81F

Comparing my version of the international tank with 101, it lookd like the gears, motor, wheels, connecting and piston rods were used on the pocket rockets.

Given that the Hornby coaches do not have seating, I think it more likely that the entire train will be more like the 1930s version. Although given that the Lion I have is the 1980 version it is probably more like the train I rode on at the Didcot Railway centre, which is one of the reasons why I made the last minute decisions to by this model even though I have the Thunderbolt set on pre-order.

Many thanks Going Spare but it was not a white "roofed" Pullman like the ones in the sets you mentioned but a white Pullman to match those in the R2797M "The White Pullman" train pack or Torquay Pullman that I was referring to. On these Pullmans the panel above the windows which carries the name PULLMAN is cream rather than the later umber.

I've seen a photo showing the GWR Torquay Pullman with what looks like Collett 57' coaches either end. Unfortunately I cannot tell exactly which ones but the one at the rear is a brake while the other next to the loco is not. A reasonable representation of this train can be acheived by using the old type Hornby Collett brake and composite (ideally with the GWR coat of arms rather than the shirtbutton logo. This is particularly helpful as I am not aware of any white pullman brake coached to add to the three coach train pack.

Firstly I would like to thank What About The Bee for posting the photo of the underside of the coach which showed me that it would be possible before I bought the coaches. In addition to the coach you will need the following: Peco Parkside PA34 Mounting Blocks For NEM CouplingsStandard NEM pocketsNarrow tension lock couplings with cranked arms (I used some spare Bachmann ones I had in the bit box)A needle filePolystyrene cement (I use methyl ethyl keytone aka MEK)Method: File a slot in the middle of the mounting block on the top which would be closes to the floor of the wagon when glued in place. (see below) This needs to be just deep enough so that mounting block will touch the underside of the coach floor without it rocking on a longitudinal spine that runs the length of the coach: Next fit the pocket and glue to the underside of the coach so that the front face of the pocket is just level or around half a millimeter back from it (see coach on the right below). Note: it took several attempts to get the pockets to stick firmly in placeOnce the glue has set insert the couplings. Since the pockets sit tight up under the buffer beams I had to use some spare Bachmann couplings with cranked arms (see photo of finished coach below;Once fitted these coupling tie up reasonably well with the original Triang First class coaches which I had already fitted with the narrow "screw on" tension locks which I used to replace the original wide couplings. I hope this will be useful to someone. Regards Steve

Firstly I would like to thank What About The Bee for posting the photo of the underside of the coach which showed me that it would be possible before I bought the coaches. In addition to the coach you will need the following: Peco Parkside PA34 Mounting Blocks For NEM CouplingsStandard NEM pocketsNarrow tension lock couplings with cranked arms (I used some spare Bachmann ones I had in the bit box)A needle filePolystyrene cement (I use methyl ethyl keytone aka MEK)Method: File a slot in the middle of the mounting block on the top which would be closes to the floor of the wagon when glued in place. (see below) This needs to be just deep enough so that mounting block will touch the underside of the coach floor without it rocking on a longitudinal spine that runs the length of the coach: Next fit the pocket and glue to the underside of the coach so that the front face of the pocket is just level or around half a millimeter back from it (see coach on the right below). Note: it took several attempts to get the pockets to stick firmly in placeOnce the glue has set insert the couplings. Since the pockets sit tight up under the buffer beams I had to use some spare Bachmann couplings with cranked arms (see photo of finished coach below;Once fitted these coupling tie up reasonably well with the original Triang First class coaches which I had already fitted with the narrow "screw on" tension locks which I used to replace the original wide couplings. I hope this will be useful to someone. Regards Steve

Thanks again Bee, I have now obtained 3 coaches and converted one and am looking for other parts to finish of the remaining two. I will post my method in a separate thread as it might be useful to others.

Thanks Bee, I used to use three links but bad eyesight forced ma to give them up. Also I have a spot on my layout which is not conducive to three link couplings where my Lion will probably operate. However, your photos have convinced me that fitting narrow tension locks is possible, if not with the Parkside Dundas fittings then possibly something 3d printed.

Many thanks all, Although nothing much to do with coach wheels my researches found this site: https://www.newton-le-willows.com/?p=1751 Which is mostly about Lion 1979 rebuild/restoration but it does mention some interesting additions made by the LMS in 1929. As a result I am thinking that I should be asking about the replica coaches build for the LMR centenary rather than the originals! In which case I am probably looking a straight coaches but a combination of bad eyesight and the quality of some of the photos on the web means that I am not sure.

Please could someone post a picture of the underside of these coaches as I would like to see if it is possible to fit narrow tension lock couplings before buying any. This is so I can run them with my old Triang rocket coaches and possibly rocket itself if I ever get it DCC fitted.

