Rana Temporia Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/ff81f9cea35474d46632aaf29b6331a7.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/f501436df8ed0148e17b0593918322fb.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/e3ed6101171ee167c85fa41dbfebbb3f.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/091ef8dc09c46249369c5fd28edf26c1.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/e41f1778280ddc074b2e17fec5954ad3.JPG In addition to an earlier post regarding a very old Jouef BB9200 I recently managed to obtain one of the even earlier versions with a motor bogie full of gears as a box of bits. Amazingly when I put it back together it was complete apart from one screw but it needed a lot of straightening, cleaning and lubrication to get it functioning. I had to remove a lot of carpet from the mechanism which was jammed around everything and clean all the contacts! This is one of the first versions which has a 6v motor, just like the original pacific loco. Once it's running it is virtually impossible to stop as it coasts for ages once the power is switched off. It also moves off as soon as any current is applied from the controller. Have a look at the photos which for some reason have gone in the wrong way round! They show the parts of the bogie that needed cleaning to get it to work. The large headed screw on the bogie was there temorarily to check it all worked. I found a correct one later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/9fe7ea28452e00fca47a6010d985507e.JPG I thought I'd post this to show it doesnt always go as planned...... I got this interesting 00 clockwork loco which I think is Wells Brimtoy, definately made in England and decided to fix it. On dismantling I found the spring was OK and all the bits were there. The problem was with the three pointed fitting behind the spring which allowed the cog to turn but engaged the drive if rotated by the spring. Two of the three clips had broken off so I fixed the cog in place with some strips of steel folded around the fitting and pushed through the holed before clamping them tightly in place. I wasn't bothered about the clips as I would never be overtightening it. After some fun re-assembling everything (good job I took photos!!!) the loco worked perfectly.... for a while. It suddenly jammed solid, when I tried to move it the spring relaeased and fired the body off the chassis. Back to square one!!!/media/tinymce_upload/eff4fee74d9e13d2c4b678dd5e5aaf8e.JPGThis is the mechanism/media/tinymce_upload/2d0f696792bfe433ce75944514acc942.JPGThe damaged clip/media/tinymce_upload/492d43e1a2e03f6b53b12be2289f7050.JPGThe steel in place./media/tinymce_upload/1da1314b976bf908129a18575ce7eea2.JPGAlll ready to be fitted back. Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of the loco in it's re-assembled state./media/tinymce_upload/8fe7ce28b8658c4fde746bb0b3506f65.JPG And back to square one.... ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 My Dapol plastic kit Deltic prototype which I installed lights into a while ago, has at last got a chassis frame from a Hornby Class 55 (not exactly correct but close enough for government work as we used to say at work). I also got the complete front bogie which required dismantling to solder pickup wires onto (putting that back together was fiddly with my ten thumbs). Although I have the motor bogie underframe I cannot find a drive unit X9775. I have spare Class 40 and Class 58 drive units but the wheels are too big and the wheelbase is out. Class 31, 37 and 47 seem to be similar but nil stock of those drive units either. To make the chassis frame fit I had to slightly trim the corners to match the Dapol body. I also had to cut off the Dapol fuel tank mouldings as the Hornby chassis has these as an integral part of the frame. The body and chassis locating lugs matched up so that was a bonus. There are detail differences between the DP1 and the Class 55 but I shan’t fret about those. /media/tinymce_upload/bd30fedc0c5c61c9a61c28faec05d3a1.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/e701e0453f349d199bca789e55f10995.jpg A bit of detail work and some more paint to do but its almost a runner.Just waiting for a TTS Deltic chip to magically appear and its done. May have to wait as long for that as for the drive unit to become available though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 RAF, Nice joB. I did one of these years ago and used an old type Hornby class 37 ringfield chassis suitably lengthened with the side frames filed down and the Dapol ones araldited to them. Apparently the old Lima Deltic chassis is a direct fit but unfortunately the bogie frames are too short being originally intended for a HO version. I have seen two different shades of paint for sale for this loco, one is like yours, the one I used is much paler but both have said 'prototype deltic' on them. I probably also used the wrong shade of yellow for the lining but it still looks the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 French Blue it said on the rattle can from a Cyprus equivalent of Halfords. Close enough for me on a dark night.The transfers came with the Dapol kit and likely have faded.I have some Shaw-Plan aftermarket windows to fit, but they look fiddly as well.All will be done in due course.I had this to refer to for colours.../media/tinymce_upload/9fa021b43a12944029cd786c702c5b6f.