HM7000 v. R8312

[DougyDo]

I have a basic layout with a few locos and a few points. It all runs on analogue. My question is, if I want to digitize my locos, layout and points, do I go down the HM7000 route or do I go down the R8312/E-Link/Railmaster route?

[LTSR_NSE]

The answer depends upon your highest priority:

• From a cost perspective HM7000 decoders & app wins hands down (provided you already possess a smartphone or tablet). You could then use either the HM6010 Bluetooth accessory controller (or a simple DC switched setup) to control your points.

• If you require a physical/tactile controller - then Select/Elite or non-Hornby make are your preferred options.

• If you want a fully functioning computer-controlled layout with programs running and loads of options you haven’t mentioned - then e-Link & Railmaster or non-Hornby makes are your preferred options.

[DougyDo]

Thank you. Very helpful and clear.

[Fishmanoz]

Or you can use a combination.

Particularly if you are starting from now, I suggest HM7000 has the competition at its mercy currently, but they will catch up. In my opinion, they will have to.

Then having started with low cost and very capable, you could look down the track at whether you prefer physical knobs and/or more extensive computer control.

[rpjallan]

If I was you, in your situation I would be going down the HM7000 route and if that meets your needs then no need to go any further. None of us really know yet how the HM7000 system will be expanded over time as the basics aren't even available yet.

If in time you find it limiting for some reason, you can look what is available to meet your needs.

[Brew Man]

Given that the HM7000 decoders are fully functional under conventional DCC control, there is little to lose by trying it out. The app is free and beyond that, the only hardware that maybe required is the dongle, (£40) and possibly a PSU for the track, (£ not very much).

[Fishmanoz]

Given you are starting from now, you will not need a dongle which is only to allow you to control non-HM7000 decoders from the App, and you don’t have any.

Depending how you are connecting your DC controller to the track, you will most likely need an adaptor cable to plug its PSU to a power track.

And you will need to open up the power track black plastic cover between the rails and remove the capacitor in there by snipping it off at its legs.

[DougyDo]

R8312 is now out of stock. Perhaps Hornby is trying to make my decision for me!

[Fishmanoz]

If so, they are being wise on your behalf.

Although in the longer term, the decision may not be so clear-cut. Factors include:

• you are swapping a laptop/PC tethered to the layout for an App via Bluetooth on your phone/tablet
• but currently the App controls only locos. Hornby’s solution for points and accessories is the HM6010/R8247 which you buy separately
• with RM, it still needs to be paired with an accessory decoder but you have access to a wide range, not just the 8247
• with RM, you can automate your movement via programs

But still a wise decision.

[Skelton Junction]

Given you are starting from now, you will not need a dongle which is only to allow you to control non-HM7000 decoders from the App, and you don’t have any.

Depending how you are connecting your DC controller to the track, you will most likely need an adaptor cable to plug its PSU to a power track.

And you will need to open up the power track black plastic cover between the rails and remove the capacitor in there by snipping it off at its legs.

 

 

 

 

Fishy,

will a duette be ok for psu required when putting current in extra places on a layout? (Provided I’ve done the capacitor thing you’ve mentioned). This is in preparation for HM7000.

 

 

[LTSR_NSE]

Regarding using a Duette - Hornby have stated that analogue controllers which incorporate PWM (or other electronic tricks) can interfere with the power supplied to the HM 7000 decoders and prevent them from working optimally.

Therefore Hornby advise instead connecting a PSU directly to the track using their adapter cable (or via wires soldered to the track).

If you (or anyone else) knows for a fact that a specific make/model of analogue controller definitely outputs pure DC - then that make/model should be compatible - but it will need the control’s power turned up to max.