Steel vs Nickel Silver track

[Rana Temporia]

There has been a lot of debate around this on the forum and recently I was clearing out items I have had in storage fro 20+ years to get rid of what i obviously don’t need. In one box I came across some track I bought from Beatties in the Manchester Arndale when it was closing down and I’d paid 5 or 10p a piece. Most was the later Lima track that was compatible with Hornby geometry and was a mix of NS and steel.

Interestingly there were two identical pieces that had the different rails. Both were power connector rails and both had been bought new and stored in the same box. The steel one was dirty and when I tried to run a loco on it it wouldn’t work, the NS one was virtually spotless and worked perfectly. However, the NS one has warped slightly, the sleepers are a slightly different colour so I don’t know if the plastic has contracted differently to the steel one.

NS gets the ‘thumbs up’ from me!

[Topcat1707821625]

I think it goes without saying that steel track is a complete waste of time. I have a friend who runs old Triang TT gauge on steel track. Even though he lives in a very dry part of Australia he constantly has to clean the track.

You can get 7.2 metres of nickel-silver track for around £40, so you could equip a modest layout (not of Jools Holland proportions and excluding points) for about the cost of one large Hornby loco.

[threelink]

The only advantage I can see in steel rail is that old Triang magnadhesion fitted locos will work on it whereas magnadhesion will not work on NS.

[RDS]

Totally agree. Obviously there may be members who have had a layout for quite a while and for one reason or another to swop to Nickel Silver is not possible, even though it is very desirable.

However, for anyone starting a layout, Steel Track is a complete No No.

[threelink]

@DS

Apart from the disruption of tearing up track to replace it I can't see that changing to nickel silver is much of a problem. I usually manage to find second hand lengths of ns track at train fairs and the like, for very litttle money. I've just finished refurbishing an enormous pile of damaged ns points that I picked up for a song. Time consuming but well worth it. The magnadhesion effect is easily replicated by the strategic addition of weight so I really can't think of any reason to use steel track except on display layouts of old Triang stock.

[RDS]

@threelink

I merely wanted to cover the option for people that have had layouts for years etc. I do not have any scenery on my layout but I am really pleased that I started with NS and therefore do not have to even consider replacing it because the disruption would be unthinkable.

[Deem]

You can get 7.2 metres of nickel-silver track for around £40, so you could equip a modest layout

@Topcat, new to hobby and I am thinking to expand layout in near future, so I would be grateful if you could direct me from where I can get this 7.2 meters track?

Regards

 

 

[Topcat1707821625]

@Deem

I don't know what type of track you are using. I use Code 100 as I have some older locos.

If you shop around (look on Ebay) you can find 8 x 90 cm pieces of Peco Code 100 track for £40 to £45. On further checking it's actually 91.5 cm (one yard) and Hattons sell it for £4 per length.

I am talking about flexible track, which I would recommend using wherever possible as there will be fewer joints which are potential failure points

Rigid track does work out more expensive per metre.

[Deem]

@Topcat

Thanks for prompt reply.

I will be using mostly Hornby's and few Bachmann's Loco's, with most or all of my present track and points are Hornby.

[JJ73]

Well for me I have a mixture of both NS & Steel - thou mostly it is NS as that is what came in the many Train Sets that I have, & when I went to WD Models (my Local Model Shop) to buy track - that is what he had!!! I've only got Steel track as that came from my 2 Lima & Airfix Train Set from back in the day!!! 🚂

[Gordonvale]

A few years back, I decide to have a "track renewal" project, as I'd just moved house and had dismantled my layout. As a consequence, I've got a good stock of steel track.

I put it to use for making buffer stops and for padding out sidings, where "no loco shall go".

[ModelerXYZ]

Surely, though NS is better for runnning, as prototype rails are steel, it should be steel for added realism...

XYZ

[atom3624]

I suppose if you're using it every day, there's a chance it may stay clean and shiny!!

What happens to 'real track' when it's not used? ....

Just a thought.

Al.

[Rana Temporia]

Atom, when real track isn’t used it goes rusty. It’s only the travel of trains over it that keeps the top surface shiny. Go across any foot crossing (i have a few near me) when it’s been raining and you get points of rust where the rain drops have fallen. With the recent strikes it’s easy to see hope quickly the top of the rails lose their shine and go dull.

Then there is the real life dirt caused by leaves and the like that has to be dealt with, ice and snow need to be dealt with especially with 3rd rail multiple units, and the smaller diesel shunters such as the 03 needed a match wagon to activate the track circuits. A case of us following the real world with our models!

[DBfan]

Ditch the steel and use NS .

[ModelerXYZ]

For reference, I do use NS track... But I was making a point. Yes they go rusty over the course of a few weeks. But on a real line, electric isn#t going to the train motors through the rails.

Maybe real railways should use NS as well?

XYZ

[ModelerXYZ]

For reference, I do use NS track... But I was making a point. Yes they go rusty over the course of a few weeks. But on a real line, electric isn#t going to the train motors through the rails.

Maybe real railways should use NS as well?

XYZ

[Baldiesimo]

But "real" track does not need to pass an electric current to the train to enable it to work.

[Going Spare]

Yes it does in 3rd/4th rail territory.

[LTSR_NSE]

However 3rd/4th rail tech does not attempt to ‘pick-up’ current through the wheels - only return/grounding is done through them!

[Going Spare]

Quite right, but at least the 3rd rail system still needs good surface condition on at least one running rail as well as the pick-up rail for the electrical circuit through the motor to be completed, and if one or both are contaminated by insulating material - oxidisation, ice, leaves, etc. - the train's electric motors will not work normally, if at all.

[Topcat1707821625]

@LT&SR_NSE

Not strictly correct that 3rd rail systems do not pick up current from the track. The argument does not apply to 4th rail systems as they have separate power and return rails. In a three-rail system, certainly the track is at earth potential, but that does not mean that current does not flow into or out of it.

Firstly, in an AC system if current is flowing into the track on one half cycle then it is flowing out of it on the other half-cycle.

In DC systems such as those used in the Southeast, it depends on your definition of which way current flows. In the 19th century, before the electron was discovered, it was thought that electricity flowed from positive to negative, when in fact it is the opposite way round.

So depending on whether the third rail is positive or negative and which definition of current direction you are using (conventional or electron flow) you could argue either way viz, that the train picks up current from the third rail or that it picks it up from the track.

[The Doc]

Same applies to overhead wires - the current still has to pass between wheels and the track. 12V will struggle to push much current through insulators like rust and leaves, but 25000V doesn't have that problem!

Incidentally, if you think you should have steel track for greater realism, your trains will run less reliably, so you will also have to invest in the expensive Faller road system to drive the rail replacement bus service.grinning

[Mahoganydog]

Steel track does have a few uses. Allow it to go rusty then use it in an abandoned siding. Alternatively the rail can be used as a wagon load or odd bits of rail left at the side of the track.

If you're buying track at a show and aren't sure what it is you are buying a magnet is your best friend. Buying Hornby track online is a complete minefield because there is an awful lot of steel track lurking out there.

[Topcat1707821625]

I don't see any problem with buying Hornby track online provided that you check the part number. As it's printed on the back of the track the seller should know the part number even if the track is second hand. If it's not as described you can get your money back.