ColinB

Well the wheels don't help they have a thinner flange but the main issue is the bolt they halved the diameter. Replaced it with the older bolt and it runs much better. Also I found increasing the back to back spacing on the rear bogie by about 1 mm seems to fix it completely. I tried the back to back before, but I think the bolt is the major culprit. I don't what you do about that?

It is either the bogie bolt or the wheels, the replacement bogie works perfectly. I will leave it to run for half and hour then I will start looking for differences on the bogie. My first impression is the bolt may be too thin but I will compare once it has finished running.

I have found a decoder in another loco that I fitted and surprise surprise my one derails, only occasionally. I have 3 of these (yes I know it is excessive, I built most from bits after I had to fix one) and they all work perfectly. I have checked the gauging and that measures the same as the others. I have a relatively new one R3404 which I bought new and that seems to be exactly the same as R30271 except it is black rather than red and that runs perfectly. It might be the wheels on the bogie. I have a spare bogie with different wheels, I will see if that makes a difference. As far as I can tell LT&SR_NSE it all looks the same as R3404. I will change the bogie and let you know.

I must admit I have a few of the old ones of these, I haven't got round to fitting a decoder to this one yet. Usually they are ok, but I suppose a lot depends on your layout. I notice on mine the steps are an added extra (on the old ones they were pre fitted) , so have you added them and is it possible the bogie hits them on curves. Back to back spacing on the bogie is the favorite, it could be it gets stuck on the chassis. My decoder comes soon, I will try my one out to see if there is an issue.

I honestly don't know why so many people get so twitchy over YouTubers, they are there, it is no worse than buying a magazine, except in many cases the magazine generally never gives bad reviews. Many of the cars I worked on had very favorable reviews in the motoring press which compared with what I was testing, amazed me, 3 months later when the public buys it we are in panic mode. I bought my latest HST on a review from a YouTuber, I wanted to know if the fans were driven and fortunately the reviewer covered it very well. Surprisingly that information was not in the technical spec of the loco on the Hornby site. Similarly I was thinking of buying Kernow's steam based coach, at least two reviewers commented that getting the body off to fit a decoder was difficult. In fact Sam was probably the least negative of the two, the other one pointed out that one part you need to remove was glued on. Surprisingly these things are important, if you are going to attack a £200 loco it is nice to know how to do it properly seeing as most of the instructions supplied have a habit of missing bits out. YouTube is like any other sort of media you watch it and make your own opinion that is what I definitely do. I suppose come to think of it same could be said of this site and RMWeb.

I watched that clip from charlie, I don't think Hattons have been operating like that for a long time. Back in the late 80s and 90s when there were huge discounts around then yes but of late no not really. What I think killed them off is Hornby and its tier system and the loss of the Bachmann business. Then they moved to an industrial estate giving them no real identity. I remember when they lost all those pre orders thinking how will they survive, they must have lost thousands over that. I had at least 4 pre orders with them and then is something about phycology, if you pre order an item you don't seem to worry about the cost, whereas if you buy it in the shop you do. I did think at the time "how are they making a profit". Yes their specials made them some but they didn't make enough.

I know on all mine I moved the decoder to the tender, there isn't much room in the loco for anything plus I broke one set of valve gear trying to get it in the loco. The big issue is because they changed the tender fitting you cannot use a later tender base.

I think you can do that on Paypal, the only issue probably is there is a time limit on PayPal so in a lot of cases where you wait 2 years or more, PayPal will have cancelled the transaction.

Actually DarkRedCape the 21 pin is much easier circuit board to solder to. You can buy some of them as spare parts ( I fitted one in a loco I converted), it is a easier task to fit. It fits on the same posts as the 8 pin variety, so basically it is just a change of part and documentation which obviously they are only just getting round to. So has it got firebox flicker?

They do but it is not obvious. On the checkout menu there is a button "other ways to pay", it then gets displayed. You probably missed it as would I, if I wasn't particularly looking for it.

So is it a retooled version or just a rerun of the previous model?

That has got to be the most amazing answer I have seen, so all of this is to prevent an action that most of the user community will never use and if anyone wanted to do that I am sure that there are tools around that can do that. Thanks for the info though.

