Jump to content

Power to 3-rail system


Recommended Posts

AH, well, there you have it, to my mind your controller, is too small. Wont have enough grunt for 3 rail. Fine for 00. Have a look on ebay for a Hamment and Morgan Clipper or Duette. Otherwise, once you have track all joined and connected, you will be very disappointed with loco performance. It might run slowly, but more than likely immediately overload your bachmann. These old locos need plenty of power, to move away. You will not regret buying a clipper or duette. Built like tanks, they will run any 3 rail loco, and also have uncontrolled supply for points, etc . Just saying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

AH, well, there you have it, to my mind your controller, is too small. Wont have enough grunt for 3 rail. Fine for 00. Have a look on ebay for a Hamment and Morgan Clipper or Duette. Otherwise, once you have track all joined and connected, you will be very disappointed with loco performance. It might run slowly, but more than likely immediately overload your bachmann. These old locos need plenty of power, to move away. You will not regret buying a clipper or duette. Built like tanks, they will run any 3 rail loco, and also have uncontrolled supply for points, etc . Just saying.

Thanks again. Will do as suggested re controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is supposedly conductive and in theory will also protect old steel rails against further corrosion, but in my mind oil is oil and by nature a lubricant hence you can get wheel slip.

I am assuming you mean in general about steel rails. Dublo 3 rail were brass rails on a steel base. Personally I wouldn't put any oil on any tracks, especially ATF.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ellocoloco, hi, each to their own. On their day, and bearing in mind they were aimed at childs market, they made a lot of kids, very content. To my mind there is nothing better to listen to , when they pound round tin track. As to modern models being better, Ridiculously expensive, fragile, cheap motors, and lack of spares. I have no problem, sourcing very cheap Hornby Dublo spares. .

I agree with you Yelrow. Back in the 60's Dublo was far better made and realistic compared to the Triang offering but I will say Triang had some great toy innovations for children with Triang railways. There was a lot of daft play wagons that would attract youngsters such as searchlight cars, Girraffe cars etc. All modelled on fantasy but with play value. Triang was a great toy maker delving into allsorts of things with great toy play with value for money. Their trains were good but HD had more model appeal. Today's offerings are not comparable as they are scale models with a ridiculous price. I am at present detailing some Railroad LNER teaks to make them look better. That plastc look will be less and more like the £70+ versions. I have 5 to start with and have my eye on at least 2 more at a tenner each. $ arrived today and look as if they have never been run. Total cost £24

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Giraffe, car, Helicopter wagon, exploding wagon, and missile wagon, purely collective, and boxed. My brother, who is in a wheelchair, has a vast Triang collection, in his loft. He has so far refused any access. Cannot get excited over any of todays offerings, the TTS P2, being the last loco i bought, solely for its pulling power, as pulls a fearful lot of coaches . Out of interest, i also have 0 gauge clockwork, in 2 display cabinets. Hate to think what will happen to it all, in the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

In regards to steel track I used Wahl Hair clipper oil on light to medium rusty steel track, I rub the most rust off with a track rubber than apply the oil with a cotton bud and leave for a couple of days, the track is given a light rub and it looks like new. The oil seems to soak into the steel rail and dries with no residue.


In regards to Triang wagons I have open wagons that have drop opening doors and drop sides, hopper wagons with bottom opening doors, box vans with both hinged and sliding doors also side tipping log wagons in my collection, some say they a toy like, I think they are more realistic parked in a siding being loaded or unloaded than todays offerings

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AH, well, there you have it, to my mind your controller, is too small. Wont have enough grunt for 3 rail. Fine for 00. Have a look on ebay for a Hamment and Morgan Clipper or Duette. Otherwise, once you have track all joined and connected, you will be very disappointed with loco performance. It might run slowly, but more than likely immediately overload your bachmann. These old locos need plenty of power, to move away. You will not regret buying a clipper or duette. Built like tanks, they will run any 3 rail loco, and also have uncontrolled supply for points, etc . Just saying.
Thanks again. Will do as suggested re controller.

Hi again Yelrow

 

 

Track all cleaned and running now, though runs well in reverse but forward motion very sluggish. Any ideas ?

Also seen a couple of Duettes on ebay. Bidding on one but not only one interested. Other one is to buy, but 3 of the terminal screws are missing. Do you know if there are alternatives or are these specialist/specific?

 

 

Jamjar

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AH, well, there you have it, to my mind your controller, is too small. Wont have enough grunt for 3 rail. Fine for 00. Have a look on ebay for a Hamment and Morgan Clipper or Duette. Otherwise, once you have track all joined and connected, you will be very disappointed with loco performance. It might run slowly, but more than likely immediately overload your bachmann. These old locos need plenty of power, to move away. You will not regret buying a clipper or duette. Built like tanks, they will run any 3 rail loco, and also have uncontrolled supply for points, etc . Just saying.
Thanks again. Will do as suggested re controller.
Hi again Yelrow

Track all cleaned and running now, though runs well in reverse but forward motion very sluggish. Any ideas ?
Also seen a couple of Duettes on ebay. Bidding on one but not only one interested. Other one is to buy, but 3 of the terminal screws are missing. Do you know if there are alternatives or are these specialist/specific?

Jamjar

PS

Do you use track screws and if so what size/head type are they ? Got some short brass flatheads but found a couple were just touching live rail and shorting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jamjar, hi, yes, i use dome headed brass screws. Duette terminal screws are specific, but i have missing ones. Use choc block, double connecter( plastic blocks with screws in. Screw on side to thread on Terminal screw, and screw wire in other. Works well. So you could buy that one and use my system. As for running, simply down to underpowered controller., i think. These locos go backwards easier than forwards. Takes more grunt to move forward. Can tell you how to service loco, if it persists with decent controller. Clippers are just as good, but only control one loco.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jamjar, hi, yes, i use dome headed brass screws. Duette terminal screws are specific, but i have missing ones. Use choc block, double connecter( plastic blocks with screws in. Screw on side to thread on Terminal screw, and screw wire in other. Works well. So you could buy that one and use my system. As for running, simply down to underpowered controller., i think. These locos go backwards easier than forwards. Takes more grunt to move forward. Can tell you how to service loco, if it persists with decent controller. Clippers are just as good, but only control one loco.

Sorry to go on!

What size are the dome headed brass screws ^ where do you get yours from ?

Can't quite visualise the "choc block" system- have you got a photo ?

Noted re clipper - seen some but most say "untested".

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...Use choc block, double connecter( plastic blocks with screws in. Screw one side to thread on Terminal screw, and screw wire in other. Works well.
...
Can't quite visualise the "choc block" system- have you got a photo ?

 

 

I think what John is saying is - find a bit of choc block that is large enough bore to fit over the controller studs that are missing their nuts. Tighten the screw in the choc block to secure it to the stud then put your feeder wire from the track into the other end of the choc block and secure with the other screw. Good lateral thinking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buy it now , fully tested, 35.00 looks good to me. (duette). I would only buy a tested one, looks genuine. I paid 25.00 for mine, some 10 years ago, so price is fair. I live in France, so can only suggest. Custom charges stop me buying from ebay now, It would be worth having it tested, before you try it. Any electrician, will do it for a tiny fee. mine charges about 5.00.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×
  • Create New...