John Symmons

Doomed: Looking for my missing mojo. Part two. Decisions! Decisions! And some ramblings Kits in the stash. My kits are stored on five selves in some sort of logical? order as to subject, i.e., aircraft, armour, naval etc. Not always as successfully as I’d liked. Above in part one I showed a few kits in my stash that hopefully might get my mojo back and maybe give me some inspiration. So, here’s a quick tour of the rest of my 100+ kit stash. Top shelf. All WW2 aircraft are 1/72 scale with the possible exception of the LS Ki-46 III Dinah as some of their earlier kits were scaled at 1/75? Like their A6N2-N float plane Zero (Ruff). Comparing it to the 1950’s 60’s Airfix and Frog Zeros it was fractionally smaller, but then again, the Frog and Airfix models differed in sizes anyway, but as to the 1/72 the Frog models were usually slightly bigger than both Revell and Airfix by a few millimeters. The LS box is labeled as 1/72 and I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. As back in the day it was rumored that 175 was their scale. The most represented manufacture being Airfix with a smattering of the other major manufactures, and maybe a few that’re new to you like LS. From left to right; Airfixes - HP 0/400, He 111, Swordfish float plane, Do. 17Z, IGM’s Bf. 109-E 4 night-fighter, Airfix B5N2 Kate, Me. 262B night fighter, beneath the Gladiator Mk 1, Dh 82 Tiger Moth, Roden’s Lagg-3 66 and 1,5,11 series beneath the afore mentioned LS Ki-46 III; the box also containing the Airfix Ki-46 II. Next is the Smer Breguet 693 (Which I’m sure is from the old Heller molds as I’ve made this kit as a Heller offering way-back-when, and the parts and construction looks identical even down the fragility of the prop blades, canons and undercarriage, not to mention the total lack of any interior, but still makes up to a very pretty aircraft. If you ever come across the Heller Potez 63 series these are beautiful kits that assemble into very neat photogenic models, maybe a bit Me 110-ish but somehow much prettier in a French way.). Next comes the LS version of the Mitsubishi Ki. 46 III Dinah of the Hasagawa FW 190D-9 together with the Airfix Ki. 46 II version in the box, next to Hasagawa Fw. 190D-9 together with the Airfix version in the same box. Underneath is the Hasagawa Ki 43 II Oscar with the Revell Ki 43 1c in the box, and finally is the Academy A6M5c Zero, very nice box art on this one. Now, it gets interesting, starting with Dragons Ki 61 Hein (Tony) this model offering 3 different versions together with 6 decal options, next is IGM’s Do 17Z in Finish markings, and winter camouflage, then the Italeri Do 24T with four decal options, Revell’s He 177A-5 with the guided bombs, Trumpeter’s FW 200C-4 Condor. And finally, above, two very old 1960’s Airfix models, He177A-5 and the Ju 52/3M with German land or floatplane options, plus a Swiss civilian option. Would love to see Airfix re-tool the 177 as this old one suffers from limited interior and too many “play features”, this is a big aircraft being as big as the B17 Fortress. Second Shelf. 1/72 scale armour. The armour kits are all 1/72 apart from several Airfix figure sets that are 00 or 1/76 scale which for me is fine as most 1/72 scale figures come out at 25mm for a 6-foot figure, whereas 1/76 scale figures equals approximately 24mm which equates to a 5 foot eight inch figure which believe it or not is more in keeping with the time period of the 1940’s. while today a 6 feet tall guy is almost the norm back then it was the rarity. As can be seen the majority of kits are Roden and Zvezda and all are soft-skinned or artillery pieces. I must admit to liking the Roden range for their diversity and superb box art. They might be a bit short-run-ish, and in cases way over engineered (see the basic Opel Blitz truck.) with very small fragile parts, instructions that could be improved and quite “flashy” molding, but they usually give plenty of options. Possibly my favorite was Opel Blitz command bus, the interior even had a map table and table lamp also a type-writer, the photo-etch roof rack was a bit of a pain, bit when finished with some roof-rack loads it make up to a very nice unusual model, full of tons of diorama potential. The Zvezda models are all from their push fit “Art of Tactic” game series, but don’t dismiss them as not real models. Their Pak 40, Pak 38 88mm, are highly detailed and come with detailed action crew, and a base to mount the model onto, like the old Matchbox kits. Two of my other favorites being the motor-bike and side-car, the Russian 40mm AA gun and the German Luftwaffe ground crew, I actually build two of them. OK back to the stash, again from left to right, Hasagawa Morser Karl 600 mm Morser on rail carriage in a huge mini-box??, Trumpeter, Sd.kfz.9/1 Framo recovery truck with 18-ton crane. (Box lists 325 parts.) I’ve built both the Revell and Trumpeter versions of the normal Framo and they are huge even in 1/72 scale, to get a true appreciation of their size try putting a 1/72 figure next to them, the front wheels are almost the same size as a figure. Above is another Hasagawa mini-box of the Toyota GB aircraft starter-truck, lots of diorama potential with the Ki 43. Next are some Zvezda “Art of Tactic” sets, German elite troops 1941 / 43, German Flak-38 20mm AA gun with crew, (ideal for mounting onto an Opel Blitz truck) German R12 BMW motor-cycle and side-car with crew, (again endless diorama potential) British Bofors 40mm Mk-1/2 AA gun and crew, next is a set of WW1 German infantry (1914 / 18) with machine gun and crew. Another thing I like with these Zvezda kits is that they are not molded in that horrible vinyl rubbery plastic that you can’t glue or paint, Zvezda have used a semi flexible hard styrene plastic that can accept paint and glue. This WW1 set has 41 figures with over 127 parts. Next is the Revell grossly over engineered 8.8 cm Flak 36 AA gun with Sd.Ah 52 & Sd.Ah 202 which I take it are the aiming and fire controls and or the transport carriages and at 200 parts, this for a gun that can sit on a 65mm square plus added room for the parked transport carriages, and fire control module, typically no crew supplied, with 200 parts some minute, makes this a scary model to assemble. Personally, for my money the Hasagawa mini-box version take a lot of beating if you can find one. This Revell over engineered version together with the ??horrible?? Airfix version are the least desirable, I still prefer the Zvezda version to either of them. Just add a few ammo boxes and shells borrowed from the Hasagawa version, and you have a nice little vignette. I doubt I’ll ever make this Revell version. Next is some odd-ball kits from my favorite odd-ball manufacturer; Roden. First is maybe not that odd-ball, the German PAK-40 anti-tank gun, brought about +/-15 years ago and still untouched. The there’s the odd-ball WW1 vignette type of kit of the FWD model B 3-ton ammo carrying lorry towing an 8-inch Mk VI howitzer and limber. I’ve made the stand-alone version of this lorry or truck, and what a beautiful little model the only real problem was the side decals needed to be cut to fit over the truck body ribbing. One thing Roden fall down on, like many other manufactures I could mention, some even not including pilots in the aircraft models, is not including any crew, not even a driver, and if a model really needed some crew, it’s this one. Next is another odd-ball model of which Roden make issued two versions, the Rolls Royce armoured car, this kit is of the 1918 > 1941 middle east version with the wider sand tyres. Next is more Roden. The first box is for the Opel Blitz but this is the Daimler version with the wooden cab together with the Academy version, which