walkingthedog Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Sounds like the puckups aren't always in contact with the wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 I've just received a TTS P2 which somebody described as new ... except ... the tender was featherweight - no weight, speaker or TTS chip - blanked off ...That side was 'accommodated' so no gripes. I did notice that the blades on the tender pickups were straight, as if the chassis was new and 'not adjusted'.I removed the base, then one-by-one removed each axle, and gently flexed the pick-up fingers - all straight and touching when I move fully from one side to the other. I've since received a 'donor' A4 tender, and have replaced the stock tender weight - so I can re-screw the plug socket instead of it hanging in the air ... more weight added as well. Mine runs just fine - I replaced the grubby 3-pole with flywheel motor with a 5-pole skew - X6199 fitted perfectly and it flies nicely. I'd check the contacts, and wires.Is the chip 'wrong way around' by any chance? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_duck Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hi |Atom3624. I don't think the decoder is in the wrong way as it will work as expected at times. I do think it is the contacts, maybe i have jiggered something while working on it. So tomorrow i will check the electrical contacts and make sure they make proper contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Good luck m_d, it's a lovely looking locomotive, which now should be running well with that 5-pole motor. I received an X9014, but the brush end cap was a lighter grey, and performance was no different to the 3-pole apart from being smoother. Does your have a near-black end cap / brushes cover? (They seem to be the best.) Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_duck Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I bought two motors and they were both black. I'll do some more testing today but a 12 week old black labrador puppy, 2 young kids and work all seem to get in the way of me playing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony57 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 I started to give my loco collection a chance to have a run on a small circle of Super 4 track lately.So far I have done about 50 which is 20% of my collection, found a few failures several were quick fixes couple of others are due to dead magnets in particular the MK1 motor bogies in 3 Transcontinenal Class F7s being they were made in 1955 I can not complain to much.However I found out just how clever Triang were, one of my R59 2 6 2t 3MT tank loco's motion bracket had broken I thought that's had it will not be able to get a replacement, so I checked the service sheet 9 only to find out it was a princess motion bracket S5056 which I had spares of and the cylinder block is also the princess over version X61 which I have a couple of spares of should I break one.I wonder how many of todays locos have inter changeable parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 My DCC "City of Winchester" seems to have forgotten its address and won't run either on Address 3. Runs ok on analogue. So it is back to the programming track to see if I can rectify things. The loco had just been sitting quietly in a chest of drawers or a few months without being disturbed. Hibernating ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 Only the earlier R.59 Standard 3MT 2-6-2T locos used the original type of Princess Cylinder Block and the associated motion bracket. Later, 1961 onwards, 2-6-2 Tank Locomotives use a unique cylinder block, which can break easily due to the hole in the centre to clear the mounting for the Seuthe type smoke unit, as fitted to the R.59S until the re-release of the model in 1969, when a small Synchrosmoke unit was fitted...the cylinder block however retained the hole. The motion bracket from 1961 onwards is also unique to this model, and the two versions of the Continental Prairie tank Locomotives, which use the same chassis as the R.59. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek 19B Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 H class 31551 new motor arrived this morning replaced and just being run in . Plus the usual mix of buildings/tunnels / bridges to start or complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSFan72 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 This is reall a 3-in-1! I have just about finished the main Scalescenes Industrial Boxfile Layout. To complement that I have also been modifying my 48DS and Sentinel to suit. Both of these are now fully fitted with sound and lights. The Ruston and Hornsby has a zimo sound chip in and a supercap for stay alive. It has working front, rear and cab lights. In shunting mode both end spot lights are on. They are also able to be run as directional or independently on all the time. The cab light is perhaps a bit dull - really down to the tiny LED I used (same as the spotlights). The Sentinel was more of a challenge. Also using the same zimo sound chip (both are hardwired) I couldn't get a supercap in for stay alive os have 5 tantalums under the chassis. I think I can fit another 10 if I need to.....This has working beacon, fully independent marker lights, cab light and headlights at both ends. It needed all 8 functions on the decoder including amplifying the 2 logic level outputs. /media/tinymce_upload/e96d6c95d0a51a61915442f4c061f2fb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twintop Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 A Bachmann Class 03 split chassis D2012 in green livery.The engine has been dead for some time so last week I finally got around to taking it apart. I messed about for a good while testing and cleaning the loco, but whilst the motor would run, it was intermittent. I finally twigged that there was a loose wire on the armature and so deduced that was terminal as I could not see where to attach it and even if I had known it looked pretty inaccessible.So - I e-mailed the service department and the end result is a new motor for £19 inc P + P and so it is like having a new engine again. I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the loco and so it is now quite happliy trundling around hauling two open wagons and a brake van.I also had to renew the motor on my Bachmann class 04 a few years back, so maybe the motors are a weak point.I also have a Hornby 2P awaiting traction tyres, but they are out of stock at Hornby. Lastly, I am on with repairing/constructing/painting Ratio LMS round post signals/Pratt truss gantries as a few are needed on the layout as I extended the main station a few years ago and never got around to signalling the additional tracks. They are fiddly to make and paint though, so it does take a good while. I am on with renovating my layout as it has got a bit tired/needs finishing in places, so I am selecting zones and doing everything that needs to be done to get it up to scratch in the zone before moving on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 I've found that Bachmann are superb at presentation and detail on the bodywork of steam locomotives - and smaller shunters in this case - but skimp hugely in the chassis department. I had a Jubilee a couple of years ago - Hong Kong which is a more recent one - to which I had to do the same, get a replacement motor. It's not a model-bashing exercise, but Hornby generally have brass / oilite bushes ("bearings") for their driven wheel axles which Bachmann don't in many cases.They also use 3-pole motors in even higher priced steam locomotives. Hornby use 5-pole motors on (nearly) all of their premium steam locomotives, and the difference is noticeable. Strangely, the larger diesel chassis are near-top-notch - as good as Hornby's 50, 56, 60 for example. