Jump to content

What's on your workbench?


81F

Recommended Posts

A second hand Peco(?) signal box being repainted. Took out all the existing glazing as the prev owner had installed this before painting the frames, resulting in bad smudges. I have some fresh perspex to replace it with. The front catwalk has disappeared so I'll need to fabricate a new one as well and also install a hand rail. Nowhere on my diddy layout to place it though! All enjoyable stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some good quality pine timber picked up from the local DIY store. This was pre - cut for me, so I know the legnths are exact and I would be able to fit it in a car. This will be used to make the baseboard frames using the glue and screw technique (3mm drill bit with No. 8 screw). There will be 5 frames so the baseboard is modular, in case I ever have to move it. Plywood will be used on the top and will probabily be picked up next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kind of on the workbench...

 

I have decided to update my trackplan and other files in a rather old voice activated software package I have for running trains - more to keep it all up to date than anything else. This involves updating the loco database file and carrying out the equivalent of making a trackplan in RM but instead of drag and drop I have to write code specifying what it is I want to lay (e.g straight or curve or point and if left or right hand, and 45 or 90) then tell of its (clock) rotation so it sits correctly on screen, then finally its grid x and y coordinates. 

 

Unfortunately although it was playing nicely yesterday after I sorted the IP address (shades of RM handheld here) today the router has allocated a different IP address and although I have amended the various config files to suit its still playing silly beggars and not loading the trackplan - grrrrrr.

 

I may just decide to paint my Deltic instead with French Blue acrylic that looks nothing like the shade in the photos I have of the prototype. or I may try to fit a TTS decoder and sugar cube into my Baccy Jinty.

 

So many jobs and so little time.

Rob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The quick answer is 'too much'. Apart from not finding the time to actually work on my trains, a lot of time is spent trying to find suitable parts.  There are 3 pendolino coaches awaiting wheels, bogies, weights and couplings (more particularly the right screws as the coach couplings dont come with them), another 2 needing pantographs, an APT that needs a coupling (and eventually lighting), and couple of old HST's awaiting an led lighting upgrade, a purple 395 awaiting coaches, 2 beyer-garretts awaiting sound chips fitted, and then there are others in a box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday and today I painted the Deltic kit body but didn’t use a primer so although the acrylic paint is nice it scratches off far too easily. Schoolboy error there. I have a Class 40 chassis that was earmarked for the Deltic but the bogie pivots are all wrong so I can’t use it without some serious cut and shut work.

 

I fitted a TTS 4F decoder to my Bachmann Jinty 3F using a sugar cube in the cab. The 4F sounds suit it and the tone is good. I had to rework the half barrel weight in the front of the boiler to get the TTS decoder in there with it, took about 3mm off the depth. It had a sleeved R8249 in there previously.

 

Next up was fitting TTS into the Merchant Navy in lieu of the Sapphire it was running with. A bit of trimming of the body allowed a micro cube speaker to sit on the chassis ahead of the decoder socket so the conversion to sound was the simplest I have done so far. Problem now is although it programmed to its new address it won’t run reliably, so I reverted to a blanking plate and now can’t get any continuity twixt wheels and motor. There is one wire from the drawbar to the DCC socket then feeds through the chassis block to one insulated loco pickup. The other loco pickup relies upon a simple peg on the chassis block contacting the pickup on that side. I don’t like using the chassis for pickup power, much preferring proper wire twixt places. I think I will solder feeds direct to the pickups and insulate them both from the chassis.

 

Then just for fun after completing the changes to my existing trackplan as spoken about earlier, I decided to type up the xml code to draw the operating track plan for my next UK layout so its ready for when I get somewhere to build the thing.  Its just the same as doing it in RM but without the handy drag and drop facility. I designed the plan in Scarm and used a printout to mark up my x-y grid that locates the track parts and points. Each track part has 8 possible clock positions so the first job was to write all the options to screen for quick reference later as I type up the plan.

 

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Currently under construction the Wills Island Platform Shelter (SS78). You can see the real thing at Clapham Junction. All parts are now painted. One small problem - this is designed to sit under the Wills Canopy (SS54), and all of my canopy's are Ratio. I'm building this first, as Platforms 3-4 do not, as yet, have a canopy. I will build the Ratio canopy, hopefully with some minor modifications to fit over the shelter - fingers crossed.

Also branchline platform which has the Bachmann Scenecraft Shillingstone Station building on it, has been extended so that the Shillingstone Parcels Office can be used ( it's been sitting in the cupboard for months). Currently all stock barring a Class 08 and gaurds van, have been removed from the layout. There was a lot of dust accumulating, and as I haven't run any loco's for a while, the track needs a really good clean. So  for a short time all services are suspended!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Colin

Its the DCC Ready 35012 rebuilt one from the R1038 Boxed Set.

The speaker is a tiny Zimo micro and sits on the chassis immediately ahead of the decoder socket. I had to cut a small part of the deck away to make room for it. I could have gotten a larger one in there but I only bought 2 and the bigger one went in my Jinty.

The decoder pokes into the smokebox area.

Unfortunately the lid is back on, that was a struggle with the new wires and I didn't take any pictures.I also binned the factory pickups and made some from veroboard and 0.45mm handrail wire.

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Just Assembling another one of my 3d printed 6 wheeled GWR siphon Kits. Body painted, chassis is still in grey undercoat as I cannot remember where I put the Markits  turned metal buffers and brass wheel bearings!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After seeing on one of these forums that the replacement 040 motors were only £2.99 from Hornby as opposed to silly prices elsewhere I bought a few. Having several broken ones I decided to open one up that would run if started manually but not start on its own.