allows either the Opel (metal cab) or Daimler (wooden cab) versions to be built with the high sided wooden rear with no covering. Finally, there’s the standard Opel truck with grossly over-engineered running gear, and engine, (maybe Roden were designing for a 1/35 scale as then it might make more sense, but for 1/72 it’s just plain madness as it’ll not be seen, as working wheels and steering is just too fragile in this scale. The model comes in two versions with the normal wooden slatted high sides or as a strake sided truck with or without a canopy, and six paint options, also in the box is a much-simplified version of the Opel Blitz as a metal sided ambulance from Italeri, ex ESCI, with 4 paint options. The final box says Vomag 7 or 600 truck with the 88mm Flak AA canon, but in the box is the Sd.Kfz. 4/1 8cm Panzerwerfer, basically an armoured Opel Maultier with a 24 rocket launcher mounted on the rear. If the tracked rear looks familiar, it is, as the Maultier used the light tracks from British equipment left behind at Dunkirk. This is another over-engineered model with the engine and running gear taken from a previous model and featuring a lot of interior detail that’ll never be seen. Third shelf Ships and 1/72? figure sets. This shelf Airfix makes a return in the 1/76 or 00 scale figures together with an assortment of Revell 1/72 figures and some 600th scale ships and a single 1/72 Revell S Boat. Again, from bottom left to upper right. Starting with three Revell figure sets, German mechanized infantry 1944, German horse drawn artillery early WW2, German paratroopers 1941-ish, no date given on the box. Next comes two oddities from Hat, of two horse drawn wagons, German WW2 field wagon with two crew, then a French field wagon with one Napoleonic rider. Each of these boxes came with three models in the box and I’ve made one of each of the wagons. These wagons wouldn’t look out of place in virtually any setting from 1900 to 1940 just use appropriate riders or drivers, after all horse drawn wagons have hardly changed since Roman times. On the top are three Airfix sets, two sets of WW2 RAF personnel, and the WW1 Royal horse artillery. Next are WW1 British infantry and WW1 German infantry. Then there’s Italeri’s Battlefield buildings set, very useful for dioramas, good to see this is molded in normal styrene plastic. As an aside do not use Tamiya’s rattle can primer on the vinyl rubbery plastic so beloved by Revell, Airfix, Italeri and others as it might look like it’s sticking but it won’t and as soon as you touch it bits will flake off making a mess that’s difficult to clean up, preferably use the cheap home use rattle cans from your local hardware, it’s not perfect but it’s far better that he Tamiya primer. On the bottom is the 1/350 scale Trumpeter Prinz Eugen with an S-Boat plus added photo etch and brass barrels; definitely not a week-end build. Going up one there is the 1/72 Revell S-100 boat with the Flak 38, with the Revell naval figure set, some of which are some-what over scale at 27mm plus. I’ve made the 1/72 Airfix E(?)-Boat and really enjoyed it. The fit, apart from the hull, and the hull / deck fitting which leaves a bit to be desired, generally being excellent Next comes some Airfix 1/600 scale ships, still the best scale for ships especially if you’re compromised for space. Starting with the re-release vintage classic HMS Ark Royal, (Built her when she first came out in 1966.) then there’s the white boxed Prinz Eugen, (Always loved the lines of this ship and aways thought it was sacrilege what the Americans did to her, just think if she was saved as a museum ship? She was often referred as the little sister to the Bismarck. A few years ago, the log-book of the gunnery officer came to light and it looks like the salvo from the Prinze Eugen could have sunk the Hood as they’ve calculated that the Bismarck’s salvo was still in the air. Now, that to me is sort-of poetic, a cruiser sinking another cruiser. (PS how many of you know that the Hood was often colloquially referred to as the ‘Submarine’, as her aft deck was often awash due her low free-board.) and finally HMS Belfast, in the brown modeled box. I’ve often opened this box, but the complexity of the kit together with the paint scheme has always scared me off. Those sharp eyed might have noticed I’ve missed two boxes. These are the Admiral Graf Spee and HMS Achilles produced by Eagle (also known later as Eagle Wall) the produced a series of 1200 scale water-line or full hull models in the late 50’s. they were done as a battle series the first being the Battle of the River Plate consisting of HMS Exeter, Achilles and Ajax, plus the Graf Spee. Eagle later released the capture of the Altmark and included the Altmark and HMS Cossack. For those that are a bit rusty on your naval history the Altmark was the supply ship for the Graf Spee and at the time of her capture was taking the Graf Spee’s prisoners back to Germany. Eagle went on to do the sinking of the Bismarck and the Battle of the Atlantic, unfortunately the company didn’t last long and soon disappeared. I’ve often wondered what happened to the molds. The two models I have, have been started but never finished and now have several parts missing, but should be reasonably easy to scratch build, also the Achilles instructions are missing, but these two boxes have real sentimental value to me, more so than any other model in my stash. Bottom shelf #1; some more ships including one real scary monster. This includes the remainder of my 1/350 scale ships and the monster that was only in the shop for a few hours before I came along just to browse as the money was a bit tight, thank goodness for credit cards. This time I’m going from left to right and top to bottom. Hiding in the far left are two Airfix models, HMS Victory starter set and a vintage poly bagged Revenge still with the printed acetate ratlines the kit molded in white plastic. The bag has been opened and the parts are complete. Is it worth building? I don’t consider myself a collector as I believe kits should be made but sometimes, just sometimes I do wonder, maybe they should be left unmade. Ok back to 350 scale ships. Right on the top almost hidden is the Revell Type VII U-boat with the Revell photo etch set. I brought it to go with the S-boat and the Prinz Eugen. Next down is the Trumpeter USS England DE 635 with the WEM photo etch set and floater basket set. Across is the Trumpeter German Zerstorer Z-25 1944 with added WEM photo etch parts. Down one we get to the big stuff with the Trumpeter HMS Hood (the Mighty ‘ood or the ‘Submarine’ depending how cool you want to sound. This kit has the Trumpeter brass barrel set added, and the WEM photo etch set together with some WEM resin turrets and AA guns. This model I feel quite confident in building it’s just a matter of time. On the very bottom is my scary monster. I was on my way home after working a morning 6 to 2 shift, and to miss part of the busy free-way I decided to do a detour which took me near one of my favorite model shops that always had quite an eclectic assortment of kits, you know, just to browse a bit with no real intension of buying anything. Well up on the top shelf there she was, just softly whispering my name, I asked the price and admit I baulked a bit as there was no way I could afford that, but. You all know where I’m going, all I can say credit cards really come in useful when they shouldn’t. The card went through and she was mine then the owner of the shop can in and immediately saw the gapping hole on the shelf. “I only put that up there mid-day.” was his comment, I think he was coming in to take it down to keep it for himself. Actually, I‘ve since confirmed that this is