William1707821657

How did you manage to do that 7 times? I pressed the post button 7 times because I thought my phone froze and I assumed by one click it would take I'm a very patient person just not good with phones haha

Thanks again lads for your wonderful reply's , I think Im just stuck in a mindset where I want the paint finish to be baby smooth with no issues , like what I thought I saw on build videos when people brush paint i always thought they were as smooth as I wanted mine to be , I think it's just not possible for the finish to look 100% perfect just by thinning the paint down a tad and to get it to near airbrush quality you would want other tools to assist you like the plastic wool mentioned earlier

That's the airbrush I'm getting! in terms of the persevere of humbrol and revell is that for brushpainting many thanks mate

My apologees accidentally posted the same comments a few times! 🤔

Thanks for the reply I use a 2cm wide brush for my larger areas on my models like wings etc and a pointer brush with smaller parts

Thank you for your reply I'm well aware of the two products and as I brushpaint I use model colour with their thinner medium

Thank you guys so much for the comments I luckily have an airbrush compressor however not an airbrush , the thing is I'm using Vallejo model colour I really like it , even more so with their thinner and a drop of water from the tap , I tend to put my first coat on thinned which probably isn't the best idea and weakens the overall strength of the paintwork , problem I'm having is with the bf109 I masked the top for the camoflauge on my first attempt I painted it on peeled the tape and there was a thick buildup of paint on the edges , so I wiped it down with a warm cotton bud and then tried again , attempt number 2 went better with some bits of lint in the paintwork but I notice that quite a bit when brushpainting peeled it and as I masked a little higher there's a line of unpainted bodywork and also the paint bled through the tape and left messy bits! I just want to give up on it and call it another model that I have botched , doesn't help that I'm missing the tail wheel either

I'm not sure why this happens but every time I attempt a model , I always mess it up in one way or another which then leads me to abandoning it , it's to the point where I despise brushpainting because that seems to be the culprit to my problems , either the paint goes on really well , like vallejos (SOMETIMES) , and with other paints it's hit or miss with revells , I'm not saying it of beginner quality like what are first models looked like but it's a thing that keeps really annoying me , and I am a bit of a perfectionist , which I guess is the problem , the other annoying thing is that i have done the hobby for 4 years and I'm not sure why I haven't given up already , my mate says just to go to an airbrush as it's apparently easier to learn and considering one of the only models I have finished has been a puma which I airbrushed and if I'm honest I would much rather learn how to operate an airbrush because of how much better my models look for a start and the paint looks nicer anyway

Ok so carrying on from the last one , im using vallejos model colour range of paints which are naturally quite thick after having experience with thinning with either humbrol thinners or water you instantly notice a physical change of the properties in the paint off example it becomes more runny and easier to paint with , but since I have moved to Vallejo after trying their thinner it just does t seem to change any of those properties like water or humbrol acrylic thinner would and its odd as there is some sort of difference from when the paint has applied like for example it will go on you will see strokes but once it dries it self levels , only thing I'm noticing is that the overall wateryness of the paint doesn't change much

my apologees i should have mentioned im using model colour , it seems like the thinner isnt like normal thinners where you put a couple drops in and it is more liquidy like water , but vallejo thinner seems to keep a similiar thickness , its weird , i do 3 drops of thinner its too runny and tends to pool on raised details , 1 drop doesnt seem enough as it doesnt change the way it flows like for say when you thin something with water. I am new to vallejo so go easy haha

So to add another discussion to my long dynasty and of queries I have a question in Vallejo thinner medium , after doing a test run by simply doing a ratio of 1:1 I noticed that the paint wasn't really "thinned" to as I remember for example when you thin with humbrol acrylic thinners it's like water and makes the paint more fluid , but I'm noticing that isnt happening with Vallejo thinner and I was hoping somebody could shed some light. many thanks the person who puts a lot of stuff on the discussion

