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163 is the Humbrol code for satin dark green, BS381C 241 is the British Standards description. DB0163 is good to go.

It means the current production runs are sold out, it doesn't mean that they won't do more production runs in the future.

Don't know about mottle, but try TopNotch: https://topnotchmasks.com/

The original Revell F4U doesn't really pass muster, but the recent new tool kit issued as 03983, 03955 and 03917 is fairly decent.

Well thinned enamels should spray as good as any other media, but whilst white spirit can be used for thinning them, not all white spirit is the same. Best practice is to use the thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer. In respect of acrylic media, this is a bit of a minefield if you're starting out. Acrylic can be aqueous (water) based, spirit based such as regular Tamiya and Mr Hobby, or lacquer based such as Tamiya Lacquer Paint and Mr Color. There are any number of acrylic paint brands out there, but it's important to know what base they have. I'm not a big fan of aqueous acrylic, it doesn't adhere well on bare plastic and is often associated with tip drying/clogging. Spirit based acrylics were a revelation when I first tried them, despite being miscible with water they can be thinned with cellulose and spray very nicely. More recently lacquer acrylics have become available and for me these are first choice, especially when used with Mr Levelling Thinner. They spray readily and harden up rapidly. Gloss lacquer acrylics should be sufficiently hard after 20-30 minutes to apply masking over them.

In the first Dambuster issue of this kit part D32 is referenced to paint number 33 (matt black). In fact turret interiors were usually matt black in order to reduce searchlight glare. It's curious that the paint number is missing as per the image above, the graphics are otherwise identical.

Monthly multiple releases was pretty much a thing through the sixties and early seventies.

Hi Susan, the IPMS has a show calender here: https://ipmsuk.org/calendar/category/uk-model-shows/ Also a list of IPMS branches/SIGs here: https://ipmsuk.org/ipms-network/ipms-uk-branches/ Apologies, but the text editor here won't let me post live links, you'll have to copy and paste.

A piece of scrap cut to shape for the lamp housing and a sliver of acetate for the glass. Use white glue to secure the latter. I save clear packaging to use as glazing a) because it's often thinner than clear sheet you can buy and b) because I'm tight.

1967 - I remember getting a baggy with the header as per your picture, for the then princely sum of 2/-.

On the top menu bar click on Support, then Spares Request.

I'd say given the success of the Hellcat and given that the 1/72 A6M2 is a near fixture in the catalogue, then there might be a good chance of it appearing in 1/24. After the 109G-6 to go with the Spitfire IX, of course. wink

Try 67 Tank Grey. It might need a dash of white to lighten a bit unless near enough is good enough applies.

In fact both suggestions are options that are already available from other manufacturers, although of course that doesn't mean that Airfix might not consider them. To be honest I would think a B-17F less likely, but if they were to do a new tool B-29 you'd like to think they'd do Little Boy and Fat Man to go with it.

I paint the stripes first then mask off and paint the rest. There's lots of comments about how neat the stripes are on forums and social media, usually with the same one or two photos to prove a point. My own view is that the stripes were probably painted without a great deal of precision, but when I look at efforts to reproduce this on a model it just looks naff, so I use masking. In other cases you'll find photos of stripes that have been painted carefully, so masking is a must. Viewing at a scale distance for 1/48 or smaller I would suggest the stripes will probably look straight. At larger scales you might want to make a value judgement and use references to make a decision.

To join track ends together without hot screwdrivers, staples or thread I use gel superglue nuked with accelerator. For some reason this works a lot better than cyanoacrylate on its own, it may be due to the exothermic reaction bonding the glue into the track material.

It was the perceived wisdom back in the year dot, so I'm guessing you have an old reference. I can remember reading about it in Scale Models nineteen eighty something, when Ray Rimmel did a BoB series. All the more recent Airfix 109E instructions, irrespective of scale, are indicative of the 02/71 scheme.

In fact from early 1940 02/71 was the standard factory uppers finish (in the light of operational experience). Prior to that 70/71 was used during the Polish campaign, but typically for the French campaign and BoB it would be 02/71.

The late Edgar Brooks always contended that when Hu 90 was first introduced it was as a specific interior colour for when the original 1/24 Spitfire was issued. Having seen his researches I'm inclined to agree, Supermarine and their contractors were using a brighter colour than MAP Aircraft Grey Green. I've never really felt that Hu 78 is convincing as Aircraft Grey Green, originally it was too dark and too green, although I think it's been modified in recent times.

Try this conversion chart, it's downloadable in pdf format: https://d63oxfkn1m8sf.cloudfront.net/7616/6980/5182/Humbrol_-_Shade_Chart_28-11-22_Online_Version_Web.pdf Apologies, you'll have to copy and paste, for some reason my text editor doesn't have a link function. Quite remarkable that Airfix release a marquee product, specify a particular paint, but can't supply it. Risible in fact.

No, the only requirement was that it be visible to the pilot.

Period photos often show the gas patch located as per your model on fabric wing Hurricanes. I've seen photos of metal wing Hurricanes with the patch inboard of the roundel, but unless anybody has a photo of KW@z showing it differently, then it's probably correct.