what he was going to do, but as I’d already paid there was nothing he could do. So, we had an unboxing in the store, the plastic has even to this day been unsealed and the hull is still locked in the box having never been removed. I’ve scoured the instruction and even written my own as Dragon instructions are not the best, but it still scares the ****xxxx**** out of me. I reckon the Dragon Scharnhorst 1943 must be the ultimate 1/350 scale model ship, all I’ve added is the WEM photo etch set and a few pieces of additional photo etch. Notice I’ve never mentioned the price, which is still on the box at over R1600. I’ve seen this same kit offered at over twice the price, now with the Rand going down it’s probably even more. Not that I could sell it as the cost of couriering it, as it’s way too big to post, would be astronomical. Maybe one day I’ll summon up some courage and make a start. Bottom shelf #2 The other bottom shelf for some more odd-ball models, and my only 1/32 scaled model. When I got back into making models I went back to where I started with my first real model kit, the Airfix Albatros D. V. I still had an old poly bag example so that was where I started, together with my first attempt at photographing models. A few months ago, I was going through some of those photos when I noticed I’d made a stupid mistake with the Albatros, I’d put the engine back-to-front and in consequence the exhaust pipe was on the wrong side, just goes to show even with instructions we can still be human. Anyway, that Albatros re-awakened my interest in WW1 aircraft and as most WW1 aircraft were cheaper than WW2 models, I quickly built up quite a collection of finished models and as some of the models had the lozenge camouflage and decals weren’t available, I learnt how to make my own getting them laser printed at a local print shop at the cheap price of R5 for an A4 size sheet. (R5 then was about ten bob 10/-) So, I quickly built up quite a collection of bi-planes from WW1 onwards to WW2. These had to go somewhere so this is where they ended up on the other bottom shelf. The bagged models on the top are Airfix Roland C-11 Walfisch and the Hannover CL-IIIa both still with their 2/9d stickers and from Jewell’s in Newquay. The other model is a Renwal Aero-Skin Pfalz D-III flown by Lt Alfred Lenz. Unfortunately, the sheet Aero-skin has suffered from age and now is so discoloured as be virtually useless. Underneath from left to right is the Roden Gotha B. V. Next is two IGM kits Nakajima Ki-27a and the I-5 (early) in an overall red livery. The I-5 was a Russian Soviet biplane fighter. This red liveried 2nd prototype became the personal aircraft of the red army air-force Chief, J. Alksnis; another odd-ball kit. Next is a collection of 1/72 Roden WW1 aircraft, Sopwith F-1 Camel two-seater trainer with 7 decal options, F-1 Camel with the Bentley engine, together with a selection of airwave white metal parts, the kit includes 4 decal options, F-1 Camel with the LaRhone engine, with 8 liveries and decals, followed by RAF S.E.5a with the Wolseley Viper engine with 3 decal options, including the aircraft of Edward Mannock. Followed by another RAF S.E.5 a with the Hispano Suiza engine with 9 decal options including James McCaddenp; Then rarely seen one the Junkers D.I. with two decal options. Next are three more oddities the Revell Polikarpov1-153 Chaika, Roden Wolseley Viper engine from WW1 in the 1/32 scale, and finally the Revell 1/72 Boeing P-26A Peashooter. (This last kit has been started with the main wing and tail plane assembled. Then it’s into the interwar period with the Airfix Bristol Bulldog in the white box; with a price sticker of R49.90. Back to WW1 with Revell’s Sopwith Triplane and the Sopwith F-1 Camel with an Airwaves PE set. Then some more WW1 this time with some old boxing from Airfix; Sopwith Pup, the RE8 1918 in a Vintage Aircraft Edition white boxing, This, model dates back to the 50’s and it’s defiantly showing its age but it’s still the only one available if you can find one. Next is the similarly boxed Arco DH4 1918, and finally Sopwith Pup. The DH4 and the Pup look to be very nice little kits. The final boxes are 4 more odd-ball kits of inter-war aircraft. Aircraft development sort-of took a back-seat in the 20’s and early 30’s especially in the military side except in France and Heller have released a nice series of 1930’s aircraft. Here’s the Dewoitine D510 with 2 decal options, the Morane Saulnier MS225, and the Nieuport Delage NiD 622 also with 2 decal options. The Morane Saulnier box also contains the Bucker Bu 133 a 1930’s WWII German trainer biplane that’s about half the size of a Spitfire. The final box is the beautiful Fiat CR.32 Chirrii with no less than 7 decal options. Two figure sets not shown are a Revell German infantry 1942 set of figures and the very nicely molded Dark Studio set of Germany, French, Russian and British WW1 airman and other related figures in some very interesting poses including a British airman quaffing a pint; Dutch courage or flying is thirty stuff? Thirsty work (Dark stu8do figures) Conclusions and after thoughts. This collection of kits is what I have left after a serious culling a few years ago. Previously it was well over 300 kits with many going back over 50 years plus, and included some vintage Frog, Matchbox, Heller, and Revell models still in their original boxes plus numinous bagged but sealed models complete with the original instructions and decals, but minus the original packaging, and some newer Dragon kits like the Do. 335 and the Arado 234 series. I only kept the kits I thought I had any chance of making or held some significant meaning for me. Believe me it was hard deciding what to keep or to let go. The better newer kits that were in the original unopened packaging were sold through a local online hobby shop; I only recued the Dragon Ki 61. The remaining +/-175 were in a couple black-bin-liner bagged, and given to another hobby shop to give away, sell for what-ever, or make-an-offer. I believe the whole lot was gone in under two weeks. Looking back, I’m glad I was forced to cull the collection as there was no way I could make that many models, not at my age, it also limited my choice of what to make next. Do I miss them? Of course, I do but at the same time hopefully they’ve been given a chance of being made, and appreciated by somebody else. I haven’t brought another model since then even though I’ve been very tempted on several occasions, but I must admit the new Airfix Mossy is very, very tempting. I can’t help wondering, if Airfix would up-scale the Mossy to 1/48th, even though it’s out of my scale range, I hope they do as it would pave the way for a 48th DH 88 Comet racer and then hopefully the beautiful Supermarine S.6B. two aircraft that were very instrumental to the development of the Spitfire and the Mosquito. I’m sure they would sell like hot-cakes. I’ve found that even with my cut-down stash I’m still spoilt for choice and having difficulties in what to build next. Decisions, Decisions! Maybe, that’s why my mojo isn’t working like it used to, hence the list of kits that are softly whispering to me, and reading through reviews on the forum seems the Airfix Zero it’s a good mojo build. (See my selection from part 1.) The Zero seems like a nice choice as I do like the Japanese WW2 aircraft, even though the livery is a bit under whelming. (Come on Airfix how about some more, like the Ki. 43, seeing as you seem to have a liking for twins.) Well, that’s about it for now. Hope you enjoyed the rambling through my stash, and wish me luck. And remember we do this for fun. John the Pom. PS. The Zero it is. JtP. Finish of with a bo0nus photo Vomag 7 or 600 with88mm Flak

