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I enjoyed watching the new series 1st episode and the top 10 special episode.

Is the wheel running true? Properly assembled within the tyre? Won't be the connecting rod as that's outside of the coupling rod on the crankpin. I'd be careful about bending the coupling rods, but maybe a very thin washer behind the rod might help if it's definitely rubbing?

@hobby yeah the repetition thing it threw me when I first joined this forum, not seen that on any other. I agree a "go to first unread post" would be handy.

Yes that's how I clean rolling stock wheels and unpowered loco wheels. Quick and easy, and works a treat :)

As in the photos I posted earlier on this thread :)

No the Köf isn't DCC ready, but it is possible to fit a decoder and stay-alive buffer within the body, no need for a trailing wagon. This video shows a coreless motor upgrade, addition of lights, decoder and power buffer.

@Whammo that's nothing! I mainly run N gauge including the same type as that Köf shunter you've bought, and an even smaller Swiss tractor also by Arnold. Properly engineered they are smooth reliable little units. Köf II, Köf III, and a typical British shunter The yellow Köf II here is by Minitrix and is factory fitted DCC :) This little beastie by Arnold is about 1 inch long over the couplings :) I also have examples of Z (1:220) on 6.5mm gauge and T (1:450) on 3mm gauge, though not for such tiny shunters as the Köf :)

@RDS I've used the Minitrix brass brush blocks in N gauge since the 70s. They are soft brass. In my experience (I have 300+ locos going right back to the 1960s) they don't cause wheel damage or traction tyre wear, but use them gently. There is no need to apply any pressure, just rest the loco on the brushes, turn up the power half way and gently rub the loco back and forth. I never let IPA or any potions anywhere near my locos :)

So it sounds like you've carried out the things I'd have done, ie. stripped the block down and cleaned the commutator (did you run a cocktail stick between the segments to clean the gaps?), cleaned and re-profiled the carbon brushes (I usually roll them in kitchen paper then gently file off the very end) and adjusted the spring tension. Also remember to clean out the brush holders. At this point I'd be trying the motor on just a low voltage with an ammeter in circuit, and turning the armature gear gently by fingers to feel if there is a dead coil and watching for excessive current. I usually work with N gauge motors so I don't know the typical current draw of a Hornby Ringfield but I would imagine it'll be 100-150mA ish with no load. If it tries to draw 500mA+ then could be a shorting coil. Motors can need a little bedding in of the brushes after first reassembly, but shouldn't be smoking.

Sit the Trix HO cleaning block on a short length of OO track and it will work for TT - the actual brushes are a suitable distance apart :)

Simple to google for model railway exhibition dates :) One of the well known lists for model railway shows is https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/exhibitions

In my opinion model locos don't need regular servicing and keeping a log, just observation of when the loco is in need of attention. I have 300+ N gauge locos and quite a few in various other scales from Z to G. Those on my exhibition layout roster get a brief test before a show, and if necessary a service based on any abnormal behaviour found. Some locos will go for years between needing any work done on them other than wheel cleaning. One danger with having a service schedule is the temptation to over-oil, which in itself is a cause of many problems the "professional" repairers encounter (and which I've observed when servicing locos for friends or for the public at a "loco doctor" table during an exhibition). A loco will tell you when and where it needs lubricating, for example high speed motor bearings will often start to "scream" when too dry.

@david I presume this is regarding an 00 or an N gauge model? Not TT:120. Also, I wonder if you might do better asking on a Dapol related forum rather than Hornby?

My pack of Tillig 08848 couplings to fit the old BTTB pocket just arrived from Germany. Very simple to exchange the old stirrup coupling head with the new Tillig type. I won't know how well the coupling height compares with Hornby until my Easterner set is delivered in the fullness of time.

I assume the only difference between the DC and DCC power feed tracks is the DCC version won't have the interference suppression capacitor across the feed (it would upset the DCC signal)? On the other hand the DCC version would also work on DC if necessary. Given that these sets are supplied for DC and have to meet certain regulations you'd expect they would include the DC feed track with suppression.

Do you have common-return wiring on your layout? I seem to recall the controlled DC output and the uncontrolled DC of the Clipper use the same transformer secondary winding (but I may be wrong). Common return layout wiring requires independent secondary windings for each controller otherwise you can experience interaction as you've described. Do you have any crossovers been the two track circuits? Again that can cause a similar interaction unless you fit isolating joiners between the points of the crossover. I have a Clipper and the Multipack add-on controller for it, but I've always wired my layouts with totally separate circuits. Incidentally I replaced the resistance mats in the H&M boxes with Gaugemaster 100 panel mount controllers many years ago (I kept the original transformer). The H&M units are now an emergency backup for my main N gauge hand-held controllers.

