Fazy

Al, It’s the little jobs that get put off like hand railknobs etc. for me it’s the accessory bags that never get opened. I must have 20 bachmann and Hornby locos running around with bits still in bags.

It’s simple you have a larger range, small, medium, large strength and curved points, crossings, single and double slips. Small, large Y points, catch points. 3 way points Not to mention sleeper choices wood concrete steel. And a choice of rail options too. some will say one manufacturer is better then the other but really both work very well. But Hornby can’t compete with the choice

Minding the odd disaster ie I broke the chassis! Ok it broke itself the pin for the motor mount snapped so chassis Mk2. Quite a bit of work has been done. Hopefully it’ll get its first test run tomorrow minus its front bogies. The pat bogie sits to far back so will need to build a new bogie bracket may also need to use the kits truck unsure yet a job for another day. the tender is a Bachmann one all ready made just needs paint. Very kind of them I thought.

A new post is waiting for approval, one image shows the tender. With the new loco body fitted the tender peg won’t fit behind the drag beam. Cut the peg off, just the peg not the bracket. You can then screw a small screw into the bracket and attach the tender this way. The image will help.

The front of the body has a small layer of plastic card to help keep the body level the big pile is the fitting part. A self tapping screw will make its own hole when you screw it in. The back pile of plastic card dose both jobs in one. Self tapping screw again. To get it level use the tender as a guide to get the cab and front level. You can just add a few layers of plastic card at a time until you are happy the body is sitting level and the card is in contact with the chassis. glue I use plastic weld as it melts the plastics into one piece. I used some spares self tapping screws from Bachmann. You can order the fixings for any loco from them. The self tapping screws look like a screw but have a pointy end. any questions please feel free to ask.

made some progress on the Hornby rebuilt pat/ Claughton bash

well th split chassis is a Mainline model or a early Bachmann so that should work. You will need to make new fixtures but I’ll show my model withe the body of so you can see how to do it. im guessing your not done much modelling so we will skip the worry about re-wheeling them for another time. the Hornby patriots I don’t know if it will fit. But if you start with the split chassis one first you’ll have a body to check for yourself.

It’s the new Jubilee from bachmann. the Jubilee and Patriot use the same chassis just with different wheels and are interchangeable. The same chassis (Bachmann dcc ready jubilee or Patriot) will fit into the older mainline Scot/Pat/Jubilee. Though you will need to make new fixtures for the body to screw onto the new chassis. You can get the chassis of eBay £60~ or give Bachmann a call. However the wheels though the right size will have the wrong wheel weights on them if this bothers you you will need to get new wheels, ether wheels from the old model ( i don’t know it that would work. Not tried it, so no guarantee) or Markits these are 1/8 axles and the axle holes will need opening on the new chassis. Not hard but if you’ve never done this before a concern. That’s what I did with the Scot above.

Now it might not look like much but, the frame was chopped just past half way back of the rear most bogie arch. And a new front was built of a sandwich of plastic card using the frame of the kit as a template. The whole is then glued and pegged together. Up side is the rebuilt pat gets to live another day. And that spare chassis finally gets used. Downside I’ve now got to find some spares bits to get it working mainly the two bottom parts and the dcc board. The chassis now will hold the cylinders and should hold the main body.

no I have a kit, it’s a Jidenco kit. I’ve read the kit is a bit hit or miss by some, so I thought I’d kit bash as I run DCC this way I can get a DCC ready model. I have scratch built other locomotives. This way I get to Kit, RTR bash and scratch build all in one. The chassis has been a headache but i think I have the cure to all the problems now. I’ll post some pictures when there’s more to show Fury I’m unsure about that Al, I have British Legion made from Hornby donor, but Fury spent most of its life either under construction repair or abandoned in a shed.

well I taken a Hornby patriot to bits and we’ll be slowly putting it back together has something new. Should be ready In time for one of the RTR producers to announce a new model.

Going spare, I think you’re worrying over nothing, look at the GWR 101, thousands off them and no problems with the cab roof. And what’s up with teaching kids to respect their toys anyway.