Doomed: Looking for my missing mojo. I think the last time I posted about finishing a model was the Air Sea Rescue Launch, and that was way back in 2020. There were two Air Sea Rescue launches, one finished on the supplied stand, and an unfinished one on an unfinished sea scape. That one I haven’t touched since then, it’s remained on a shelf-of-doom together with a Hobby Boss 1/72 Br 52 Kriegslokomotive steam train, an Italeri Dornier Do 217N-1, a Dragon 1/72 Ta 152. (Both stalled about 5 plus years ago.) and now joined by an Airfix BE-2. Airfix unfinished Rescue launch. Doomed? Primed Italeri and Dragon Do 217 night fighter and Ta 152 H-1. Doomed? Hobby Boss Br 52 locomotive. Doomed. Whoops! Airfix BE 2. Doomed? The BE-2 was started with the hope of finding my mojo again as I’ve always enjoyed WW1 aircraft especially the Airfix versions. Maybe not the most accurate, or detailed, but usually more than adequate, and much simpler than the Roden offerings, and as I’d recently made the two versions of the Airfix Eindecker, and enjoyed both, (See previously posted review.) I thought the BE-2 would hopefully get my enthusiasm going again. Things went OK and I decided, against my better judgement to follow the instructions (not a good idea), even managed to do the rigging of the cabane struts. Then tried to add the top wing. Gluing ten points at once is just impossible and the cabane struts just didn’t fit into the cut-outs on the top wing. (My fault at not dry fitting and using the top wing as a jig when originally fitting the cabane struts, just trusting the Airfix new tooling.) Managed to sort-of get the top wing attached, but my enthusiasm was waning rapidly, then I dropped it. The top wing came off only being held by the cabane strut rigging and the rudder came off. So, the BE-2 joined the doomed models only missing being binned by a whisper. Maybe I’ll get some inspiration to try and fix it. So, I started one of my Airfix Gloster Gladiator kits and two Stug III Assault/anti-tank gun. I built the Stug III when it first came out, I think it was the third or fourth armored model Airfix produced in about 1959, as I think I was still at school, and back then, to me, it looked like a tank should have looked. So, when Airfix re-released it as a vintage classic I treated myself looking for those childhood memories. The idea being to do one as a captured Russian version, and one in German winter camouflage. In 1959 my expectations were a lot simpler than now, and all I can say is the childhood memories were changed to disappointment. The model looking little more than a toy. Both models are now 90% finished, and as I’m so disappointed with them I’ll probably just bin them. They are just not fun anymore. The Stug III s and the WW1 tank Now finished ready for recycling. All I’m keeping is the Howitzer I did finally finish the Gladiator, except for the rigging, maybe I’ll get around to it one day, but for now I’m calling it finished. Also somehow finished the WW1 male tank sans any weathering. Being honest, finishing those models felt more like a job-of-work than enjoyable modelling. Both models being brush painted, and they both look like something I might have built when I was 14 in the late 1950’s. Two views of the Gladiator brush painted in RAF colours. Not my best, but light-years ahead of the original from the late 50’s. The only model I’m happy with is an ACE kit of the Cannon de 155C a WW! 155mm field cannon finished as a museum piece, so nice and pristine with no weathering. Also, freehand brush painted. ACE 10.5 cm Howitzer. Also managed to finally finish the WW1 male tank. Also brush painted, not really satisfied with it. I’m sure I can do better. Now it looks more like a poorly made toy. Oh well! Maybe next time. Finally finished the Stug IIIs, well finished as far as I’m concerned As a side note the Br 52 locomotive is probably one of the largest and most complicated 1/72 armour model I’ve ever come across, the instructions can easily get you confused as to the orientation of what the instruction drawings are showing you that it’s all too easy to fit parts on the wrong side. So where do I find my mojo and make modelling fun again? I must admit the new Airfix Mosquito looks very tempting, I have one on order from our local supplier, just hope it comes to Cape Town pretty soon. I did wonder why Airfix decided to retool the Mossy as apart from the cockpit canopy there was nothing wrong with the previous release, and there was the choice of three versions and both crew members. The wing to fuselage join was genius, you could not use glue on that joint and nobody would know; as I said, genius. I’m sure there was a way to convert the fighter to the bomber version, after-all Frog managed it back in the 60’s. Nothing on shelf-of-doom is calling to me with maybe the exception of the Do 217, always did like the Do 17 / 217 series, again they just looked right. I’ve pulled a few candidates from my stash that have piqued my interest again. (See photo below.) From left to right there is Roden’s Pfalz D III, and Albatros D I, Airfix Albatros D V with a Revell D III in the same box, ESCI Albatros D III, and Sopwith Camel, Airfix Bf 110E trop, and the A6M2 Zero and finally the Edward Albatros D V / Va Profi-Pack. (Note the predominance of WW1 aircraft.) and my affinity for the Albatros. The ones calling the loudest are the Airfix and Revell Albatrosses D V /D III, and surprisingly the Airfix A6M2 Zero. Wish me luck. Also, I’ve added some shots of my build of the previous Mossy release done as one of the Tse-Tse Mk XVIII (Definitely on of my better efforts.) using the Camouflage & Markings; RAF Fighter Command; 1936 to 1945 by James Goulding & Robert Jones published by Ducimus Books 1970 / 71 (And it was still printed in London UK.) Tse-Tse Mosquito Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom PS. Did finally manage to get the top wing on the BE 2 now all I have to sort out is how to replace the cabane struts. Part two to follow with a ramble through my stash. All comment welcome. Oh! I'll get there soon.

