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08 Class TTS......how easy to fit


Guest Chrissaf

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Mod note: My ID appears against this starter post in error. This thread was originally raised prior to the new forum and my ID appears because I moved it here on the old forum. I have no idea which member originally raised this thread.

Was interested to see that there is now a TTS sound decoder for the class 08 shunter. Before I buy it I wonder how likely it is to fit easily inside the loco as my current chip just about fits without a speaker.

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The speaker should be a small rectangular one which will fit in front of the radiator similar to the full fat sound one did, for which you can pull the service sheet HSS363.

 

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What is your Hornby Model Number?

 

I have the model R3343 (2014 Model) which predates the first Class 8 TTS model released by Hornby R3504TTS (2016 model).

 

I have fitted the new Hornby Class 8 sound decoder no problem at all in this model without any modification whatsoever. Therefore, it is an easy upgrade for a beginner.

 

I agree there is not much space but the decoder does just fit above the motor and as RAF96 says it is a small rectangular speaker that slides up in the housing immediately behind the radiator grill and before the body retainer screws. A few minutes at most to fit.

 

Obviously I can't guarantee other variants.

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Hi all. I have a pre-sound 08 with 8 pin decoder socket (R3048?) and applicable service sheet is HSS 278. Ordered an 08 TTS chip and hoping I will get it to fit but seem to remember the R8249 chip was not easy to get in. I note comments from others about turning the motor etc. but this again looks different on the service sheet with a cradle for the motor. Has anyone actually used a TTS with this earlier model? Hope I am not on a hiding to nothing lol.

Cliff

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Hey traincliff, my 08 Laira is a DCC ready loco with no sound, but I fitted a decoder in it for my DCC layout which ment I have taken the body off, so this was a simple upgrade to fit the TTS sound chip, wires are long enough for the speaker to slot into the space behind the radiator grill. Just whatch out when removeing the body theres a pipe front left side that fits into the chassis you have to get that out of the chassis first.

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Hi Cliff, I have/had 6 of these super detailed class 08s from the XS with the Loksound 21-pin chip through just DCC ready right through to the factory TTS fitted. All mine have been basically the same. The XS just had a different socket mount but in the same place. I have just added TTS to the Network Rail shunter and it all is very straightforward as Tst says. The speaker slots in behind the radiator and in front of the moulded screw receptacles. The decoder, if you orientate it flat (maybe a dot of blu tack to keep it that way as the body goes on) sits in top of the motor between the radiator and socket. Some sort of elecrical insulation (tape on the motor top?) is advised.

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Thanks guys all this is putting my mind at rest and when my chip arrives I can get down to it. I seem to remember the pipe mentioned above last time I opened up probably 5 or 6 years ago now. Looking forward to a decent gronk with sound.

Cliff

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My 2 08 TTS decoders arrived, with others ( 20, 60 and 253 Valenta) and all were fitted during the day and evening. TTS Decoders pretested on an ESU Decoder tester before any adaption. Locos pretested with their original decoders - from long term storage - problem avoidance !

For the Hornby 08 SD early release: as mentioned by others, the supplied speaker 'slots in' behind the radiator ... BUT I trimmed off the top corners of the speaker's metal work to ensure it was able to sit up as high as possible Matching the OPENING I made behind the ( temporarily  removed )  radiator grille. ...ensuring it did not contribute to the remaining problem mentioned below. ....The grille was easily removed earlier with a stanley knife blade eased between it and the body shell  ....it is held by 4 pins in the corners.  As with others, my TTS decoder lies across the top of the motor - with insulation on the motor. - however...

A minor RESIDUAL problem I have is, without front screws, there is a 1mm body gap at the front - due to the height of the decoder and wires over the motor... I have tried both ways up to which is better, but it is marginal.  (Without any body screws, the gap is not noticeable 8-( )

My 2nd 08 went into a Bachmann  08 ... Basically the same conversion as above EXCEPT for First cutting off the front of the chassis block - ahead of the flywheel - which is also the thinnest part.   I glued the speaker at the front - again behind the opening I created in the bodyshell behind the removable 'grille'.

MY location for the TTS decoder,, was to place it vertically, immediatly behind the speaker and screw pillars..... BUT with insulating 'sheets' of plasticard either side I glued / slid in by the speaker, and the other  to the chassis block (above the 'waist') to prevent any contact with the flywheel. As when it was silent, my installation was hard wired to the 4 required wires - remainder left bundled for future lighting options.

Unfortunately the B/Grille is a solid piece, and needs to have its centre replaced with microstrip slats, or a Hornby spare part !!  Care needs to be taken not to lose the centre-sprung 'piston' part of the chassis ... I've dropped mine twice but only found it and its spring once so far 8-( ... more searching today to complete the conversion.

British Army DB Schenker 60 was a plug and play installation after overcoming some stiction from long storage - using the original decoder 8-)

B Class 20 .... showed I had made an unusual installation originally: 21 pin to 8 pin adapter followed by a Large Lenz decoder complete with SUSI add-on connector !! .... all this came out, and the TTS decoder was wired in directly.  There is nowhere in the B model for the supplied Hornby Speaker - and although I had ordered some small sugar cube speakers, I did not use these, but instead a small, ESU rectangular silver-grilled speaker with soldered connections - and located this on the chassis block roughly below the fan opening

253/254 /Class 43 Valenta - installed a day before GWR apparently has stopped using HSTs (according to breakfast TV) .... Mine were installed into a Blue Wavy Line Livery FGW set,, and a Virgin Red Power Car pair - as I have SWD Loksounds in one end of my BlueGrey and Intercity HSTs.  Access, after removing the 4 screws, from the powered cars, is by separating at the rear and then taking the chassis out rearwards - care is needed in the opposite direction ( Haynes would say reassembly is the reverse of disassembly??)  to ensure the lighting springs are not caught.  

