Buz

Hi Mike Jessop Have you got any old proper Mechanno bolts you can try (Not the new French stuff), but don't force them if they don't fit properly. They could well be the same size and thread as a Mechanno bolt if they are Binns Rd products. Mechanno bolts came in one size but more than one length I think they had BA threads. Given both where made by the same manufacturer the bolts may have been used in both products Mechanno and Dublo Trains. Let us know how you get on I am sure others have missing Dublo building screws that need replacing as well. They may be train set buildings but in many ways they are better than the modern train set buildings. regards John

Hi country boy Point motor recommendation is easy as model points throw varies slightly between brands. For Hornby points Hornby point motor for Peco points Peco point motor. Other brands of point motor no idea. Be aware that Peco and Hornby use the color of wire differently so follow the appropriate manufacturers wiring diagram or your going to smell that terminal electrical burning smell 😢. The key thing with switches is they need to be either momentary contact or passing contact type there are that many made its difficult to make a solid recommendation The DCC concepts ones look like they are worth investigating just on there appearance of being signal box levers and solid looking brass handle with lever catch, regards John

Hi yelrow I scrounged mine from my dentist another useful one is a mosquito clamp I got from a surgical supplier regards John

Hi Lickey incline No you won't fit a medium sized layout on a 6 X 4 or even 8 x 4 because they are small layouts. If the question is changed to "Can I build a worthwhile layout on 6 X4" the answer is a resounding "YES" Trains will be short in length pretty much train set length personal opinion forget the track mat and design something to fit the space. You can fit a station, small loco depot and goods yard in that space with a couple of tracks at the back for a hidden storage yard. I fitted that much on 4'6" X 4'6" starting with one of Peco's plans for small layouts and modifying it to suit Avoid R1 curves many modern locomotives cannot get round them and you need to maximize your options as to what will run on the layout particularly if you like steam or larger diesel locomotives. If you can increase the depth to 4'6" so you can use R4 curves on parts the main line. The extra depth is also good for scenery remember less will be more for track. regards John

Hi Brew Man While it is planned as a permanent layout and not intended to go to shows. If the layout has been planned and built properly it will last and give many many years of pleasure. My thought is make sure you can take it apart without too much damage and put it back together in a new location and get it up and running again reasonably quickly. Also these things have a life all there own and expand to fill all available space which it sounds like your design will allow "don't feed it after midnight" 😆. So again a good idea if it can still come apart relatively easy and with minimal damage to maximize expansion options. Peco expansion joints and jumper wires could be an option to facilitate the ease of getting it apart for expansion. Something to think about as I am not sure why you are doing a 6' X 4' in more than one piece if its a permanent layout regards John

Hi bulleidboy It works and is easily followed that's what matters. My only criticism is it appears to have more than one control zone and yet the track plan is mono tone. My personal opinion which is not that important, is that it should perhaps be a little bigger to space and more clearly define the individual switches. But at the same time I know pictures can at times be deceptive on space and size regards John

Hi Gundog53 There is no standard size for a control panel and that is also true on the real railways even though there is standardization of components. A control panel is as big or as small as it needs to be to control the area it controls. In model terms it can be as small as 75mm square and only control one set of points or a monster panel controlling a major terminus and carriage sheds. Also it depends on how you want to control the layout do you want just one panel or more than one panel. Many people mark out the panel with auto pin stripe for the track others do a paper print out and put perspex or other clear cover on it some just draw one. Some use an aluminum plate with pinstripe (me) not done one for my current layout it just a bit of aluminum angle with switches and levers on it. It was only supposed to be a temporary prevent insanity layout but has lasted longer than expected so it may yet get a proper aluminum panel. The best way to work out how big you need it to be is to draw it. It doesn't have to be anything special for this sketch but you can then lay out the switches showing how big the base is and is there enough room if not time for a bigger sketch until you hit a size that works for you. Don't forget the extra bit around the edges for mounting the panel that can't be intruded on with switches or wiring. regards John

Hi potbus2378 I would sugest they are BR crimson you need to look for that I would sugest it is easier to buy Hogwarts coaches new or second hand. The locomotive is I believe Alton Hall so you want a hall class locomotive and try and match the colour to Hogwarts castle the head board shows up ocasionaly on evil bay. I would sugest the crew be painted in purple like the Knight bus conductor some one did that for me. I still need to get Alton Hall to replace Hogwarts Castle regards John

