Flashbang

Hi A DCC Bus pair needs to be able to return a fault current within a millisecond to the base or booster unit. Normally 32/0.2mm or 1.5mm2 solid wire is about the minimum to be used. They of course also need to be able to supply full current to the rails as provided by the base/booster unit. Only use Solid wire on permanent layouts and on any portable layout always use flexible wire. Droppers (Bus to rail) wire size then 16/0.2mm is the recommended dropper wire size, but 7/0.2mm can also be used, but only if every section of track has a dropper and the droppers overall length is kept to a maximum of around 500mm. Always try and use the same colour insulation for both bus wires and droppers, as then there is far less chance of a cross connection. All outside rails need to have the same coloured dropper connecting rails to bus wire and the other chosen colour dropper and bus wire connections for all the inner rails. The very best connection is a twisted and soldered one. But there are other methods including Screw Terminal blocks, Scotchlock connectors of the correct size for the wires. Warning... using the wrong size Scotchlock connector can result in a High Resistance connection or worse a broken (Cut through) wire. Even Wago style 221 blocks are useful.

Hi Not all decoders can be read! You can write to them ok though. If you want to reset the decoder back to its default settings including address number to 3 then write to CV8 a value of 8. Occasionally you may have to undertake this more than once! This should reset it. However reference to the locos manual should confirm the reset CV but normally its CV8/8. As to what number of pins the decoder has, if the leaflet doesn't advise then remove the body or tender (if the decoder is in the tender) and look! You wont see the make usually but the number of pins should be visible. I would prior to undertaking any decoder alterations, thoroughly clean the programming tracks rails, then clean the locos wheel rims and the inside faces of the wheels where any wheel wipers rub. Also ensure the wipers remain in continual contact with each wheel when the wheel is moved slightly across the loco.

Thanks Guys. I now have lost all confidence in the IT Company Hornby have employed for their web site upgrade. IMO it is a total disaster with no corrections or Beta testing. For a major company like Hornby, they have employed a seriously poor IT company for their upgrade, which has taken so far almost 5 weeks to work semi correctly, yet alone iron out any issues! No Beta testing with a group of former users. No control over what is or is not permitted. No previous permissions transferred. Over all, disgraceful and for a major on line retailer I'm so disappointed.

Replied and said I hadn't done anything since my previous post but it was now showing correctly. I included a test image as well to see what would happen. The whole post has disappeared, so I'm assuming direct image posting is now no longer permitted! Obviously previous privileges have not been copied over!

Hi Chris I've just logged in and it is now showing. I haven't done anything since my post earlier when I deleted the original and uploaded it again. Then it wasn't showing. Test image placement below...

In addition I would also carry out the following... Clean all wheel rims. Clean rear of wheels where the wipers rub. Ensure the wipers remain in light but continual contact with the wheels when the wheel se of an axle is moved side to side. Look for possible loose wires where they are attached to the motor and any PCB or the decoder socket. Finally ensure all rail tops are spotlessly clean too. Use a track rubber and if possible follow up with wipe over using a lint free cloth dampened with a little Isopropanol Alcohol (known as IPA) of the 99.9% type.

Hi Chris My Avatar was still present, so deleted it and reloaded it, then clicked "Save". Seems to try and save but then gives up after a second. Still not showing! If privileges have been copied over correctly, I have been allowed to publish images without anyone's approval.

Welcome back Hornby Forum! I had to update my password and details and I included the avatar image, but Hornby web site seems to reject it or at least not display the Avatar - Its by no means over sized either. All that happens is I add the Image then click Save, but the timing icon fails after a few seconds!!

Are you serious in stating "only use Hornby decoders in modern Hornby locos"?? The basic decoder produced is far from good. The TTS is frequently shown as failing for unknown reasons. Other makes that are available offer far, far better loco motor control than the basic H one does. The only exception is the Sapphire which is a reasonably good allrounder. Yet in your last paragraph you intimate that Zimo or Train O matic are better. Contradiction surely?

Hi Look very carefully at the connector pin and contact fingers where the tender connects to the loco. If one is bent it is possible for it to then touch the otehr connection and cause a short circuit as you are seeing.

