81F

I found this with my margaste built Saint and 8F possibly of a similarvintage which had been in storage. Assuming the pickup method is the same, Check that the brass contact pin on the tender is bright and clean and do the same with the phospher bronze (?) pickups on the coupling bar. Also ensure that the both pickups touch the pin. I am also assuming that there is good conectivity between the loco wheels and the pickups on the coupling bar. Also if the tender runs with another chassis (I assume you mean an unpowered loco, does the Princess run OK with another motorized tender(probaly should have asked that first)

Really Nice looing. I must tidy up the railway room and get back to building mine in enest. Currently I canot run anything because a large proportion of my stock is on the track and I only have a few feet of op-en track to test run!

Why not get a new Neomagnet. There are several available on ebay for different motors. I have heard good reviews abot them.

Many thanks WTD, just what I need

Hi choralc (or any one else with this model) can you do me a big favour and measure the coal rails on the tender, I need the length,height, number of bars and upright spaing. Also are they only on one side. My second hand version of 9449 had them missing and I need to fabricate some new ones. Cheers

Just orfered a blue box City GWR 3700 Class 'Killarney' in plain Great Western Green. I really wanted a Bulldog for my 1920s stopping trains but when I found this had been based at Shrewsbury, just a few stops up the line from where I am modelling I just had to get it. Should look just the part with a mixed bag of long clerestories and Collett 57' my need to change transfers on the coaches though to GWR aove coat of arms.

/media/tinymce_upload/2d4bdc403407d2ec533b721828848a49.jpg Just got one of these for under £40 in first class cndition. I just wish I could get some other coaches in the same fully lined LMS livery

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/media/tinymce_upload/7944b03e9d1e8695f73aa94ee1444cff.jpg

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/media/tinymce_upload/6bbacbd9fd7bd6f05932992800f66873.jpg The baseboard joint is actually diguised by the kerb though since colour washing he road I doubt if I'll ever get them apart again!

A few shots of my layout (the 009 bit) /media/tinymce_upload/0a4436143d00e1bd51bff9075577c087.jpg

A western wanderer train set fronm the Blue Box team off ebay. Brand ew and at the same price as a a similar pannier, plus i got a Toad, a shunters truck, controller and circle of track trown in! Not that the track and controller are much use to me and I've probably got ore shunters trucks than I will ever need!

Just taken delivery of the first prt of my 3D printed Camping Coach Interior (for short Triang Clerestory Composite). The biege bits shown below. Together with my 8'6" Dean bogies /media/tinymce_upload/d9cbf67ffff7b971bd68d122a29977e4.PNG Only slight error is thatwhen fitted the table (to be ordered later) will prevent the body screw going up to the roof. However, as th eroof os a bery good fit without it and I rally do not want a huge pillar in the dining room, it is probably a good thing! Actual photos below.

A Class 29, judgig by the box possibly one of the first batch in green. totally out of period but I've only bought it as a tug for my track cleaning train. Having said that it is beginning to grow on me!

I have to admit being very impressed by my TTS Hall but the price is such that I doubt if I would retro fit many of my locos However, if I were I'd go for One or two Halls two stars (though I'd probably have to make do with a Castle sound) A GWR 0-6-0 of msome kind possibly intended for a pannier, howeverI'd probably stick it in my Bachmann 2251 with ROD tender. 2 kings if they could be fitted in the older loco drive type one for each of GWR 2-8-0s

@ flyingfox4475 You think that's bad. My 009 needed a 9mm gauge turntable with an approx diameter of 50mm (2"). sadly the n gauge kit (PECO) is approx 150mm (6") imagine the fun I had shortening the bridge reducing the diameter of the pit by constructing new side walls from a piece of a down pipe spout and then getting everythiong concentric, let alne building the mechanism from mecano! Sadly i have to make anothe for the other end of my layout so I've just bought the motorizing unit but may need some more mechano.

Thank you LC&DR. This was produced on a free CAD package called TinkerCAD. It allows you to make up a virtual 3D model from Cubes, spheres cyliners cones etc from which you can build up more complex shaped (like a GWR 517 body or coach bogies. The ony downside id that cyliners can have a bit of a planked effect that need fettling. A google search sould find the site if you want to have a go. If you want to 3D print you will need to set up an account with a 3D printing service (if you don't have a 3D printer) but my one with shapeway is free (I oly pay for the printed model). They also automatically check your design to see if it will print when you upload your design and often offer fixes.

I have to admit to prefering FOX as they paint the lower part of the plate GWR green and supply lining transfers for a little extra

I bought a couple of the new Dapol working signals last week, both Southern, a short one on a lattice post and a taller rail built example. (Not cheap, but look very good) They are 'dead ringers' for the two signals at either end of my local station when I was a lad. Now need to modify my layout plan to fit them in!! Although I've got a few Dapol signals to replace the ratio working signals I've yet to test mine. However, I needed a fixed distant to warn drivers comming off my colliery branch of the approching junction with the mainline.. Sadly ration do not seem to make the fixed distant any more and to the best of my knowlege Dapol never have.

Just unwrapped a Ratio Fixed distant - been after one for ages. Although they still make the others this seems to have been dropped.

Can you tell me if this is loco or tender driven. I still have quite a few Hall/Saint bits in a box somewhere and am always looking for bits to complete a loco. If loco driven I could look out for a body which would add to the choices I have for a restoration project.

I've just bought yet another Hornby Castle tender (that means I'll have two spare! However my intention for this one is a little more drastic than just a livery variation. As I have at least one spare set of wheels I intend to 3D print an eight wheeled chassis for it. see: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/gallery/album_1667/med_gallery_2099_1667_318985.jpg PS I also got some more DCC chips so more soldering to do, this time an Ivatt 2-6-2T a blue box team loco I picked up in the arcade in Hungerford lfor £40 last month.

Don't forget Gordon in LMR blue with red frames http://www.peterboggis.co.uk/SVR_Archive/SVR-IM-13.jpg

That's a very good question, I've just had to look them up! They are descriptions that Shapeways use to describe the materials they print. WSF = White Strong & Flexible which is Polyamide. It's a bit grainy looking, will not glue easily (thoufgh I have stuck some broaken bits together with superglue. It is the cheapest material so I try to use it first. Being flexible I find itr good for coach bogies and wagon chassis as you can spring the W irons back to drop the whhels in. FUD -= Frosted Ultra Detail is an acrylic material. It generally has a much smmother finish and shows up fine detail better than WSF however it's more brittle and twice the price!