Peachy

Just seen the nice comments from you guys, thank you. Yes, I had to keep quiet about it obviously. 🙄😝🤣 As for the rest of the mag I think Paul & his team have done a cracking job, and I completely understand the idea of re-setting the clock so to speak with calling this volume the Autumn/Winter. As for waiting till April for the spring I’ve got no problem (just as long as Hornby deliver some crumb of info about that promised tank engine) Now let me wish you all a Messy Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Hi, they’re pretty easy, I show how & where to fit them in this video at approximately 9:06 Hope it helps. NB as per most of my videos I talk way too much & don’t actually start showing how to install them until 11:07 🤣

Hurrah! It’s out (and I’m in it!😎🤭)

Fox transfers do these in N gauge and look pretty good, I used them on my Sir Nigel Gresley A4. Unfortunately they have no plans on producing anything for TT120 at the moment. King’s Cross plates do brass name plates but in old TT 1:100 or N )1:148 ?) I used the N. Railtech on the other hand have reproduced I think their entire range in 1:120 but I’m pretty sure it’s only non steam stuff?

Hi BritlnVanCA hope you’ve got it sorted? I’m sorry that I didn’t make any reference to the above issue powering these units with DCC track power. Unfortunately it just wasn’t on my radar as I’m only using the HM7000 via Bluetooth so of course my track power is as described in the video purely DC.

Cheers PB 😊

Bit of chat about card kits in general, then a few hints and tips and a step by step build up of the TT120 club magazine freebie Scalescenes Warehouse kit.

Garry is, of course technically correct, in as much as the astronomical dates do have winter starting around the 20th-22nd of December, but to suggest “people” are in some way deficient if they are used to referring to the Meteorological calendar which has winter starting on the 1st of December is possibly a little disingenuous, especially as Hornby use it! But fear not, I’m sure it will turn up eventually.

Top job…

Did anyone see the TT120 class 40 scratchbuild by Richard from This Way Works running on the Hornby magazine layout? HM7000, sound, lights, power bank and…… smoke in tune with the sound!!!!!!!!!

I don’t blame anyone for being hopeful🤷🏻‍♂️ Shame Hornby’s marketing team can’t scrape something together, (although obviously not a Coca Cola/steam punk/santa’s special 😬)

Rallymatt. I’m alright…promise 😭🤣 Didn’t know that about BT, which as it happens is my provider. As for my SNG funnily enough it’s been one of the better runners! Oh and yes, re-spacing the axles, especially for running on Peco Streamline, has had superb results

I think you might have something there…

Just a note in reference to the argument that PB's really shouldn't be needed if you have laid your track correctly and keep everything spotlessly clean. That's all very well if one is using "normal" DCC with a HM7000 decoder via a dongle. But if you are reliant on Bluetooth control only for HM7000 DCC then currently the decoders have proven too sensitive and therefore are prone to disconnect with the slightest variation in current. This is an issue that has proven to be eliminated by the inclusion of power banks. It was quite telling that the TT120 layout at GETs wasn't Bluetooth controlled for that very reason. NB, I assume that no inference of dumbness or patronization is meant when forum contributors continually repeat the assertion that a Power Bank or Stay Alive is not required, but that is how it can be perceived.

Sounds like a good plan. Although one would hope that Hornby are paying some attention to this issue?

The last A4 that I bought was a digital fitted Falcon and that had the correct whistle and the cab was clicked properly in place, but I think there’s still a few of the original upside down/incorrect (whichever’s your preferred description) about if you want to grab a future “collectors item” 😬🤔🤣 As for the cab removal and replacement, I’ve done it a few times & it’s not for the faint hearted as it’s quite invasive & not something I would ever do if wasn’t planning on re-finishing the locos livery. Much better to have a go at pushing it down firmly although you have to be very careful where you put pressure, you certainly don’t want to have the loco on its wheels. I placed mine on a 10mm wide strip of softwood between the wheels, after removing the plastic brake frame detail from the underside first, then carefully supported the loco with one hand and pushing down hard with the thumb of my other. I got it almost completely down. *edit* Or of course as per Ntpntpntp’s method above if you’re happy taking the body off. As he says you don’t need to take the cab off

Good round up GHU. Its been months since I’ve bothered with RMWeb

Ah.. I hadn’t realised that. I’d just assumed they’d always been there

Has anyone else noticed the 7 plank wagons have disappeared from Peco’s own website? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Well then Garry, I don’t think you should listen to this ‘Nobody’ chap, he sounds just like the sort of person we really don’t need around here! 🤔🤣

Chapeau to you Mac, you did a good job showing the rolling capabilities of the Peco wagons.

Well I like them…😉

As far as I’m concerned, this was the the real star at GETs

Just got an email from Rails of Sheffield saying they’re arriving very soon.

Did anyone notice the Hunt style magnet coupling on the 50?