If you can, try arranging the wiring for each motor to come directly from the lever or the operating switch i.e. two wires on each lever/switch connection. Rather then linking first motor to the second and only using two feed wires from the lever or switches. Use a terminal block connector if need be to aid the wiring. Ideally try to keep as near as possibly the four feed wires to all roughly the same length. Next ensure the feed wires to each motor are at least 16/0.2mm wire, as too should be the wire coming from the CDU positive output to the first lever or switch and linking onto all other point levers/switches, if there are others. Assuming out on the layout you have linked the motors returns onto one wire that then runs back the the CDU negative output terminal, ensure that wire is capable of carrying the current of two (or more) motors all moving at once. 16/0.2mm is the very minimum and better if a larger size of return wire is used. e.g. 24/0.2mm or even 32/0.2mm where multi motors all move at once - Route setting by diode matrix. 90% of solenoid motor failures are caused by too smaller wire size being used. The rest are frequently due to poorly fitted motors. BTW.... A CDU is not a good option with the Hornby R044 black point lever, due to its very old design of double pulse switching. However a CDU is ok with all other passing contact levers etc such as the PL26

Just as a note.... The DCC Concepts SS point motors are not solinoids. They are Stepper motor operated and need a special control board to enable them to work. 😀

It really should be noted that TTS are not the only sound decoders available. OK others may be far more expensive, but in the end you get exactly what you pay for! Sounds, Speaker output and motor controls.

I would eBay each 12 month complete series. Sell for £1 and P & P of at least £12. This is what I have done with old RM mags and Hornby ones too. But they need to be in mint condition and a full years worth of series. Use a courier (such as Hermes or any other) to collect from them from your home and delivery to the buyer. If you can't sell them then they go to the local MR club or tip!

Its very possible the locos wheels are touching the metal rails at the frog where they are closest. This is quite a common problem. Ideally you need to check all the wheels on the loco are set to the correct Back to Back (B2) distance. I have found several brand new loco with incorrectly set wheels out of their boxes. Special gauges are available for checking this and are sold by good model shops or the Double O Gauge Association where their Intermediate Standard B2B gauge is needed, A quick fix to prove its the wheels bridging the rails is to paint the metal rail surface with nail varnish for about 1.0mm from the plastic frog area painting the varnish on the metal rail tops. Note the varnish wont last long! If it cures the problem, consider fitting Insulated Rail Joiners (Nylon Fishplates) in place of the metal ones. fitting them onto the two Vee rail ends of the problem point. Then depending on how the layout is configured, you may have to add two new rail feeds after the IRJs . This problem is shown here.... http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Page-1.html#problems Oh BTW ensure you get permission to use the Nail Varnish! 😬

You say the wheel treads and backs of wheels are spotlessly clean. Double check the rail tops are spotlessly clean and also that the track is it laid flat. Dirty or uneven track will be a major issue to a small number of wheels on a 0-6-0 loco like the Terrier. You say you have any other DCC Fitted locos which run correctly but are these with similar 0-6-0 wheel arrangements or even smaller 0-4-0 types? Moving to a more upmarket make of decoder may well give improved running and it will certainly give far more CV adjustments to help with running issues assuming the existing decoder is the basic Hornby one? Also assuming your DCC system can adjust CVs!

In addition to the excellent reply posted above by RAF96 re CV2 value (I was writing all that and he beat me to it! 😀 ) I would start by resetting the decoder to its default settings including address number to 3. This is usually via CV8 entering a value of 8, but do check with the decoder manufacturers leaflet to ensure its CV8/8. Then set the address number to whatever is required, then carry out the CV2 value settings. Use speed steps 28 or 128 and set CV2 value so as the loco just moves at speed step 1. Once you have CV2 set up, set CV5 for the top speed needed, then set CV6 to approx. half of the value set in CV5. i.e. CV6 is at 110 so set CV5 value between 55 to 60. All the above assumes your DCC system allows CV alterations and the loco decoder supports these CV settings. Not all do! 😮

Tried to edit my post but the option has gone!... My last line needed more detail in it... Only direct actioning of CV29 value will turn on DC operation, but then sounds will not play when on DC power.(they will of course still work on DCC) 😬

Hi According to the TTS manual 2019 Britannia loco for example, it is supplied new with DC operation turned Off as CV29 is 2. I assume this applies across the range? but I haven't looked at other TTS manuals to prove or disprove this. Therefore altering the address number will not cause a change in CV29 value from 2. Only direct actioning of CV29 value will turn on DC operation, but then sounds will not play.

