Jimbo1707820979

David, you raise some very valid points. It should not be necessary for a prospective buyer to have to go rooting around for product details (even if as M-R says, not everybody needs them). And the point you raise about quantity discount is also a good one --- of which dealers may be well aware.

@RDS Thankyou. That is really useful to know. I will use a fibre pen or IPA in future. I was puzzled by the problem.

How does it work exactly ? Is it used instead of conventional solder ? Sometimes I have a problem when the solder does not "pool" but splits into separate little balls.

Thanks, Chris. The new controller will only be connected to the TT. So I presume I can still keep the main track live simultaneously and have loco(s) running on it with a separate controller ?

Come on, John. We're aching to see some photos of your big layout and Helix. Also some of the very rare locos that I know you have collected. Pretty please !! Or get one of those young nippers to help ?

Because of the way my new layout is wired and the great distance between the TT and the Controller it seems impractical to wire things according to the Hornby instructions. So I propose to use a separate controller for the TT, taking very great care to switch off power to the track after the loco is driven onto the TT. Will this cause any problems ? I also plan not to use the Hornby Switch R046 or the rail connectors supplied with the set. The separate controller will be connected directly to the turntable. Am I asking for trouble ?

Thanks, RT. I found the Mazak weights fairly easy to cut/file so I am pressing on with fitting the originals as they are nice and heavy. (Well, HEAVY anyway).

You're right, Al. I cut a largish section off with a mini-hacksaw. Followed by a lot of filing. Getting there !

No wonder the tender on my new Lima Crab would not close ! Someone had been messing around and supplied me with 2 identical weights. They shoud be different to fit. So out with the file (or grinder).

Thanks for the tip, Temporary Frog, I have some neo magnets which are pretty heavy and may fit. But would the magnetism be harmful to the motor ? 🤔

Lovely model, M-R. Looks brand new ! I have just received my Lima Crab 13000 in Crimson. Rather puzzled by the strangely shaped weights in the tender, whose cover was loose and not possible to fit over the weights, of a greyish material which I assume is the dreaded MAZAK ! (I had a Jaguar XK120 with chromed mazak rear-light plinths which eventually showed pit marks. Also on my XK150 S. Luckily gunmetal 😀 repros were available, so that fixed the problem, after chroming). Anyway, back to the Crab. It runs very strongly, tender drive. So the weights consigned to the Spares Box. Well pleased now.

Taken a bit of a gamble and ordered a Lima Crab in LMS Crimson livery. Let's hope the dreaded internal weights are not causing the body to rub against the wheels ! I hope I don't have to moan on here later. 😛

The moderation by the Moderators is much appreciated. A lot of hard work. Thankyou all.

Very poor marketing from Hornby, then. I hope Simon will improve things. Every Sales Director should have a sign on his wall "We will make it as EASY as possible for our customers to buy from us ." And abide by it ! And make the customer feel that he is their personal representative in the company.

Huwsie, have you considered building a wooden viaduct ? Some beautiful examples on Wiki. A lot of fun putting the wooden spars together, too. You may remember I made one using the wooden struts from a discarded sun umbrella. Still giving good service.

I, for one, would miss JJ's contributions which I am sure are posted with good intention. But let's hope that talk of a formal warning doesn't have to continue further. I probably should have merited a good scoldin' myself after some of the boo-boos I've made on the forum. So let us all light a joss-stick to Buddha and file this topic away. 😇

I'm from the U. K. like nearly the most of us here The part of your text that I've highlighted is completely wrong and misleading. Oh dear ! I think the Border Force will be knocking on your door soon, Jimy ! So pretend not to be in.

Very nice to hear, GWR. Thankyou. Brightened up my lonely day.

Go ahead. We've plenty of expertise to help. (excluding myself 😢, of course. 😆)

Yes, we missed you. Did you take a long ride on the Chattanooga Choochoo ?

It's best practice to use only NEW rail joiners.anyway. Unless you are really stuck for spares. 😛

What is the best temperature setting for the iron ?

As a complete beginner I started off with a DCC set including "Kenilworth Castle". Never a really good runner. Added a few DCC locos, some converted by my local delaler and things ran reasonably. However, there were older models that I fancied which could not be converted easily. Also the cost element made itself felt. After learning DC not as sensitive to dirt etc. as DCC, I started collecting DC locos, including Lima, for which I have a great respect as to Value-for -money. Being deaf, I don't get the sound benefits of DCC but as I now have over 35 locos I am sticking to having part of my layout as digital with analogue lines for the other 80 + DC locos. So I am covering my bets both ways but prefer the complete simplicity of DC. Most mornings I press the remote to fire up the analog trains already on the tracks and have things running before I can put my socks on ! Using H&M controllers ensures a good start to the day. 😀

@ LC&DR I totally agree with you. There is also the "breaking the ice" factor and making welcome the fans whose mother language is not English. The message should not be "Shout loud enough in English and they will understand you" 😆

Looks excellent, just like the real thing. A good notion to put vegetation in the cliffs. I must try that.