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81F

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Everything posted by 81F

  1. Not sure if a computer consitutes a workbench but I've just finished the 3D modelling for my Camping Coach Interior for a short Triang Clerestory Composite, and just ordered the partions (biege bits) from shapeways in WSF (see below). If it fits I'll order the remaining parts (bed linin & white table top in WSF with the brown furiture and kitchen units in FUD). Now of to finish painting the body and look for the roof!/media/tinymce_upload/d9cbf67ffff7b971bd68d122a29977e4.PNG
  2. Just finished hard wiring a DCC chip onto a Standard Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. This time it will go into my Jinty 16564 (repainted form a BR one). This is the fifth time I've done one for this loco but have previously changed my mind and used the chassis in other Hornby 0-6-0s. Now to program the thing.
  3. This is just calling out for a Hornby Triang short clerestory. Note how it has some of the compartments missing as well! http://www.steampicturelibrary.com/exterior-view-of-camp-coach-no-w9910-1952/print/12422106.html So I've just started to get the parts together
  4. As an aside when riviting anything that should pivot, the technician at my school would place some cigarette paper between the two components., When removed this gave just enough clearence for the components to move freely.
  5. One modeller at an exhibition told me they used coffee grounds. Not sure how he coloured it though. I tried a test piece myself but have never taken it furher as I prefer granite. I usually apply the balat dry using a brush to create the shoulder then: 1., spray a very weak solution of washing up liquid and water over it just to slightly dampen the ballast This destroys any surface twnsion in the next stage; 2, dribble or use an eyedropper to apply diluted PVA glue to the point when the glue begins to show white through the stones. 3. At this point I would shake any static flock over the layout and apply any other foliage wheen I would want a rather unkept run down look
  6. If your layout is set in the 1970s don't forget to have a working baggage trolly sycronised with the start of the message so that the noise of it's passing makes the whole message impossible to hear! This happend year after wear as we awaited out connection at Basingstoke when going to Devon! Seriously how about these: Note I ave not listend to them all the way through - life is too short!
  7. When double heading with Steam and deisel I think it was best practice to put the diesel at the fron (although I've seen photos the other way round). I think the concern was smuts etc from the seam loco going into the deisels air intakes. Any way back to the models poliss is quite right about speed matching bit then again I have that trouble even between locos of the type beit steam or diesel. I wanted to my dean single to pilot one of my county 4-4-0s but found the county pushed the singles tender off when going round bends. To try and solve this I attempt to match locos of a similar weight and speed but put the faster one on front. However, it's not just top speed that can be a problem but also differing accelleration.
  8. Two of the Blue Box companies southern PMV - I was actually after a CCT to replace my Dapol one which hates being coupled next to my Fruit Ds. Having seen the Blue CCTs I didn't notice the diffence until they arrived but that won't be a problem as you can only see the wagon sides in the photo of the train make up I am trying to replicate so they might be right after all!
  9. A Hornby R6625 GWR MOGO nice model but for those who are wondering it has wide couplings in the old "Airfix" style sockets.
  10. Western Express Digital Train Set. A really nice set bought at Hattons knock down price and a set of wide nem pocketed couplings.
  11. A set of King George V plates from Fox. I can now rename/number my spare King George II. The nice thing is the lower part of the backing board is green and they will supply lining transfers. However, I will need to do a littl work to get them on the loco and the lining will be very fiddly - the whole job would be so much easier if someone made waterslide plates to stick over the originals though. I've also just put a garter coat of arms on the tender (well a spare) so I'm in two minds about fitting a bell - If I do not, does anyone know where I can get a Westinghouse pump these days and possibly 1:76th scale Britania.
  12. Yes, although I use AutoCAD for work I do not have easy access at home so I used a free package called Tinkercad which allows you to build thins up out of cubes, cone sheres et and trim them. The only downside is the smootheness of curves is not great and these require a bit of work to get them smooth. Myy main solution for this is to sprey with Halfords indercoat and lightly file back the ridges to the plasric and respray, sometimes two or three times. (taking care tomask of the flat bits with detail so as not to get too much paint on them.