I did find on German ebay a special converter with an NEM shank and a Rokal coupling head, but not found anything yet to fit a Tillig head to a Rokal wagon. Also, looking at the Rokal items on ebay their wheel flanges are very coarse. I've seen on a German TT forum comments about problems with the coarse Rokal wheelsets on modern NEM standard pointwork. You'd need to replace the wheels or have them lathed. Put this through google translate :) https://www.tt-board.de/forum/threads/kupplungs-umruestung-an-rokal-fahrzeugen.46935/

If you find a cheap Rokal wagon on ebay then might as well grab it and investigate? Might be possible to use the Tillig couplings having the old style BTTB shaft (I've got a pack of those on the way to play with my BTTB set). Depends how Rokal mount theirs? I expect something can be done to fit the new type.

@mcr22 I'm not sure how compatible it is? Looking on google it looks to be different to both the old BTTB stirrup coupling and the new Tillig style. I've even just seen a Rokal baggage coach with a Triang TT tension-lock fitted to one end!

If you are going to have the programming track as an isolated siding it's vital to ensure that there is a totally dead (but switchable) length of track between the layout and the programming track section, double isolated (both rails) at each end. You don't want to risk a loco accidentally running directly between track power and the programming track and shorting the DCC system outputs. I prefer to keep the programming track totally separate, on my workbench and well away from the layout. Mine's hooked up to a SPROG programmer and JMRI software.

@Out Of Puff It's not just a case of "three terminals would work well with solenoids", the toggle switches still need to be momentary contact which return to centre-off (not latching on/off). It's three output terminals because that's how Hornby, Seep, Peco point motors work (any many others). There are ways of wiring 3-wire points with a single common return around the layout, but giving each point switch 3 terminals keeps things easy to follow if you're a beginner. DC polarity can be significant with some types of accessory - for example LED lights. The instructions for the accessory will tell you if it specifically needs DC or AC. Solenoids as used in point motors will work with DC or AC so polarity is not important, but As soon as you introduce a CDU you're enforcing use of DC for the solenoids. For your own sanity and for future maintenance you should always use consistent colour coded wiring for DC or AC, so you're clear which parts of the circuit are live or common, which point motor wires are Left throw, Right throw and common return. As @96RAF says, keep to conventions such as putting switches in the live side of circuits.

@Out Of Puff The thing is, the R044 has been around for several decades probably before CDUs became more commonplace. Without the CDU all that happens is the switch briefly tries to throw the point the way it's already set before throwing it the other way. It's the fact that a CDU needs to recharge that causes the problem. A true SPDT momentary switch properly routes power only one way or the other when you move the toggle. You can buy pre-assembled banks of switches with screw terminals, if soldering's not your thing. Probably a few brands out there? For example RK Education is an electronic component store for educators and students but they have a department for model railways: they offer various designs of switch bank, the one you need for points has SPDT momentary toggles. https://www.rkeducation.co.uk/ Here's the ready-built unit £9.99 (it's £1 cheaper if you build it yourself :) ) https://www.rkeducation.co.uk/rktoggle8-toggle-switch-module-for-model-railway----constructed-2595-p.asp Same thing is £4 more expensive on amazon, so weigh up how many of them do you want, how much shipping direct from RK costs versus whether you have an Amazon Prime account (free shipping) https://www.amazon.co.uk/RKtoggle8-Toggle-Switch-Switching-Solenoid/dp/B09B78XJBN/ref=asc_df_B09B78XJBN/ [edit]... and the same thing on ebay for £11.99 free shipping https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183735497361

It's possible that the "pause" in the middle of throwing the R044 switch is still making a circuit and not allowing the CDU to charge. Quite frankly the R044 seems a poor design for a momentary contact switch if it fires both sides of the circuit as you move the lever across. It shouldn't need a "workaround" to make use of a CDU. Try something else such as a momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switch or the Peco point lever switches. I also agree that you should verify the wiring is correct and that the point motor is accurately aligned with the point. Having the motor out of alignment can add a lot of friction and sap the power.

It is the nature of ebay and the way people use it. Some people buy stuff just to sell on through a different channel at a profit, and some buyers don't or can't be bothered to shop around and end up paying over the odds. Their choice. I see it all the time. Ebay is a convenient global marketplace and it is sometimes tempting not to bother looking elsewhere.

@Les1952 For those that like this method you can buy packs of pre-wired fishplates for N and OO, no doubt TT equivalents will appear in due course when Hornby TT fishplates become available as spares. For the Peco TT:120 track the fishplates are the same as for N.