My 'rule of thumb' is where any older type of motor is used, and more importantly it runs 100% on DC power, is to always fit a "Quality" make of decoder. e.g. Lenz Standard or Silver or Zimo are excellent makes and offer far improved motor control including Bemf regulation which improves motor control. Basically the better the decoder the better the motor performance

Just what is all that meant to mean? "Slaving - Power and data lines together in lieu when programming"? Please keep replies simple to understand. Many on here have basic train sets and a DCC console and accessory decoder(s) for accessory operation. I feel you may mean ....Use an external suitable power supply for the ESU Accessory decoders power? But its very unclear! From memory ... The ESU accessory decoder offers the options of,,, A) Using the DCC power to operate its connected accessories and receive the DCC data. Or B) Use an external power supply to operate the accessories and just use the DCC data to operate the decoder outputs as required.

Hi I am a PA2 user and there is no need to do anything other than input the correct address number once the "Loco" button has been selected to control the loco. Setting address to anything from 1 to 9999 will have no effect on the decoders ability to work on DC that's controlled by CV29. Note the TTS decoder is not one of the best all round sound decoders available and has a rather lot of "quirks". But its OK and serves a low budget use. If you're unable to reset to default settings including address back to 3 or address the decoder to a new number then I try doing it on the main instead of the programming track, as that then uses full power to programme unlike the programming track where a low current is used. However, always as a precaution remove all other locos form the main tracks before undertaking a reset or programming address etc. Better safe than have all locos reprogrammed!

I have to say the mention in some posts to a so called "DC Bypass plug" is very misleading IMO! DC Bypass? Where is the DC going if its being bypassed when the plug is fitted? It would be far, far better IMO to refer to the actual DCC Blanking Plug (correct name - Google it!) as a "DC Only Operation plug" when referenced in replies and basic information to new/novice DCC users! If the "DC only operation plug" is in place, the loco is DC operation only (DCC Ready). Once it is removed from the locos PCB socket the loco will no longer operate on any system DC or DCC! When it is replaced by the correct type of DCC Decoder (Note it is not a Chip - as frequently those come from the fish & chip shop and are often with Salt and Vinegar added) the loco becomes DCC Fitted and can run on DCC powered rails. Also, so long as CV29 values haven't been adjusted, the the loco will run on DC powered rails too. Note. if a sound decoder is fitted (which includes all Motor and Function controls) only one or two basic sounds will play while the loco is operated on DC. If your DCC system allows all Functions F0 to F28 to be operated, then all available sounds will play as required.

Correct RAF96 😀 That is exactly why I suggested to the OP to remove the power section track and temporarily power the layout by holding or clipping the two feed wires to the rails, in my reply on page 3. 😎

I appreciate some comments I made here may not seem necessary. But there was IMO considerable confusion around how the layout was being feed, whether point clips were used etc. This has now been cleared up by the OP reply - Thank you SNB for that. 😉 E0 is indeed a full short circuit/overload. My initial way forward and how I would test now would be ... Remove the power track section and all the point clips (2 per point). Take the two track feed wires that were previously in the power track section (now removed, even if it leaves a gap in the track) and temporarily place the two stripped ends of wire onto the rails somewhere convenient. Hold them onto the rail tops or sides - use Bulldog clips/Crocodile clips or even two sprung clothes pegs if need be or something similar to act as temporary clamps holding the two wires to the two rails. Power up the Select. Does it now work correctly? If it does, power down and then add one point at a time two point clips then power up to check all is still correct. If it is OK move onto the next point and refit those two clips and retest, repeat one point at a time until all points have their clips refitted. These clips are simple to fit items. Assuming the layout is still working correctly then the problem is with the power track section. But if the E0 appears at any stage its caused by something else. TBH I've not heard of a DC power track with the internal capacitor still fitted causing a full short circuit. It usually just causes very poor running. But there is always a first for everything 😮