I would like to replace the plastic wheelson my three Triang Liverpool and Manchester coaches and am wondering whether I should use split spoked wheels or plain spoked? Which is likely to be more Authentic Many thanks for any suggestions

I've ordered some bits, but I am a bit busy at the momenty so will probably not be able to look at things for a couple of weeks

I've ordered some bits, but I am a bit busy at the momenty so will probably not be able to look at things for a couple of weeks

When I used a 4-4-0 county chassis to create a 4-4-2T County tank, I removed the traction tyres and used a small needle file to turn the wheel rims down slightly to remove the groove that the tyre sits in (so I could get more current collection). The chassis still works and seems to have had no ill effects although I did need to turn the back wheels down slightly so the chassis sat level. However, care needs to be taken to encase the gears in cover (made from card and tape) to stop the swarf from getting into any gears

Many thanks for the idea of using an old Hornby one but it wont fit unless Hornby produced two radically different chassis for their N"s. Having up ended my Father's Hornby Dublo N2, It was immediately obvious that the distance between the pony truck pivot and the trailing wheels is considerably longer than that of the Wrenn loco. In addition the arm through which the pivot screw passes on the wrenn loco is above the trailing wheel axle while the hornbys one is below. As my fathers model is a three rail version I thought I'd google the Hornby 2 rail version but all these seem to follow the 3 rail pattern.

@wapples, excellent attention to detail and a good way to fill in the space. But I wonder if you have ever seen the Ealing Comedy The Titfield Thunderbolt made in the 1950s? This part of your layout is very reminiscent of a scene from that film where a train passes a cricket pitch on a low embankment so two "films" for the price of one! PS excellent video

Mine is the Rapido Lion. I chose this over the hornby one since it had a narroe tention lock coupling which I thought I could easily swap for a wide version (so it could pyll my Triang Roacket coaches. However, the loco is not fitted with an NEM pocket as the coupling locates directly onto the dovetail that a pocket would normally fit into. Thankfully the solution was easy, I just swapped the wide trianf couplings on the coached for some narrow tension locks recovered from some Bachmann coaches or wagons.

I have a spare Wrenn N2 which has lost its original triang type couplings to which I would like to fit a set of PECO/Doublo couplings so it can pull my collection od Hornby Dublo wagons. I recall my original N2 had a conversion pack so I know it is possible but that is long gone so I am trying to collect the bits I need and just want some confirmation that I am heading in the right direction and advice on components. The original triang front coupling was held on by a solid brass shouldered rivet, Am I right in that all I need to do is get one of the push on plastic couplings to clip around the shoulder. If yes would this be the straight or cranked type? However, the pony truck is presenting some a problems as follows: I have recently purchased a conversion back which contains a self tapping screw, brass collar and straight coupling. I know it will fit the R1 but I do not know if this is correct for the N2. - will I need to get a cranked coupling?The original lug that he;d the origina; triang coupling is getting in the way, so will need to be removed, but what is the best option. Do I file the lug down flush with the bracket which sticks out from the back of the pony truck or do I simply cut the bracket off?Having tried to self tapping screw into the hole in the pony truck I find that it is so tight that I risk damaging the head or shearing the screw. Should I therefore try to obtain a brass coupling revit (of which several are available on eBay) or simply open out the hole in the pony truck slightly?If using the rivit what size should I get or if using the self tapper can someone suggest a size of drill (I guessing that it would be the tapping size for the pony truck screw but this seems larger.Many thanks for any help you can give.

I've been waiting eight years for the Kernow GWR steam railmotors!

See Sams Trains review at around 21 minutes through just ignor the keeper plate removal if you just want to get the body off. Only thing is be ready with the pause as he speeds up the camera while doing this.

Many thanks all and especially to LT&ST for pointing out the typo. All corrected now However, looking at the model again has reminded me I really should get around to making the bonet at some point!

Would deforming acetate explain why the painted curtains in my two short triang MK 1 restaurant cars do not line up with the windows and the printed toilet window frames in the Wrenn pullmans from the 1970s also do not line up?

@GMD, As all the models were uploaded to Shapeways for printing, I have made most available for sale through them. Sadly the rules of this forum does not allow me to mention the name of the shop or post a link. joy. Only thing is since Brexit, it import handling charges included within the delivery charges have increased the prices dramatically.

Just had a VERY nerve racking experience with my Rapedo Lion trying to get the tender body off. One thing to avoid is make sure your model is not really cold as plastic can get brittle as I have discovered with some models.

Postage rates are a bit of a strange affair based not only on the weight of a package but its size which both fall into certain bands. As a result you can sometimes send multiple items for the price of one unless the package size or weight crosses over one of these bands, then the price jumps. I recently had fun assembling a standard 0-4-0 chassis that a seller had dismantled so it fitted in a flat box no more than around 15mm deep, just to stop it jumping into the next threshold!