William1707821657

so am i able to hold the model and look at it when im done? as the kit is finished but the paint is coming off when i admire it , should i just hold it at a spot where there are no raised bits?

Thank you very much for the reply paul I guess varnishes are only helpful for say if you accidentally drop the model but most importantly for washes , I can rest easy now

This is where i can think this discussion goes best , but i wanted to talk about what to do and is it normal if paint comes off when paint comes off areas like edges and rivets and tank track edges (on plastic tank tracks) for a long time i have noticed sometimes when handling some of my smaller kits like tanks , that the paint is gone in places like for example on my revell T-55 i painted the tracks with citadel black , and when i pick it up and look at it another time edges of the tracks , like where the pins would be would have aboslutley no paint on them whatsoever , another example is my revell puma , where the nuts on the wheel hubs have been stripped bare of vallejo airbrush primer and mig acrylic colours (i airbrushed this kit but not the T-55) i heard that this is caused by overhandling , so i touched up the nuts on the wheels and rivets on the body which where completley bare and varnished 3 coats of humbrol gloss spray and also some paint factory matte varnish , will the rivets paint come off again? im terribly sorry as im nearly on 100 posts but i guess that is the struggle when you have ocd and anxiety and they mix together with scale modelling haha , dont get me wrong i love the hobby to bits , but these are the little things i panic about. many thanks will

i will definitley try deionised water

ok ill give that a go , its really difficult though as im trying out vallejo as i have heard they are really great paints , and pretty much all my time in moddelling i have used humbrol and stuck by their side , my friend says and i quote "they are sh@#" in a conversation we had about them , and i do think that they got bad rep during the time the paints were being produced in china , it may have just been my brush wasnt very clean but i sure was noticing brush strokes even with water , but then again it doesnt actually do anything to the paint apart from literally making it thinner , when actual acrylic thinners have a retarder built in to make it more smooth so maybe i should just try that

I would like to know what you other modellers think is better , sable or taklon. I want to know as a friend said to me the reason im still getting brush strokes on my heinkel im restoring even when i have thinned the paint down is because of hard points in the brush , i have been using royal and langnickels golden taklon , and im thinking of trying out sable brushes as apparently the are softer and better for modelling

I completley agree mate , its only until today that i found out thinning paint with tap water is not a smart idea as it has chlorine in it , and that can mess up the paints gripping properties

I have recently been restoring an old hienkel I started on a while back , I painted the base colour humbrol acrylic 242 and the camo scheme in 241 acrylic in smooth even coats. coming back to it the paintwork needed lots of touch ups so on the 241 areas I painted thin even coats onto the kit , it's only now I noticed that there appears to be dark spots like where the brush hasn't even touched I thought initially it was just where I wasn't alternating between coats so I painted horizontally but let alone there they were and yes I thinned the paint with tap water , I'm just wondering if anybody knows if this is brushstrokes and if so that doesn't really make sense at all as I was gentle with the strokes and didn't push hard and I also thinned it down help would be much appreciated

possibly the reason it rubs off is because i never primed said surface , however i did wash the parts in warm soapy water , but i guess i did just let it soak and not properly scrub it

yes the starter set paints can be quite thick do you have any of the other problems mentioned?

im interested to know what the community think on humbrols acrylic paint , as im not sure if its me but i noticed that they feel quite sticky , bearing in mind i did leave them to dry fully , and also ( i know you shouldnt really do this but it was for testing on an old model) but you can literally rub the paint off and it sort of rolls up into little bits like when you might have some paint on your fingers and you rub it off with your thumb and index finger , very strange , i personally find them quite dodgy , anybody else notice similiar stuff , id be very interested to know what you think , as i feel like moving to vallejo

Ok thanks you guys turns out the reason why is because my primer isn't etch primer , another thing I'm facing is I have sprayed a coat of gloss on my exhausts which have to fit through a gap and when it goes through it still takes the paint and varnish off , what should I do?

Ok I won't scratch anymore! haha , one last question is , when you scratch primer why does it leave a shine and not take the primer off

Ok I won't scratch anymore! haha , one last question is , when you scratch primer why does it leave a shine and not take the primer off

i have noticed on larger primed surfaces like interiors and wings if i scratch as hard as possible it only leaves a mark but on small parts like pipes and engine mountings it comes off quite easily , could this be a priming issue?

thank you ratch for the reply

i will say thank you both for the replies

just a stupid question , with probably an easy awnser , and that is , is it normal for humbrol acrylic to be able to scratch off with a finger nail even if you prime

thank you all for the replies since reading Pauls comment i decided not to worry about things as much , also heres a slightly off topic question but my humbrol acrylic matte 78 when put on a pallete and thinned after a while it looks funny , like theres yellow streaking and stuff , almost like it has un stirred itself , any ideas?

I have been modelling for the long part of 2 years now , and I never used to care how my model looked , but the more I progressed and wanted a smooth finish on everything which I did eventually receive , but now it's the constant fear of messing the kit up and I can't stop worrying about the outcome , like I'll get all anxious if a part doesn't fit , or if there's gaps just wondering if you veterans could shed some light , many thanks will

hi david on the fuselage interior I was spraying at around 10-15cm away hence why I think it came out smooth , I should have mentioned I was spraying at the same distance for the floor

i have been working on revells ju88 kit and priming the fuselauge interior went fine but the next day i shook the can well and carried on spraying when i notcied it drying instantly on the plastic i put the can in warm water for 2 minutes and sprayed another part of the model (gondola interior) and spare engine covers and it was smooth , is this just a case of me not shaking it enough many thanks and stay safe. will

ok also how long should i leave humbrol acrylic paints to dry and how can si stop raised bits and a smooth finish i do thin but never got hold of ratios

i was restoring an old heinkel i made last year and decided to replace the landing flap with a new one from another kit , (exact same kit) i thought this would be easier , i noticed on the part of the landing flap that is closest to the fuselauge that there was a texture that i cant really explain , i didnt think much off it and proceeded to paint the kit in humbrol 242 with my brush , when the paint was all dry thismorning the colour helped show it through , revealing the horrible texture on the plastic , how do i deal with these kinds of problems and has anybodyelse experienced this with airfix?. I should mention im incredibly OCD and suffer from anxiety so when i see something that should be there i tend to panic haha