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Hi LMSFan 72 did you squeeze it all inside a boxfile? It looks as though there is an off scene fiddle yard which I presume is extra. Is that a sector plate? A few more pictures would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSFan72 Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Hi LMSFan 72 did you squeeze it all inside a boxfile? It looks as though there is an off scene fiddle yard which I presume is extra. Is that a sector plate? A few more pictures would be appreciated.Yes, all inside a boxfile. At the moment there is nothing off scene but I am planning on making a 2 road traverser powerd by a stepper motor and controlled by dcc. That way I can run the whole thing with JMRI (or railmaster) and just have it run through a program as a shunting puzzle..... when I get round to it!! I will post a birds-eye view separately.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSFan72 Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 /media/tinymce_upload/8d34c2d032b01b8cb10b9eda32b82a43.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony57 Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Apart from the 3 Triang Transcontinental Overhead Looomotives that I will be totally rewireing and 3 others with solder joint failures. I have found 8 other locomotive mainly Triang which are non or very poor runners due to very weak magnets with 30 plus others that all could do with remagnetising boost. With 200 plus locos it would be cost effective for me to buy or hire a remagnetiser rather then send the motors out for repair. Would be nice if Hornby made and sold a remagnetiser. Does anyone know someone who has a remagnetiser for hire or sale, [ One of the few times I wish there was a private email facility on this forum.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 One of my favourites is a Bachmann 21-pin DCC blank converted Class 25.It's weathered, mainly by Bachmann, but a little extra by me. It was a bit of a bargain, which is nice. I had noticed it had started on being gnarly, so I opened it up, dropped the chassis and gave it a reasonable grease and oil. All super smooth again.Excellent little locomotive. Alank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LY shunter Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Now that we are all confined to home we have no excuse not to do some modelingThis is my latest build of a glass wagon built for carring glass in crates Only two of this type were ever builtI only had a side and end plan and was unable to find any photos of one so had to guess some of the strutsThe two ends and bogies came from a Triang well wagon of 1960 vintage and the rest had to be scratch builtI have no idea who wanted a 30ft long sheet of glass/media/tinymce_upload/895baaf79dbc8520c1abc852259aacca.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LY shunter Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Somebody once asked how I fitted couplins to old bogies , i did reply but it got lost in the upload but i did not send it again so this is my method. To fit the coupling to a metal bogie I cut the front end of the bogie to the required length , then drill and tap a hole 8 BA.Fit the new coupling Bachmann part 36-026 adding washers to get the coupling hight correct depending on the size of wheelsThe two end holes at the side of the of the coupling are cut offIf you do not have a tap a 8BA or 2mm nut and bolt will do just as wellOn plastic bogies the recess on the underside of the coupling is just the correct width to glue in a Dapol coupling part no COUPNEM00, adjusting the hight with styrene packing.I also fit Peco Hardlon bearings part no R15 and new wheels.The hardlon bearings are wider than brass ones and by drilling one side 2.6 mm give a tight fit.The other side is drilled 2.7mm for a slack fit and this bearing put in from the outside after fitting the wheels and held in place with epoxy.I have a small milling machine so cut a slot in the bogie to reduce the hight of the wagon./media/tinymce_upload/a6d94a09cac03cdc33fe115520596e6f.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDR Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 The diagram 2/172 BR bogie glass well wagon (Glass EO) (nice model by the way!) was built at Lancing in Sussex in 1954, to an LNER design (B902500 & B902501). There is a 3mm to 1 foot drawing in "British Railways Wagons, the first half million", by Don Rowland. Bogie glass wagons were typically LNER, they had five, Two Well Glass 'N' 150651 & 150652 built to diagram 36 in 1927 and three Well Glass 'O' 235247 to 235249 built to diagram 138 in 1938. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Curiosity and cats, but I purchased a 'DC powered Class 08 shunter light kit', and have started disassembling the 08. Brilliant model and interesting that you can safely remove the cab from the body! If I have some success, I will post some photos!I'm not too confident so am approaching very slowly and cautiously! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Very brief one this .... Realised my Bachman BR Class 4-6-0 didn't have a holed chimney, so I drilled out the 'double' smoke stack. Very simple and very successful = with a little patience. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 I had some extra locomotive crew, waiting for the W1 and others at the end of the year ... Thought I'd 'detail' the old J94 - opened it up, permitted to oil and grease it where I've never done before - 'lick of paint' on various handles and pipes and levers ... and fitted the crew. Fitted the locomotive crew - look rough when in close-up, but great at normal size. /media/tinymce_upload/185ff8d9b362e6adb5b28f518209a7e1.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/073b8b22e8746041f13dcafa1ae85afa.jpgAl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I have been meaning to fix these four for a while now and finally got time. All four are runners but could do with some TLC. I intend using some of the spare dock shunter chassis I have to upgrade to smooth better profiled wheels and replace the broken pantographs on the second OH TC loco with Jouef items In the same way I have with the other example. I can also re-wire than all and replace all the bulbs. I have not decided whether to finish the second OH loco the same as the other or paint into two tone green. I also have another one somewhere in poor condition. /media/tinymce_upload/89caca30d8641b7ccd6b2e4c454085b5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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