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dcc ready


squipper

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DCC Ready means it has a socket to which you must install a decoder to make it DCC Fitted when it will be able to run under DCC control.

 

DCC Ready is a poor turn of phrase adopted by some manufacturers that makes folk think it is RTR on DCC, when it isn’t.

 

But looking at Hattons advert for R3283 they confirm the Railroad model whilst compatible with DCC is not provided with a socket.

Rob

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So can I convet it to DCC?

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Hattons advertise R3283 as being 'DCC Compatible' which means there is no DCC decoder socket as you have already identified. DCC Compatible means that it is compatible with having a decoder added via 'hard wiring' or by fitting your own socket. Subject to space being available for the decoder you choose to put in it.

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HI the wife had got from amazon 

  • DCC Ready
  • Pristine Finish
  • Hornby Railroad Model
  • PO Livery Bagnall Shunter Locomotive
  • 00 Gauge Model
 she bought it in good faith  but it runs great  on dc till i can get it and my other 2 locos chipped for sound 

 

                               
  • DCC Ready
  • Pristine Finish
  • Hornby Railroad Model
  • PO Livery Bagnall Shunter Locomotive
  • 00 Gauge Model
› See more product details            Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.            
  • DCC Ready
  • Pristine Finish
  • Hornby Railroad Model
  • PO Livery Bagnall Shunter Locomotive
  • 00 Gauge Model
› See more product details

 

3.1 out of 5 stars    7 customer reviews

 

                     
› See more product details
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They should certainly not be calling this DCC Ready when it doesn’t have a socket.

 

But it will be simple to convert if you have basic soldering skills. Any cheaper decoder will be up to the job and you will only need to use the red and black wires which are connected to track voltage via the wheel pickup wires, and the orange and grey wires which are connected to the motor.  So you remove all connections to the motor and replace with the orange wire to one and the grey to the other.  You will then have one wire which goes to the pickups on one side, and another that goes to the pickups on the other.  Connect one to decoder red and the other to decoder black.  Discard any components (there will be at least a little yellow disc capacitor) left over and you are done.  Test before putting the body back on and if it runs the opposite way to what you expect, swap the orange and grey wires. 

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Its certainly a tad misleading for the non railway purchaser. Hattons, will of course be only too happy to change it for one with a socket. They may even, given the confusion, be happy to fit a socket, at a discounted price.. If it was mine, i would give them a ring. 

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wtd, agree, for you/me, but twould mean nowt to Heather,  I think she would be likely to assume it would be immediately ok for me for DCC, which would not be the case. It would peut etre, be better with the words, will need a socket to be installed. Given my limited knowledge, it would have ended up on my DC layout.

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I told my lot to not buy any model railway stuff for me. I do that myself. Once I got a Rails gift voucher because I just couldn’t think of anything I wanted. I generally say don’t get me anything at all I need nothing, but an Amazon or book voucher is always very useful if they insist. If somebody does get me something I really don’t want then they won’t see it when the come round. 

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That guide is dreadful and drastically over complicates matters by assuming the motor is mounted with its contacts facing down towards the chassis so must be removed to convert. In my experience of converting such locos, the contacts face up so there is no need to remove the motor. Further, it suggests replacing the capacitor and this is neither necessary nor desirable. Now refer back to my simple instructions at the bottom of page 1 of this thread and that is all that is needed. 

 

That guide has has been wrong for years now.  Don’t know how long it is since any 0-4-0 had the motor mounted contacts down. 

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