Kenneth ONeill

And it's not just a nice build, but a good idea too, a Luftwaffe Tiger Meet scheme.

Milliput? If so, then it does "go off" eventually, like after a few years with the 2 component putties stored stored in the box together, usually only the first half inch or so.

Likewise. So 3 down, 9_997 to go...

The Hawker/BAe Harrier GR1/3/AV-8A/FRS1 (best I can do to cover variants) contains a basic Pegasus engine, and engine top access hatch. I hope this helps you with planning a build.

Well, there are/were various licenced kits based on Aardman Animation shows (and films).

Prototyping - Making a prototype, and initially concerning yourself with points that do matter, like how long and how far apart the finished beams should be. Separation - The distance(s) between the beams.

If we are going to use UK submarine classes, can we please use class names/pennant numbers and not just short codes like S or T? There have been 2 or 3 different UK sub classes using those short codes.

If you're going for blocks, that's prototyping, and you can work out the length for them once you have a separation.

In other posts I've seen it claimed that you no longer need the "membership number" and one is no longer supplied.

A new scheme to me too, and one that makes some sort of sense for Persian Gulf theatres. Having said which, wouldn't you rather see an accurate Centurian rather than a "looks vaguely like a Centurian VIII" toy?

Quick note - The diesel-dye pod for the Red Arrows scheme is a modified ADEN gun pod, which is potentially (check references) valid for more or or less any aircraft used as an advanced trainer or ground attack (trainer or COIN).

OTOH I bought a "Quickbuild" Bugatti Veyron because it was about the only 1/~24 scale Veyron I could get from any maker, at any price.

Er, injection moulding is way the cheapest way of producing an entire airframe. No-one seems to make vacuum forms any more disappointed_relieved and casting (resin or white metal) and 3D printing techniques are very labour intensive.

Nice Ratch; that's a finish I've long argued for for period invasion stripes. "Perfect "restored warbird" stripes are another matter.

Regarding "silvery", are we talking actual bare metal (eg P-51 Mustang) or silver paint (eg RAF high speed silver as on some RAAF Mosquitos, DH Vampires...)? And for camouflage, please do some research: it's well documented that some Luftwaffe experten received aircraft that were delivered matt and polished by the ground crew prior to the first mission.

You need to re-roll paint schemes from those shown in the kits (particularly the blue grey and blue grey and yellow in the recovery and refuelling sets are post-WW2) but the vehicles in the recovery, refuelling and emergency sets are all plausible.

Nice Ratch, particularly the S-boot just arriving quay-side.

Model railway shops can supply 1/76 scale background rolls of "English countryside", and base mats or rolls of grass and of tarmac.

Or perform a fairly mild conversion to a Grand Slam carrier (fairings in place of nose and mid-upper gun turrets, leave off bomb doors that wouldn't close over 10 tons of bomb anyway), leave off flame dampers so you need the exhaust stubs.

Hi Andrew, you should have the kit stock number on the box ends and instruction book, and a small white sticker with a batch number on the box underside. Send those details and the missing part number to Airfix Customer Services e-mail, not to the internet fora.

Well, I'd say it's more "previous sub-assemblies may be shown in red." Either way, red applies to assemblies, not to painting.

Water is ideal for use with Humbrol acrylics. Add it drop by drop rather than trying to add so much in one slug though.

Not a problem Peter. It's a complex subject, made worse by brush or spray and by modelling lacquers (which are more or less spray only).

"Is the Club worth the price?" I am not a moderator, and would say "maybe, year to year, depending on the kit(s)". Never mind how much they cost Airfix to produce, the LMS sticker price of a Hawk is ~£10, and you get two with custom decals (Maybe £6 if you bought them from Hannants?), so I come up with the extra expenditure for the club as ~£4 this year, if you want the kits.

Well, Gordon quoted Airfix and Humbrol reference numbers as being in the kit. That told me that it must be a 1970s or 80s boxing from the period after Humbrol bought Airfix, but before they discontinued the Airfix paint range.