  13. Answer to number 3 one of my tank loco bodies is around £27-28 for the rather grainy white strong flexible plastic around £50 in Frosted ultradetail (depending on th exchange rate - I use a company that prints in the netherlands). Below is one of mine in undercoat awaiting its first sanding down and second undercoat./media/tinymce_upload/5ec1a765efaa9c100c1f8ffe644d5771.jpg GWR 517 However, my most sucessful prints seem to be coach bogies /media/tinymce_upload/3f7abaf599a67523b248d41a9b6c68bb.jpg GWR American for Hornby Siphon G & H and Lima Siphon G Though I'm probably most proud of my 6 wheeled siphons (currently two versions):/media/tinymce_upload/612f42abf64c75eaaa41a0368f897703.jpg Although all of the above were printed for me commercially. I would also ike to add that all the above were designed for use around Hornby cmponents (wheelschassis couplings etc)
  14. @stevescan Really great shots, nice 70s atmosphere, although with a quick change of road vehicle and porta cabin you could probably run anything from 1940s to the early 90s if you wanted I notice you have a similar problem to me in that how do you stop that gap showing beteen the baseboard and base of the building if you dont want to glue them down. My solution was to put selotape around rhe base of the building and lay the surfacing up to it then break it out when dry but that can be a bit hit and miss. Alternatively make the adjacent road/footway out of thin balsa on top of the board and use the buiding as a template to trim it to fit. Still a really lovely layout though
  15. /media/tinymce_upload/0260a5fc090a7d0223879d2709146fea.jpg One of my signal boxes (actually the only one I've managed to build as yet!). Made from a hornby R421 GWR signsl box kit but with a new roof (I didn't think the original had a steep enough pitch) and nw interior. The vents and Stove pipe were plastic parts from the Prototype Models card kit. The lever frame and other details were a Wills signal box interior. The name plate was from a coopercraft any name kit.The name Parc Ddu is Welsh for Black Park (I hope!) Although most of my layout based on Chirk, this "northern" end probably bears no resemblance to the real Black Park so I thought a translation of the name might be more suitable. However I would be interested in knowing wgat the real Black Park box (north of Chirk) looked like The lamp hut is a repainted brown Scaledale item.
  16. An S&DJR 2P lovely lookin loco, off to test run and chip. Only slight moan I have is that it would have been nice to have matching couplings front and back but the nem pocket on the tender means I can fix that. Good job I don't use the small tension locks!
  17. Very much of interest PP. I missed your reply due to travel and duff internet connxn, but eventually found where I asked the question. thanks Rob The GWR did quite a bit of renaming. The preserved Castle number 5051 Earl Bathurst was originally Dryslwyn Castle. Later on the name Dryslwyn Castle was used on 7018. I believe the most transfered/reused name was Ogmore Castle being carried by 3 locos 5056 (later Earl of Powis), 5080 (Defiant) and lastly7035. Of course there were the GWR Counties 4-4-0 and 4-6-0 types. However the GWR avoided using the same names at the same time and ever renamed locos with similar names for example a number of Stars carried King Names, 4021 British Monarch was originally King Edward. Notably these "Kings" did not carry a roman numeral within their names they were just simply "King Edward". Interestingly when first renamed it was "The British Monarch". Also there was a GWR Evening Star, number 4002 which waswithdrawn in 1933
  18. Just opened a parcel that came earlier today and found it contained the Pitchford Hall i ordered (split from the Tysely trainpack I think) It is a very nice runner and slightly disapointed with two aspects. The first and most important i that it has a smoke box door numberplate so not strictly in G W livery but I can probably remove it (done it so often before). owever it is such a lovely looking model I might just leave it and remember not to look at it head on!
  19. Two more Oxford Rail wagons, Cripin's Arley Coal and Arley Collery coal wagons. Now to order some more medium couplings!
  20. Hi Buz I remember seeing at least one company that makes circitry for various flashin/flickering lights at exhibitions and on the net/eBay. They do bonfires, fireplaces, blacksdmiths, arc and gas welding lights. Indeed I may have bought one for the planned smithy at the Chirk end of my layout but I cannot remember for sure - Old age I've also literally searched "model railway fireplace".and got a hit with two lazer cut fireplaces with flickering lights for just under a fiver.
  21. @Buz I am really sorry but I am going to have to make a really bad joke and I hope you will not take offence... I think we'll have to call you "Buz kight your (light year) hut". Anyway enough of the bad puns. Have you got an interior? pehaps a small stove underneath the stovepipe. I fabricated one once from a bit of wire and a 00 dustbin (though other bit of tube would do for my signal box - will post photo shortly
  22. Hi Carltonf, I dont't actually have a 3D printer myself but send the files off to a printing service called Shapeways who print them and return them for a fee. Although this saves on the initial outlay it probably works out slightly more expensive but I can try out different materials more easily. The other advantage is that if I make the model available others can order them from Shapeways too.
  23. /media/tinymce_upload/4b0c4832b17b4adf2d99329b4c96f53e.JPG The LMS Version
  24. Just 3D printed more replacemnt chassis for my 6 wheeled Sasage Vans. Below is a comparrison for the GWR version (Mine on left). Although mine has nem pockets, I did wimp out on a clemenson chassis and took the easy option of turning off the centre wheel flanges in an electric drill. /media/tinymce_upload/50a65f4049c8dd86665b49c668a05891.JPG
  25. An Oxford Rail open wagon (E Welford - Oxford) for my "Thames Valley" coal train. However, it may have just exceeded the lenth of the longest goods loop so I may have to get some more wagons and split the train into two!
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