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What's on your workbench?


81F

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Using that simple loop mentioned earlier, I decided to have another look at 46100 Royal Scot.

Needed nearly full power of a HM2000 to get moving then sped up a fair bit - obviously slow.

When running backwards, it seemed almost 'normal'.

Back to running forwards and obviously much slower.

Ran for nearly one hour - no change.

Changed the motor - had a few the same dimensions - and all is well .... then, to replace the body.

It's a VERY tight fit, getting the wires in, motor must be straight just to permit the body to pass over ... all is well ... then just getting the body to lign up ready for the final screw and I pop the little rivet holding the valve gear - naughty words time!!

I tried, and tried to get it on again, then of course, I lost it - literally.

Not an expert on pop rivets, I purchased a new valve gear set of the Hornby site.

 

Never mind.

One of those things I suppose.

 

Al.

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Received the valvegear set and finally got 'a quiet moment' to replace the RHS valvegear, as required.

NOT an easy job, for me anyway, but managed to complete all and finally reassembled.

 

Didn't want to get discouraged in case there's a new problem, so I've left the testwork until 'later' - quite pleased for now!!

 

Al.

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Not exactly workbench, more footstool next to sofa as I was watching the latest Paddington Station episode, after the family had gone to bed ...

 

In preparation for Winston Churchill's arrival, I've dug out Bude - un-rebuilt - and Clan Line.

 

I noticed that I'd never got around to fitting the front steps on Bude - they're at best very fragile - but I knew where I could find a pair, and did!!

Fitted the steps, and front buffers are still sprung - another achievement - often get fouled by the glue ... and also decided to dig out the plastic coal and 'real coal' it - not a bad job and kept the viewable coal around 1.5 - 3 mm maximum dimension.

 

Al.

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Not exactly on, but alongside my workbench - I’m at the PC inputting information from service sheets to my Hornby motors spreadsheet, then linking the SS to each entry so it pops up for reference. Head-banging task but it should be handy one day, especially if I can list alternative source replacements for hard to find motors.

 

Maybe I should be finishing off installing the lights, DCC socket and TTS decoder in my HST dummy car Instead. I keep putting it off as it involves soldering those pesky smd leds and resistors again.

Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...

 A very simple job. About half way trough re-whheling my Vlue/grey Hornby Triang Mk1s with new wheels as the original Triang and silver seal wheels kept climbing over my point frogs.

 

However, with the new wheels the coaches are so free running I can start a six coach train on my steep colliery branch without wheel slip.

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Fitted RT Models' cylinder draincocks to 35028 Clan and 35025 Brocklebank Line - some patience and 'adjusting' required but look great!!

Quick photo - I know the close-up shows some 'imperfections' with glue and paint - RT Models' steps as well - but 'with normal eyes' I like it!!

 

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Al.

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I decided to change my modelling “period” to be anything that could be running on the mainline in 2018. Given the amount of preserved locos with mainline certificates the opportunity is huge! That said, it does mean a number of class 25s, 08s, Princess Coronations and A4s will be off as I can’t repaint and number them all to something still running… So, taking advantage of some cheap deals here’s a few pictures of the repaint projects:

 

Updating the NMT power cars livery to 2018. Power car detail removed with 7000 grit "wet and dry" stuck to lolly sticks and lubricated with T-cut.

Blanking and repainting some £12 Midland Mainline Mk3s to match. Coach bodies in Humbrol 69 aerosol on Halfords white primer. 

 

Repaint and renumbering to get the fleet of large logo DRS Class 37s (these are all actually Vitrains). Railmatch aerosols for the BR Blue (1207) and Grey (1206), Humbrol 69 on the nose with Halfords Satin black.

 

Using a couple of Vitrains 37s to recreate the proper look for 97301 (nose was ex-37709 with the blanking plate filed down as smooth as I could go and mating them to a respray of a 37201). Humbrol 69 for the body (on grey primer this time), Halfords Grey Primer for the roof, nose ends Halfords Rover Inca Yellow.

 

Working out the colour match for the LNER Mk3. I think I’ll be going with Halfords Red Primer as a base to Halfords Volkswagen Mars Red No2, then Halfords White Primer and Railmatch 1206 Rail Grey again… Pretty close to the VTEC power car and given the non-availability/silly prices fo the VTEC coaches a worthwhile try!

 

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Blanking and repainting some £12 Midland Mainline Mk3s to match. Coach bodies in Humbrol 69 aerosol on Halfords white primer. 

I actually have switched the coach bodies to the Rover Inca Yellow now. Slightly darker as I am considering painting the power cars in Humbrol 69. In reality the power cars seem slightly lighter than the coaches..

