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Wanted: Mallard service sheet


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Please excuse any failure on my part to follow any correct protocol as this is my first post here.


I have just acquired “Mallard” R2339-PO73 and am trying to track down a proper service sheet. The best I have come up with is the exploded diagram of parts at the main Hornby site whereas I am looking for lube instructions and dcc fitting instructions (I know it is fitted with 8 pin socket which is easy enough but I want stuff like how to take off the lid and so on.


So is anyone here able to point me in the correct direction please??


And I am new to this format of loco driven model with both power lines coming in from the tender so have been browsing through the posts here but if anyone has any general pointers I shall be most grateful. Thanks in anticipation.


Martyn

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I believe this is what you're after. https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360016322180-CLASS-A4

Regarding help with loco driven models, what sort of help are you after?

 

 

@tvr HUGE thanks for that link it is exactly the document I was looking for :)

 

 

I dont really know what information I need at the moment - I dont know what I dont know. But I have seen references to the loco / tender electrical connections failing and workarounds and remedies being suggested. So I suppose the question is - is there anything I should know??

 

 

Now I'm off to give it a service as it is a "poor runner" (currently suspecting from a visual inspection that the loco / tender connection is not good) and once running to insert a dcc chip)

 

 

Thanks again

 

 

Martyn

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Hi Martyn,


If it's the loco-tender connection with a loop and copper contacts beneath then it's not the most reliable in the world but if it works, then in my opinion it's best to leave it, unless it fails, when a better connection could be made by soldering wires across the joints. I have attached a diagram of the arangement of the connection (not my image!). If it the connection with the plug and metal bar, then it should be fine to leave it as it is.


Best wishesforum_image_6137b389c226a.png.89c5b9d650cc08f00fed4fb0744851a7.png

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It is an early latest version of the super detail A4, and is a superb model - mine runs extremely well.

I suppose the key things to review are:

  1. Wires - none broken.
  2. Contact / pickup areas - all are clean and make good gentle contact at all normal times.
  3. Fingers / tender - I normally very gently slightly separate (make sure they don't touch the centre bar) and slightly raise them to ensure they make good contact with the tender.
  4. Drawbar - are they wired - this is the most 'fragile' area and wires frequently break here.
  5. Tender pickups - Hornby tender pickups are nearly always poorly adjusted and don't make contact with the wheels. Only slight adjustment required to ensure good contact.

A superb model, so definitely worth keeping hold of - I love mine.

Al.

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The body is held on by a single screw at the front under the bogie. They can stick and destroy the post holding the captive 'nut'. The body lifts up and away from lugs at the rear.

The maintenance sheet tells how to remove the body and where the decoder socket is, although it shows the later tender mounted socket and associated plug / socket.

https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/360016264799

the earlier loco mounted socket is more like this A1

https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/360016264639

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@ all of you: hugest of thanks for fast and helpful responses here - I really do appreciate them all. Here's a bit of an update:-


It appears to be the earlier "dcc ready" model so structurally more like the A1 service sheet. I have taken the lid off the tender to discover there is no socket in there so am hoping it is in the loco, the pick up wipers appear to be in good contact and connections to the drawbar appear good (not tested yet with a multimeter).


I find the prospect of opening the lid of the loco a little daunting - I am used to opening up old, bashed, scrap units, converting them to dcc and installing functioning directional lights - but this is in such good condition with (for Hornby) very fine details that I don't want to make a total horlicks of it all. Particularly, the physical connectors between the wheel rods and the chassis / body are quite off putting at the moment.


Where I acquired it as "poor runner" from Hattons (so I knew it would not be a lemon) currently it is a non-runner - not responding to a dc test which means I rally do need to remove the loco lid to inspect and test everything before I even consider inserting a chip. My quandary is whether I put in a plain and simple vanilla dcc cheap chip or do I bite the bullet and invest in a sound chip and if so which one ??


Finally, if anyone is able to assist - one of the footplate doors is missing - if anyone has a scrappage one going begging I would be happy to take it off your hands.

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My advice would be to get the loco running well in DC before considering decoders. Then when it is install the decoder of choice. If it is running well in DC you can be reasonably sure it will be OK with a chip fitted.

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Good observation earlier I didn't mention - there's the 'oiler' connection between the body and the chassis - this needs to be removed before you remove the body.

A 2.5mm hex driver is required - be VERY careful - these bolts are very small, and through their sheer small size, they're very fragile - closing back up, a very gently 'nip tight' only is required.

Al.

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dc setup, controller, how are you testing?

Good question - currently using an old Hornby something or other with a pair of fly leads that I hold in contact with the pick ups. Testing the loco there is a bit of life which is reassuring but nothing from the tender pick up. Still not run a multimeter test though.

 

 

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Good observation earlier I didn't mention - there's the 'oiler' connection between the body and the chassis - this needs to be removed before you remove the body.
A 2.5mm hex driver is required - be VERY careful - these bolts are very small, and through their sheer small size, they're very fragile - closing back up, a very gently 'nip tight' only is required.
Al.

So upon a close look this is waaaayyyyyy smaller than anything I have in the toolkit - where can I get one as I've not even seen anything this small??

 

 

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