The  TTS decoder is then plugged in and the leads taken around the side of the fan assembly -  it is most easily fitted if the speaker is glued facing down - a sticky pad then secures the decoder on top.   ADDING a piece of card (from the TTS decoder box) makes the speaker a snug fit in the rear of the chassis - over the rear bogie - and this is where I glued the speakers ( ensuring the bogie remained free to move )  -

Another test: I tried a spare (due to chassis rot) Class 31 TTS decoder in a Heljan Class 33 WITH THE ADDITION of a High Power Resistor to ensure the motor current remained in limits  - it works, and runs, but I don't think the engins sound a good match for the 8 cyclinder 33, so it may end up in a 37 or overseas loco.

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08 - Early Hornby fitting UPDATE:   I was a bit concerned about the 'slight gap' refitting the bodyshell - ie that with the decoder on top of the motor, it was also in contact with the inside of the body, and anyone copying my method and refitting the screws might have damaged the decoder... so I looked again.

I didn't want or consider it necessary to install it in the cab.  However I decided that, as usual, the 8-pin socket and plug area was a waste of space !! - and I could try to fit the decoder there ..... but the TTS decoder is slightly longer .... so I prepeared to mount it at a slight angle, passing over the top of the flywheel - with a protective  'shield' extended from the motor, over the flywheel, to prevent unwanted contact.

As I started trimming off the surplus metal around the 8-pin socket space, I realised ! - it was a separate add-on block, held by 2 screws (which were working loose)....and that whole piece was simply removable .. it was NOT REQUIRED to hold the gears or motor in place (as with many of the steam locos) ... that was a separate plastic clip on part below it ..... therefore by simply removing 2 screws, and losing a little weight, I had an available space... but still a little short ... so mine is 'mounted' at an angle - flush with the forward end of the gear-tower, and protected from the flywheel at the other by a piece of card; curved and glued to the top of the motor - extending over the flywheel .... and the wiring end of the decoder lies over this, with the taller components on the lower side ( sound processor on top ).   It DID involve 'hard-wiring' - and extending both the speaker wires ( 5mm too short ) and  the grey motor wire that I had shortened originally (when I had made an inline join,  sleeved in heatshrink, to the existing lower motor (black) wire, to avoid the need to remove it for access.  Unused leads are taped to curved card on top of the motor for future use.

So a revised 1 post early Hornby 08 TTS Fitting summary: 

1- Remove grille and cut square hole  in main body WITHIN the confines of the grille's position -

2- Hornby speaker slides in behind it, forward of screw pillars (I trimmed top corners to ensure speaker as high up as possible. Refit Grille - but note that with the Hornby model, it is held to the chassis block by the foam piece supplied - the speaker slding in and out with the chassis block.

3- Remove screwed on weight/chassis block with 8 pin socket,  and glue a curved piece of card to the motor extending over the flywheel

4- Hardwire the TTS decoder (having checked its functionality first) in position over the gear-tower and overlapping the flywheel protective card.

5- Tape surplus wires to the top of the motor (insulated below by the card) for possible future use.  refit body -  all 6 screws safely used. perfect.

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Thank you Phil for your comprehensive posts which will help me a lot when I tackle my earlier SD 08 in the next few days. I do remember finding it hard to get the body back on even with just the R8249 decoder so I do see exactly where you are coming from.

Cliff

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Cliff I did a cotswold rail one and a FGW at the same time and the fgw one had the motor ‘flat’ but the Cotswold one was upright. I unscrewed the front bracket, made the hole in it round with a file then glued it back onto the motor after rotating it 90 degrees. It’s a 2 minute job, that’s the only way you’ll get it in an older model I think. Older ones also don’t tend to have the grill opened up, I used sugarcube which sounds the same whether the grill is open or not, but with the standard speaker you would need to cut it open to let the sound out.

Richard

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  • 2 years later...

Hello to Everyone

I am little to late join this conversion but wondering if some one can advise me.

I have Hornby Class 08

Service Sheet 139A

Doesn't have DCC fitted and considering to install DCC decoder.

This loco runs very smoothly on DC after I have cleaned and done full service, installed new Traction Tyres and Loco run very good both direction.

I have spare X8809DM motor with 6 Pickups (3 on each side) and 4 pin male wire connector which accept Hornby 4 Wire Decoder (R7274).

My understanding is I can change all wheels with Hornby X8871M so I can full wheel pickups from Track.

Also in future I would like to install TTS sound decoder so how would add that to Hornby R7274?

Any Advice will be nuch appreciated.

Regards

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Deem, not meaning to be disrespectful, rather looking to help, but ....:

  • you’ve added to a 3 yr old thread, most unusual for this to be a good idea, did you read it?
  • the thread is full of people saying how easy the conversion is. If yours is the same (there are more 08s than you can poke a stick at), follow what they say. If it’s different, much better to start your own thread
  • you talk about a 4-pin decoder plug/socket, all the previous are either 8 or 21, so different
  • if you are using a 4-pin socket, you are not going to have an easy time with an 8-pin TTS
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