I don't know what the reset code really does, other than something you enter when the app asks for it. Probably something to do with the bluetooth communications and pairing between nodes. It will do nothing to the profile loaded and nothing to any of the CVs stored. The only way to change the profile is to download a new one and wait 20 minutes for it to do it. Setting CV8 to 8 will reset the decoder as with any other decoder other than a LaisDCC. As you gather from my posts I consider it to be an issue that needs fixing.

No, thirdline it shouldn't, just takes the decoder out of the app. There again that is another reason for unlinking it and deleting it with the loco not on the track, because if it is not being powered the app can't do anything to the decoder. Even so, even if it was powered then it won't do that. I don't know why the device comes up as resettable and I suspect nobody else does except the person who wrote the code, otherwise they would have fixed it ages ago. The big issue is the person who wrote this didn't understand how some of us would use it.

The issue you have with that is as in my case, loaded the profile for the device set it to DCC, the loco is now either in its box or on the main railway. I don't need the bluetooth setup anymore, so I want to delete it, if I want to use it again I would power it up and do a rescan and then load everything again. I currently have 5 HM7000s probably once I have finished (finances permitting) I will probably have well over 20, so it will probably start to have issues on the smartphone screen. According to your description if I do a rescan, then I would get a resettable condition. As to the three, normally what you would do is have a pop up box that explains what the consequences will be with a yes/no or confirm/cancel option. It sounds like deleting the App and reloading it wasn't such a silly idea. Anyway now I know, thanks for the info.

That explains a lot. Ok why 3 times?

Thanks 96RAF for the advice, I eventually figured that out and did manage to delete one of them. The "Unlink and Delete Device" is the one that never seemed to work always coming up with an error. Unfortunately the easiest solution is delete the whole App and reload it, that way you delete everything. For people like me that only use the App to load profiles, having a screen full of obsolete devices just causes confusion, but then perhaps that is just me.

Thank you Daedalus for your support, I remember it was you that pointed me in the right direction. I thought the same but I honestly am getting fed up arguing. I am tending to now take the view that I know how fix most things and if you don't want my advice then so be it. Yesterday I was trying to delete devices that I no longer use, I imagine if you find the right combination in the menus then you can do it, but buttons that indicate delete don't seem to work. The App works well enough for what I want to do so I suppose that is it.

Thanks for explaining that SteveM6

So SteveM6 do you get that screen if the device displays as resettable? I must admit I never noticed I was more interested in fixing the error. 96RAF it uses the full address to reset. The next question is, if it is in the App why does Hornby waste their time sending it to you.

I must admit I find it difficult to believe it is the loco but you never know. If it wasn't a HM7000 it could be the decoder not sitting flat on the socket and the two loudspeaker pins not connecting properly, but with the HM7000 it connects via its own connector. I suppose if there is a short between pins on the 21 way socket it might cause issues. If the motor is drawing too much current it might cause issues but these locos are usually pretty good. I have used TTS on mine (rewired for 21 pin) and they work perfectly, HM7000 is supposed to have a higher current limit so should be ok.

I was playing around with the app just now and I suddenly remembered why I deleted the App and reinstalled it. The delete function although it sort of works is not that brilliant. If you want to get rid of all your scanned devices, you can do it but it is not that easy, hence the delete App and reinstall.

Ok then SteveM6 if the App displays it (which I must admit I have never noticed) why does the App do nothing with it. Either way it makes no difference, hopefully I won't run into the issue again and if somebody has the same issue they can follow your advice.

The HMDCC doesn't give you the resettable code, that comes directly from Hornby via an email. As to pairing, I didn't mention using anything other than the Hornby app. Perhaps a better answer would be as to why it comes up as resettable in the first place, then there wouldn't be any need for all this.

Sorry SteveM6 I doubt it can do that. If you use the wrong reset code it will just come up with an error. I doubt non technical people would do it anyway. The Bluetooth search tool is pretty obvious, it comes up with the name of the node, I think when I did it, it was pretty obvious it was the HM7000 node. You can only use the Hornby App to link, the search tool is only useful for trying to get the Reset code, which it appears it appears is its Bluetooth node address. You only need to use it if you don't have the reset code. For a start the App should be doing this anyway, with me it was doing it on a brand new device and if I remember rightly it took many attempts to get it to work properly.