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Starting from scratch


Shir

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Jeff..............DCC ready locos are DC locos at the same price.......I buy a decoder for £11 - £16......so where's the huge expense for DCC..........I have one Elite controller cost £160 that can run several locos at the same time...........in DC you would need several controllers........costs the same.........you can buy £2000's worth of DC stuff or £2000's worth of DCC stuff.........ok, there might be one small loco less but thats it...........I speak from experience........ 😀..............HB

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@WTD.........You can't run 2 locos in opposite directions on the same DC track........I've just tried turning one loco round to face t'other way but it still travels in the same direction as before........different for DCC of course........ 😀.......HB

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I said that HB. I said I can run two in the same direction not in different directions. Jeff said on DC you can't run two on one track. I took that to mean that with DCC you can run two in opposite directions. Doesn't matter really, like I said both systems have good and bad points. Each to their own. 

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I have an up and down circuit plus two sets of sidings. I can run two trains round the circuits and another two, one in each siding area. So generally I will have three on the go and the fourth if I have my multi multi task head on. They are all under direct control and can be stopped and started with the turn of a knob, no thinking involved. Perfect for me.  🤔

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@WTD.........You can't run 2 locos in opposite directions on the same DC track........I've just tried turning one loco round to face t'other way but it still travels in the same direction as before. 

 They will run in oppo if you reverse the polarity of the magnet in one of them. I think?
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Another thing to avoid when starting from scratch is 1st radius curves unless you want to be restricted to running 0-4-0's and older UK made models. Most China made models don't like running on 1st radius curves, 2nd radius tends to be the minimum. As for DCC and DC both systems have their pros and cons.

 

The basic DCC trainset controllers are best described as basic in what they can do. The same is true of the cheapo DC controllers in the sets. Investment in a decent controller for either DCC or DC is adviseable.

 

I prefer DC for those starting out owing to it's simplicity of setting up. Basic DCC systems are easy to set up but may prove more daunting to those starting out who want to do more, but aren't into pushing buttons and messing around with CV's. Granted a loco from a DCC set will run from the box as the decoder chip in the loco will be set as loco 03 default setting. However if you want to do more then it's button pushing time.

DC has it's limitations in what you can do with locos, but wiring is simple. You tend to get more wiring with DC which puts a lot of beginners off as DCC in early days needs less wiring.

 

With DCC you get controlable lighting and sound if the loco has a sound chip. DCC sound to be honestis pretty rubbish as a rule and most locos don't sound anything like the full sized thing, you can however with spending serious money get some good speakers and sound decoders. However the speaker is limited by size in the model, some decoders use the channel method to give an approximation of stereo sounds, it works well. However we hear in stereo so it can never be exact sound reproduction unless you have very good sound recordings, two speakers in the loco and surround stereo sound capability on the decoder chip.

It's a swings and roundabouts situation neither DC or DCC are outright winners.

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Another thing to do when starting from scratch is to run the models in slowly, don't take them out of the box and race them from new.  Like anything mechanical models require a running in period at different speeds, this will increase the life of the models, start with slow speeds and slowly over an hour ramp the speed up each time allowing the loco in particular to settle in at the new speed.

 

An investment in a track plans book is also a good idea for building that first layout as well.

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 Completely OT BUT you have to be careful if using Hornby Dublo 3 rail - the controller forward MEANS forward. (Chimney first no matter which way round it is placed on the track) If you turn your engine around it will go in the opposite direction to another facing it.  I had just this problem when I wanted to couple a pair of Hornby Dublo EE Type 1s (D8000) nose to nose like they were frequently to be seen when I was working at Barrow Hill and Tinsley. I had to reverse the motor magnet in one in order to do this.  However the  one with the reversed motor has a two rail body, numbered D8017, so I know which one responds the opposite way to what is normal.

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Well to get back to the OP's question I can say I am very happy with my DCC layout, including some sound equipped locos and I am very happy with my 'N' gauge DC layout........everything works as well as expected and having picked up so many tips and advice from this Forum, rarely have a problem........also my Hornby Dublo kit is great (also DCC)..........so entertainment value is just the same whether DC or DCC....... 😉.........HB

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Hi all

Well in 52 years I never found DC limiting it has always done what I require of it and thats all it needs to do.

It runs trains, changes points, lights things up, controls signals, interlocks things if thats what you want to do.

OK so you may need to make up some ccts to do some things so what if that's what you want you make the cct

Loco sound well it is just not required so I don't need DCC

If I want to run trains in opposing directions that can be done with DC as well but the wiring gets very very complicated

But you would want to be very sure your signal system was wired up to handle that and worked on the fail safe principle.

Oh and if you make block instruments you can communicate between stations in a prototypical manner as well 😆

all in wonderfull DC 😎

regards John

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I got a Country Flyer set for Christmas last year and supplemented it with the Flying Scotsman set shortly afterwards.  The plan was to run the standard track extension packs until we realised to relocate into a better place to set it all up.

Since then I have spent the last few months building baseboards and putting a more expansive tracklayout in design that works in the loft room i have it in.  Things quickly escalated lol.

This is giving me an up and a down mainline along with a branchline as well with some sidings.

Although I am not planning to, or able to afford to go mad with lots of things right now, I am intending to start it as a DCC as it seems much better in terms of flexibility and setup.  I will start with a select and go from there.

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