Hi Seangoat Welcome back to the hobby. your Chi-ha diorama looks great, a model tank w4e don't see that often, nice job. Your photo show off the mode4l well, I especially like the last one with the tank behind the bam-boo line, very realistic. Well done and keep them coming. Re3member we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Pa uluus66. Seems like you're going to need a good supply of RLM colours. Love to see the finished result. Did you manage to separate the antenna from the sprue without breaking it, if so how? Below is a couple of photos of my effort from a few years back with added mg guns under the cowling. Brush painting the yellow over the green wasn't a good idea. the guns do line up with the drilled out cowling. The antenna was scratched built as the supplied part shattered removing it from the sprue frame. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom

Hi #R-H-O-S-@-a-T. You mention aircraft and you seem to li9ke a challenge? How about a WW1 bomber the Handley Page 0/400 ,You should be able to get a good one with-in your budget. Just remember it's big with a 17 inch wingspan. There's a build review on this forum. Hope this gives you food for thought, and good luck. With a few WW1 vehicles, figures, and maybe add a house drawn carriage, and you'll have a nice Diorama. (For WW! vehicles try Roden, they to several that might be useful. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Hi PMM. That J1Ni Gekko is a real find, a rare plane indeed. I've been looking for a kit of the aircraft since the 60's, never knew anyone made a model of it, lucky you.. I was thinking only last night that there always seems plenty of twins of USA, UK,& German WW2 aircraft, but nothing or very few Japanese, French or Italian twin engine aircraft. i know the French were famous for building some of the most ugly aircraft to fly, but it seemed they learnt very quickly and went on to produce some really beautiful and photogenic aircraft of WW2. Like the Amiot 350 series, the Leoire & Olivier LeO 451, the Breguet 693, even some of the later Bloch (174 & 175) series Dewoitine and Hanriot were showing some French flair. then there's the beautiful Potez 63 series which unfortunately suffered a lot from friendly fire due to being mistaken for an Me 110. Heller made a beautiful model of the Potez 63:1 and the 63:11 if you ever see them, grab them you won't be sorry. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Whoops! You are of course right Rien. My typo error should of course be 2016. I was born 1945 and began making models the first being the Albatros DV, when Airfix were 2/- from Woolworths. Wow that's a long time ago. Wonder were my photo disappeared to. I'll try and repost it. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Dominic. If the model is the new Airfix tooling and not the very old 1960's one Airfix should have a replacement as the Lancaster, as it's still in their catalogue. They'll probably charge you a few bob but at least you'll be able to finish the model. Your current canopy is toast as the glue damage is more than skin deep, and no amount of polishing or varnish will repair the internal structure. Hope this helps and good luck. Love to see some photos of the finished model. Remember we do this for fun. |John the Pom