Hi moriaramike Just needs the armed guards and a defense department sign saying trespassers will be shot A hint of something down the tunnel might be good to. regards John

Hi Margate Richmond Grey SR wagon never seen one of those mine are all red, only got one 16 ton open have two I think of the NE coke a couple A.W.Day opens a train load of general refactories and Wm Cory, NE brake I think? have a few of the insulfish ones both light blue and white versions. All have metal wheels now which they did not as manufactured unless sold under the silver seal branding None of the locomotives at least not the current for that time Hornby ones. If you make one I take it you will paint the table frames etc Triang red I am pretty sure thats what colour they where or was that specific only to the shop display layouts? regards John

Hi Anglia998 And they where made of rubber back then not many of them around now they distorted dried up and cracked. When new they where not too bad looking and had they been made of a much better quality rubber matierial, they could have passed with only a small push as background buildings today. I think I still have one of the rubber buildings somewhere It won't be in a usable condition so I don't know why I keep it. They where also made in UK O scale as well regards John

Hi Margate Richmond Don't be silly your asking a company to give proper service they don't do that today. 😆 My child hood layout was a double track and sidings track pack with a couple of extra points to give more sidings. That was on the hinged panel that closed the top of the toy cupboard that Dad built and a typical green and grey paint job for ground ballast and road At that time my first ever scenic piece was made a removable mountain with a big biscuit tin lid for the base. The rest was very messy paper and wallpaper glue and green primary school paint probably looked rubbish but I thought it looked good at the time. regards John

Hi all Johns std gripe where is the brake van it should have one. Right now that's out of the way, they look to represent very good value for money. The packs do more or less have two trains worth of rolling-stock note my std gripe, so do form a good start or a good add on If I did not have as much as I do, either one of those would be a possibility. I cannot see the issue with both loco's being the same class the liveries are different and it is a common type, that would have gone all over the LNER or the Eastern region. And may be snuck outside those areas particularly in BR days. regards John

Hi morairamike Oh!! dear somebody blocked the door 😆 That is very neatly done it doesn't look like a flap when down and in place. all you need now is a red warning light outside when the flap is down. regards John

Hi Chalford Did you give the track a good clean and go round and remove any errant ballast from where it is not wanted after ballasting?? Are the locomotive wheels and pick ups clean are the pick ups where they should be?? regards John

Hi Johnny Wizz You need about 4'6" wide for R4 curves this gives a bit of a margin for OOPS! OH NO!! moments. It will also allow some scenery out side the track. Make sure you have a good solid construction on the base board and frame this must be done properly with no short cuts. Generally speaking it is recommended that the board is not wider than 3" which of course doesn't work for a traditional 8' X 4' board nothing states it has to be a rectangular layout. But consider a slightly larger doughnut layout where there is an operating well in the middle or perhaps a lift out scenic section for better access good quality casters to make it movable are another option. I am in the 12mm good quality ply top, and 20 mm thick support timbers if you can get them also make sure the wood is as knot free as possible you must use good quality timber. Also avoid filling the board with every mm of track you can possibly fit on or it will look over crowded and scenicing whats left will be very challenging to say the least. regards John

Hi all Given my latest troubles at finding information after loosing years of personal hobby notes I think its a great idea. Picking up on LC&DR's comment can I pre order chocolate waffles with lashings of cream and a flat white please. 😆 I concur that it would need to be indexed, searchable and there is a large risk of it becoming a waffle shop, so much moderation and fact checking would be essential. Also that both DCC Witch craft and DC Electrical systems must be covered in the electrical section with none of the back biting that can present it's self in those discussions. Electrical scares a lot of people, so it would have to work on the KISS principle as far as is practical regards John

Hi all Thanks to a member on another forum got it. The Cct is for a twin coil solenoid signal for a bi-directional main line so the facility for the train to run through the front (correct railway term) unimpeded is built in with the diode. If it doesn't work the diode is wired the wrong way round and the wire needs swapping around. Trains stop at the back (correct railway term) of the signal when it is set to stop and proceed will allow the train go on its way. /media/tinymce_upload/083880e7cce5ac91f3de381b5dd33d3e.jpg This Cct applies only to twin coil solenoid signals in this instance it is a Hornby Dublo signal. If there is a CDU in the Cct I am advised that a 24V latching relay is required. If using other brands make sure the solenoid can handle 24V before having a CDU in Cct regards John

