What's on your workbench?

[96RAF]

@34

If you post a picture and it baulks at a second one, place your cursor ahead of the first picture and you should be able to lodge it there. Repeat as necessary for extra photos.

I have also typed in all my text first leaving a single line space for each photo and placed these bottom of post upwards.

Seems to work for me on iPad.

[34015]

Thanks 96RAF I will keep that in mind for the future

[96RAF]

Thanks 96RAF I will keep that in mind for the future

 

 

Try editing your first post to insert the second picture and then you can delete the second post.

Use the three dots to the right side of the post and pick edit or delete.

[RB51]

Nigel, your post has been removed from view. Whilst the subject is interesting your signature contains a link to your website where you offer items for sale. That is not permitted on this forum.

You have been asked to remove the business URL in the past. Doing so would allow you to post.

R-

[threelink]

A device to permit hands-free and invisible coupling and uncoupling of 00 stock fitted with near scale link couplings (Smiths or similar) just by pulling a lever. It's been on the bench for 30 years and driven my son and me nearly mad. It's off the bench now because, finally, it works. It is invisible at rest, all but invisible in operation and couples realistically and reliably using the link couplings for their intended purpose in prototypical manner - no more Big Hand From The Sky holding a bit of bent wire. Uncoupling is just as reliable and realistic. We call it our Shunter's Pole. All I have to do now is make a dozen or so copies to kit out my layout. Oh happy, happy day!

[atom3624]

I have one of the latest Coronation pacifics, none other than 6220 Coronation herself, and have had her for several months.

Since purchase, she has performed very well, but since the purchase of the rake of 9 lit Coronation Scot coaches, she's encountered several problems ... which ended up in my replacing the final drive gear wheel on the centre driver - as the original had stripped - runs perfectly ...

Since this - possibly self-incurred - I've had intermittent pickup problems, which appear to indicate only the tender powers the locomotive, then since then, nothing!

I've found several wires broken, and that horrible 4-pin plug seems to have issues - I really dislike them. I understand the background and had intentions on going DCC one day - currently I've a very substantial collection, but only DC.

To ensure this beautiful beast runs acceptably, bearing in mind I may never run DCC, and this is my favourite Stanier pacific - perhaps! - so I've no intention of any selling on, I decided to replace the 4-pin with a sturdier-wired 4-pin, directly power the locomotive, and split to the directly wired - DCC adaptor by-passed - tender.

Wasn't easy with a family on full bore peripherally, including one accidentally breaking a small table - resolved - but it now works perfectly, and the locomotive can run 'light' if ever needed as well (no shorting when hooked up).

Quite a major project which meant I delayed watching the F1 qualifying, but a successful modification - still with the now-modified 4-pin plug.

Al.

[Rana Temporia]

I have just started work on the Yorkshire Engineering Diesel Electric 3D printed shunter off an online auction site that uses a modified Tri-ang/Hornby Nellie type chassis. I just realised I have been working on one with one of the rubbishy plastic cogs although it seems Ok at the moment. I have a spare brass set so may change it over.

The print is very finely detailed and almost to moulded standard. It is a bit thin in places, I have already damaged the front buffer beam but other than that I’m happy with it so far.

I was thinking this may be a good potential prototype for a Hornby loco in the chap range, although the current 040 chassis wouldn’t fit, some tool boxes or similar would need to be added to accommodate the motor and the retaining spring. The bonnet is also high enough to accommodate the standard clockwork mechanism which would potentially give another use for it.

[atom3624]

Looks good RT.

I remember one of my original locomotives was Polly - with brass gears and that famous spring pickup wire.

Superfast - if the screws hadn't loosened on the wheels!!

Al.

[GWR LNER fan 4472]

A few little things I've been doing over the past month or so.