You could try Hammely's in Oxford street, they used to boast at being the worlds biggest toy shop and they had a whole section devoted to model soldiers and military miniatures. Hope this helps and happy shopping. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

I'm always amazed at how well some of these old modes come out, well done on a stellar build of one of the oldest Airfix kits. My main memory of this kit from the 50's was that the main rotor blades kept breaking off and were almost impossible to repair, something the Rotordyne also suffered from neither of which made good play subjects.. Well done and looking forward to seeing more. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom

Hi Hornchurch 1940. Welcome back to the hobby. I see most of your questions concern painting and not gluing. Airfix and Revell both do a semi liquid glue with needle applicators' that are recommended, and used by most modelers, together with one of the true liquid glues like Tamiya extra-thin, although I believe Airfix / Humbrol are looking to bring their own version out in the near future. well worth a try. Brush or spray??? Personally, I wouldn't go the full hog on an air-brush as it's a reasonably costly exercise with a steep learning curve. See many of the online tutorials on this and other forums. Rattle cans are very good for spraying base or priming coats, these are best used outside as they can be quite odorous, and produce a lot of excess spray which you really don't want indoors. Just don't spray on a windy day for obvious reasons. Again, Humbrol and Tamiya are the two obvious choices. With the new ranges of modern acrylic paints most can be brush painted or air-brushed some will need their own thinners, like Taniya as they have an alcohol base. Vallejo and Humbrol being water based. I only use Tamiya and Vallejo as Humbrol got a bad name in South Africa with their previous acrylic paint drying out in the pot, and all shops stopped selling them, and now nobody trusts the newer dropper bottles. Although strangely the old enamels are still available. The additive you mention I believe you're thinking of 'retarder' and or ‘extender’. Both do a similar job of extending the drying time and making the paint go further without changing the colour or consistency of the paint as opposed to normal thinning. Both are useful in SMALL amounts on hot dry days, of which we get plenty in summer in Cape Town. Most paint ranges do some sort of retarder, and or extender at a price for a very small bottle. Better to go to a good artist supply shop where you’ll have the choice of all the well known artist brands. I use Dala retarder and Reeves gloss varnish. I’ve used the retarder with all my acrylic paints (old Humbrol; Vallejo, Tamiya, Revell.) with no ill effect except it can give matt paint a slight sheen which is easily fixed with a matt varnish, the best I’ve found being Vallejo matt varnish, just be very weary of the Humbrol matt varnish or coat (See various posts on this forum.). while at the art supply store you might look at the liquid masks they have, such as Windsor & Newton, Reeves etc again much cheaper than the usual modelling brands and you get a bigger bottle. Years ago, the brushes from modelling shops either fell into one of two types, absolutely awful and cheap or horrendously expensive but top of the line (think Sable). Today most model and or paint brands do their own lines of brushes at various prices, some even have ergonomically sculpted handles. These are usually very good quality but are mostly synthetic (nylon). Nothing wrong with these and more than adequate for most modelling needs. I’ve only used the #2 Humbrol brush found in the starter packs, and was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. If the rest of the range is of the same standard they should be more than adequate. At art shops your range and prices and shapes will be vastly expanded, just stay away from the ones with very long handles. A good starting point is getting #1, #2, #4, and a #6 or #8 in the usual round shapes; I can also recommend the squared-off flat type, try a 4mm, 8 or 10 mm and a 15 to 17 mm as a start. One of my go-to brushes is a broad flat 14mm but cut at an angle. You’ll be surprised at how useful this brush can be, I can even use the 8mm one for painting canopies. Of course, you can still go for Sable etc. just start adding zeros to the price. I brought a #00 a few years back it was 20X the price of a synthetic one and I’ve still not used it. If you look after your brushes they’ll last you for years. I’ve got brushes dating back to the 50’s, just don’t leave then standing on their bristles nothing ruins a brush quicker If you look around many stores you’d be surprised at how many things can be re-purposed for modelling tools, like fishing tackle shops for strong side cutters at a fraction of the cost of ‘sprue’ cutters, they might be a bit chunky, but you won’t break them, and they can always be ground down with an angle-grinder. As for your choice of modelling subjects; unless you’re really bent on the nostalgic trip I’d leave the 76th armour alone. Those horrid soft vinyl tracks and all that flash, I’d go straight to the new 72nd scale models. The only thing I’ve found that are still good in the 76th scale are the soft skinned models like the Opel Blitz, a very nice enjoyable build even though the chassis boxes are wrong. I’ve just finished a couple of old 76th armour kits, and to be honest I didn’t enjoy them one bit. Even though I’d made the Stug 3 when it originally came out and I thought it was the ‘bee-knees’ at the time. I was so pleased at the re-release I brought two, big mistake. There’s loads of really good 72nd model armour made by the likes of Trumpeter, Dragon, Revell and Roden. The Roden model of the WW2 Opal Blitz command wagon is a peach of a kit, highly recommended. I hope this helps and looking forward to seeing a few of your finished projects. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom.

