Would you buy a used Elite?

[Andy too]

I have had a Select for 10 years. It works well and is currently with Hornby getting the new firmware. 

 

However... I fancy a better DCC controller but on limited funds.  Given the opposition,  would you buy a used Elite or something else? 

 

Thanks.

[SteveM6]

I did and was fortunate that Hornby agreed to repair a dodgy push button contact. They may not be quite so accommodating these days.

As a pure DCC controller I prefer the Gaugemaster Prodigy but I have my elite so I can use it as a power source for HM7K and because it is compatible with the HM7K dongle.

I don't use it in DCC mode as I personally find it clunky to use - others will have different opinions.

[RB51]

I purchased a secondhand Elite from Hornby about 10 years ago, still going strong *touches wood*. Hardly use it for loco control preferring TGG automation instead. Once programmes are written that is! R-

[dBerriff]

I did so I had better answer yes. I cannot say I like it much but at least the firmware is upgradeable once you find a USB port that can communicate with the Elite. The upgrade software is Windows only.

Perhaps read this first: http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page12.html

[96RAF]

42 minutes ago, dBerriff said:

I did so I had better answer yes. I cannot say I like it much but at least the firmware is upgradeable once you find a USB port that can communicate with the Elite. The upgrade software is Windows only.

Perhaps read this first: http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page12.html

I don't need to read it, I wrote it.
The Elite has few faults and is a very capable controller.

It can however be killed by finger trouble. A typical example is connecting the Boost terminals to a live track in the hope of getting more power. Wrong. Boost is simply a repeater signal to be sent to a Booster module. 

The perfect controller is the one that does what you want, at a price you can afford, that feels comfortable in use.

[dBerriff]

I know you wrote it! And I read it. It is a very interesting teardown and one of these days I must overhaul the heatsink on my Elite.

My personal preference is now for the HM7000 app, which will work through a Dongle connected to a Select, should the OP wish to try that for non-HM7000 decoders.

My preference, otherwise, is for JMRI (through DCC-EX) although there is a definite learning curve and you will need a computer.

Edited September 1 by dBerriff

[ColinB]

I have an Elite I bought second hand and it is still working. The rotary control knobs can give issues as they are resistive rotary switch which do go wrong. The Elite is absolute brilliant for programing options as it has menus to do most things. So you don't need to worry about short and long addressing as it handles it automatically. The thing I don't like about it is when running multiple locos, on the Elite you end up switching between the two controller knobs as the display will only display one locos data. The Elite doesn't automatically remember settings from last time, whereas on a lot of the other units it does. It is better than a Select.

I use a upgraded Digikeijs because I like the windows interface where I can display data for as many locos as I want but its programing functions are not as good as the Elite's. So I use the Elite for programming and the Digikeijs for running. 

[Andy too]

Update.  Visited my local club today.  Tested the Hornby Elite  side by side with a Digitrax DCS52.  The Hornby lost.

I'll have to compare specifications, but it looks like I'm sold on the DCS52. 

 

 

[dBerriff]

I have never used a Digitrax but I like the look of the control panel.

We lived in Strang for 15 years, then grandchildren came along and so back to overcrowded Ingerland. Real steam engines from Douglas to Port Erin or a Victorian tram to Ramsey. How I miss the place. I would be back tomorrow in different circumstances. I was just wondering where your local club was. I was too busy with music to get involved with modelling while on the Island.

Edited September 3 by dBerriff

[Deem]

17 hours ago, Andy too said:

Update.  Visited my local club today.  Tested the Hornby Elite  side by side with a Digitrax DCS52.  The Hornby lost.

I'll have to compare specifications, but it looks like I'm sold on the DCS52. 

 

 

I recently used DCS52, very good DCC Controller, instant power with throttle, very similar controls as I have seen in older trains (early electrics). Controller was in mint condition and was very reasonably priced as well, but I had to return it due to controller had an issue. If I ever get a chance, I would like buy DSC52 as well. It's very straight forward controller with good specs.

[Andy too]

8 hours ago, dBerriff said:

I have never used a Digitrax but I like the look of the control panel.

We lived in Strang for 15 years, then grandchildren came along and so back to overcrowded Ingerland. Real steam engines from Douglas to Port Erin or a Victorian tram to Ramsey. How I miss the place. I would be back tomorrow in different circumstances. I was just wondering where your local club was. I was too busy with music to get involved with modelling while on the Island.

