How to stop trains running off the end of the sidings?

[Cameron Cooke]

I'm a complete novice and I've searched for this question but have not found an answer it might be because I don't know the correct terminology but how do I stop my trains from running off the end of sidings without having to turn off the power to the track on DC?

I thought about somehow insulating the track but putting anything on the track would derail the train. I just want my trains to stop before running into the buffer stops.

I'm just building a double oval OO gauge layout with sidings coming off the inner track. 

Thanks in advance.

Edited May 8 by Cameron Cooke

[Rog RJ]

You can buy buffer stops (R083) but these are designed for low speed use. A fast loco or train will knock them off and keep going. There are various electrical solutions such as insulated rail joiners (IRJs) which can be used to isolate the end of a siding.  The IRJ can be bypassed with a switch or a diode to allow the loco to be driven out.

[Cameron Cooke]

So by joining the track with isolated joiners, would I then wire power to the track and add a switch which would be off by default which I could then turn on to give power to the insulated track? Are there any off-the-shelf products that I can use to do this?

Also, would it be possible for when power is bridged to the isolated track that the train can only go in reverse direction?

This is to prevent my kids from constantly derailing the trains.

Edited May 8 by Cameron Cooke

[LTSR_NSE]

Yes Cameron - if you either use insulated fishplates/rail joiners or isolating track sections - that will cut power before buffer stop.

Then if you place a diode (in the correct orientation) in the wiring to the  isolated section, you can allow power out (i.e. loco can reverse or leave the section) whilst power into the section is still cut.

[96RAF]

The diode solution is used by auto-shuttles to allow stop on drive in but able to reverse out. The diode solders across a single rail cut at the end of the siding.

[ntpntpntp]

This is for plain DC, right?  You don't plan to go DCC on the layout?   

As others have said, for DC you cut one rail and fit a diode across the gap, the correct way round so that it block power as the loco runs in but allows power in the reverse direction.   As long as all locos are wired the same way and run in the same direction, which is the case unless someone's fiddled and re-assembled incorrectly 🙂 

Adding a switch across the gap will bypass the diode and allow you to drive in more carefully once the kids have learned to drive model trains appropriately.   I had my little lad running my N gauge layout at exhibitions when he was very young!

Edited May 8 by ntpntpntp

[Cameron Cooke]

2 hours ago, ntpntpntp said:

This is for plain DC, right?  You don't plan to go DCC on the layout?   

As others have said, for DC you cut one rail and fit a diode across the gap, the correct way round so that it block power as the loco runs in but allows power in the reverse direction.   As long as all locos are wired the same way and run in the same direction, which is the case unless someone's fiddled and re-assembled incorrectly 🙂 

Adding a switch across the gap will bypass the diode and allow you to drive in more carefully once the kids have learned to drive model trains appropriately.   I had my little lad running my N gauge layout at exhibitions when he was very young!

Love it!

Regarding DCC I didn't know anything when I got the starter set but I've invested in DC that said I don't think it would be that hard to convert to DCC, I guess with DCC I would have to have the power to all loops and sidings instead of using points to switch power.  That does seem easier than messing around with electrics as I'm not an electrical engineer!

 

 

[Cameron Cooke]

2 hours ago, 96RAF said:

The diode solution is used by auto-shuttles to allow stop on drive in but able to reverse out. The diode solders across a single rail cut at the end of the siding.

What type of diode would I need?

[Rog RJ]

Any general purpose diode such as 1N4001

[ModelerXYZ]

I glue my buffer stops to the rails with superglue. Then it doesn't matter how hard I hit them with my train, they stay put. Not an electrical solution, (I use DCC) but a mechanical one. It works for me, even when i from time to time have novice drivers driving the trains. XYZ

[atom3624]

I reckon my Hattons Class 66 would have them after a couple of attempts!!  🫣

[JJ73]

Or you can get R394 Hydraulic Buffer Stop :- R394 Hydraulic Buffer Stop (hornby.com) & if your Loco hits then then they will simply bounce back!!! 🚂

Edited May 8 by JJ73

[Gordonvale]

Try this

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_1.html

dc powered layout "Auto Stop" at Siding end

can be found half way down the page.

 

[Cameron Cooke]

On 09/05/2024 at 00:43, Gordonvale said:

Try this

https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_1.html

dc powered layout "Auto Stop" at Siding end

can be found half way down the page.

 

That's great thank you!