walkingthedog

Forgive me for being dim, no comments please, but why do you want to reduce the length of the track section because its too short, don't you mean increase its length. .

If its suitable for DC I would have thought it would be ok for DCC. DCC DC and live steam are identical in as much as they pick up current from the track. If the road works with one it has to work with the others. If there is a problem due to a capacitor, remove it.

It would have had a pantograph when new. I guess you should be able to obtain a spare from somewhere.

Best if you use track plans to give you ideas. Sketch roughly what you want and then build the main parts, and add bits as you go along. I doubled the amount of sidings after I thought I had finished, not that you ever finish.

My 9F's manage second rad Graskie. Two Hornby one the other company.

There is nothing worse than having to lift track after a few years so that a new loco will run OK, especially if you've ballasted and landscaped.

Trouble is David somebody might start off with a couple of diesels on 1st rad and then decide to get a steam steam loco. They will be very disappointed when they find they can't run it. Best to use large rad curves if you can. 2nd rad is fine with almost all locos. It's just 1st that can be a problem. Think ahead you never know what you might purchase.

Oh well LC at least we've given him plenty of choice.

I think I gave you a bit of duff gen. If it's an old model there isn't a screw but there is another lug at the back a quarter ish of the way up the bunker. You have to push the lug in with a small screwdriver or similar and then lift the cab. Take a look at the link below. By the way this is exactly the place to ask this sort of advise. Welcome to the Forum. https://www.hornby.com/search/?t=FileLibrary|Service+Sheets&q=R351&tag=

If I remember correctly remove the screw at the back, I think it holds the coupling in place, lift the cab and the slide the body slightly forward. The front is attached by a couble of lugs that slot into holes just above the buffer beam.

I don't think I will be buying a 2-8-0T or 2-8-2T. I like heavy freight locos and allegedly WR but I have never been keen on WR tank engines.

Mmmm trainlover, same thing crossed my mind.

I'm strictly analogue Seagull, sorry.

If its the same one that I got Man U it runs like a dream.

Think I might get a couple of U.S/Canadian locos to run on my layout.

A die cast Sea Hawk and Sea Harrier, an O1, B17 (Manchester United), EE diesel 10001 and 5 cattle trucks.

Mucklestoneuk said: Thanks it seems an obvious thing now you have said it but you never see it mentioned! Mine will go near the edge of the boar in a few places but it will (eventually) have back boards there that would stop this. If you have track near an edge that won't have a back board such as at the front of the layout I suggest you fix strips of Perspex about 2 inches high along the edge. It allows you to see the track ok and keeps little fingers from touching anything. If you lay the track properly you shouldn't have any derailments. I can honestly say that apart from the occasional front bogie or wagon lifting off the track I have never had anything fall off the track.

Postman Prat said: Thanks, pal!! Just remember it was you who said we were twins!! You know I don't mean it PP.

Apparently he had the beard when he was born. To quote Les Dawson, 'he was so ugly the midwife slapped his mother'

PP knows my views on things even before I do. We must have been twins separated at birth. I was the good looking one, he had the brain.

Staples are even bigger than the plastic hand rails. They do make great lamp brackets though, not a whole staple of course, that would be silly. Hand rail wire is available for a couple of quid and you get about 10 feet of the stuff, enough to make rails for lots of locos plus those on brake vans etc. Yes, they are my spokesmen JLBA, sorry Dinkey, oh I mean Trax, they know more than me!

I hate the white plastic handrails fitted to locos. They must be a scale size of about 3 inches diameter. I always remove them and make my own from handrail wire.

I think you'll find that most if not all the modern motors are available. They are fairly standard unlike the specialist ones used in the past.

You were right first time david, he's Basil Brush.

I removed the traction tyres from one of my older Jintys and it improved the running 100%. Nasty things, tyres not Jintys. I never liked tender drive locos. Nothing looked worse than a loco moving along with the drive wheels skidding on the track. As soon as replacement loco drive models became available the tender drive versions were gone.