Hi all Have managed to get a little further with the diagram /media/tinymce_upload/253cb00735794e71e84cdf3730c5b871.jpg but Drawing in the latching relay properly is still a how do I. I assume there would be a common Negative ?? Neutral?? for both the signal and relay I know what I need its just putting it together from memory without a diagram to show how it all goes together. regards John

Hi WTD Wot no tube tunnel?? 😆 Looks impresive any chance of a full run video?? regards John

Hi Gridiron1717 Your going mad 😆 and that's just for using that disgusting station building. This discussion has come up before with several buildings that seem out of proportion with others and are in fact not. So first up it is a very small village pub that's the first thing that I notice, the second is that the station building is on a platform which will skew the viewer perception of size. Building standards and standardized sizes are a relatively modern thing and they have changed over time. My building that seems too small is Busby's hair salon but it isn't. A good indicator for size is Door heights and Window Sill heights but these can vary a bit as well as things like station doors are bigger than other doors. If you have real concerns, just move them further apart so the difference is not so obvious. Some messing about with sizes does take place so that things can be used it is the over all effect of the scene that is key Lets put it this way you would not be able to model Liverpool St Station in most situations without selective compression a technique that needs to be used a lot, I use two houses a shop, above mentioned hair salon and a pub for a small town / large village yet to work out what to do for a church which is what makes it a town or village. regards John

Hi Blue Moos The base circuit is here https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/lost-signal-diagram-help-diagram-help-please/?p=1 I am trying to find out more as I want to isolate the track as well and cannot remember what was in the middle. If not isolating remember to leave out the isolation's and diode. regards John

Hi Dairycoates48 Take the bridge apart wash in warm soapy water to remove any molding residue rinse leave to dry Check for and remove any flash there should not be any but check anyway. paint, I would suggest citadel Usbarty Bone (spelling) to start thin some down with 50/50 water coat the whole bridge with it let dry give it another coat of thinned down bone leave 24 hours to dry Now the painful bit get a suitable acrylic brick color being mindful of the the modeled local brick color also get a large citadel (games workshop) dry brush it will be pricey but worth it dry brushing is a brush destroyer and buying dry brushes that are designed for it means they last longer. Now dry brush the individual sections in the chosen brick color building up the color slowly when satisfied with each section set aside to thoroughly dry it should look something like cemented bricks when finished. Once all sections are done and dry reassemble the bridge now lightly dry brush across the joins just to tidy things up and make it look consistent. once paint is dry I recommend a LIGHT coat of spray flat finish. Its a bit of fafing about but done properly well worth the effort as the bridge will look very good. The down side it takes time and all other structures will have to have a carefully thought out and executed paint job so the bridge blends in rather than stands out because of its paint job. If the bridges have a date stone on them make sure all the date stones have the same date and any other details are the same or it will look odd. Some Hornby Bridges where manufactured with a molded on date stone and it is a nice little touch worth highlighting if they all match. regards John

Hi all Someone mentioned super glue issuies there is a product called super glue remover which works.. However a cheap option is nail polish remover Make Sure It HAS ACETONE IN IT this is the ingrediant that cleans up the super glue. If not stuck yet and no glue solvent is avalable to get it off the fingers, rub the fingers with wet soap this will set up the glue so your fingers don't stick together. Not ideal but better than fingers stuck rogether. regards John

Hi Rog (RJ) Thanks that confirms the diode will work. Now I just need the middle part of the Cct so I can make it all work the way I want it all to work. Its a pain trying to put a Cct together from memory, when that's what the note book was supposed to do paper memory. At least the distant signal is a straight parallel wire to the home signal no extra switch or fancy Cct's if there is enough track length to put the distant signal in and have it look right, some how I doubt it. But then the distant signal is only a mimic and bit of a gimmick in this instance it has no real function other than to look good and clever-clog's. The real functionality needs to be the Home signals coupled with the track isolation. regards John