Firstly I made some pipe loads. I took a pipe cutter to an old Ikea hanging bag frame, sprayed it black and tied the smaller lengths together with tiny elastic bands left over from when I had braces. Over all a decent little build in my opinion. Unfortunately, I didn't actually have any suitable wagons on which to carry the pipe loads, but just recently I found a second hand Bachmann well wagon for £9, which will do for now. Can't wait till the shows open up again so I can get some more!

Another thing I've been doing is detailing my old Lima 9400 class. The new Bachmann one is very attractive, however I don't have the money nor the justification to get one at the moment, so I was inspired to clean up the Lima one. First off, I repainted the whistles and chimney cap that had got battered over the years, also painted the buffer beam coupling from red to black. The Lima moulding has the smoke box number plate, even though there's no number applied (wasn't until BR took over, I believe). Therefore, my bit of artistic license here means this loco is portrayed in its guise shortly after nationalisation, still in its GWR livery, but for whatever reason already has the smoke box number plate fixed before relivery into BR guise. I intend to fit one at some point. In addition, I was going to paint the rusted handrails, but I think they give a bit of character. That along with the comparatively-dull green coat suggests a bit of hard work and little cleaning. Not too sure of the status of the real 9400 immediately post nationalisation, but I quite like my finished result.

I also tackled the poor running of this engine by sticking some stones in the smoke box and boiler area to add a bit of weight. Rudimentary, I know, but it seems to do the trick and it runs a lot better now.

[96RAF]

Looking good G&L. I like the elastic bands to represent strapping and that lowmac looks the part. Very satisfying when you can get a loco to look good as well as run properly all the time.

Stones for weight. I know many ships had concrete poured for ballast but also to seal leaks. It was reputed Ark Royal carried more concrete than fuel and payload.

[Stephen in Kerry]

@Rana Temporia The 3D printed model of the shunter is exactly what I'm looking for, as it's similar to one my dad drove for 30 years (see another thread). I can't find it in it's industrial livery (red), so I'd like to get an unpainted version such as yours.

Can you point me to the dealer (with a link) please?

Thanks for any help,

Stephen

[LTSR_NSE]

Bump post to generate 87th page & make URL work.

[GWR LNER fan 4472]

Looking good G&L. I like the elastic bands to represent strapping and that lowmac looks the part. Very satisfying when you can get a loco to look good as well as run properly all the time.

Stones for weight. I know many ships had concrete poured for ballast but also to seal leaks. It was reputed Ark Royal carried more concrete than fuel and payload.

 

 

Thanks 96RAF, I am slowly building my creativity in the 'scratch building' world, mainly down to not wanting to waste perfectly good materials. And having just built and fitted out a house, we have plenty of offcuts lying about, which are proving to be very useful inspiration. I think I posted about this before in this thread regarding sprinkler caps as water towers, breeze block 'crumbs' as ballast etc. Very much enjoying learning more in this aspect of the hobby!

Now which Ark Royal would that be? My grandpa was on MkIV in the '50s as a chief mechanic on the aircraft I believe.

[Rana Temporia]

Did a bit more work on the YE diesel shunter. Impressed with the quality of this as a print. You can get a brass kit version of this prototype too but I am happy with one that uses a RTR chassis. Luckily this has a longer than usual wheelbase.

Just glazing and some painting to finish off and then nameplates.

[Twintop]

A Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T split chassis circa 25 years old.

Part of the valve gear - a very tiny rectangular piece of metal with a hole in fell off months ago. I managed to press fit it back on with great difficulty, but it fell off when running on the layout, never to be seen again.

I found the other day on E-bay a replacement set of valve gear and the parts were soon delivered. However, the side I wanted was faulty - the part I had lost was also detached, but seems faulty anyway. So I worked out that I could use part of the good new side but cannot get the hexagon screw off to get the valve gear off. I am using pliers which I realise is not ideal but they should be able to do the job.

So I am reverting to using the part that fell off the new valve gear, but I need to drill it out and then this time will use a tiny bit of araldite to it to secure it, but will have to be careful as there is a moving piece of valve linkage that fits on the spigot that this plate fastens to.

