david_watts1 Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 11 hours ago, Silver Fox 17 said: As far as I know they were BR corporate blue with twin arrows, but, using modellers licence I say the green one is acceptable to run with steam as they entered service in 67 hence me buying one. At sometime I want to paint out the upper yellow from around the windows and put a BR late crest on. I really wish you hadn't mentioned the green one as it does look good and now I think I need one for my collection even though I swore I would stick to era 3, 4 and 5.💸 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 @Silver Fox 17Well, I blame you for encouraging me to get 'Sir Edward Elgar'. New sound fitted version from an eBid seller for £166.25 delivered. Bargain!! (NB eBid not the famous one). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelton Junction Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 In answer to the OP it’s an absolute yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 Just checked and Sir Edward should arrive today. Perhaps I should have The Enigma Variations blasting out when it/he arrives? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 @dBerriff I really like the Julian Lloyd Webber interpretation from 80’s 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 @dBerriff & once checked all working OK - then ‘Pomp & Circumstance March No. 1’ 😀 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyjt Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 (edited) Desperately fighting the green. I never really like the livery on 7, both in model form or when I used to see the real thing (personal choice and probably in the minority I accept and probably tainted at the time by the renaming). However, there are only so many large logo renumbers/renames I can justify.....look at Lara black roof options or Monarch with blue roof perhaps, now there's at least 1 or 2 more then, even though my future TT120 layout is aimed at the midlands. Oops! You may guess I like the 50 model a lot and maybe lucky but no shaft issues or falling off bits amongst the lot of 'em. Happy camper. Edited September 7 by Rustyjt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 Initial impressions are very positive. Plenty of detail for me without adding any extras and I like the green finish. I am running it on DC initially and it is very quiet and smooth. Now that I understand why the shafts can pop out I believe I can take steps to stop that happening. So a first "big" diesel-electric for the collection and I am pleased. A Class 66 is on pre-order at the old price and that will probably be it for the diesels unless I get an early BR Class 08. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Check out the video Richard has done on class 43. It shows another scenario for ‘shaft ejection’ If one does make a bid for freedom, it’s a good idea to see which cause it is, Drive cups too far apart or catching on the slots in the drive cup. The shaft upgrade is same, just you might also need to tweak the spacings. I mentioned it in passing on my video but wasn’t the issue on the 50 I had in front of me. Richard shows a really easy way to adjust the drive cup on the bogie without needing a bearing puller to move the flywheel and de solder motor etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Well, if you dig about there are bargains. Joined the 50 club…. £110 brand new, incl post and found a as new HM 7000 decoder £25. Nice 😁👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 I wasn't going to get a 50, now I have Eddie Elgar, having tested (played with) it for half an hour, I love it. The detail, colour, lights, sounds, weight. Had to rename the light functions, but what a lovely little loco. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 Been playing with Eddie again today, and is it just mine, but are the springs in the couplings too strong, so as the loco goes around corners it derails the lead wagon because it's too light. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilmson Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 I tried out the locomotives in my display cases. Yes, the coupling is strong, but not stronger than the other locomotive couplings from Hornby, Arnold, MTB, Tillig, Roco and Piko. It's well within the average range. What radii are we talking about? Is it perhaps an S-curve? In that case, we have more of a general problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 @david_watts1 I seem to recall it's been mentioned before, as I remember replying that the Dapol N gauge 50 has similar problems from what I've read 🙂 My 50's only been up and down a metre of track so far so I've no experience either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 31 minutes ago, david_watts1 said: Been playing with Eddie again today, and is it just mine, but are the springs in the couplings too strong, so as the loco goes around corners it derails the lead wagon because it's too light. You need to watch the video I did on updating the cardan shafts, Inalso show you how to ease them off, if the cab floor is to tightly screwed down it stops the KK system moving freely, usually on does it on one end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 What radii are we talking about? Is it perhaps an S-curve? Standard rad 3 curve on a test oval. I thought swapping out the lead Peco wagon for a Hornby one might cure the problem, it didn't. None of the 3 new Duchesses pull the lead wagon off of the rails. I am currently using Close Hunt couplings, I wonder if the longer Imtermediate ones might help since they would have more leverage on the mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 @RallymattYes, I remember now, back off the cab floor screws by half a turn. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilmson Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 Just now, david_watts1 said: What radii are we talking about? Is it perhaps an S-curve? Standard rad 3 curve on a test oval. I thought swapping out the lead Peco wagon for a Hornby one might cure the problem, it didn't. None of the 3 new Duchesses pull the lead wagon off of the rails. I am currently using Close Hunt couplings, I wonder if the longer Imtermediate ones might help since they would have more leverage on the mechanism. Ok, that's not normal, check the locomotive based on Rallymatt's hint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 I did mention it on here soon after they came out as I had to remove the cab ends for my Deltic body and had to screw the mount to the chassis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 Thanks everyone for reminding me of the fix, I shall try it after work....if I remember🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_watts1 Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 Well that was a joy to fix😠. I took out the 4 body screws and lost one to the floor for 10mins. Slackened off the cab screws, no effect. Put longer shanked couplings on, no effect. Tried to stretch a spring to lessen its effect and accidentally dismantled the coupling mechanism. Then the spring pinged off. I stretched it and then it wouldn't go back on the pegs. In the end I just reassembled the coupling without the spring. The other coupling I managed to stretch the spring slightly without too big an issue. Testing each step with a small wagon train. You can get quite fed up waiting for the bluetooth to connect. So, I was right, the springs are too strong for the job and derail the wagons. A slackened spring and no spring work fine. How to kiss 2 hours of your life goodbye😣. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artyp Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 On 10/09/2024 at 16:58, david_watts1 said: Been playing with Eddie again today, and is it just mine, but are the springs in the couplings too strong, so as the loco goes around corners it derails the lead wagon because it's too light. I've had that happen as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelton Junction Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 I’ve found that they wear in with use after having used a non sensitive wagon in between the loco and first culprit wagon. I’m using hunt magnetic couplings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBerriff Posted September 11 Author Share Posted September 11 As I will only use Sir Edward with carriages I have not seen any problems in my few minutes of run time. Is that the general experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelton Junction Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 (edited) That appears to be the case. The lightness of a vent van or 7 plank truck is the reason for skew whiffing off on the tighter corners. I put a 50’ brake in there to stop it. So, Sir Ed with coaches shouldn’t give you a problem Edited September 12 by Skelton Junction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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