I'm in the far north of Bride. It is a great place for rail nuts. 

 

The club used to be in Allan St Douglas, but now it meets at members homes.

[Andy too]

43 minutes ago, Deem said:

I recently used DCS52, very good DCC Controller, instant power with throttle, very similar controls as I have seen in older trains (early electrics). Controller was in mint condition and was very reasonably priced as well, but I had to return it due to controller had an issue. If I ever get a chance, I would like buy DSC52 as well. It's very straight forward controller with good specs.

Prices seem to vary wildly £190 to 300 new. A certain emporium in Sheffield wants IIRC £199 for a used one.  

In my world used has to be cheaper to make the lesser warranty worthwhile. 

 

Thanks.

[Ian-363170]

Hi, Since I bought the Easterner set (TT120) I have used the app on my mobile. But ever since I have experienced problems with consistent running. The loco was returned 3 times and eventually they replaced the decoder. I started having problems again. The loco would just suddenly stop and refuse to move sometimes for 20 minutes occasionally 10_15 seconds. Evenually I purchased the A1 Trigo to see if this worked any better, but no. The same things continued. Hornby tech lads, in particular Chris, were very patient with me (well, I am 77) but again the faults came back. I managed to find a brand new unused boxed class 50 which worked a treat for a couple of hours 😟. Long story short, Hornby thought it may have something to do with my android mobile and I found that it was definitely the bluetooth dropping or overloading which was the real cause. 

I decided to look to see if I could find a 2nd hand Elite which I did and am waiting it's arrival. My actual question is, are their any videos showing how to start with the Elite? I'm not expecting the instructions with this 'boxed' unit. Any help much appreciated.

Many thanks in anticipation,

IJM.

Edited September 4 by Ian-363170

[Rog RJ]

The Elite manual is available  as a download  if you don't  receive a paper copy.  https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/360015932399

Hope the link works 😀

[ColinB]

1 hour ago, Ian-363170 said:

Hi, Since I bought the Easterner set (TT120) I have used the app on my mobile. But ever since I have experienced problems with consistent running. The loco was returned 3 times and eventually they replaced the decoder. I started having problems again. The loco would just suddenly stop and refuse to move sometimes for 20 minutes occasionally 10_15 seconds. Evenually I purchased the A1 Trigo to see if this worked any better, but no. The same things continued. Hornby tech lads, in particular Chris, were very patient with me (well, I am 77) but again the faults came back. I managed to find a brand new unused boxed class 50 which worked a treat for a couple of hours 😟. Long story short, Hornby thought it may have something to do with my android mobile and I found that it was definitely the bluetooth dropping or overloading which was the real cause. 

I decided to look to see if I could find a 2nd hand Elite which I did and am waiting it's arrival. My actual question is, are their any videos showing how to start with the Elite? I'm not expecting the instructions with this 'boxed' unit. Any help much appreciated.

Many thanks in anticipation,

IJM.

Actually considering I usually criticise it for being old fashion, it is pretty good. A lot of it is self explanatory. If you start with a loco with a default id of 3, then you power up the unit, connect the track to the terminals and then turn the left hand control and your loco will move.  It is just like an old DC controller turn it clockwise to increase speed, anti clockwise to decrease speed. To change direction just press the left hand control and the loco will go backwards. To get functions just press the function key. It really is a good interface. Even the programming functions are self explanatory. My complaint is when you have multiple locos it gets a bit messy but if you are used to the HM7000 then it is about the same. 

[Ian-363170]

1 hour ago, Rog RJ said:

The Elite manual is available  as a download  if you don't  receive a paper copy.  https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/article_attachments/360015932399

Hope the link works 😀

Worked a treat thanks 😊. Although looking at the number of pages, I may well be a centenarian by the time I've read and fully understood them 😂.

[LTSR_NSE]

Given that limited funds was mentioned in the first post, one of if not the cheapest DCC controllers is the diy DCC-Ex project.

https://dcc-ex.com

Obviously anyone looking for a retail solution need not waste time investigating this further, however for those who want to mostly use the HM|DCC app with HM7k decoders & would like an inexpensive option for a pure DCC backup - it is hard to beat.

