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What's on your workbench?


81F

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Completed the replacement pipework underneath that Duchess of Gloucester I purchased last month.

Some additions were required, but it resembles what the pipework should look like courtesy of some lost wax castings from Wizard Models but looks the part now. Locomotive is a superbly smooth runner.

Al.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi

Been repairing a Davy Crockett Body had to replace the whistle and boiler dome with 3D printer parts, just replaced the roof on the cab with a 3D printed replacement the same person makes the lamp for the front which I have now orderedforum_image_65ad24a65dd6b.thumb.png.f60983ff658651fa0a05f92a305bb500.pngforum_image_65ad24acf05d9.thumb.png.f82498271940991fc3bcce5d4ea1b44d.png

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Tony57, I think it’s the same 3D printer who makes the front cow-catcher for that loco, which happily also fits the clockwork wild-west tank. I tried to get him to 3D print the funnel and lamp for the clockwork loco but he needed something to take measurements off and make sure there was a demand.

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Hi Rana

Your right it is the same guy, he now makes the front lamp which I have brought and fitted it, still have to paint it, it nice that for a few pounds the body with everything missing and a broken roof has been made complete.

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I've been having a 'little play' with my rebuilt W1.

I was never happy with the chimney - poorly seated, but it's actually part of the 'body clamping, is metal and the front mounting bolt screws into it - now seated properly, the chimney looks great.

I went to 'the darker side' as well, and had a go at straightening out the valvegear - just looks wrong, like the elbows are out all of the time. I've managed to both ease in 'the elbows' and also got the valvegear moving perhaps too much, so a little more adjustment needed, but looks better than the near-zero movement as arrived.

Great running locomotive, but the usual flywheel-associated problem - difficult to ease off slowly through the inertia.

Al.

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I have decided I am not buying anything new rolling stock wise this year but I am repairing some of my older Tri-ang stuff, I have just ordered 14x 3D printed replacement front cowlings for my secondhand F7 transcontinental diesels, 7x for MK2 and 7x for MK3 couplings(1955 to 1970s) next week I need to order 14 fuel tanks, I have got 23 powered and non powered A units plus 3 dummy B units to do.

Having just repaired my 5 powered and 4 non powered double ended Blue B60s replacing 8 front cowling and 3 of the 7 missing fuel tanks, 4 more on order, I like the ones I brought as screws hold them in place rather than them being clip fit.

I have 4 switchers and 4 overhead electric locos to follow, I will need at least 5 Tri-ang cross arm pantographs to bring them back to speck as well as front cowlings and fuel tanks.

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Tony, please keep the photos of the Tri-ang repairs coming! I need to fix a few of mine and like you have a box of 3D printed parts awaiting fitting. I’m not going down the original Tri-ang pantograph route as I bought a job lot of mainly Lima and Jouef continental ones and although they are smaller are close enough for me. There were two people doing Davy Crockett spares on eBay but I think one of them has stopped.

I think the next stage will be some of the transfers that were available on eBay, I need to see if they are still available. I was very happy with the ones I got for the Baltic tanks.

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I currently have a Triang/Hornby Ivatt 2-6-0 dating from the 1970s. It looked in rather good condition but the chassis was totally seized. Having stripped down the chassis to wheels and main chassis block H ave now got the wheels to turn after liberal applications of white spirit and partial re-oiling.

I have now re-assembled it but using a "3 pole upgrade" motor from Peters spares in the hope that it will make fitting a DCC chip a little easier.

If this works I have another to do and may think about doing the same to other X04/X03 fitted locos. The prime candidate being a Poly Chassis which I might use to create a GWR "Birdcage" tank.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Just completed replacing the missing cowlings and fuel tanks on my collection of Transcontinental diesel locos it has made a big difference to the look of them. Some will need new whisker transfers but that can wait for now. Couple of the electric overheads will need new wiring that will also have to be put on hold for now.

Next job the 10x transcontinental 4 6 2 Pacific "Hiawatha" some need the smoke units replacing / disconnecting, several need the light bulbs replacing possibly with a led. I have at least 4 versions body wise, the best thing is they are all on the same R50 princess chassis dating from 1954 till 1973. Until I start the strip downs I don't know which is which.

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Hi

Lovely wet day.

Been working on the Hiawatha collection so far 4 completed, 2x Canadian 1542s, these have the A3/4 tenders with the steam sound (scrap box) 1x 1955 version brought back to speck and a 1962 Hiawatha with working Head Light, think the smoke unit is dead need to think do I get a new smoke unit or not.

Several have the wrong chassis as they don't have the Walschaerts valve gear, which they were fitted with from day one. Will repurpose them to Princess locos.

Currently bringing a 1958 version back to speck, this is when the working head lamp first appeared.

One interesting discovery several of the early model have a rivet attached to the pickup lead with the insulation sleeve push into the middle rather than the clip.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Final 4 Hiawatha's completed, brought a replacement chassis for 1 loco a 58 version with working head light. Next  batch of locos will be my Dock Yard Shunters plus 2 Transcontinental Versions. after them its checking my Budd Railcar Collection, may need to replace the plastic drive cogs and axels as I noticed at least one power car had worn down.

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Tony57, I have come across those rivet connectors as well on several old locos including Princesses, Jintys and Nellies. There doesn’t seem to be any particular reasoning or timescale and there is also no guarantee they are original as all the locos were second hand. 

I think the budd wheels are the same as the hymek/class 31/EM2.

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Hi Rana

That the thing I love with Tri-ang / Tri-ang Hornby the commonality of parts, the axel are the same on R351 EM2, R758 Hymek, R751 Class 37 R357 Class 31 and R352 Budd Railcar. I am lucky Peters spares has had some reproductions made if I do need some replacements.

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My first time posting a photo on the new forum! See how it goes….

Off work today with the Lurgy and felt a bit more like it this afternoon so finally fixed my 1960s Graham Farish Prairie tank using parts from a contemporary pannier chassis. Now runs superbly. Overly crude by today’s standards but weighs a ton and quite powerful. I always wanted one of these as a child and I have had one or two with the plunger pick-ups and rubbishy massive motor

that have very quickly gone on to someone else. The motor in this one is similar to the Wrenn R1. 

How do I post a photo?

 

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@Rana Temporia - Down the bottom of the reply/post window is a paperclip icon with options to add files from device or a web link to an external image host.

There is currently a glitch (that prevents those who posted a significant number of images to the old forum) - so you may currently only be able to use the web link option?

Edited by LTSR_NSE
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On 2/19/2024 at 6:01 PM, LTSR_NSE said:

@Rana Temporia - Down the bottom of the reply/post window is a paperclip icon with options to add files from device or a web link to an external image host.

There is currently a glitch (that prevents those who posted a significant number of images to the old forum) - so you may currently only be able to use the web link option?

Thanks, I can only see pictures I have posted over the past few months and can’t add anything new as I don’t have a website. I have tried pasting but that doesn’t work either. The world will have to wait for my picture of a restored 1963ish Farish 61xx tank that is older than I am!

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Just received a replacement motor for my hard-worked BR blue class 08 shunter.

It'll be a combination of the motor and a good clean, but I'll get it going reliably again.

My fault for setting it going and leaving for hours on end .... no regrets as always looked great trundling around the rails!

Al.

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New motor installed - I'm one of those annoying impatient types at times! - so I'll just reassemble and see how she goes tonight.

I suspect the old 08 needs a bit of a clean as well, but there was a huge difference in performance between the old and new motors, so I thought I'd swap to the new one.

Al.

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