There is no automated process for model trains. To make some automated would require large costs for high volume production. 500-5000 units is peanuts. Model production is very labour intensive. The painting and decoration can involve many operations, each involving a setup, test, and run with time for paints to dry. Some models have had up to 70 separate decorations operations alone. That’s 70 set ups. 70 tests with inspection and the 70 runs and 70 time slots for paint drying. That is time consuming. Models are not expensive considering time needed to produce the items.

Peco code 75 small rad point? Never going to happen. The code 75 is designed to be more realistic, but even the mid and large points are some what small compared to the real thing. flanged rear Bissel wheel on a princess Coronation or princess Royal on set track is just not happening. I have code 75 large rad points and min rad 5 curves on the main lines, it’s just not happening. The best way forward is the flangeless wheels once on a layout you can’t really tell.

You’ll have to do a little diy work but the fit is relatively straightforward a piece of packing to bring the cub a touch and you’ll have to move the front fixture screw. Apart from that should be an easy job. I did the same a couple of years ago. Though I changed the wheels for the correct one for a Royal Scot. And valve gear. In fact the Scot body is still a very good model

I’ve done unassign & delete, I’ve got the code incase but it doesn’t show up when I scan, I’ve taken them out, I did try the Cv8 but that didn’t do anything. I’ve ordered 2 Zen decoders, think I’ll skip sound decoders, much happier building stuff anyway. Thanks for all the help.

I just fitted a Hm 7000 to black five sound. Came on all good. Set to move moved about 3 mm and that was it. no metal touching, speaker back next to the decoder but that’s plastic. So should be fine. Wiped it out put in another black5 body off this time But no sound no movement it was Bluetooth connected but wasn’t responsive. so I thought I’d reset it, I had copied the new password before hand. Now it won’t show up on Bluetooth at all. There’s is power because you can here a slight hum No smoke at any time and no visible damage/burn marks. it’s now sitting on the layout bench!!

Oh I see so if I turn the HM7000 to dcc control the CVs will then be able to be changed. I’ll have a go either later or tomorrow. Thank you.

So with the greatest respect 96RAF, what your saying is what I have been told was the 7000 sound file is new and is not based on what tts or to put it another way plane wrong, That’s fine mix ups happen. But the only way round to get a 4 cylinder Princess sound from a downloaded ‘Princess’ sound file too, is to fudge it some what to make it sound like what it is reported to be. what springs to mind is why? I mean can the decoder hold a full sound file? If so why not just hold back on the release until the file is ready. i don’t mean to rubbish the HM7000 system, I have ordered a second one for a 4f, and I think I’ll take the Princess Royal one out and pop it in a black 5 the sound quality is fine and the app is good too. It’s just lacking 2chuffs on the Princess’s on the Princess files..

I am try to get my HM7000 sound decoder to sound more like a 4cyclinder for the princess. I have emailed a chap at Hornby, let’s call him Simon for arrangements sake, Now he’s given me some CV changes to help that some one did on a TTS decoder which the HM7000 sound file is based on apparently. Part of this was to add 16 to CV 29 duly don and a list of other changes. But the list of CVs numbers of TTS don’t match the HM7000 CVs showing image of the list below. Any help would be welcome. Even If it’s just a case of adding a number to the numbers.

Princess Royal using Coronation sound file, though theirs is a problem. Some where in the mixing of the sound file It’s lost half of its chuffs. It’s only got two chuffs to one wheel rotation.

Thank 96RAF, I’ll go and have a read, I was wondering if I played with the speed sittings if it could be disguised somewhat.

A few days playing, sorry testing all seems well nothing has gone puff. I will get a few more for some of my locos, however I have looked though the manual can’t find it (might be looking for the wrong term) is synchronised chuffing to cylinders possibly on this chip? If not is it a downloadable possibility for the future?

It’s simple really are you a modeller or a collector? Not has if a Lima model is ever going to be expensive model anyway. dose Lima have a following like Wrenn once had. Even Wrenn doesn’t hold its value anymore apart from the very rare models and even then. Lima just doesn’t conjure up the image of ‘One Day I’ll have one’ they were just never top shelf models.