Kenneth ONeill

Rod, it's cool. I personally don't know much about actual WW1 colours, but do know a bit more about modelling paint codes. Hence I was confining my comment to what the information in the kit destructions actually meant, and not what shades were used on the original airframe.

Thanks Stuart; I don't have a full loadout reference for all the Black Bucks to hand, but my understanding was that the Shrikes were carried because no-one was certain whether or not the Argentinians had SAMs in the Falklands capable of intercepting a Vulcan at cruising height.

It depends. I mean I only use enamels or spirit acrylics for gloss and metallic finishes, but prefer water acrylics for silk and matt. To expand : Gloss enamel I find dries harder and glossier than water based acrylic. Enamel and spirit acrylic offer a much larger range of better looking metallics than water acrylics. Water acrylic matts are faster drying and more reliably matt than enamel matt, and don't tend to lift the way spirit enamels sometimes do when you try to recoat. Speaking of, I still use hairy sticks rather than miniature sprayguns, which may account for some of why odour is a non-issue for me.

I'm guessing that Rod doesn't think that you and I gave very good advice. I mean, even though everything we said was accurate, since we didn't say "mix 4 Humbrol shades in these proportions"...

Making them "consistent" suggests all 3 in anti-flash white to me. Your choice, but I see the Vulcan and Victor bombers more in low level tactical grey/green. Speaking of the Black Bucks, have Airfix included the "sidewinders" (actually AGM-45 Shrikes) that the Vulcans carried and were politically misidentified when one landed in Brazil due to lack of fuel!?

As Ratch says, with the note that Airfix branded paints were discontinued maybe 40 years ago.

I still have an affinity for the Grumman Wildcat. . . . . and freshly cooked sea prawns heart_eyes Good taste sir, although I prefer freshly dived king scallops (by freshly I mean under 6 hours from sea to plates).

That is pure dead brilliant by the way.

On the Roland C11, I'm not clear on its copyright, but I do have a photo (monochrome) of one with net curtains and window boxes on the fuselage windows, and a bird cage hanging from the muzzle of the observer's gun.

Well, there are lots of pictures (mostly of restored cars) on Wikipedia, and external links to Model T clubs.

1a) Saracen, and Saladin. Given different top plates they could both use most of the same hull, and all the same running gear. 3a) SWB Land-Rover air portable.

There were 2 personal aircraft assigned to Wing Commander Johnny Johnson; the well known JE-J, and the slightly less well known JE-J jr. Both of them carried full "invasion stripes" in June and July 1944. "jr" was also one of the famous "beer runners" in July.

Yes. Most of the period charabancs I've seen IRL had slatted wooden benches, not deep buttoned diamond leather upholstery.

Usual notes that one, repeat one, of the main rotor blades is yellow overall rather than grey. Oh and the dinghy pack (box in cabin just aft of winch door on starboard side) is yellow, regardless of what the destructions say.

I'd agree with Frederick, with the note that I suspect the seats came from 1 or 2 Airfix Rolls Royce town cars.

Similarly Dominic, I was supporting you with a worked example of how careful tool design can maximise subjects from a relatively small number of main sprues.

I've been suggesting this sort of thing for years now, including things like if all the wing parts for a Spitfire I or II are on one sprue, then you only need a new wing sprue to make a mk V b/c, and then a new fuselage with the B wing to make a VIII or IX.

Go to your local model shop, and ask for a bottle of thin superglue. This will give you something like a full ounce for the price of 2 1 g tubes of something like Loctite. Don't even think about using is straight from the bottle; decant onto an old ceramic tile or saucer, or a giveway CD, or a piece of plastic sheet, and transfer from there to your part using a cocktail stick. You may also wish to use a white PVA and/or Humbrol Clearfix depending on the parts involved.

As Ratch says above. I tend to do partial assembly, then paint, then assemble some more... based on accessibility. For example, I will fit the interior bulkheads and centre console to the Sea King before painting the light grey. Speaking of, you might like to know that there are some errors in the Sea King painting instructions. The most glaring ones are that one (and only one) of the main rotor blades should be yellow, as should the dinghy pack (box just aft of the big door on the starboard side).

In the first place Humbrol 22 is gloss white in both the acrylic and enamel ranges. I have no idea who might make a bronze as "22". I, too, thin Humbrol acrylics to a milky consistency (using tap water, but note that I live in a soft water area).

That the web development team find a way to "lock" threads, and then use it on "old" wishlist threads, like this one.

Not on this forum, but if you join the Airfix Tribute Forum (free to join, link above), post a "hello" thread there, and then post a "wanted advert", someone can supply/advise, including swapping contact details by private message if required.

Not quite what I expected; I was thinking of stuff like all the "girder bridge" and "Scammell tank transporter" parts used to widget the Nostromo and refinery in Alien, and various craft in "Star Wars" (A new Hope).

grinning, OK I LOLed.

Er, it's Carley Float; Carley float - Wikipedia refers.