Ok guys well thank you very much for the reply's , the last question I have which will probably stop me obsessing over it and that is , is it normal for acrylics to do this

thank you very much for your reply

ill definitley get on that , i also notice small little pits on the paintjob which is what i thought was dry pigment but it might be stuff on the brush , is there a solution to this and make sure my finished are 100% paint only and no little specks in the finish , or is this just something you have to put up with

I just have a question regarding Vallejos paint , I know this isnt really the best place as this is ideally for humbrol but i will still ask , so i tested my new brushes and vallejo model colour paint and on a clean plastic spoon , i thinned the paint with a ratio of 2:3 and began to brush it on and i noticed in the paintwork there are small particles of i dont know what , the water was clean and the brush was definitley clean , i dont know what this is or if this is normal for vallejo paint , if anybody could awnser that would be greatly appreciated.

After having second thoughts of what i originaly thought was dry pigment in the vallejo paint ,i actually noticed its also happening with my humbrol paint , so i came to the conclusion that its just small contaminents , is this something i just have to put up with when i brush paint or is there a fix

I did just simply order them online off ebay , i heard stirring the paint should fix the issue or adding thinners once its been dropped onto the pallete , as it will all have to go eventually

Is there a fix to this issue? Like maybe stiring the paint more?

The image shows dark spots on the paintwork which my mate says is all bits of dried pigment where you haven't shaken the bottle it all adds up but is he correct? My brush is new and completely clean

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Invest in some white cotton gloves, do an ebay search for handling or jewellers gloves. They're as cheap as chips if you shop around. When handling a model (wearing a gloive!), hold it by the flat surfaces and not edges, try and avoid raised detail. The best primer I've come across by a country mile is Mr Surfacer. It's not cheap and you will need to invest in GS levelling thinner which is also not cheap. It comes in different grades, 500 is coarse and best for micro filling. 1000 or 1200 is good for matt finishes, 1500 is the finest and will give you an excellent base for gloss finishes. Thin it about 50/50 for airbrushing. It's difficult to brush successfully due to rapid curing. You can handle and add masking tape after 20-30 minutes. The only other problem is that almost all over the pumas sides have raised edges so it's really hard to handle the kit i have varnished so nothing should come off now baring in mind this is a kit that is made for a diorama so maybe that's what the detail is sharper

Invest in some white cotton gloves, do an ebay search for handling or jewellers gloves. They're as cheap as chips if you shop around. When handling a model (wearing a gloive!), hold it by the flat surfaces and not edges, try and avoid raised detail. The best primer I've come across by a country mile is Mr Surfacer. It's not cheap and you will need to invest in GS levelling thinner which is also not cheap. It comes in different grades, 500 is coarse and best for micro filling. 1000 or 1200 is good for matt finishes, 1500 is the finest and will give you an excellent base for gloss finishes. Thin it about 50/50 for airbrushing. It's difficult to brush successfully due to rapid curing. You can handle and add masking tape after 20-30 minutes. Thanks I'll take the cotton gloves into consideration but I doubt I'll pick up any mr surfacer as I use rattle cans and brushpaint

I agree that Vallejo primer is solid but don't forget that this Is on a tiny little piece of raised detail where there is hardly any primer on there and also paint , If I ever do handle my model i always hold them incredibly gently and try not to put much pressure on them but like i said , this is a tiny piece of raised detail and even the Vallejo primer comes off

Ok Ratch , i was a little confused there , I rarley excessivley handle my model unless it is finished and varnished , annoyingly i dont have the room for my models to be displayed on plynth and only have a small space , because i was wondering whats the point of doing all that detailing in for example the cockpit if i cant pick it up and look at it , would you say humbrols primer is a good and grippy primer as i found vallejo primer for airbrushing at least is very weak and that is because its a polyurethane based primer? , i should also mention that the axel and the bolts on the wheels were only coming off before i varnished the model down , yet i fear it could still happen

ok Ratch thank you for the reply , so what do i do if i want to admire the model ie holding it and looking at it , am i just not allowed to touch it?