atom3624 Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 I had a bit of fun with my latest purchase - a USED Hornby Class 56 Super Detail model - opening doors, working fans, directional lights. It was sold as 'noisy' in one bogie, and lights only working in one direction. A little research prior to purchase, decision, and receipt, found that there's a common problem with the body, housing the lights has 3 contact 'fingers' at each end, which are known to give problems. I carefully and easily removed the body without problem, confirmed all wires appeared to be in place, and all fingers in good order - none broken.I checked the running, and it's as smooth as any locomotive I have - EXTREMELY smooth!!It's also quiet, so unless there's another problem, I don't think that requires any attention. I cleaned the fingers, contact areas and gently bent the contacts a bit more - lights were working again in both directions!!This was with the body 'loosely placed'. Once screwed down, I lost one end again!A little more 'tinkering' with the contacts and the fingers, and all appears fine!!All that's 'wrong' is a bit of chafing on the roof, just where the exhausts are, which has rubbed some maroon paint off, revealing black - which actually looks great, but was through movement against the packaging I believe over time - and I've lost a couple of sander pipes - that's it!! All doors open / close perfectly - no problems there either. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 21C123 Blackmoor Vale - has been 'on shed' for nearly 2 months waiting for RT Models' draincocks.Finally came, so I braved 10' in the garage to mix a little Araldite, drill the cylinders and glue into position. Needed to refit the steps and gave a first coat.Looks like a little more bending is required to get the steps lined up properly. Finally looks like a loco, and what a nice one as well!!Not in a hurry to finish too quickly - too cold in the garage!!(Great for storing the drinks, so not THAT cold, still above zero anyway!!) /media/tinymce_upload/9e891f04cf19b506bda7fccc3cd09df2.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/5075e69eec5a29f434db0b0320833128.jpg Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 AlClass 56 - I removed the springy things and hardwired coiled leads across the contacts at each end long enough to allow the body to lift off. I also propped the doors open at the speaker end (opposite end to the fans) to let the noise out. Lovely heavy loco that runs extremely well. The only real problem I have had is one of the long shouldered body attach screws sheared off which was a fiddle to extract. Now I go very easy when tightening them up.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWR-Gordon-4 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 @atom3624 I like the Hornby RailRoad Class 9F's. They are well detailed, but not too much that I am afraid of holding it and damging it. I have one, in the form of Murdoch. I like all of the detailing of him and there's more detail on the model than there is on him from the TV series, so that's a plus in my eyes! 😉 😀 Also, I don't mind the under-cab pipework. GNR-Gordon-4 (HF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hi Rob, re. the 56, I was toying with just that idea.I find when I 'test' it, and if it doesn't work, I treat it like a 40-year-old TV - give it a tap, and it's fine - obviously not ideal so was playing with precisely the same thing - could even create / buy fine coiled wire to permit a bit more movement. I'll live with for now, but it is 'option 1' as they say!! GNR-G-4 - Murdoch sells for a small fortune, so you must have it in some form of force field - keep the cats away, whatever!!I've a Hornby Evening Star, but would prefer a B one to be honest - just get the green and finish that bit better, before we go into detail, but when we realise just how old the Hornby 9F is, with little change since - apart from going from (the original - with the Black 5 and Oliver Cromwell) Silver Seal tender drive to loco drive - with separate handrails - don't think there's much else which has changed!!Excellent effort for way back when ... Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I have a Bachmann 9F and two Hornby versions. In my view, without doubt, the Hornby is a far better runner and very difficult to tell from the Bachmann version. Quickest way is to look at the draw bar. I also have two Crosti's, they are fantastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWR-Gordon-4 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I don't have any cats. Have a dog, the layout is too high up for her to reach it. Murdoch is one of my favourite locomotives I have, so I don't many people touch him. There's no damage on him and I want to keeo him this way, even though I probably will never sell him, despite the money I could get for him. GNR-Gordon-4 (HF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Atom where did you get the cylinder drain cocks from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Here: http://www.rtmodels.co.uk/rt_models_024.htm TBH, I thought they'd forgotten my order - it took a wee while - the steps are from them as well. I think it makes a very good loco look just that much better ... Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Thanks Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 That's the best thing - if you really believe an item is a 'keeper', then keep it - heart and passion should rule what some may call common sense - talking about Murdoch here!! Apologies WTD - I have another post with photos and Blackmoor Vale. Draincocks for the 9F are from an accessory bag I got for a Hornby 4MT 4-6-0 - looked close enough.I could have worked at getting the angle right - as can be seen on the Bachmann ones, but it's a good start. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Sorry to be a pain, which ones did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Not a problem.I did have some from another 'Standard' loco, but I did purchase these:X10302 Hornby Spare Accessory Bag for Class 75000 Loco I'm guessing I took them from this accessory pack.I sprayed over in Satin Black and wasn't bothered if a bit of 'brass' showed through ... it's probably how they would be in 1:1 - not uniform 'fully weathered' or 'fully as new' ... Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I did a similar thing with another loco as I had some spares. I’ve run out now. I’ll have a look to see what I can find. 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 The front steps and draincocks are from RT Models.The steps need a little bit of work - fine-tuning the alignment and basically completing the paint job!Could be that bothered at the moment - garage is too cold!! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 Had to hunt this thread down - 12th page it was on!! Green Arrow 4771 is a beautiful model, but one of those with the chimneys that stop, well, nearly immediately! I like to see a nice hole, so ... I got a nice guide hole drill, perfectly as possible centred ... then started opening out, when ... it came off!! It was simply a peg popped into a hole on top of the body, and I'd removed the peg - oops! Never mind. It permitted me to open out from underneath, and open out the hole on the body properly. Now all glued back into position and looking no different to before, except there's a hole where I wanted it now, not a 4mm recess. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1707820979 Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Building an extra layout and have just finished the Radius 2 horseshoe track. Quite long and a 0-6-0 industrial loco takes 1min. 5 secs to traverse it at maximum (slow) speed. Next is the inner 1st. Radius track. This is my first experience with 1st Radius and I am wondering if it is a complete waste of time. Other than adding to the view. Space considerations won't let me install a 3rd. Radius track. Quite enjoying the construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek 19B Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 The Metcalfe PO241 stone viaduct is nearing completion and looking impressive, I like to do these card kits very relaxing.Back in November I bought a Merchant navy R2169 with just one piece lose , Ha more like one piece fixed.So does it run No , short circuits everything , removed the tender and loco makes a noise but no movement , removed the body, the gears were locked solid with old grease and half a Pint of oil , what a mess.Cleaned and dried the gears tightened every thing up , i now have a good strong runner after sorting the metal strip connections to the tender.Now to smarten up the body work . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Decided to make myself a proper test board rather than have spaghetti junction and loose kit all over the kitchen table.Still spaghetti junction but more under control on a board. The rows of pluggable choc blocks mean I easily can swap over from point motors to lights as required.ESU kit is kept handy as well. /media/tinymce_upload/6fc1d9390ea1d718e80e5279e1a03a4f.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 While i was trying to sort my computer out I thought I’d have a look at this Playcraft D6100 I got in a box of junk ages ago. No use to me as all my other Playcraft stock has the Peco type couplings. This is a very early version from the beginning of the 60s although I don’t think the body is original. It is a metallic blue and the only ones made early on were green, just like BR as Rail Blue didn’t exist then. How do I know the chassis is early? It has brass gears and drive to all axles As well as the Tri-ang type Lanal couplings. Later versions had plastic gears and then later only drive to one bogie. Stil, there didn’t seem much wrong with it so decided to give it 5 mins. originally it didn’t work but power applied to the motor made it run, the usual problem with these locos is oxidation or dirt on the pick-ups or wheels. They have a system where the wheels have stub axles and brass rods rub on these, held down by brass springs on top of the bogies and brass contacts rub on these from the main chassis to transfer power. Sounds complicated but it isn’t. To access the bits you need to remove a nut from the top of the bogie pivot, usually held in place with wahat appears to be blue nail varnish. The bogie then drops out and all the brass contacts can be cleaned. The nut, washer below it and the brass rods are very easy to lose, I always work on a tray. Well, 5 mins has it running as new, no idea what i will do with it now!/media/tinymce_upload/9d49b365f84664f783c6e9d07d44309f.jpgThe chassis showing the large motor fitted to these early locos./media/tinymce_upload/9ee56eedc311c842011850cb896bd89e.jpgAnd the bogies showing the cleaNed stub axles and wheels on the pick-up bogie. /media/tinymce_upload/e897d1a3e34c63eb84e125800e5a10b1.jpgBrass springs on top of the bogie/media/tinymce_upload/999d6f706875f61983670fa1ead251e5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Thought I would take advantage of the recently produced Class 08 TTS decoder and fit into an LMS Railroad version bought in a sale 3 yrs ago for £25 . Needed an 8 pin socket firstly........./media/tinymce_upload/642502d27dcdea1d1ec7a8bb05de3487.JPGDecoder installed and tested with supplied speaker but not happy with sound reproduction so fitted a Zimo '3D' speaker instead. What a difference, now sounds like a 'Gronk'........../media/tinymce_upload/8de0c3d4bd667f479100ca9a5c3b4dba.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Installing TTS into Class 31 Minotaur...I removed the fan assy, popped the blades off and glued them to the body roof. Note the body fits the other way round - fan over speakers.The speakers are 4 ohm ESU items wired in series for 8 ohms To suit the TTS decoder. /media/tinymce_upload/0c1add1a0e39550ba5b5a903d43697e4.JPG Next job is to install some lights in a TTS factory fitted Class 31 using an Express Models kit I had laying around...Getting the transparencies out to feed the leds underneath was a struggle, but even worse putting them back. I will fit a four pin plug and socket from body to chassis for ease of maintenance. /media/tinymce_upload/e7868d1247ade1b2aeecbc4585f44758.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 I remember the old Joeuf Playcraft Class 22 - my brother had one and before I started collecting, I was interested, temporarily in those French Pacifics they made - before I decided they looked 'too untidy', preferring the classic British pre-/post-grouping steam locomotives!! That beast of a motor explains the apparent flywheel effect it always seemed to have - went very nicely indeed!! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 Not quite on the bench but the frist part of the layout is finished 12' ×12' welled layout. Made up of 8 2'×4' tables all round. And a circuit of SMP track layed and powered. on the beach are 70 loco's going though a full service after 3-4 years stored. 1st 10 running! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share Posted June 7, 2019 Just finished assembling Clevedon Court. I bought three of these models when it first came out and did somevery rough conversionon two of them, one to a hall, another to a grange while the third was to a star but never finished using a Hall chassis. Having restored most of them by buying bodies etc off ebay I was left with a rolling chassis fitted with Romford 24mm wheels (fromn the Hall conversion) and an unmodified tender. Last week I sources a near mint Clevedon court body off ebay so set towards the restoration. Initially I had some trouble sourcing wheels until I discovered that I could use the outer pair of drivers from an old Hornby Duchess as well as the front pony truck. This left just the cylinders with straight lining (which I had mistakenly bought for an earlier St Catherine restoration) and the centre diriving wheels. A quick comparrison with a Hornby king led me to realise that these were common to both King and Saint models so another set was bought. The only thing I had to do with them was to remove and dicard the brass bearings. After testing and some trouble getting the quartering right all I need to do is send off for some Humbrol gloss back to touch up some paint damage on the driving wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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