Would this work?

[Baynester420]

I’m experimenting with track layouts at the moment - and I’m not sure if this white loop with sidings would work or whether it would short circuit.

The outside black loop will be fine as it is just one continuous circuit - and will go over the white one on a raised level where they intersect.

Can the sidings merge into one as I’ve done here and then return back on a loop via a point junction?

just want to make sure I do the right thing before I commit to drawing round it and moving on to ballast decoration etc.

Thanks in advance! Still a newbie but enjoying learning!

[RDS]

The way you have connected the inner loop back onto itself, will result in a short circuit as you suggest.

[Brew Man]

What you have created there is a reverse loop it can work but needs special consideration and will depend on whether you are running DC or dcc.

[Rog RJ]

It will create a short circuit but it's not the end of the world.

If you are running DCC it can be handled by a reverse loop module and 4 insulating fishplates.

In DC it would still need 4 IRJs but a reversing switch would be used instead of the RLM. Trains would need to be halted in the loop, the reversing switch thrown and the controller direction reversed to allow trains to proceed.

[96RAF]

Have a read of this ...

https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/faq-do-i-need-a-reverse-loop-module-and-how-do-i-install-one-322539

You also need to give yourself more space between the wall and your track as ‘end throw’ of longer rolling stock with hit the wall. Also consider safety walls to prevent cliff drops.

[Yelrow]

Baynester, hi, you do not give size of layout, but to raise track using modern locos, needs considerable space, as they dont like inclines. There are suggested scales, but its a bit hit and miss. the longer the run up and descent, the better. You will be surprised how many problems you get. Single locos are easy, tis when you add a load, it all goes pear shaped.

[Baynester420]

Thanks all! Appreciate the advice!

The length of the boards down the long side is 266cm and the width is 122cm.

Not sure if that helps re the incline - sorry I forgot to include that info originally!

Also - could the reverse loop issue be sorted by making a second loop inside the big one with a siding branch/ branches coming off that?

I will be running both loops on individual controllers.

[96RAF]

A simple teardrop reverse loop like yours can be sorted on a DC layout by way of a DPDT centre off switch as explained in Para 3.2 (page 10) of the RL guide previously referenced.

[rpjallan]

Unless you are particularly set on this plan, I would have a look at some other track plans or play with some layout software. I think you could better utilise your space. I know what it's like - I don't have enough room for my main layout at the moment & I've been trying to plan an L shape shelf layout in the mean time...

[Gordonvale]

In DC it would still need 4 IRJs but a reversing switch would be used instead of the RLM. Trains would need to be halted in the loop, the reversing switch thrown and the controller direction reversed to allow trains to proceed.

 

 

On my DC layout, I use double IRJs at each end of the loop plus double IRJs in the middle of the loop.

By utilising 3 controllers (3 DC motor speed controllers, powered from a common DC lab supply) a train can negotiate the loop without stopping. This setup also allows for sidings off the loop.

[Baynester420]

I’ve readjusted the experimental layout ….. reverse loop taken out!

[Baynester420]

I’ve readjusted the layout - and taken out the reverse loop…..

[96RAF]

In the interests of operability you should make your sidings as long as possible. Short sidings (and platforms) are of little use.

To get the maximum parking space . . .

[ModelerXYZ]

RAF is right. The longer the sidings the better. Don't do gradients if you can help it. They only cause trouble. Just like on a heritage real railway, you can never have enough siding space.

[Baynester420]

I’ve slowed down and tried testing one big loop with a siding or two. It gets about a fifth of the way round the loop then stops.

is it the piece of track that it’s stopped on that is dodgy or somewhere else in the loop?

or maybe the fishplates on the piece of track where it stops?

thanks in advance!

[Rog RJ]

Need a drawing or photo of the layout as it is and indication of where the loco stops.

[RDS]

Assuming your layout is DC, a simple check with a Multi-meter at each track piece around the layout will show where the problem lies.

[Baynester420]

It goes from the one end of the green line and stops at the other end of the green line on the corner.

the power is attached to the track near the bottom right.

[96RAF]

Use a meter or 12 bulb tester to see if there is power on the rest of the track, noting it cannot get past a point went it is switched away from the power path. I realise the picture is re-used and that your track is actually connected together but check the fishplates are tight and the adjacent rails correctly inserted. If the track power is good, pay attention to the loco. Is it only one loco or any loco. Does it stop in the same places if you physically turn it round on track.

[Going Spare]

The place where the locomotive stops is close to where the power clip is attached to the track - so as well as checking the tightness of rail joiners, check that the contacts on the clip are making firm contact with the rails and that the cable plugs are firmly inserted in the clip so that there is no movement between the two sets of contact points caused by the weight of the locomotive passing through that area.

[Brew Man]

In addition to the above advice, check that the rails are clean by applying IPA and/or some kind of cleaning rubber.