 

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 A couple of weeks ago I saw a Royal Lancer body going relatively cheap on eBay so bought it and have spent a few hours modifying the inside of the shell and have finally managed to shoe-horn a Railroad Scotsman chassis into it.

 

The main focus of work was at the cab end where I had to modify the underside to recieve the lug at the back of the scotsman chassis then file away a lot of material from the inside of the firebox and boiler.

 

The A1 chassis had to have the fixing screw hole opened up to take the last body fixing screw I had.  Only problem is I may have cracked the cylinder block but hopefully Ithe spare I have will fit if it ever completely breaks.

 

I am now awaiting a set of Hornby metal bufferheads to replace the horrible plastic originals

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 My next project will be to convert a Tornado into a proper A1. I've changed the tender for one originaing from a P2 but will need to polish away the LNER and replace with BRITISH RAILWATS. I tried to fit the top to the original Tornado tender chassis but it just doesnt want to know. The result is the rear buffers have black bodies while the front are red. Am I therefore right in thinking that I should paint the back ones red to match?

 

Also what coaches would be best. I am considering a rake of Blood & Custard Mk1s but I do have a rake of LNER Thompsons. Presumably OK for early nationalization?

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located a WC / BoB locomotive chassis kit with brake pull rods for Winston - which arrived yesterday, and fitted them successfully - definitely looks much better for it.

 

Waiting on the front steps and draincocks to complete the picture - from RT Models.

 

Must admit the garage wasn't that 'inviting' the last couple of evenings - don't have a thermometer in there but couldn't have been above 5-6C !!

 

Al.

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  • 1 month later...

 I currently have a hornby Railroad Tornado (or at least it was) I changed the tender body for that off a P2 and am in the process of polishing away the name plates, number and LNER off the tender. Hopefully by the time I have done this a set of plates for WP Allen will have arrrived.

 

If you are tempted to do this yourself becareful polishing the LNER away as I went through the paint to a lighter green plastic. Sadly finding a paint match is vitually impossible directly out of a can. The Railmatch "Doncaster" green seemed too yellow. In the end I applide a couple of sweeps of Rail blue thena similar amounbt of Doncaster green while the blue was still wet than alternated until I though I got the correct shade.

 

I'll post photos assuming I do not ruin it!

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I have an old 'Oliver Cromwell' that is being returned to runnning condition. New brushes and springs, a thorough clean of the commutator and light lubing of gears/pinnion. The tender chassis was smashed when I first got it but I have managed to glue this back together. The motion on one side was jamming but I have fixed this too. I have replaced the name plates with etched ones. Need to paint the cab roof and smoke deflectors to smarten them up and add vacuum pipes and lamps and remagnetize before I leave it alone!

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Rebuilt clan line , bargin from a well know auction site?

so far -

cleaned out the gear box of thick gunk,

dryed out the running gear covered in oil

refixed the motor which was lose 

remixed the front screw to hold the body on .

loco now runs.

Engine/tender connections shorting 

still required, smoke deflectors (came with a Britannia deflector) sifting valves,front steps,tender steps. Waiting for RT to return from tree winter break.

It is a good strong runner, but has a tendency to derail on the straight when aim not watching.

derek 19b

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Added BR Standard cylinder draincocks to my heavily weathered Crosti.

Only thing letting it down is the 'Railroad quality' RHS under cab pipework - that's about it - the rest is brilliant - fantastic looking locomotive.

 

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Al.

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Looks good Al.

I wonder how you keep your ’dirty’ locos so clean. All my digi-photos at that cruel magnification show up bits of hair and fluff, etc. I have tried soft brushes and a camera lens puffer brush but next time I look its just as bad.

Rob

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Hi Rob,

 

I have to be polite on the forum, but generally I didn't think the photos come out that well.

I will give a 'gentle dust off' every so often, and am moving them around as I shouldn't.

 

I have an area in the garage where several are 'on shed', 'though not powered, pending the phantom layout which may eventually materialise, so evenings and weekends I bring 'latest favourites' into the living room, next to where I normally 'watch the telly', to admire and inspire.

Have to return them as wife has friends with toddlers and babies ... !! 

 

Hornby played a blinder with the Crosti. If I could find Bachmann pipes to replace the Hornby ones ... the rest is nearly sorted - lamp brackets I suppose, but fantastic locomotive, particularly for a Railroad.

 

Al.

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D213 Class 40 Andania in 2018 mainline preservation livery! I am converting the TTS Empress of Canada... So far renumbered and renamed, lowered the grey roof, added the cant rail stripe. Working headlight added and lights fitted. Some bogie and side detail added. Just waiting on some BR green paint so I can do the headcode discs and  the rest of the buffer beam detail..I have to decide what to do with the coupling housing - trim it back most likely!

 

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