In the meantime, is there a particular way to get the hexagonal headed screw off that fastens the gear to the centre wheel. or will it just be seized after 25 years ? Is it by any chance a LH tread ?

[Twintop]

A Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T split chassis circa 25 years old.

Part of the valve gear - a very tiny rectangular piece of metal with a hole in fell off months ago. I managed to press fit it back on with great difficulty, but it fell off when running on the layout, never to be seen again.

I found the other day on E-bay a replacement set of valve gear and the parts were soon delivered. However, the side I wanted was faulty - the part I had lost was also detached, but seems faulty anyway. So I worked out that I could use part of the good new side but cannot get the hexagon screw off to get the valve gear off. I am using pliers which I realise is not ideal but they should be able to do the job.

So I am reverting to using the part that fell off the new valve gear, but I need to drill it out and then this time will use a tiny bit of araldite to it to secure it, but will have to be careful as there is a moving piece of valve linkage that fits on the spigot that this plate fastens to.

In the meantime, is there a particular way to get the hexagonal headed screw off that fastens the gear to the centre wheel. or will it just be seized after 25 years ? Is it by any chance a LH tread ?

[Twintop]

I had another look at the internet and the valve gear, and the crankpin is a push fit, so managed to ease it off.

So, I thought I would then be able to replace most of the valve gear from the one "good" side I had got new, but as soon as I touched it, that fell apart as well. Looks like I have been sold seconds. On closer examination, a spigot on both sides is simply not long enough compared to my original one. Possibly the process of fastening the part onto the spigot weakened the metal and caused it to fracture.

However, no point complaining as I eased out a broken small end of the spigot that was lodged in the part I was needing. I should be able to use it, so in effect I have got the part I needed, so end result should be fine. It would have been better to have been able to replace the whole of the valve gear as one lot rather than try and fasten this part on though.

No doubt I will find the original on the layout at some point.

[Bulleidboy]

Hornby Merchant Navy Class "United States Lines" is getting an upgrade - new etched brass nameplates and real coal. In doing this, an interesting piece of information came to light. The new nameplates came from Modelmaster Jackson-Evans, and there were two different "insignia" to go in the centre of the nameplate. A bit of research (I have a fairly comprehensive library on Merchant Navy Class locomotives) showed that the "flag" insignia was changed in 1951 (prior to rebuild - 1957) to a ships wheel with the company logo within the wheel - so the insignia on the Hornby loco is wrong - it doesn't matter - very few people look that carefully.

Another piece of information, if you fitting new nameplates to M/N loco's, is that flag should be shown flowing behind the flagpole when the loco is moving forwards - so the "flag" insignia's are "handed" - you need to get them on the correct side of the locomotive.

[LMSFan72]

Looking good BB, nice detail touches.

[LMSFan72]

I had an old 50035 Ark Royal in my "to fix" drawer. It has the PCB with the fault where the common +ve from the decoder is connected to the common -ve from the on-board voltage regulator so would blow the decoder. I saw that 50008 Thunderer has just been repainted and thought I'd give it a go....

A different approach to my GBRF ones that I did because, since the main colour is a darkish grey, I didn't strip the loco, I just removed the old numbers and large logo and then primed and painted. Saves on risking ruining the movable grills and the doors. I used a rattle can of the right colour RAL 7043 (the Rail Adventure website has the colours for hobbyists to use!) that was off of eBay and masked appropriately. It came out pretty well... just waiting on the nameplates to become available...