[Deem]

2 hours ago, Ian-363170 said:

Hi, Since I bought the Easterner set (TT120) I have used the app on my mobile. But ever since I have experienced problems with consistent running. The loco was returned 3 times and eventually they replaced the decoder. I started having problems again. The loco would just suddenly stop and refuse to move sometimes for 20 minutes occasionally 10_15 seconds. Evenually I purchased the A1 Trigo to see if this worked any better, but no. The same things continued. Hornby tech lads, in particular Chris, were very patient with me (well, I am 77) but again the faults came back. I managed to find a brand new unused boxed class 50 which worked a treat for a couple of hours 😟. Long story short, Hornby thought it may have something to do with my android mobile and I found that it was definitely the bluetooth dropping or overloading which was the real cause. 

I decided to look to see if I could find a 2nd hand Elite which I did and am waiting it's arrival. My actual question is, are their any videos showing how to start with the Elite? I'm not expecting the instructions with this 'boxed' unit. Any help much appreciated.

Many thanks in anticipation,

IJM.

This video I have just seen online, maybe handy for you and give you rough idea.

 

[Deem]

Another option for you to see, I haven't seen these video, but it shows quite few videos on how to do things, just bear in mind these video may have older firmware compare to 1.45 which is the latest firmware, so things may look different to you, no need to panic just with newer firmware it brings ease of use. Just a point to remember.

 

[Fishmanoz]

You certainly need to confirm firmware version and update if not v1.45, then the downloaded manual is the one to use for this version.

[Ian-363170]

Thanks all for the responses. The package finally arrived today. It has the manual and appendage so that's ok, unfortunately the 2 wires connecting unit to the track are missing so I'll phone the tech dept. tomorrow and seek advice on if I can purchase them from Hornby or could I use 'ordinary' electrical wire as the connection. AH, I have watched the vieo posted by Deem and you need 2 pairs of wires but does it mean you have to switch the wires in the power track when you want to programme a loco? 

Many thanks.

[Rog RJ]

The Elite can use any reasonable cable or wire for the track feeds such as 5 amp lighting flex, similar.  No need to involve Hornby for a bit of wire.

[96RAF]

47 minutes ago, Ian-363170 said:

you need 2 pairs of wires but does it mean you have to switch the wires in the power track when you want to programme a loco? 

You can leave both a programming track and the layout connected to your Elite.  As stated any reasonable gauge wire is OK. I use mains lighting twin core flex, which I also use for bus droppers.

[Deem]

1 hour ago, Ian-363170 said:

Thanks all for the responses. The package finally arrived today. It has the manual and appendage so that's ok, unfortunately the 2 wires connecting unit to the track are missing so I'll phone the tech dept. tomorrow and seek advice on if I can purchase them from Hornby or could I use 'ordinary' electrical wire as the connection. AH, I have watched the vieo posted by Deem and you need 2 pairs of wires but does it mean you have to switch the wires in the power track when you want to programme a loco? 

Many thanks.

Welcome to Hornby Elite world (if that is a thing) As mentioned by @Rog RJ and @96RAF, any decent wire will do the Job. As for switching wires in power track or programming track, you can leave both connected to Elite all the times, so when you running the Loco, you use the main powered track, when you need to check or program either lift the loco from main track and put in on programming track, or unless, you have part of your layout isolated just for programming than you can bring the loco to that section and do your programming. Do switch off the hornby after usage.

[Ian-363170]

14 hours ago, Deem said:

Welcome to Hornby Elite world (if that is a thing) As mentioned by @Rog RJ and @96RAF, any decent wire will do the Job. As for switching wires in power track or programming track, you can leave both connected to Elite all the times, so when you running the Loco, you use the main powered track, when you need to check or program either lift the loco from main track and put in on programming track, or unless, you have part of your layout isolated just for programming than you can bring the loco to that section and do your programming. Do switch off the hornby after usage.

Right, got myself the wires. Now on the quick start video above it shows 2 pairs of wires being inserted into the elite but only 1 pair into the power track. Where does the other pair go please? I'm finding the manual a bit short of very basic info. According to the video the loco should move srtaight away. Is this with the wiring from 'track' to track? If so how can I programme the loco unless I switch the leads over connected to the power track? I know I'm being a bit of a nuisance but I have spent a few hundred pounds on setting this up and I desperately want it to work especially so my grandkids have the opportunity to run trains as they enjoy helping with scenery.