There is still plenty of carbon on the brushes but there is a loose brass ring which appears to have come off from behind the commutator.I am not going to fix the motor but thought people might like to see one of these in a dismantled state. The plastic bit at the front hold the front bearing and the brushes. The metal bit at the back holds the magnets And back bearing. The armature looks clean and in good condition. Such a shame that with a bit more design these could be made repairable, instead they are an unsustainable throwaway item. /media/tinymce_upload/472188264b64ee185d3a4f3bdbbb9f8a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I am installing direction lights using red/white dual leds to a TTS Class 40 and a Dapol kit Deltic DP!. Just got to prove the circuit on my breadboard to make sure the rear reds don't draw current from the front whites, else its into the realms of fiddling with resistor values and I only have 1K or 10K ones.

I know the Deltic didn't run with electric lights, only steam era lanterns, but I like my bi-colour leds and as it won't be painted exactly like the prototype I can say its the evolved version with lights. Now should I go for the 5mm big headlight as well.

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob - just curious as to which Merchant Navy you are adding sound to ...

...Any photographs of the fitted speaker?

 

Colin

Picture of the Zimo Micro Cube in the MN for you. I did have to cut away a bit of the deck over its head for clearance.

Rob

/media/tinymce_upload/a4d3d726cecbfd7d5afb85b6b5cbb3df.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HST 125 dummy &  power cars Previous owner must have used 3 in one oil to lube the axels. The oil has gone hard and sticky and is stopping the wheels on the dummy car from running smoothly. Same with the power car although the loco actually runs very very well! It's also on the outside of the wheels! This loco was sold as 'spares/repair' because the motor screeched every so often. Strangely it just needed oiling but I never got 'round to a proper service 'till now. Body is very good too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Returned my ‘Tornado’ to the bench to re-locate the speaker into the loco body from the tender.  Got a sugar cube and some black tack, pushed it gently into the smoke box until it stuck to the door. Joined the wires up, test run and a lovely job, much better sound compar3d to the speaker supplied.  Thanks to all who suggested sugar cubes as an improved speaker, mightily pleased.

Rod

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went to move Mallard out of the way of my Class 40 track running trials and it was a case of motor turning but not driving the wheels. Off to the doctors for that one. Pulled it to bits and no fault found - annoying as it was a clear case of stripped gears.

Class 40 lights, the circuit for which was proven on the bench, showed odd workings on track (4 reds with F0 off), investigation showed a solder bridge on the decoder socket, fixed that and all is now well but the lights are tad bright with a 1K resistor limiting current to 2 x whites and 2 x reds. Also the 40 is a pig to rail due to all those wheels. Wobbly centre axle and extra pony wheels. It runs nice though and the sound is good.

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitted metal wheels to my newly-acquired Triang Blue Pullman set.  Then turned to passengers and interior lighting. The Parlour Car has zero space for my favoured PP3 battery lighting so reluctantly installed a Train-Tech motion-activated LED set-up. Don't like 'em much due to short battery life. Ah well .... I toyed with the idea of connecting current from the dummy loco but chickened out. Maybe I'll put a headlight on the spare powered loco. I don't think it would look out of place on my "heritage" layout.  (Pause for groans from the Purists 😢 ).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bought a Tri-ang power bogie as spares, the owner was unsure if it went.  It had the wrong wheelsets(one set off an emu and the other off a class 31/35/37) and the power unit was tilted due to the different wheelset sizes.  The brushes were shot, the picukp spring needs replacing and magnet is weak, however was pleasantly suprised as the armature is ok. Spotted a couple of dock shunter bodies going dirt cheap on the well known auction site the other week so a dock shunter build project with one of my LED lighting boards is on the cards.

/media/tinymce_upload/e43bb28415fef332e644eb3740ce578b.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/85b11136809597d2cd5ffcca0797514e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dock shunter is taking shape as time permits, as I have had a little spare time this weekend I have added some good used brushes and a coupling and a new S.4044 from stock.  Still missing the correct S.1055 screw for the S.4044 top mounting bracket as I am out of stock until a local supplier makes me another batch of 2000. Must hunt another used coupling out for the rear.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/1eb6c019b89e68bd219cde70f4c3a305.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have made a start on converting my old triang pullman coaches into my version of the 2 tone blue articulated coronation coaches, here are a few pictures of where i have got to so far, this may take a few more weeks to complete, cheers

/media/tinymce_upload/716a65d5acf4004da642b8cc63f53d4a.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/c21390ce446d783ddcbdcaf998291a40.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/a7a56027913b6ab6765d310852ba1cc5.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/c30fda5a229a4b483e5abbda3ef8b90e.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/15f3152b541ab2a876dfdd60c00570fa.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/26e4a241af510be6cea70372126f5268.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/87e2c77f9649e3a39c17918c0a106434.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/d1bd56cc4cbb0db64bf98f62da9fca8b.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/5eebfc984dae47c8d0fb534c009c9a48.JPG

/media/tinymce_upload/e76c634fee8db96702303f7d6ba75a55.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 @Dynax,

 

I have at least two of these coaches in rather poor condition so yo might have saved them from the bin! Can you tell me what size nut/bolt combination you are using to hold the bogies on or will you eventually re-rivit them?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 @Dynax,

 

I have at least two of these coaches in rather poor condition so yo might have saved them from the bin! Can you tell me what size nut/bolt combination you are using to hold the bogies on or will you eventually re-rivit them?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

Hi Steve, the bolts are M4 x 16mm long countersunk head, and using half lock nuts as the profile is slimmer than a standard nut, they are longer than needed and will eventually be cut to a more sensible length, these will also be used as part of the lighting power circuit, just as an aside i could have used M3 bolts/nuts but the M4 heads fit nice and snug in the existing holes and once tight they sit flush with the floor, HTH,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...