I then set about DCC sound. I had a TTS class 50 decoder available. However, I wanted to have independently switched lights at each end. So, I set about modifying the PCB:

1. I cut the trace from the NEM socket for the blue wire to so it is "dead" on the board. It doesn't need that positive as the on-board regulator supplies the positive voltage to the loco circuit
2. I then removed the resistors for the end 2 lights from the PCB. This way the TTS only operates end 1.
3. I used a function only decoder to switch end 2.
4. However, the lights boards in the cabs are common negative. I needed them common positive for end 2. So, I simple removed them, de-soldered the LEDs and reversed them and soldered them back.
5. That then made the decoder connections simple. I re-used the PCB contacts for end 2, inserting 2K1 resistors in the negative leads and connected it all back up
6. I only used the green and purple wires, setting them directional and moving their function to F9. That way I can set the address the same as the TTS and the end 2 lights are switched on when the cold start over-ride is on.
7. I did replace the speaker on the TTS chip, too.

Pretty happy with the results:

[atom3624]

2 locomotives require attention - for now.

1. An old Bachmann Class 25 (non-lit). Lighting kit will be coming from Stickswipe in the next month. For now the seller never replied when I asked where the detail pack containing the handrails were. Jenni of Bachmann sorted me out pretty quickly - as usual - excellent spares supply service from Bachmann.
2. Hornby (new) Streamlined 6220 Coronation. Mentioned several times the new 9-coach Coronation rake of coaches are 'draggy' - quite a load. I added a little weight to both locomotive and tender - taking the combined weight up to ~600g. This is no more than many other large Pacifics I have, and a normal practice of mine. It appears these Coronations are susceptible to their final drive gears slipping on the driven axle. I already replaced it once, admittedly with that of an older Coronation, and it's required again. I've a spare set of wheels located within Ebay, but I reckon I'll contact Hornby in case they can send a gear / set of wheels as well - never know. As I'd modified the locomotive probably not.

Al.

[96RAF]

Trying out some wireless kit, but not having much luck so far. Can’t get the kit to pair with the app. Probably finger trouble at my end, as I never have any clear instructions to work with in these early days, especially when the apps are just basic lash-ups.

[atom3624]

1. The Class 25 now sports a full set of white-painted handrails - actually looks quite smart.
2. The Class 25 lighting kit is on it's way - some major surgery is required to ensure the headcodes light up - will mull over that one before starting.
3. I have ordered some brass replacement final drive gear wheels for the 6220 new-tool Coronation - should resolve any future possibilities of spinning gear wheels!
4. Hornby have got back to me, requesting batch reference and shipping details - so may be sending a replacement set of wheels anyway.

I'm going to be busy anyway, over the next few weeks' time.

Al.

[Rana Temporia]

I found this old Playcraft diesel shunter with a motor that had disintegrated. I have several working examples of these locos in green and blue but the construction is mainly plastic with the motor glued in and made from a plastic that seems to get brittle and shatter as it gets older. I had always thought that they were HO but a quick check showed it to be very near 4mm scale. A search on the internet showed that someone else had measured one and found some dimensions correct for 4mm and the rest 3.9mm scale.

I started to assemble the parts to build a scale chassis for it but after drawing one up on CAD I realised that the steps would foul any jack shaft drive and it would need more work underneath. I thought about asking whether Judith Edge would Supply the chassis and steps for their version of this loco but then realised I might as well get the whole kit and have a proper scale model.

Someone online has cut up a modern Hornby chassis to fit one which required sticking the motor in as there wasn’t enough room otherwise. I am using an old Tri-ang Nellie chassis with the ends cut back to fit in the body. The wheelbase is way too long, but these locos were also made for industry so this could be a special build. I believe there is still an ex-military one at Snailwell.

There is a very early version of this Playcraft loco which was made in Brown and quite rare. I have seen green ones that the paint has started to rub off with Brown plastic underneath. I believe that it was the first UK model to have the wasp stripes on it. There is till some work to do on the body but it’s getting there.

[atom3624]

I mentioned the Ultrascale brass gear wheel.

I received the pair I ordered, and fitted one to the R3857 6220 Coronation, as per original plan, and once the wheels were quartered properly, all was connected up and Coronation has been circulating for an hour or so this weekend very smoothly, quietly, and without incident.

Excellent alternative gear.

Al.