Foden 4400

I Like the new Badge System Even a ‘Forum Lurker’ like me can earn one !! ‘Dedicated Badge’ 👍

Faster and easier to navigate than old one, did take a bit of time to get the hang of though.

Hornby 0-4-0 Bagnal Diesel - 8 pin decoder, power bank & speaker.

Have you tried doing a ‘Forced Delete’ on the App then pressing the ‘Factory Reset Button’ on the underside of the HM6000 Unit ? It worked for me - I was able to connect via mesh then.

Downloaded & running on Bluetooth, some excellent features on the App. Initially had to ‘manually reset’ my HM6010’s to link with HM7000 App.

Next Generation are going to be smaller apparently. Will get the body on if I Dremel a bit out I think. Going to wait for the app to make sure it runs properly before I do any modifications though.

N18TXS Bluetooth DCC Sound Decoder (Next18-pin) is too long to fit in a Bachmann Johnson 1P 0-4-0 - clips in perfectly but body won’t go back on - am disappointed

Fishy - just googled “BLE DCC” Google wasn’t very good at all, just two references …….

I found the website in respect to locos very unclear when it comes to Digital Spec. with numerous drop down menus, abbreviations, filters etc. I bought a paper catalogue in the end, which I found much simpler - I don’t think I would have found the Bargain Class 73 without it. Also why i asked the question about terminology for Ble DDC I understand the concept - but not the terminology/ abbreviations !

Thanks RAF96 I have noticed that the PWM settings were modified on my HM6K on a software update. As you have HM7K you will know with authority that higher frequency are tolerated better. Hopefully I will find out for myself this month.

getting full power everywhere by not having any high resistance paths (via joiners and point clips)getting a clean, undistorted DCC signal to the locos wherever they are on the layout Thanks for the info. I do know the difference between the difference between DC DCC HM6000 & HM7000 control & how a Loco is controlled by each system. I have had the first 2 previously am currently running HM6000 and have HM7000 decoders on order and I have even had a 5th Zero 1 which you may not of heard of but it was very early form of DDC run at 18 volts DC. There was no plugs or sockets with Zero1 you had to solder the decoders wires to wheel pick ups & motor feeds, have done this quite a few times. My layout is on a 3 1/2 by 5 feet. The single oval which works fine with with one feed using HM6000 and I know it will work just as fine with HM7000 (with full power to the track & loco motor control via decoder and Bluetooth single) I know to get the best out of HM7000 I will have to make my sidings permanently live. What I don’t know is why a Bluetooth decoder with sound behaves differently with the different PWM & which PWM gives the best sound quality? I know why a motor operates differently with the same voltage but at different PWM’s HM6000 enables you to set the PWM at various levels between 61.27Hz & 7811.92Hz If you connect the PSU directly to the track you won’t be able to alter the PWM does this matter in respect to sound quality? Thanks

I am getting just over 14v across the rails while a loco is running at full speed with a reasonable long train behind it. I would rather leave my HM6000 powered up as this will link in with the Bluetooth Mesh System, this will help stabilise the link between my Bluetooth iPad & the BLE decoders on the locos. I have thought about getting a 15V 4 amp PSU from Hornby and using this to power the track directly and leaving my existing P9100 PSU Powering the HM6000 to help the mesh. This is all new to me but I am enjoying gathering all this information prior to getting HM7000 app & decoders I failed with Zero1 many years ago, it turned me away from the hobby - I am determined to get my HM7000 perfect.

Thanks for the information all very useful. I wrongly thought that DDC required numerous track feeds to ensure a good command signal through the rails to the decoder by way of a modified AC type square waveform, I did not know it was done to eliminate the voltage or current drop through fish plates etc. to enable the loco motor to turn properly. I was hoping that BLE and a ‘stay alive’ with a couple of track feeds through my HM6000 would be fine.

Going to see how I go on - I only have a single oval & 7 point station yard feed by 2 feeds from a HM600O plus an addition feed for a kick back siding, points controlled HM6010, I have used PECO track so I don’t know if points clips will work with them ? I wonder if BLE will lead to battery powered locos? - no track power needed ….