What's on your workbench?

[96RAF]

It will be interesting to see pictures of that as it progresses Vespa.

[TVR1707822112]

What's on my bench? A load of mess and other rubbish!

I currently got a load of O-16.5 stock which I'm trying to reclaim the chassis from.

I've also got a couple of dioramas which I'm working on (you can find regular updates on my antics on my youtube channel - search for 'TimberValley Productions') as well as working on little odd jobs. A huge layout rewire is coming soon along with a new DCC controller. Exciting times.

Best wishes all

[atom3624]

I momentarily had a replacement Bachmann class 25 chassis there.

Last owner strangely had snipped one wire each end, not permitting the running lights to operate, so they are now resoldered.

Hidden out of sight, and no metal anywhere, so a rare time I've not insulated joined wires - works perfectly!

Red lights restored.

Now to consider a light kit for the headcode!

Al.

[Twintop]

I have recently finished basic servicing of all my locos and DMUs, putting aside any that needed more complicated repairs. During this exercise I have been adding vacuum pipes, brake rodding etc. that came with the locos that I never fitted. One lesson learnt was to be very wary of removing bodies as on a few examples I ended up damaging parts. Worst example was a Bman std 5 split chassis. I removed the pickup plate to get access to oil the gears and did not realise that the wires to the pickups were attached. They came away and now I have a tricky repair to undertake. What I should have done was to release the PCB and that enables about a couple of inches of slack, but hindsight is great!

One bonus is that after I had serviced a Tri-ang Britannia and a Tri-ang class 31 I looked again at why the locos were bouncing over certain Peco points. I had always assumed the wheels were too coarse, but not so - it was simply the back to back measurement. I eased the wheels wider and now they run perfectly on a basic circuit with around 5 points to negotiate. I had read about this on the forum years ago but was convinced it was the coarse flanges.

So - the Britannia is now merrily roaring around the track with 7 Tri-ang mk1s in tow. I must get the smoke to work on it next. Likewise the Green class 31. Both handle 7 coaches with ease.

I have been refurbishing a rake of 10 Dapol 20T tanks. Oiling the axles, cleaning and reattaching ladders, brake gear and couplings that had come adrift over the years and touching up paint that I had missed during construction. I have also pressed on with adding weights and coal loads for another 4 Dapol 21T hoppers to add to the 3 I did a few months ago.

Other minor repairs include re-attaching the tender scoop to the Hornby Britannia and steps to a Bman 08.

I have also started on the more complicate repairs, the aforementioned std 5, and a Bman class 04 with spilt axle bearings. Others needing work are a Tri-ang 2-6-2T, another Tri-ang Britannia and a Bman class 46 with what will be a split coupling in the drive train.

I

[threelink]

Thirteen Triang motor bogies assembled from the parts resulting from the dismanling referred to in my earlier post, plus a few parts from my spares hoard - two EM2s, four Transcontinentals, three Hymeks and four DMU/Blue Pullman. Incredibly, given their age, they all run really well and are quiet as mice. Most are spoken for in outstanding projects but I do neeed to find a couple of motorless Hymeks and EM2s.

[atom3624]

A dapol Class 68 motor to replace the old one in Brutus.

Totally agree with Sam's Trains' conclusion that the traction is excellent, but the motor just doesn't have the oomph!!

Hattons' Class 66 and Accurascale's Deltic prove that powerful motors which perform perfectly well with our control gear exist.

This will be the 3rd motor I've had in Brutus, after and including the original.

Al.

[DarkRedCape]

What are the signs of a dying motor that could be identified as not a track voltage issue?

My locos are all brand new, but I know you can get duds out of the box.

[atom3624]

Definitely losing power - arcing on occasion. Only simple way is to replace.

Thing is, the motor's quite well designed I found out after destroying the old one - the brush mounts are clip in, and the commutator was really dirty.

It's feasible next time, if I can find brushes to fit, I can simply clean the commutator and actually replace the self contained brushes ...

I had to destroy the previous motor, to access the plastic drive cups unfortunately ...

In Sam's Trains' video, he did observe what I have that the locomotives have serious traction, and weight - 680-700g, but unlike the Hattons' 66 or A/Scale 55, it cannot spin it's wheels, and if stuck / stalled, it'll burn out if the controller doesn't cut out - this happened to my 1st motor. The Dapol 68 coupling are known to droop, and as if waiting for my lack of presence, when away (washing dishes) it uncoupled, completed the loop, stalled with power, and burnt out!

The one I'm replacing is the 2nd motor, which has simply approached it's end of life expectancy - I would estimate somewhere between 40-60 hours' running at 75% power - mainly on express passenger duties, but avoiding full power operation.

Al.

