atom3624 Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 The light is battery powered. I've a Gaugemaster 'D' which I use. The 08 starts moving very slightly just on 20-21 indicated, or about as low as any other healthy locomotive. That new A/Scale 66 uses the same power when she starts 'whispering' on the tracks as well, but weighs perhaps 3x as much, or more! I've just got a digital meter hooked up, but it starts registering at ~ half power, so I need a lower-rated one. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 2 hours ago, ntpntpntp said: Have you run it on DC with a multimeter in series and checked the current draw? It's 81F that has that problem, not atom3624. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 13 hours ago, 81F said: I have a real problem with a Silver Fox Co-Bo. It seems to run perfectly on DC bit it struggleds to get going oDCC and frequently stops. I have serviced the motor which helps but it tended to overload. The chip also got vey hot to the extent I burned myself on it I was looking something else and came across this, I have saved this so as and when I set-up my layout, this will be a must so I can see the Load of the motor in DC/DCC mode. Just an thought. DCC Concepts DCC-AVA.1 Alpha Meter, image copied and pasted from DCConcept, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 (edited) Nice bit of kit but that's a helluva lot of money for a bit of metering, where all you really need is a test track / rollers and a £10 multimeter to check DC current draw, of course you can also test a DCC fitted loco assuming you've not disabled DC running in the decoder 🙂 I'd always advise railway modellers to have a multimeter in their toolkit, useful for so many jobs on the layout. I'll admit I have a DCC Specialities RRAmpMeter module I bought years ago which does a similar job to the DCC-AVA.1. The RRampMeter is also usable as a portable measurement tool and comes with test leads & crocodile clips etc. I was planning to use it with my garden railway (up to 10 amps DCC) but never got round to it. For loco testing I just use a bench power supply with built-in metering and a set of rollers for whichever gauge needed. Edited June 5 by ntpntpntp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 Ntpntpntp +1 for everyone should have a multimeter. I have two fancy ones but the one I use most cost £2.99 about ten years ago and is just left on the side ready for use. It might not be 100% accurate but for a quick check it’s perfect. It doesn’t have the continuity beep so I just use a low resistance setting and if there is continuity it drops to zero. It also doesn’t measure caps but if I ever need to do that I have one that does. Great for checking batteries, controller power or whatever. I don’t know how people manage without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 72000 Clan Buchanan has been worked on quite hard over the weekend! Target is to renumber and rename - 72000 Clan Buchanan to 72010 Hengist. Removing the '0' was quite difficult. Very small compacted pieces of Brasso held tightly in fine pliers were used to start it off, then I resorted to very focused, careful scratching - seems to have worked. The 'Clan Buchanan' nameplate is considerably longer than the Hengist, so had to be removed. I kept with the Brasso on this one, as scratching would be more obvious on the blinkers. Replacing the transfers means I need to seal in with lacquer, which would again make scratching obvious. Before 'sealing with lacquer' I took the opportunity to add a few high voltage electricity warning signs as well. All seems to be going well .... so far ! It won't be perfect, but looking quite good. Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 (edited) Clan name / number change is now complete - lacquered last night, renamed this morning. Photo indicated a small 'blob' of excess B7000 glue beneath the nameplate - now removed. Not perfect, but generally very pleased. Smokebox is 'natural / as received', as is the black on top of the cab and the running board, the rest has a light covering of gloss lacquer. Al. Edited June 9 by atom3624 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 54 minutes ago, atom3624 said: Clan name / number change is now complete - lacquered last night, renamed this morning. Photo indicated a small 'blob' of excess B7000 glue beneath the nameplate - now removed. Not perfect, but generally very pleased. Smokebox is 'natural / as received', as is the black on top of the cab and the running board, the rest has a light covering of gloss lacquer. Al. Excellent Job. Thanks for sharing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Yes it does look like a good job. I need to do something a little less ambitious with my two class 20s. They are both numbered D8000, so I'm intending to change one to D8001. Your procedure for getting rid of one of the zeros will therefore come in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Hi BM. I'm sure there are plenty of videos on YT, but this time Hornby had done a fantastic job, with everything, including the printing - very difficult to remove. State the obvious, but attach within a certain accepted 'collateral damage zone'. Some even mask off to try and limit this as well - worth a thought. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 'Attach' should read 'attack' - autocorrected for some reason. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 3D printed Kitson body being painted in Manchester Ship Canal livery. I need some white/black/white lining from somewhere. Maybe an order into Fox? This is designed to fit an old type Hornby Terrier chassis. The paint looks dreadful on the photo, it looks fine in real life! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Very nice RT. What's the chassis going to be? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 It’s designed to use the old style Dapol/Hornby terrier. It was originally a Hardy’s Hobbies kit but now available from Oak Hill Works. By chance I had the correct chassis in my spares box. I think Hardy’s included a driver but I have a few spare so not a problem there. I bought three kits at the same time from Oak Hill Works and was very happy with them. They’ll keep me busy for some time! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 A quick demo of Hengist and Pegasus .... Please ignore the 'Marvin the Paranoid Android' commentary - meant to be helpful really. The Clan does catch on the curves, noticeable when running slowly, which should improve a little in time, but once on the move, and HOW she moves!! All is good! Al. 72010 Hengist: 60700 Pegasus: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 Not so much on the workbench, but under the boards!! I am in the process of replacing seven Peco solenoid point motors with Cobalt Digital iP's - then programming them to my Elite. This is a temporary set-up, eventually all twenty eight Cobalts will be push-button operated via the Cobalt Alpha system. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Three fitted and working. These three are on my lift-up section across the door, so I can stand and work. Downside is that as the Cobalt is bigger than the solenoid motor, the droppers attached to the points are in the way, so have to un-solder(?) and reposition. Four to go, but not as accessible as the last three - so some removing of a kitchen wall unit (it's on the floor) and storage boxes etc., to be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Sorry but I had to giggle - Do not lift this (lifted) section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isabelliya Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 This is great idea. Sharing modeling projects, especially adaptations of Hornby products, It can be really inspiring for others in the community😀 Thank you @81f for starting this topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Well it's been going for nine years now, so welcome to the party 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 4 hours ago, 96RAF said: Sorry but I had to giggle - Do not lift this (lifted) section. It's usually locked in place Rob - but there is always the risk "someone" will just walk up to it and lift.😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 (edited) Just recently left the work bench is a Bachman GWR 56xx DCC ready, I thought his was going to be a fight for the relatively large 7K decoder, and AE stay-alive, but in the end just the removal of the weight above the pinion was required ! With the wonders of Kapton tape and Black-Tack it all just about fits, speaker and enclosure black tacked in smokebox: The next 3 (non DCC ready) I want to fit the same decoder, speaker and stay alive have been assessed today. 1. Bachman GWR 5700 pannier - Ordered an 8 pin board to (hopefully) make life simple ! 2.Bachman GWR 4575 Small Prairie, possibly be hardwired, will require some dremel action to fit decoder and stay alive. 3.Bachmann LMS Jinty 3F has had some newer chassis parts ordered to make life easier, but I need to get the diecast running plate separated from the body, despite finding all the screws it is not yet co-operating, I must be missing something ... Edited June 18 by Too Tall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 That blue Hornby 08 shunter had it's motor replaced a week ago. It's still faster than the EWS 08 shunter - but can be controlled down to smooth crawling speeds - having a speed very equivalent to the 2x Bachmann 08's I have. Here's a 'bit of fun' I had this morning (apologies for the unsteady camera and the early 'heavy breathing' - just got off the exercise bike and was crouched down in a not-very-comfortable position!!) Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 Hopefully these 2 videos will be 'easier on the eye' .... right way up Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 (edited) Bachmann 4575 Prairie, DCC-7k fitted with stay alive. Speaker on smallest enclosure in smokebox, chimney drilled out. Hardwired because the room is minimal ! With a bit of dremel type tool action on the bunker interior panel the stay alive will just protude on the cab floor base where you would have to look hard to see it especially as there is a driver and coalman aboard! Another attack of the dremel on the inside of the boiler to just give me room to fit the decoder between the weight and the body after insulating the weight. There was no room for plugs, hence the hardwire, even then I had to make a cover for the worm gear as packed in wires will find a way to find it with my luck. it wasnt easy, to get it all to fit without something going where it shouldn't, but its all in place now. Not a very neat job, but it works ! Edited June 19 by Too Tall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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