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37lover

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Everything posted by 37lover

  1. JJ, No, sorry but not so easy. Did you try and change your email address? I can change my name, telephone number but it will not let me change the email address. I did try this before posting.
  2. Can anyone please advise how to change the email address assigned to your member profile? I have sent a question to Hornby but have since realised someone may already have managed to make the change.
  3. This question has been asked many times in the past and there are several responses. Personally I get upset with anyone who states it "must be", or " has to be". However, I think everyone will agree that the supporting framework is key and needs to be rigid. My own layout framework, in a dedicated heated & insulated room in the garage, is topped with 12mm MDF with a layer of Builder Merchant fibreboard glued over that.
  4. JJ, As others have said it is almost certainly a classic scam. Sorry to say this but if your Security software blocks something and tells you it is dangerous why on earth did you continue? If anything similar occurs why don't you post a thread and wait for advice before continuing, let's hope you have not suffered any future problems.
  5. keithp, Did you not see the existing thread on this topic!
  6. Perhaps a Mod will consider moving this thread to the longer running thread on the Hush Hush. Mod note - we no longer have the facility to move individual posts onto another thread without a laborious copy and paste by proxy routine, which is less than satisfactory. We can move whole topics into a different section or retitle them but not tag them onto the end of an existing thread.
  7. David_watts1, 4 @ £200! I wish I could afford to spend that sort of money over such a short time.
  8. 96Raf, I suspect the "members" might be a bit overscale [too wide] but that's a great bit of lateral thinking and for the price certainly worth considering. Thanks for posting. I wait with bated breath for other suggestions.
  9. 37lover

    R2296

    JsionyRN, I do not have this model but after doing a quick search on the internet no listings state it has a DCC socket; the closest is "DCC compatible" which I always have interpreted as fitting a socket or hard wiring a decoder should work.
  10. ColinB, I think you may have confused the OP with too many references to DC, some should be DCC!
  11. I wouldn't bother with the sand but it would certainly give a textured finish resembling a gravel track; you would need very fine sand otherwise it will look too rough, no need for sand if you are laying tarmac roads - these are actually quite smooth - apart from potholes! If a DIY store is nearby why don't you go get some "tester" pots? I would recommend several shades of mid/dark grey [but not black!] and once you've decided on the base colour to apply patches of some of the other shades using a "dry" brush technique.
  12. itydog, You do NOT wire the additional picks directly to the Ringfield motor, you need to add them to the existing live feeds going to the decoder, ensuring that you keep the polarity matched. If you have already managed to hard wire a decoder then adding the additional feeds should be a doddle!
  13. JJ, Over 2000 posts and you haven't heard of Stay Alives! There's a story there. SoT, I think that's a bit harsh to state there's no such thing as a "Stay Alive! Of course there is, there are several threads on this forum discussing them. However, your following text is a very good explanation that there is no need to fork out for inflated "proprietary" Stay Alives when, with a little bit of DIY skill. it is possible to buy the components and fabricate your own for a fraction of the price. I have fitted several to coach lighting but so far none to locos. I understand the "time" benefit with locos can be quite limited unless you use supercapacitors but even so fitting a Stay Alive can help overcome some short duration interruptions of power. Chrisaff will probably be along to give some technical advice.
  14. I recently asked a similar question about the "seasonal" use of Winter and was told, by Hornby, that Winter 2022 to them effectively covers the period 2021/2022, not the following year. As an aside I believe, at least in the UK, Winter 2021 starts December 2021 and runs to March 2022, but the actual dates vary between sources.
  15. 96Raf, At the risk of incurring the wrath of the Mods [you!] how is this not considered in breach of Rules #2
  16. ColinB, Hornby call the forthcoming period Dec 2021 to March 2022 the Winter 2022
  17. As a variation on Flashbang's suggestion, and something you may have thought of yourself, you could disconnect only a couple of droppers, test and then repeat as required until the fault is rectified. If you are lucky you may only need to remove a few rather than all.
  18. TFOCH, Given my own practical skill level, which is fairly decent, I would recommend glueing two layers both slightly wider and then cutting the chamfer through both layers using an inclined blade. I think it would be too difficult to align two pre-cut pieces, especially if you are thinking of cutting the chamfer before placing. Or even better cut the chamfer on the top piece only and use that as a cutting guide to trim the wider bottom layer [after glueing them both down].
  19. Jacob, As you have now seen there are many different opinions. My own view, with perhaps a biased academic background, is that a few drops of washing up liquid helps to reduce the surface tension but will have no effect on the eventual clarity. Just give it time. When I glued my ballast I used a 3 water and 1 PVA mix. I also gave the ballast a light mist spray of water a few minutes before applying the diluted pva mixture.
  20. Geejbee, I have a Hornby Class 55 TTS loco on pre-order and the forecast arrival is Winter 21/22, that has slipped from the Summer but isn't too far away now. Whether Hornby will be releasing a separate decoder, you can but hope.
  21. Trains. I believe concrete sleepers have a different surface profile as well as texture so it is very unlikely you will get a convincing "paint" job. But there's the problem, who are you trying to "deceive". You will always know they were originally timber, a visitor viewing your layout may not spot the difference. You are asking a question that is too subjective and really it only matters to you. Try painting some and see what you think. Note: Chris beat me to it again.
  22. XYZ, It was removed well before the "current" website and although my memory isn't too great I believe the reasoning would give very, very little chance of it coming back. Edit: Chrissaf gave a better & quicker answer
  23. I see what you mean; that is awful. I am tempted to load pictures of my lighting installation to a rake of Torquay Pullmans (each with a bridge rectifier, on/off switch, a strip of leds, and a 4700 uf capacitor) to show Hornby how it could be done!
  24. Hi Andy_Mac, Is there any chance you can post a picture showing why the elec cap spoils it? Thanks in anticipation
  25. atom3624, "would like to see more photos of the actual layout" We used to have a dedicated thread for showing layouts, Raf96 and JJ have both started separate threads to show progress with their layouts but I for one have refrained from posting updates to my layout whilst Hornby work [allegedly] to restore the historical photographs. I quote from the Forum welcome.... You might notice certain features missing, like historical images for example - rest assured that it will not be for long! We will keep you updated as things progress. Unfortunately "updates" seem as rare as "progress".
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