[Brew Man]

I've recently bought a couple of R059 Panniers to use as shunters in my goods sidings. Yesterday I fitted a decoder to one but found it ran rather slowly. I noticed that the commutator was very dirty and the brushes quite worn. I have thus decided to renew the brushes on both and, of course give the commutators a thorough clean. I've ordered new brushes and clips from Hornbytriangspares. It's a great site for such things.

What do people find is the best way to clean commutators? I've heard pencil rubbers work well. I'm reluctant to use sand paper for fear of scratching. Also, is there any special attention I should pay to the new brushes to bed them in?

Thanks for any tips.

[threelink]

@BM

In cleaning commutators you are wise to avoid harsh abrasive - as you say it causes scratching which will eat the brushes and cause further fouling of the commutator. My preferred method is gently to polish with Brasso, wash off well with lighter fuel and then to clean out the gaps between the segments with the point of a cocktail stick. I have read that T Cut works as well as Brasso but have not tried it. With new brushes I sometimes shape the centre of the carbon block to match the commutator by a few passes of a round file of appropriate diameter but generally don't bother as they bed themselves in over time.

[Brew Man]

@threelink

Thanks for that. I have both Brasso and T-cut so will use one or the other. I don't have lighter fuel but do have IPA which I guess will work just as well.

[threelink]

@BM

You are welcome. IPA should be fine. I should have added that re-lubrication might be necessary if the lighter fuel/IPA washes away oil from bearings.

[Brew Man]

Oh yes, good point, thanks.

[atom3624]

Well, Brutus' new motor arrived - Dapol Class 68 - and after a fair amount of fathing around to remove the drive cups from the old motor, the replacement was installed, soldered in, and some light running performed.

She's running beautifully.

I kept the lid off initially, to observe the driveshafts were nice and straight - I had to look twice, as they're so straight I thought one wasn't hooked up!

2x Dapol TPE 68's running very nicely, ready for those TPE coaches to arrive - one set of 5.

They're supposed to arrive 'during September' which at this rate is before November I suppose! After 2 years I can wait a little longer!

Al.

[Rana Temporia]

Currently working on these two. The white 3D printed loco is a model of the Manning-Wardle ‘Blackpool’ in its original form from the Garstang and Knott End Railway and I found out that the Lima prairie had a wheelbase that is only 2mm out between the rear two axles, close enough for me especially as the wheels are the correct diameter. I have filed the GWR cylinders down to more closely represent the prototype ones but they are not inclined and too far forward. I have had to make some other changes to the chassis too but I’m happy enough with it. It runs fine. When the LMS took over they made some changes to the front of the tanks so this will be finished in the G&KER maroon with white/black/white lining. The prototype was one of only two standard gauge 2-6-0 tank locos in the British isles apparently! It’s almost ready for priming and painting.

Having some bits of the prairie tank left over I came a cross a non-runner BR version for a pittance that actually ran quite well and the resulting one is a bitsa that now just needs the paint touching up and new whistles. I think it’s the last loco I wanted as a child but never managed to get back then.

Hopefully I can get both sorted over the next few weeks.

[81F]

Just modified a Hornby 101 body to fit a Dapol B4 chassis. The latter was bought off ebay minus its slide rods so I had to fabricate a new pair.

The wheel base is a little too short but I think it looks better than the original and the piston/slidebar arrangement is more like 101s. I dont think I have the nerve to do the Walschaerts valve gear though.

I am tempted to leave the moulded handrails as the colour and "paint" finish is pretty good although I might change the buffers if I can find where I left the set of GWR Dean ones I had spare.

The only problem at the moment is how to secure the body to the chassis, but will look into that once I have fitted a DCC chip

 

[atom3624]

I've had a few enforced days off this week - one of those 'take 'em or lose 'em deals'!!

I purchased a Dapol 4D-022-021 68 027 Splendid in TPE livery - fantastic locomotive ... but ...

For some reason the QC failed to observe missing handrails / grabrails at the bottoms of the main windscreens.

I failed to catch the thread in the relevant RMWeb which confirmed precisely this ...

Dapol had agreed a 'free retrospective fitment service' but one or 2 had complained of glue marks, and I generally don't like to ship any locomotive unless I've sold it ... so hit a deal for them to send me the rails - they did. Fitted today.

Some Class 68's don't have them, but the TPE ones do. I had to do a bit of 'micro-trimming' to ensure a better fit, but looks fine. Still got a few other jobs to attack ... one day!

Al.

[atom3624]

Splendid and Brutus are now running 'acceptably well'.