Hi Old Modeler Well done, I like your thinking. I used something similar for doing the lozenge pattern on WW1 German aircraft, by first drawing it in a drawing program the, laser printing it out. cutting it to the approximate size and finally trimming it when dry. The only thing being don't use over dark colours and always print at the greatest colour saturation. Your Revenge has turned out great, I'm always surprised at how well many of these old kits turn out. Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing more. Remember wew do this for fun. JtP

Ki Randell. A good reference book for RAF fighters is the Ducimus book of Camouflage & Markings; F Fighter Command Northern Europe; 1936 to 1945; by James Goulding & Robert Jones. first published in 1970 / 71 (my copy). Hopefully this book is still available. It is my go-to reference for models in that period. It seems the single seat fighters all had a 'similar' pattern with slight variations due to their differences in shape, (except for the Gloster Gladiator whose camo pattern was completely different), but the twin engine fighter pattern while following a similar theme were substantially different. Whether masks or matts were used is debatable, but as the aircraft were mass produced on assembly lines some sort of standardization must have been used, and I'm sure some variations accured with masks being put on upside down or on the wrong wing. It has been well documented that in many cases that the camo pattern often between the wings and fuselage didn't line up correctly. But generally all new aircraft reaching dispersal units from the manufactures were very similar, within the A, B, C, & D schemes. Damaged or overhauled aircraft coming from operational maintenance unit where far more likely to have great variation o camouflage patterns together with damaged aircraft repaired in the field where new or salvaged parts were used that required some-sort of touching up. Hope this helps just remember it's your model, just don't get too wound up in trying for the N'th degree of accuracy it can drive you crazy; so if you want a pink spitfire (yes they did actually exist), it's your decision. Remember we do this for fun JtP

I learnt to drive in one of those, spent virtually all the lessons driving at night in all the weather conditions imaginable including packed snow. Passed my test first time, What can I say I had a good teacher. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom

Hi Graham. Those kits were re-boxed MPC models, made the Gangbuster one in what now seems a life-time ago. I remember they came with many options including armament and bot-leg cargo. Not sure about the figures but quite likely. they could be made with the canopy up or down, had a fully detailed engine, many chrome plated parts, (very un-Airfix like) and working steering. Not the easiest models to complete, but looked quite impressive when completed. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

hi Malcolm. Welcome to the forum, and the world of plastic modeling. Concerning scales the above answers are correct but it can still be a bit confusing. Basically for every six feet on the real thing in 144th scale this is represented by half-an-inch on the model, in 72nd scale by one inch on the model, at 48thy scale equals one-and-half inches, and at 1/24 scale equals three inches, So a model of a Spitfire that has a wing span of just over 36 feel the model in 72nd scale will be a fraction over 6 inches while the same model in 24th scale will have an 18 inches wing span. Hope this helps, and would love to hear how you get on with your first two models. Just remember there's no such thing as a bad build, each build is your best build, even the first one, and there's no such thing as a silly question, so just ask if you get stuck. Good luck and enjoy the new year and have fun. Remember we do this for fun. Happy new year to everyone. John the Pom

