Kevin Hodges

A quirky little feature I'm sure will be a bit of fun. If it actually works. Some of these Hornby 'train sets' seem to be pretty good value for what you get.

I just spotted this set and at a good price so I grabbed it. Never seen this 'mail bag' feature before. Looks like Hornby have had this around for years in many different sets. ? An excuse to try the new analogue controller too grinning

The back scenes I bought are peel back, self adhesive. https://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/backscenes.htm Although I bought them some time ago, I haven't got round to adding them yet. My layout is setup in a plywood lined shed so they will be affixed directly to the walls at the desired height. I have just enough length to allow for a gentle transition curve in the corner rather than a hard 90 degree wall to wall. Kev.

Hi Rob & Brew Man, I have been scratching my head for a week trying to get this point motor to work reliably. I only have the need for one. If I had a layout that required more than one, I probably would need medication and relaxation therapy.

Hornby should manufacture and provide these 'shims' with every surface mount motor.

After a lot of stuffing around, the best way I've found to get a Hornby Surface Mount point motor to work reliably, perfectly (and be properly screwed down), is to cut and glue/affix a piece of 1mm plasticard to the exact shape of the baseplate. The extra 1mm height provides enough clearance to prevent any binding. I hope this saves a lot of frustration to anyone else. Kev.

I run Scalextric as well as model rail. I have purchased a few Scalextric cars that claim to be DCR (Digital Chip Ready) printed on the box, only to open them up and find they are not.

Thanks Chris, I'll see how it goes. I was going to make it a manually controlled point, but it's just a little too far to reach. I'll still build the manual point kit though. Will post some pics when done. Kev.

Ok, fixed with a small drop of Singer Sewing Machine Oil on the tie bar ! The issue was with the point, not the point motor. Although it doesn't take much to spoil your day. The Hornby point is new, although it's been sitting around my shed for a while. It seemed to be free enough and working. Oh well. Thanks for all the advice and help. Cheers, Kev : )

Thanks Chris, it is indeed the R965 Made In China. I also use a Gaugemaster DS. Same deal. I think the problem might be with the alignment between this particular point and the motor. I'm going to experiment fixing it temporarily with blu tack and maybe unscrewing the point a little from the baseboard. (the point is screwed down quite tightly). Perhaps throwing things out of alignment ? Kev.

Thanks Chris, I'll try a better power supply. Cheers, Kev.

Hi Chris, I'm using an old Hornby controller for power. The one with the red knob. That might be my issue. For switching I'm using one of those EZ Connector boxes with the five banked switches. The point motor works, it just doesn't have enough grunt to move the point. I'm using speaker wire now. I found a roll in my shed. It's thinner than the other gauge I was using and easier to work with but thicker than the wire that comes with the surface point motors. I thought using a CDU would provide the necessary power to fire one point. ? Kev.

I have just installed a Hornby surface mount point motor on my layout (hard to reach spot) so I need it. Why won't it work the point ? It's all wired up correctly with a Gaugemaster CDU installed between the power supply, switch and the motor. It's DC controlled. I hit the switch and it works. As soon as I hook the motors loop over the points nub, it won't fire the point. If I hold the motor slightly in the air, it works. I have several of these surface point motors and tested them all. Same result so it's not a faulty motor. It's not screwed down yet so no, I'm not pinching the mechanism by over tightening the base to the board. Any idea what's going on ? It's doing my head in. Kev.

Yes, I have the Hornby surface mount motors. The wires are like hairs. Maybe I'll crack one open and solder some beefier wires.

Thanks guys.

Hi all, I need to extend/re-wire a couple of points. What gauge is the wire used with Hornby point motors please. I have some heavier gauge wire but it's hard to work with as the point motor wire is so thin. Thanks, Kev.

I shall do Jimbo. I'll take a few pics as they come packaged too. Just debating what colour to paint them for realistic look. Kev. PS, Thanks to Chrissaf for the heads up on these ! : )

I recently ordered some functional manual point lever kits. They arrived today. Just a quick shameless plug. They look amazing. Beautiful Brass etched kits on a sprue (Airfix style). Very tiny and delicate. No soldering, the manufacturer recommends superglue. I think they will be quite robust when assembled. Happy days. Kev : )

Hi again Chris, The CDU is all wired up & working again. Cheers. Kev.

Thanks Chris, much appreciated. Kev.

Is anyone familiar with the Gaugemaster CDU ? Looking from the top down, you have the four terminal connectors, Power IN-Power OUT. Which is POS/NEG as viewed from the top please ? It's not marked. Kev.

Thanks Rob. I'll do that. Hopefully it's something easy to get at.

Hey Jimmy, Good luck with it. I recently found the extra space to extend my layout too. Cheers bud. Kev.

Hi Al, I haven't taken her apart yet. I've never worked on a steam loco before. Looks a bit daunting with all the connecting rods. I'm hoping your right and it's just something that's come loose and needs tightening up. If I can get a better idea of how things work in these locos and what I should be looking for, I'll have a go at taking it apart. Kev.

My Hornby (Railroad) Mallard seems to have stripped an internal gear. She just freewheels now. Any idea on what parts I'll need or how to proceed ?