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellocoloco Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 @Rana Your clockwork loco looks like one of the Belgian Atlantics - SNCB Type 12 .............very interesting and unusual! I hope you get it going again soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 Hornby 8F 48151 - as preserved, now pending maintenance in full scale - arrived with most detailing fitted, and nothing left over ... so no front steps ... I couldn't locate anything which contained equivalent Hornby front steps, so went to aftermarket brass ones. Obviously turning radius is limited, but also being brass, they're very thin permitting a little more than plastic would have ... I think they look OK. /media/tinymce_upload/37fbfb0f080dbcc31d7e82c1bc3ddcc4.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/47afe7c7dc3dfd0d5e6935d6c3e72e60.jpg Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 To add to yesterday's photos with the steps just fitted, here's one with 'home made' draincocks.Not perfect, but not that bad. /media/tinymce_upload/c69b6dbbbd40f69073338b9b0c996cb9.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/e32509030cbd4561bc0b0d92710e2be1.jpgAl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted December 4, 2019 Share Posted December 4, 2019 Final couple of 8F photos - gold painted, part rubbed off draincocks .... /media/tinymce_upload/642c094d1e03842e5f2ff91f59ab8391.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/69e1e69e97b99f0cbb566872702a64a8.jpgAl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Just made this from an old crane, flat wagon and a wagon chassis plus bits from the bits box. /media/tinymce_upload/f0af4b5827049eab696287a409e8575e.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Interesting. Very nice WTD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Thank you LC. Somewhat freelance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek 19B Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 the in the greenwood island station building and twoplatform canopy kits. Looking good but need to be painted before i go any further.Also Metcalf kit for retaining wall, last ones thankfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buz Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Hi allMy latest is a NO house/media/tinymce_upload/4253a31654976e0d06e6a918aed6950b.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b0c8f6e7688c4cd400e819fb9aef9ab6.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/d681b2669537fb0548711cd24b0a5fa4.jpgLike I said literaly no house 😆 the roof is more grey than shows in the pictures.regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 I received a few more loco crew pairs the other day, so that 8F 48151 is now manned. I've already imposed perhaps 15 photos of it, so no need for any more!!Looks great - draincocks now 'coppered' as the original is - I had painted them 'off-brass' then referred to photos, showing a more Cu-like coloration. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Took a while to find this thread again. I had recently purchased a 'TTS P2 2-8-2' except it isn't - all hardware removed from the tender.That side has been 'amicably agreed' with the seller and locomotive kept - might get a Thompson rebuild to complement it ... Moving on - known to those who own them, Hornby cut HUGE corners with the motors on these.Takin the advice of YT, I purchased what had been described as a Hornby X9108 'King' motor - which is a direct drop-in replacement.It fitted alright, was smooth, ran well, same maximum in both directions, but was SLOW .... even at maximum power - slightly slower than stock, which shouldn't be the case from my experience with Hornby Kings. Curiously, this one had a grey end cap covering the brushes, not black as is normally indicated - probably incorrect - unacceptable but not worth the hassle of arguing unfortunately ... Back onto t'internet and purchased an X6199 - just by appearance alone.AC Models supplied, so arrived virtually next day, as is typical with them ... and ... perfect fit, revs as highly or slightly higher than the Coronation / Merchant Navy spare motors I have which are excellent so a good sign ...This motor has the more-familiar dark grey/black end cap which seems to correspond with the better quality motors in the Hornby steam locomotives. Fitted, soldered, and running perfectly. Gear mesh is fine.I ran it for an hour without body, pulling a small rake - 6 coaches - at moderate speed, then increased and is just slower than a Coronation, not that I would run full speed but I know the performance is there.Slow speed?Now, it's excellent. The previous 3-pole with flywheel was not very impressive, but this can match the others in my slow speed tests! Locomotive looks great, and runs well now. I'm working on the tender internals, but TTS not essential for me at present - plan was to have purchased a digital locomotive, blank it but have it ready if/as/when I convert. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 I have been working on an R855 Flying Scotsman that I bought at the Salvation Army in Christchurch as a runner (for £4 !) from a non-expert guest. It turned out to be a NON runner, not a peep.After a clean up of the armature and lube it ran very well for 4 circuits then started stuttering and running vey badly. I wonder if this is due to a weak magnet and overheating ?From the same chap I bought a Schools class "Haileybury" in black for £20 boxed. A perfect runner and one of the rarest Schools. Listed in Ramsay's at £85 so I really did OK, not to mention a large quantity of rails and express points thrown in free. A lucky day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hi Jimbo, it could be the brushes worn, commutator oiled up ... Try this video: I think James May 'rebuilt' his, so could view that as well. Being old, it could be a broken wire even. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hi Al. Thanks very much for the link. An excellent video, one of the best I have seen. So I will have another go at the FS. I watched the James May video which was ok except for the subtitles getting in the way of some of the work. Your linked video is better. (Sorry, James). The commutator and brushes are ok but I suspect the trouble may be to do with the valve gear fouling, as I noticed there was small piece broken off and missing from the stationary guide retaining bodywork at the front on one side. Maybe a little 2-pack glue will fix it. Then the cost will have gone all the way up to £4.20 ! 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 JP, if it's helped, you're more than welcome!I remember my old FS 40 years ago ..... !!I was a terror - always pulling things apart - Dad was better at putting them back together! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Purchased a 'donor' A4 tender hoping it'll have the shaped - for speaker - weight I require, to replace that missing on my recent P2 purchase.Tender arrived today and seems perfect, so should have something closer to the original, instead of stuffing bits of Pb inside. I've a green Bachmann Class 47 'Thor' which is a gem. Looking at it last night, I realised a couple of the windows had 'fallen in' - glue simply lost adhesion.Fortunately access is relatively easy, including the removal of the cab seating detail, and the glazing - 2 of the doors actually - re-sealed 'invisibly' - no smears. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_duck Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 I decided to replace the motor on my Hornby P2 TTS as it has never run very well even from new. I tried changing CV values as per various threads on here and did run it in as per my other locos but it was still very jerky when moving off and was never smooth even at speed. I followed the video on You Tube by MikesMovies and replaced the existing 3 pole motor with a fly wheel for a 5 pole X9108 from Peters Spares.Tested it before putting it all back together and it ran fine. Then tried it again on the layout and nothing. I’ve done this several times and sometimes it runs, other times nothing. No movement or sound. I’ve tested the decoder in an alternative loco and it is fine. I think I must of done something to the electrical pick ups as sometimes it runs and other times nothing. So I’m now looking at the contacts to see what I might have done. When it does run it does appear much smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Donall your other locos run perfectly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Try changing CV150 to a value of 1..........this has proved to get rid of the jerky running at slow speeds.........details in the TTS instruction manual in the motor control Algorithm section........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_duck Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hi Walkingthedog.They all run fine. I was running in my Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle (R3803TTS) for a couple of hours earlier with no problems. Not wanting to get too technical .... 'but if i wiggle it a bit' it will often start so it must be a loose connection somewhere but i just cannot see it at the moment. ----Hi Howbiman. I spent ages messing with the CV settings on the P2 and the Duke of Gloucester and compared to later TTS locos they have never run as i expect. Gadwall, Fying Scotsman all ran much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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