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What's on your workbench?


81F

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The Claughton would possibly be more interesting as it would need new valve gear and connecting rod if the drive is to the front axle. Fury was covered in a Railway Modeller article some time ago so anyone with a subscription can get that with all the work that the writer has already done. I can’t remember a recent one for a Claughton but the Lanky Dreadnaughts were covered last year even if it was only the shorter version. I am surprised there hasn’t been an RTR Claughton yet, maybe it’s because there can’t be a BR version.

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no I have a kit, it’s a Jidenco kit.

I’ve read the kit is a bit hit or miss by some, so I thought I’d kit bash as I run DCC this way I can get a DCC ready model. I have scratch built other locomotives. This way I get to Kit, RTR bash and scratch build all in one. The chassis has been a headache but i think I have the cure to all the problems now. I’ll post some pictures when there’s more to show


Fury I’m unsure about that Al, I have British Legion made from Hornby donor, but Fury spent most of its life either under construction repair or abandoned in a shed.



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Then put the most powerful motor, fastest gearing in it, and watch it explode on track!

I just found it fascinating when reading about her as a teenager - tragic events of course and apologies to any associated family members now-remotely involved.

Claughtons seemed semi-successful - an early 'larger locomotive' for the increasingly heavy trains being required to be hauled, before the Scots came out. Not sure how many are familiar with them - a little niche perhaps, but will definitely make a nice addition.

Al.

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Now it might not look like much but, the frame was chopped just past half way back of the rear most bogie arch. And a new front was built of a sandwich of plastic card using the frame of the kit as a template. The whole is then glued and pegged together.


forum_image_644d3db25c1e3.thumb.png.980e91eab14bf20e4846c225a3b54a6e.pngUp side is the rebuilt pat gets to live another day. And that spare chassis finally gets used. Downside I’ve now got to find some spares bits to get it working mainly the two bottom parts and the dcc board. The chassis now will hold the cylinders and should hold the main body.

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Has anyone any experience of Grafar OO models? I have had a few in the past but the only one I had ‘til this weeks was a Pannier which runs like new. I have had some prairie tanks in the past but they have been the plunger version and rubbish so were sold on. I recently got this one along with a King off eBay, both as non-runners,

The King was sorted in 5 mins, it was shorting on the body and some insulation tape sorted it. It is definitely a Grafar chassis but has been converted with an X04 and I think the body and tender are from a white metal kit. They weigh a ton. I wasn’t aware that they produced a King other than with the tender drive and all the ones I have seen have fallen to bits with Mazak rot. It was also in a Pannier box so my other loco has found a new home.

The Prairie however has what appears to be the original motor and a very good body. The chassis is also very free running. The whole thing was soaked in oil so I have cleaned it up but more still keeps appearing from somewhere. The motor works when power is applied but only for a few minutes, then starts and stops erratically. It is also extremely slow. It isn’t tripping the controller out. It looks as though the armature has been bent at some time, of the edges of the armature pieces one is completely smooth, another is partially worn and the third is as normal looking like they have been rubbing on something. I am not sure if the magnet is original, it looks like a Wrenn one and doesn’t have much power apart from a small area near the top. It is also slightly loose and there is a gap between the back of the motor and the magnet. Is this normal? Any help with this motor would be appreciated.

forum_image_644e44179682d.thumb.png.216208f6bca71434d9eb24d5874e8290.png

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Regarding the Grafar Prairie I posted about during the weekend, I dismantled the motor yesterday and found out someone has previously done the same. The gap in front of the magnet was due to the bearing piece being inserted back to front, the parts of this piece that locate in the top and bottom pole pieces had broken off and the whole part disintegrated in my hands, probably Mazak rot. On trying a Tri-ang and Wrenn equivalent the Tri-ang was closest so a couple of mins filing and it was a perfect fit. Trialled it all and everything seemed OK until the screw at the front of the top pole piece pinged out due to the threading in the chassis being stripped.

There is no way to test the motor out of the chassis as the bottom pole piece is riveted in place and the front bearing is in the chassis. I did get it running quite well but then it reverts to intermittent running and it’s not the controller. The armature is also getting very hot, usually a sign of low magnet strength, but I tried the magnet in an XO4 and it’s fine. A Wrenn R1 Armature looks like it should fit but when I tried one it didn’t quite. I would have to do quite a bit of modification to fit an X04 but that might be the route I need to go down.

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Minding the odd disaster ie I broke the chassis! Ok it broke itself the pin for the motor mount snapped so chassis Mk2. Quite a bit of work has been done. Hopefully it’ll get its first test run tomorrow minus its front bogies. The pat bogie sits to far back so will need to build a new bogie bracket may also need to use the kits truck unsure yet a job for another day.


the tender is a Bachmann one all ready made just needs paint. Very kind of them I thought. forum_image_64555cda66800.thumb.png.cc3214140a74105a14f70541f01a9c98.png

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I've had a Bachmann blue BR Tornado Peppercorn A1 awaiting 'a quiet moment' for me to replace some handrail knobs .... not an easy process.

I've actually had a packet of turned brass OO scale medium and short stand off knobs ... fitted the short and (eventually) managed to feed the rail through and superglue in position, then paint.

Amazingly, its a success!!

One less to work on!

Al.

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Al, It’s the little jobs that get put off like hand railknobs etc. for me it’s the accessory bags that never get opened. I must have 20 bachmann and Hornby locos running around with bits still in bags.

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Must admit, once there's 'a new arrival', I'm like a kid in a sweet shop with the accessory packs - and figuring out if front steps can be fitted, and how, or not ... such a big difference.

All part of the fun - apart from Bulleid brake rods and Black 5 sand pipes that is!!

Al.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a bit of a strange one lately - relating to a Dapol TPE Class 68 Splendid.

It seems to only go forwards - DC running. Reversing the current, there's no activity from the motor, but the lamps reverse strangely.

I removed the motor, and applying power directly it runs perfectly in both directions.

I'd waited a few days, until things were 'calmer' as work has been quite hectic!

I checked motor rotation prior to resoldering, then soldered up - and it went the wrong direction - great stuff!!

All corrected, it runs perfectly forwards. Lamps reverse as they should backwards, but still no movement - it's not jammed - there's no buzzing, humming or sparking / smoke anywhere.

It has several arrays of dip switches on the PCB. I'm fortunate to have another Dapol 68, so my next move is to compare dip switches. Job for tomorrow!

Al.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Looks like I'm up again!

That same, pretty amazing large logo Super Detail Class 56 I had on the long train video started functioning a little erratically.

I cleaned the track, cleaned the wheels of a few locomotives I'd had operating, including the 56, then found ... pickups were only on one bogie - pickup wires on both sides of the 'dead' bogie were detached.

I managed to solder both wires onto their contacts again, without any obvious collateral damage ...

She's working perfectly again.

Al.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Loco wheel cleaning time again.

My Hornby super detail blue Class 50 wasn't too hot, so easier access to the wheels, without removal, is to remove the bogie sides.

Pickups are the 'axle sockets'.

After a good clean of wheels and sockets, she's running very nicely again.

Another to clean was one of my 'Rats', a Bachmann Class 25.

Really not a big fan of the clip-on bogie surrounds!! Managed to get both off this time, without any damage. That's this evening's project - remove wheels (axles are in brass/bronze bushes or 'bearings') give a good clean, touch of oil, replace, then small dabs of light grease on the gears.

Al.

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