Skelton Junction Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Would the fitting of Peco wheels be a possibility? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth-365689 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Do Peco sell spare wheels for TT120 wagons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelton Junction Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 not currently it would appear but I was hoping @Rallymatt may investigate as I don’t have any peco wagons yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 There are TT:120 wheel sets available from likes of Tillig although not the spoked type the 10t tankers use. I rewheeled some early Tillig hopper wagons so they would run on better on Peco track. I think the Hornby wheels and axles are fine, but the axle boxes could be an area of improvement. I have on order some brass bearing inserts. I really do want to get these great little models running as good as the Mk1 coaches 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Kenneth/SkeltonGreat idea! Don’t know why it hadn’t occurred to me, so just checked. Alas, no use. The Peco axles are gauged very slightly wider, maybe just 0.1mm, but it’s enough to make them a very tight fit into the Hornby tanker, and the wheels are then even more stiff than the originals… the quest continues…At least that’s what I found. Others may have more success!😀Edit: just overlapped posting with RM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peachy Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 There are TT:120 wheel sets available from likes of Tillig although not the spoked type the 10t tankers use. I rewheeled some early Tillig hopper wagons so they would run on better on Peco track.I think the Hornby wheels and axles are fine, but the axle boxes could be an area of improvement. I have on order some brass bearing inserts. I really do want to get these great little models running as good as the Mk1 coaches 😁 Sounds like a good plan. Although one would hope that Hornby are paying some attention to this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 Hmmm well a selection of brass axle bearings arrived and the smallest I have been able to source so far are just too deep. The gap between the pin point of the axle and the outer edge of the wheel is just too small to allow use of the bearings as supplied. If I had a small enough lathe I could turn them down, it’s dark nights now and nothing decent on TV!Im still of the opinion that the issue is related to the moulding of the sideframes; the axles move and then the wheel catches, with the moulded side frame acting as a brake. They seem better/worse in one direction.It does make me wonder if this issue is why the Mobil tankers never came back into stock.Back to the drawing board/sourcing 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peachy Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 It does make me wonder if this issue is why the Mobil tankers never came back into stock.Back to the drawing board/sourcing 😁 I think you might have something there… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 To revive the long-abandoned topic - for what it's worth I've just added a MacTrains video for improving running on these tankers and the Brake vans. By no means new for most folk on here and relying on forum wisdom and our conversation with Carl Hart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 The axle boxes are the real issue. The wheels flap about like a sheet in the wind. I have fitted some brass axle cups but that’s not worked that well so far. The side frame distortion and moulding faults and undersize axles are problematic and tbh my original fix is probably the best running you will achieve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 I once saw a video where a OO wagon had really worn axle boxes due of years of use. I believe they cleaned and filled the box with superglue, let it harden then remade the box with a burring tool. Might have been a Barrie Davies video? He had some good advice on improving couplings too which can tranlate to TT. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 (edited) That’s a great idea, one problem is the sideframes bend in though, so they constantly try to contact the outer face of wheels. The axle is too short if you ‘reset’ the frames with heat and cooling in place. If you reduce B2B to clear sideframe interference then it’s shorts all the way and poor running. Nothing to lose though so might try superglue and bicarbonate of soda to build up axle box and re-form. 👍 Edited May 2 by Rallymatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted Thursday at 13:47 Author Share Posted Thursday at 13:47 (edited) Ok so we have a fix for the poor running 10t tankers and brake vans. Credit to @david_watts1 for the reminder of the trick to repair worn axle boxes 👍 I have tried various versions of brass axle box inserts but didn’t find any were quite right for the axle diameter and side frame dimensions…. So to the fix! Remove wheel set. With a pin vice and a 1.6mm drill bit, carefully ream out the axle box, be careful not to break through the axle box moulding. clean away swarf. Fill the enlarged axle box with bicarbonate of soda. Brush excess away from inner of the side frame, if the level is slightly below that’s fine. Pop a drop of superglue into powder. It will set fast and hard. Leave to set for a couple of hours longer. Open up frames and insert axle, it will be tight, position the wheel centrally in relation to the outer axle box moulding. Squeeze gently and rotate the wheels. That should leave a ‘witness mark’ in the newly filled area. Remove wheels. With a 1.2mm drill bit in a pin vice, carefully machine a new hole, it is approximately .6mm deep so not much at all. Brush away the swarf and refit the wheel set. When it’s right the axle will spin very freely but no oscillation in the hole. video to follow 😁 Edited Thursday at 14:08 by Rallymatt 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted Thursday at 20:13 Author Share Posted Thursday at 20:13 Video now up, it’s a fix 😁 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTiimm Posted yesterday at 11:52 Share Posted yesterday at 11:52 Thanks for the video. The push down the track test at the end I have found very useful for diagnosing which of my tankers needs work done. I have one fissons and one carless that go like rockets. The second Carless I have was pretty bad until I regauged it. It is still not as good as the others but is tolerably close. The two mobil tankers I have are awful. One barely moves an inch. I need to get a pin vice first before I try your fix on those. Glad I only bought two! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted yesterday at 16:54 Author Share Posted yesterday at 16:54 Hobbycraft do a decent pin vice and small twist drill bit set. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postman On The Rails Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago They will be sold out now 😝 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago I haven’t got this worked out, all the bits you need for these tweaks, I should buy them up and offer ‘special prices’ (more) 🤣 knowledge has no value until it’s shared 😁 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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