The Sally is a very under-represented bomber. i believe Hasagawa did one donkeys-years-ago. would love to know how you get on with the kit, and see the finished result. Well done ICM. Remedmber we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi null_null89. Been trying to reply to your post for the past two weeks, finally made it. If you can find a copy of Fighters, Attack & Training Aircraft, or Bombers, Patrol & Reconnaissance Aircraft 1914 – 1919 both by Kenneth Munson you’ll find in the back an Appendix 1 & 2. Appendix 1 is by Kenneth Munson, and deals mainly British and German marking and colours and their respective finishes including the German lozenge pattens. The second Appendix is by Ian D Huntley, A.M.R.Ae.S. who’s been studying and researching aircraft colours for over twenty years, and was considered by many museums including the RAF Museum at Hendon to be the go-to expert especially for WW1 aircraft The Appendix 2 dealing with the British “Khaki” finishes thought-out the WW1 conflict. Including the mixing of the various pigments and the oils and solvents used together with their application. These little books (Aprox A5) are a mine of information and my initial go-to reference of WW1 aircraft. They’re published by Octopusbooks.co.UK, and mine have the price tag of 7.99 pounds each. For the British “Khaki” colour I find the Vallejo model colour 70.887 9 (position 93 ) brown violet to be about right, as it is a khaki brown with a green tinge depending on the light. Just don’t use a green it just looks wrong you’d be better-off using US field drab. For the underside beige or buff in the Vallejo range are ok-ish may a touch to dark unless you want a particularly weathers look other-wise try ice yellow for a more pristine look. The undersides of British WW1 aircraft were usually left plain doped varnish made with linseed oil which yellows very quickly. As for gloss or mat finish, the final coat was often a clear varnish so new aircraft were quiet shiny when new, but of course weathered very quickly when used on the western front, so a mat or semi mat to satin finish would be more appropriate. This can easily be achieved using Vallejo mat and satin varnishes or mixing them to get the desired sheen. As you said the Albatros fighters had a molded ply-wood fuselage that wat varnished in a clear varnish for that a satin or semi-gloss finish would be better with the wings a more mat finish. One thing I’ve found helpful, especially with the Cape Town weather, is adding some retarder to Vallejo paints. Not only does it stop the paint drying really fast but it just takes off the complete flatness of the matt paint giving it just a touch of sheen. Hope you find this helpful and looking forward to seeing your completed projects. The models below were all painted with Vallejo Brown Violet note the colour variation depending on the lighting, even though they were all taken in natural sunlight. Airfix F2b. This model really needs retiring or retooling. Roden's F2b as a night fighter. ESCI SE. 5a (I wish Airfix would tool this plane I've been waiting for over 50 years.) Remember we do this for fun John the Pom.

Hi Rod. The figures come with the kit, unfortunately one isn't really visible as he's in the wheel-house. I've made both the E-boat and this RAF launch and consider the figures in the kits are arguably the best 1/72 figures Airfix have ever produced, and I've been making Airfix since the mid to late 50's. If you see any of these kits grab them as they are a joy to build. I can't comment on the Vosper as I've yet to get my grubby hands on one, but by all accounts they are as good as the other two in the range. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom.

That Ford 'J' car looks like it could be an early prototype version of the Ford GT 40. Don't remember ever seeing it, but I do remember making the 'Gang Buster' car (Number 10 on the catalogue page.). Yes it was a re-boxing of an MPC kit, that came with working steering, full engine detail and a Gangster figure with a load of guns. I don't remember what year I made the model, but it was much earlier than 1968 as by them I was into slot car racing. Hope you find a copy, and would love to see it on the forum. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Oh! The days of innocence. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom

Hi Tom I've made both the E.II and the E.III several years ago and had no trouble with both the kits. Both kits are identical the only change was the propeller used. In fact i found both kits went together beautifully with just a little seam clean-up. i can only think you must have assembled something in the wrong place. When doing any internals I always lightly assemble the part then use the external parts as a jig to ensure the part's correctly assembled and adjust as required. I did do a build review with a comparison with the Revell E.II several years ago (pre covid) that you might find useful but you might have to dig a little to find it. I've added a couple of photos of these models that show they do go together. Hope this helps. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom.

Hi Ian. Sorry to hear you've lost the use of one hand, temporally I hope. You might find the use of a jig helpful most use rubber-bands to hold the model in place. useful for holding the main assembly while adding other parts. I use mine for holding the fuselage assembly when adding the top wing on biplanes. the other thing you could try is getting something fairly solid like a large plastic jar full of water the with a large blob of blue or white-tack, you can then mount the model onto the top, useful for painting or adding decals. Hope this helps and good luck. Hope your hand heels soon. Remember we do this for fun. John the Pom

Hi Ian. I agree with everything you say about decals being printed too closely together especially in the 72nd scale. The earlier new tooled kits seemed to be better, maybe because Cartograph printed them and planned the decals better. Airfix is not the only one guilty of this some of the newer Revell kits have very cramped decal sheets; think He177, as do some ICM models, see their Do17. i had this problem when I started printing my own decals, the 1.5mm gap looks fine when you're imposing them but trying to cut them out was a nightmare. Just the increase of 0.5mm makes a huge difference. Okay with the extra 0.5 mm might mean i get a few less decals but how many 'No Walkway' or "No Lift" signs do you need, personally, I for one would be grateful for a few extra stencils as I usually somehow seem the manage to ruin one of them. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom PS Why is decal paper so hard, even a new scalpel blade goes blunt in a few cuts, and these new cramped decal sheets are going to need multiple new blades before you're finished. JtP.

Hi TR. I guess from your question you're not living in the UK, if so any shipping abroad can be horrendous, and fraught with VAT and all sorts of customs duty problems, so much so that another well known online seller and reviewer now doesn't ship to the EU countries. Maybe Airfix has fixed the EU problems, but the postage could be between 50% to 100% the cost of the models you've ordered so I doubt Airfix would give free postage for overseas customers Hope this helps, and hope to see some finished results. Remember we do this for fun JtP