pick-ups to the bogie and soldering wires from them to the motor bogie through drilled holes in the part of the chassis covering the motor. The end result may not look too pretty, but I am amazed at the difference it has made. The Hymek will now crawl over all manner of point work at the slowest of speeds. Well worth the time and effort.

[96RAF]

@Tony57 - the old Class 90 service sheet (146 early and 209 later) clearly shows the basic live panto wiring routing via a slide switch on the roof, which may help. I updated mine to include the later dummy bogie pickups as shown below and to by-pass the panto switch as I would never use OH power with DCC as it is too unreliable in my view.

Currently on my bench is a hot R8247 point and accessory decoder. In fact two of them, as thinking the first one had simply failed, I foolishly swapped it out for a known good one which promptly followed suit.

A protracted trouble-shooting session with lights as a load confirmed that one port of one channel was stuck on, hence why when attached to a solenoid motor things were getting warm.

In case it was a bad motor driving the failure, I swapped out the motor for a new one (bench tested to prove it first) and the fault prevailed, so now it is down to a bit of fine soldering to swap out the most likely faulty components in the circuit - the diodes or mosfet circled below.

Fortunately I have a few dead R8247s that failed during previous update testing and as the suspect components are common within the module, I have plenty of spare parts to hand. It would be good if I can fix it and even better to know what caused the failure.

[Rana Temporia]

81F, I don’t know how much your printed key cost but sometimes the cheapest way to get them is to buy a loco with key rather than a key on its own.

I am assuming you have the 040 loco rather than one of the 060 ones? The 040 mechanism is a copy of the Jouef one which in itself is a copy of a pre-war German one. The Jouef/Playcraft and even Lima keys will fit the Tri-ang mechanism. The same keys will fit the 060 mechanism. The main problems I have found when repairing clockwork locos is the shaft the key fits on becoming rounded, and the fitting that holds the centre of the spring to the shaft failing.