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Building a B12


gowest

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R

you say funny didnt Brunel build big steam pumping stations to suck train up and down a line in south Devon but the rats kept eating the leather seals on the pipe between the track.

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I never know how much detail to go into with this job but keep plodding away so for the next bit......Using some engineers blue on the bottom of the valve body and fixing 2  1.2 mm studs into the top of the cylinder block the position of the 4 holes to carry the steam across to the cylinder could be located a little more accurately .

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These blue blobs  were then spotted to locate the drill bit and the holes drilled in place by hand to only 2 mm as i do not want them to run through into the cylinder walls..

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The drawing might be of some help as to how I drilled the holes for the steam passages 

Here you see me taping out the holes to be blanked off 1.1 mm.

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In all 2 holes each end and 4 in the top of the cylinder block were taped out 1.1 mm so that these drillings can be blanked off by making up small threaded brass grub screws which were 1.2 mm making them a force fit in the holes to make them steam tight.

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With the grub screws cleaned off to the level of the cylinder block you can hardly see where they are.

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Next the top of the cylinder block had the 4 holes counter bored to take some very small o ring gaskets so that when the valve body is fitted to the top of the cylinder block you get a good gas type seal between the to parts and the heat generated from the supper heater above will transfer to the cylinders keeping then nice and hot.

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Now all the drillings have been completed the passageways needed to be flushed out with water “a” to clear any swarf from the passages and “b” to make sure that none of the blanking screws have blocked a passageway but all was well. 

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The Hornby A4 cylinder block look very big against my little cylinder block but they are both built in the same way. 

All I need to do now is fit the front covers by soldering them in place and put the cylinders back in the frames to see if it runs?

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It is indeed a thing of great beauty. For me Ken you can go into as much detail as you wish, I love reading about what you are doing, I probably only understand about 20% though but that's my lack of attention at school probably. Keep it up. R-

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It is indeed a thing of great beauty. For me Ken you can go into as much detail as you wish, I love reading about what you are doing, I probably only understand about 20% though but that's my lack of attention at school probably. Keep it up. R-

 

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It is indeed a thing of great beauty. For me Ken you can go into as much detail as you wish, I love reading about what you are doing, I probably only understand about 20% though but that's my lack of attention at school probably. Keep it up. R-

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Roger B

scholl does not guarantee fame and fortune or great skills I believe when George Stevenson built the Rocket he couldn't read or right 

i only payed attention in Metal work Wood work Potery and science my English teacher once said of me "My dog can write better than you with a scrubbing brush"  what confidence builds they were in them days!

So  thank your lucky stars I'm not writing this in my best hand writing as you would never be able to read it. 

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Ken

I watched the video and note that the pistons only operate as and when the valve rod is turning.

I presume this is turning by way of the centre wheel set gearing  and  that the motor biases the valve linkage into forward or reverse As required.

Is this bias lever accurate enough to feather the throttle like the real thing for economical running at speed.

Rob

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Hi Rob

the valve events can not be changed and as you say the effect may not be what engineers were trying to do for full size engines in saving steam water and coal so no cut off on these very small locos but only the regulator has the control of engine performance but people out there have enough trouble driving these engines with the controls they have any more would not help i think.

just a note its now 2 am in the morning and i have been for the last 4 hours trying to get the engine running on 20 psi of air and great to say i have at last got the wheels turning. more to come

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oil on wheels not a problem when we get the sanding gear fitted.

at the junction of Stratford Work and the main line because the bends in the track were so tight they had automatic greasers which was a drums of grease with a pipe a pump and a lever next to the rail. when an engine went over the lever it pumped grease onto the track allowing the wheels on one side to slip saving wheel wear and track wear i know this as i stood right in a pile of grease before dad could say mind that gr!!!

 

now it looks like it will run i need to look at things like the frames which have holes all over the place as refit after refit was carried out so thinking of making some new ones, will look at that and other parts in an effort to make them look and fit better.

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There are more things to the real railway than you could ever guess. Grease to make wheels slip and in another topic, automatic rail watering of the rails to prevent flange squeal annoying the neighbours.

 

Yes the frames look as if they could go up a gauge or two, but as space for that cylinder block is tight it may even need a joggle.

 

Once the loco part is done then that tender poses even more challenges.

 

As they say onwards and upwards.

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As my consultant engineer if I give you the inside dimension may be you can start thinking of it

The first advice I was given by a Cpl Drill Instructor when I joined the RAF was 'never volunteer to do nothing'.

 

That's a double negative and with me being a bit dim then, I stuck to it by the letter and its kept me busy ever since.

 

Glad to help Ken - send me a rough sketch via email if preferred with the critical dims of the various bits (cylinder block, wheel and crank clearance, bearing blocks, body internal width, tender part sizes,  typical gauges used, etc) and I'll put my thinking cap on.

 

Usual engineer's rules apply - make it twice as strong as it needs to be, three times as heavy as it must be and four times more expensive than it can be, before the boss takes the job away and builds it as was at Rev 1.

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email on its way 

as for the engin well as you will have seen it runs so now needs some work to make it a bit smart as with so many mods it wants a good clean up as i will go over what has come about.....................

 

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With this part out the way the cylinders were refitted in the frames and the air pipe connected to the engine using a brass fitting and with some effort the wheels were turned but nothing seamed to work correctly as time passed it seemed the valve events were all wrong and it was never going to run.Then it came to light the centre axle was in the wrong way round which meant the frames were all made in a way that turning them round was not going to work so will need new frames but in the mean time just needs some filing out of the holes and re drilling of fixing holes and a second test can be carried out.And low and behold if youve seen the video the engine did run and was I pleased so need to look at the engine in a view to make it a more soundly built chassis with less holes..

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It was thought that maybe some repair work to the frames was the best way to go as to make new frames would be a long job and if changes along the way to the new frames would mean more new frames further down the line and most new engines that did main line service would develop faults after time even the S69 engine had some frame cracking brought about by fitting such large cylinders inside the frames so a little work on the frames now would allow me to carry on the build the do more testing.

 

It was time to sort out the rear axle in the set of 3 up to now they had just been running in the thin frames if they were solidly mounted would this hamper the engines running but as with most models the middle set of wheels do not touch the rail so the bearings and housing like the middle axle would be the type of design need 

A brass housing was turned up to take the 6 mm bearings the housing would also double as a frame stretcher making the frames a little stronger and solid.Here you see the Hornby axle re machined at the ends to take the bearings.

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/media/tinymce_upload/93cd8913b750bac7de78ca848ae5ca32.JPGThis picture shows the finished axle fitted in the housing and its bearings ready to go into the frames.

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The register on the end of the housing was made a tight fit in both the frames and the 3 holes drilled in place.These holes were then tapped out 1.2 mm and fixed in place with 3 screws.

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Now with all 3 axles in place and all changes made the frames were a better built unit and from the pictures here that these chunky bearing housings added some rigidity to the assembly and would only improve as more parts were added.

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Those axle housings are doing a good job of acting in lieu of standard cross frames Ken.

 

The whole thing looks fairly rigid now, and as you say will be even more so when the working components are reinstalled.

 

Did you ever find out if those outside connecting rods could be reversed so the rigid link was between the leading drivers and the centre valve timing wheels to give more positive valve timing or is the gain not worth the effort.

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