Another 'another manufacturer's model' I have had on show is an Accurascale Deltic. This is an absolutely superb, super-high-detail model, but one which had been consistently derailing such that I couldn't leave it for one loop for fear of it derailing. Mine is the as preserved KOYLI - Kings Own Yorkshire Light Infantry.

One person on RMWeb had observed that the sprung coupling mechanism could occasionally interfere, and worked better rounding the centre 'point'.

Mine had 2 of the bogie brake chains hanging. I decided to kill 2 birds by both rounding these pointed mouldings and also removing the chains - and it's now 100% reliable - have left it for hours on end without issue at 65-70% - equivalent to a good 75mph scale speed with my rake of 12 coaches.

People on RMWeb are still convinced the chains are not the issue, so I'll try replacing them and see if it's still as reliable. We'll see! I've got some spares coming to ensure I can complete this.

Al.

[Fazy]

81f. that really dose improve the 101 the wheels not being solid is a great improvement by itself. The thinner coupling rods help.

RT, love the tank engine looks a bit of a brut. Have to like big tank engines.

[81F]

On my workbench tonight is a Silver Fox Class 28 Co-Bo mounted on a heavily modified Lima running gear (not sure from what though. The loco was nicely finished but the trip in the post had caused the large internal weight to come loose which may have knocked the non-powered bogie clip off causing this to fall off.

Habing prized the body off (it looks as if it had been secured with impact adhesive, I stripped it down in order hard wire a DCC chip.

In doing so I found that the large weight had been glued to the chassis, but this was uneven which probably reduced the area which came in contact with the glue. I have therefore spent the last hour sawing through the ballast weight, so it sits within a level section of the floor.

I have since superglued the weight into position and am waiting for it to reach strength before trying to put the body back on. But first I need to find a picture online to see which way round it goes!

[GeoffBristol]

two prairie 61xx - one Airfix - gwr - one Hornby BR black. Both bought as non runners.

I have relalised several things. The front bogie looks the same but isn't - the Airfix has a 1.5mm axle and smaller wheel. Hence the little lugs that the axle clips into are only suited to 1.5mm. So - the airfix bogie would go on the Hornby and vice versa - but you cant swap wheelset.

The rear bogie appears identical - with the only difference being the Airfix has a live wheel which feeds one pole to chassis via the axle.

The front piston blocks - which always break - are identical. I bought the damaged Hornby knowing I could get an Airfix piston block moulding as a used spare ( but I cannot find another ! )

Motor wise they are chalk and cheese of course. The Airfix chassis appears to be solid bronze ! - but the Hornby is actually heavier as an engine. That has an impressive chunk of alloy as a chassis and I like the drive cog set up - nice engine.

I have stripped both completely - and rewired the Airfix pickup plate with extra wired chassis feed direct to the brushes. Both motors are fine.

An Airfix gwr just went today for £ 13.50 - missed it by 50p ! - but generally they seem to hold a good price.

I got the black Hornby for £10.50 ! - broken brush wire and snapped front piston guide ( hard to source - still could do with one ?)

[Twintop]

Three peco points, for modifying with jumper wires to eliminate the inherent weakness in ageing points of the pieces of metal under the relates that form the connection. One point was giving a lot of trouble so just thought I would also do the two adjacent points as easy to remove once the first one was out. They are crucial as they form the station throat so no services on the two branch lines at the moment.

Good job I have a fleet of Ribble buses to deputise. So just like the real thing with rail disruption!

Also have a Tri-ang buffet coach side that I have sprayed in maroon with a rattle can to change colour fron blue/grey. Needs a second coat. The coach came with two sides of the same type, but I did not complain as it was only £7!

Essentially I am trying to make one good one out of two.

Also a tri-ang GWR toad brake van. No idea how, but I had a metal chassis and a roof, but no body. So years ago bought a body on line but it was one of those with a box for a lamp on the verandah. So, have hacked that box away and made a floor of card. Next I need the wall with the door in so will conjure something up from card. Not really worth doing it, but keeps me busy.

Still have 4 locos that need substantial repairs, but baulking at them as I know they will be tricky to do. Bman 04 with spilt axles, triang brittania needing a wheel conversion finishing, bman peak with split drive shaft Cup and bman std 4 again with spilt plastic axle bearings. Also a tri-ang 2-6-2 T that needs building back up after chassis work. All do-able, just involved.

[The son of Triangman]

Lots on the workbench at present.

A Wrenn Duchess of Hamilton in LMS wartime Black, needs a light service and a new nameplate transfer.

A Hornby 1973 issue 2P, complete restoration.

A 1974 last issue Hornby Princess Victoria, in need of a full restore

An R.52 jinty 1960, just arrived, needs a full restore.

A light box for my neighbours disabled son who has Downs syndrome

[The son of Triangman]

[The son of Triangman]